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Posts posted by Undertow

  1. On 8/28/2019 at 6:03 PM, adamhanlon said:

    It should all migrate over the next few days....

    I'm not sure how you had 2 names...but you are correct, both forms of the forum software (old and new) only "allow" one.

    All the best


    Hi Adam

    Checking if anything can be done about my account status. Nothing has migrated unfortunately. Cheers,


  2. Usually use non-fisheye for people photos unless you want to make weird exaggerated perspectives. But would you even expect much UW action from 6 year olds? Will they dive down and open their eyes UW? Not sure I'd consider it worthwhile if it takes much effort. Then again, above water photos from in the water could be fun. I'd go with the 10-22 either way, shooting at 22mm for above water.

  3. Uncorrected 100% - clearly the edges are sharper and there's more image area. Personally I don't 'see' any barrel distortion. I only see edge distortion in the 'corrected' versions.

    Really glad you can turn off the M4/3 profiles in Photolab. Many situations (UW especially) absolutely do not call for these 'corrections' which mostly serve to damage image quality (in this case by stretching the corners for no reason).

    My m4/3 is just a secondary camera, I shoot Nikon UW, but would be very frustrated if my wide shots were forcefully stretched as LR does for m4/3.

    A lens' distortion is its natural state of being. There are cases where its worth applying profiles to straighten lines but at the expense of image quality. More often I find it makes images look worse, but that's a personal preference I suppose. The term 'corrections' I think is a misnomer.



  4. On 10/23/2019 at 7:26 AM, adamhanlon said:

    Not simply!

    I don't know of an opto-electrical convertor that will work on strobes with a Nikonos fitting. Ikelite do one for their DS strobes, but the strobe-side fitting is their proprietary plug. 

    There are lots that work on the camera output, but these will not help. 

    I know Ikelite used to sell various Ikelite-to-Nikonos sync cables. Worth a check.

  5. Using the longer arm at the strobe usually allows the strobe to stow in a better position when everything is folded up (transport, getting in/out of water etc). The strobes can 'sit' level on the the same surface as the housing with the arms folded inward close to the housing. In your configuration, the arms will have to be folded outward, protruding from the housing, for the strobe to sit on the same surface as the housing. Hope that makes sense.

    Not sure how different it is when actually shooting UW, I've not experimented, but I feel having the pivot point between the arms closer to the camera works well.

  6. 15 minutes ago, TPott said:

    I wanted to updated everyone on my situation.  I stopped into the dive shop on Friday.  They set me up with a dive belt and two 3 lb weights.  I went out to a local reservoir on Saturday and tried them out.  I was still buoyant enough to float on the surface but it brought me down a few inches lower into the water.  I tried a duck dive and used my fins to get me down.  When I relaxed, I instantly shot back up to the surface without any effort.  Do you think I might need a bit more weight or would what I have be about right?  I definitely still felt comfortable and safe with the weight belt attached.

    Ya 6lbs is nowhere near enough for freediving with a 7mm suit. I'd suggest bringing extra weights and experimenting when you're in the water. As I explained in my post above, you should still be positively buoyant when you're down, but minimally so you can grab a rock and stay in place. Just be careful to not overweight yourself. I hope you're doing all this with a buddy.



  7. Yes you need some weight. You'll have to experiment.


    You still don't want to make yourself neutral in 2ft of water, that would be over-weighting yourself. It would also then require some physical effort to ascend - something that often churns up silt, ruins images and is just dangerous.


    Therefore even if close to neutral you need a way to stay down, either by continuing to kick down or holding on to a rock. A dive stick/pointer can help too. Of course never touch anything live.


    But then you can only shoot 1 handed so you need a well balanced rig.



    • Like 1

  8. On 8/28/2019 at 6:03 PM, adamhanlon said:

    It should all migrate over the next few days....

    I'm not sure how you had 2 names...but you are correct, both forms of the forum software (old and new) only "allow" one.

    All the best


    Hi Adam,


    Thanks I hope it can get back to normal, though I still see myself categorized as a new account. No idea how the 2 names thing happened but I guess that's where the issue arose I presume. Cheers,



  9. Hi Adam,

    Thanks for the help though this account now says 0 posts, 0 content etc and I've reverted to "Flotsam"..... Though I do see my previous posts listed under 'activity'. My old login no longer works. Would have preferred to keep my account the way it was and just change the name if possible.

    I noticed it at same time that the forum was updated. Maybe to do with the fact that all these years my screen name "Undertow" was different from my login name "burville". Not sure why that was the case but was that way since I joined in 2006.



  10. I've been using a combo of ULCS and old Aquatica clamps for 13 years. I recently purchased a couple new Delta 3 clamps and I must admit they're fantastic. Really impressed by the ability to lock it down and easily release it. Great handle design - I do find the ULCS straight-bar handles get caught on things very easily. I also agree about the limited usability of triple clamps - bought a couple years ago and never use them now, very awkward.

  11. I see many posts about lanyards on lengths of cord - designed so you don't 'lose' the rig, but not to secure the rig. I think the OP is asking about securing it. Any length of line will make a rig flop around if you let go.


    I attach a bolt snap to the base of each handle and sling it like a stage bottle - one on a shoulder D-ring and one on hip D-ring. It is important that the bolt snaps are tied very tight to the handles so they themselves don't flop around, they're rigid. Look up the methods of tying bolt snaps onto bottles/lights etc from tech divers to get an idea of how to tie a very rigid connection.


    Now I've only done this for scuba - its more challenging for free diving. I'd experiment with dual D-ring placement at different points on your belt. Perhaps to secure the camera on one hip or across the lower back. The D-rings should be rigid to form a tight connection and stop the camera from flopping around.


    Placement of the snaps on the housing is important so it sits naturally and doesn't try to rotate itself on the connection. Personally mine works best with the snaps on the bottom of the handles. Experiment.





  12. Yeah, but that last post there is dated April 5th, nearly three months ago. I'm sure I'm not the only one with an open preorder who would appreciate some newer info :)


    Incidentally, I'm going to the Philippines for three weeks of diving in October - having a pair of Retra Pros to take with me would be a nice bonus. Mind you, not having them wouldn't break my trip, as I have a pair of older strobes that I can take with me, but still, it'd be nice to have new toys to play with.

    I think we forget how lucky we are to have Oskar posting on this forum at all - other strobe manufacturers do not.


    I pre-ordered the Retra Pro the first day it was available back in Nov. I'm super excited whenever its ready but also very aware that I agreed to an open-ended delivery.


    I'm sure they'll post updates once they have a better idea. Happy for them to take the time to make sure its a solid product.

  13. Ikelite sells a Nikonos to dual Ikelite cable (both TTL & non-TTL versions on B&H) so I'd see no point in buying other strobes if you own DS160's (except perhaps for switching to smaller strobes with user friendly knobs!).


    There are numerous trays available that could mount a Nikonos and dual strobes (I like the ULCS double tray and find many uses for it both UW & topside).

  14. I'm unsure how these are all attached, I'm not familiar with the Nauticam gear, but you can get threaded step rings 77mm-67mm or 67mm-77mm at B&H or any other large camera store. Just don't buy the cheapest ones as they bind and would be no good for UW use.





    Otherwise if its some sort of friction mount, you may just have to be creative.





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