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robotr0n

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About robotr0n

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  1. I have not seen this behavior since my camera doesn’t preflash... Just read about it.
  2. Well I can tell you from experience that it doesn’t. Actually, when I bought the SB-105 I read that it won’t work with preflash cameras since it dumps the flash during the preflash and is then unable to flash during the actual exposure since it’s still recycling. It works just fine with my G1X. I also remember reading that there are quite a few cameras that won’t preflash.
  3. Awesome, thanks! For some reason I can't like your posts. Maybe because you're a mod?
  4. Awesome, thanks for all the replies! I'll think about going down the fiber optical route. I'm doing mostly wide angle stuff and the strobes I've been looking into are the Seacam 150D/160D or if I end up triggering them optically, the Sea&Sea YS-D2. I just talked to a Sea&Sea representative at Boot (the trade fair) and was told that the YS-D3 is coming later this year. So I might wait for the new one instead. The only issue I see here with the YS-D2 is that the beam angle for the D2 is only 80° without a diffusor while the 150D does 130°. For wide angle that's a huge difference! Although it looks like the Inon Z330 does 110° which isn't bad. Anybody got any experience with Inon? I've gotta admit this is the first time I've ever heard of them and don't know anybody personally who uses Inon strobes.
  5. The Nikonos is actually triggered wirelessly, meaning the Powershot's internal flash is used to trigger the Nikonos. The SB-105 has a sensor built in that detects the presence of flash and then fires the SB-105 as long as the Powershot's internal flash is on. Hence, the only TTL that's used here is the Powershot's. The problem I've got is that the Powershot senses a lot of light present as soon as the SB-105 fires and then immediately shuts down the internal flash, leading to underexposed photos. I'm not sure there's a way to deal with this other than setting the PowerShot's internal flash to manual and then using the SB-105 on full manual, too. And that's what I'm currently doing. EDIT: The preflash as described in your post above isn't used by all digital cameras. My G1X doesn't do that for example. AFAIK the G1X has a separate TTL circuit built in which senses the amount of light received.
  6. Thank you so much! This is exactly what I was looking for and is very helpful! Problem solved
  7. Thanks. So, just to confirm: if I want to use sync cords with TTL I'll have to use an S6 flash or is this possible with a Nikonos connector flash, too?
  8. I was talking to a Seacam representative the other day and was told that their strobes go up to 1/8000 sync speed, which isn't achievable using fiber optics. Also, having used fiber optics for data transmission, I know how easy it is to break fiber optics and would like to avoid that if at all possible. Your response seems to indicate that running TTL on sync cords is impossible with something like a YS-D2. Is that the case?
  9. I'm new here, so I want to give you all some background info first: I'm currently shooting on a Powershot G1 X Mark III with the Canon housing and a Nikonos SB-105 set to slave below the surface. Above the surface I've got a 5D mark IV. The Powershot is fun, but it ain't enough. Plus I can't get TTL to work properly with the Nikonos flash. So I'm planning on taking the 5D underwater at some point this year. Having read through a whole bunch of stuff online, here's the conclusion I've come to, so far: I want a Nauticam housing for the 5D and a pair of TTL flashes triggered through a sync cord. Now here's the part that I just can't wrap my head around: the Nauticam housing comes with a choice of Nikonos, Ikelite or S6 bulkheads. I found a very old post stating that Canon's e-TTL requires 6 contacts, and as such only strobes connected through an S6 connector would work. Is that true? If so, I believe the only viable option for me would be Seacam's flashes. Unfortunately, at $2.5k a pop they're not exactly cheap. I'd prefer to get something like a Sea&Sea YS-D2 if I can get them to work in TTL with the Nauticam housing through a sync cord. I find that there's very little information available on this topic. Can anybody help me out here? Thank you! -robotr0n
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