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About robotr0n

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  1. I spent a lot of time reading about the lights these past few days. Am gonna go for the 18XR just to have a little more power. Thanks for all your help!
  2. Sure, Depth up to 40m at the moment, but I'm planning on going into Tek diving later this year, so will probably go up to ~60m soon. I spend most of the time in the 20-30m range. 90% blue water. Love to dive in >20m viz whenever possible.
  3. Hey everyone, I'm currently in the process of buying my first Keldan light. I want this to last a very long time, so I'd like to buy the right one now, instead of upgrading later. The plan is to buy one now, then add a second one later this year. Truth be told, the 24XR is kind of out of my price range. So I'm looking at the following 3 options right now: 18XR 30k lm CRI82 8X 15k km CRI95 8X 18k lm CRI 85 The 18XR would definitely push my budget limits quite a bit, but would probably still be doable. Unless someone convinces me that I absolutely need 30k lumens, I'd probably go for one of the 8X lights. Now the question is: What's more important? Better color rendering or more brightness? I personally think the 8X 18k is the one that I need. Almost all of my footage is wide angle stuff, a lot of wrecks, too. So I think power is paramount. The 18XR offers support for a remote. How important is this feature? The 8X lights seem to omit that support. Thanks for your help -robotr0n
  4. Hey everybody, I've currently got a PowerShot G1X mark III with the Canon housing. All I'd need would be the addition of 4K video to the G1X mark III and I'd have my perfect underwater camera. Unfortunately, it seems unlikely that Canon will ever update the G1X at this point. P&S cameras are becoming a rarer sight outside of the underwater photo community. So I've been thinking about going down the Sony route. Almost all of my underwater footage is wide angle stuff, so I don't think the new lens on the RX100 VI and VII would help. That's why I've been looking into getting the RX100 V. I really enjoy the benefits of the APS-C sensor in the G1X mark III. During post processing I frequently push my images quite a bit. So I'm concerned that that's going to be an issue with the RX100 V's smaller sensor. Has anybody used the two cameras and can provide some insights into how they compare? -robotr0n
  5. Just out of curiosity: What's the piece of rope (looks like it's about 5 inches long) connecting the two ball mounts for?
  6. Awesome, thanks for your help! Looks like I'll be buying one of those coiled thingies pretty soon then
  7. Hey y'all, So I usually use a loop of 2.5mm bungee cord that I've attached to a clip using a cow hitch on one side, then attach it to the Nikonos SB-105 tray on the other side. I then clip the clip to one of my D-rings once I'm in the water. A few weeks ago I went diving with a friend who's a tec diver and I left my bungee cord loop home. So he gave me some of his, which was 10mm. Now that I've used his, I don't trust mine anymore to keep my rig attached. How to y'all attach your camera gear? What strength of bungee cord do y'all use? I feel like 10mm is overkill. Happy Easter! -robotr0n
  8. I have not seen this behavior since my camera doesn’t preflash... Just read about it.
  9. Well I can tell you from experience that it doesn’t. Actually, when I bought the SB-105 I read that it won’t work with preflash cameras since it dumps the flash during the preflash and is then unable to flash during the actual exposure since it’s still recycling. It works just fine with my G1X. I also remember reading that there are quite a few cameras that won’t preflash.
  10. Awesome, thanks! For some reason I can't like your posts. Maybe because you're a mod?
  11. Awesome, thanks for all the replies! I'll think about going down the fiber optical route. I'm doing mostly wide angle stuff and the strobes I've been looking into are the Seacam 150D/160D or if I end up triggering them optically, the Sea&Sea YS-D2. I just talked to a Sea&Sea representative at Boot (the trade fair) and was told that the YS-D3 is coming later this year. So I might wait for the new one instead. The only issue I see here with the YS-D2 is that the beam angle for the D2 is only 80° without a diffusor while the 150D does 130°. For wide angle that's a huge difference! Although it looks like the Inon Z330 does 110° which isn't bad. Anybody got any experience with Inon? I've gotta admit this is the first time I've ever heard of them and don't know anybody personally who uses Inon strobes.
  12. The Nikonos is actually triggered wirelessly, meaning the Powershot's internal flash is used to trigger the Nikonos. The SB-105 has a sensor built in that detects the presence of flash and then fires the SB-105 as long as the Powershot's internal flash is on. Hence, the only TTL that's used here is the Powershot's. The problem I've got is that the Powershot senses a lot of light present as soon as the SB-105 fires and then immediately shuts down the internal flash, leading to underexposed photos. I'm not sure there's a way to deal with this other than setting the PowerShot's internal flash to manual and then using the SB-105 on full manual, too. And that's what I'm currently doing. EDIT: The preflash as described in your post above isn't used by all digital cameras. My G1X doesn't do that for example. AFAIK the G1X has a separate TTL circuit built in which senses the amount of light received.
  13. Thank you so much! This is exactly what I was looking for and is very helpful! Problem solved
  14. Thanks. So, just to confirm: if I want to use sync cords with TTL I'll have to use an S6 flash or is this possible with a Nikonos connector flash, too?
  15. I was talking to a Seacam representative the other day and was told that their strobes go up to 1/8000 sync speed, which isn't achievable using fiber optics. Also, having used fiber optics for data transmission, I know how easy it is to break fiber optics and would like to avoid that if at all possible. Your response seems to indicate that running TTL on sync cords is impossible with something like a YS-D2. Is that the case?
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