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Everything posted by Undertow

  1. Indeed, well articulated, but has it been definitively shown somewhere? Personally I just don't see it both topside and underwater. All I've read are allusions to the idea on forums - primarily before the D800 came out in 2012. I've not seen much mention of it since (thought it was debunked) until here and now with the D850 UW. Of course I've always been a firm advocate for using the best optics possible and when asked I advise people of the importance of lenses vs cameras (and of shooting vs fussing about gear). I can somewhat see the idea from a "get-the-most-from-your-high-res-camera" perspective but not that one's image will suffer due to some larger relative discrepancy between the sharp center and unsharp corners. That acceptable optics on a D810 (or even D700) may no longer be such on a D850. I shoot a lot and just haven't seen it. Though I'm not much of a pixel peeper. Agreed. Cheers, Chris
  2. If you loved your Sigma 15mm on the D810 then I firmly believe you'll love it just as much on the D850. I truly don't think its somehow suddenly inferior on the mighty D850. I don't want to repeat the same discussion on your other thread but I feel I must point out - theres a HUGE difference between figuring the best optics, squeezing every sharp pixel from a high res camera, and saying/implying an optical combination that was previously acceptably 'good' is somehow no longer due to more megapixels. Not that anyone's really doing so here - I just want to say don't give up on your Sigma 15mm. Sure the Nikon 8-15mm might be a bit sharper (not seen a comparison) and if you've got the spare cash, go for it. But I wouldn't, say, sacrifice a dive trip to make that upgrade if you already have a setup for the 15mm. Cheers, Chris
  3. Thanks for your thoughts Adam. I was actually referring to both the dome corner sharpness issue and overall imperfect IQ there. To me the dome related corner blur in that image isn't bad at all and wouldn't be distracting even if not in the shadows. If not obvious at screen res, the blur is really only in the lower right quarter of the crop. The left side is at normal image sharpness (which isn't perfect in that image!). Out of curiosity I found another image last night, again low light pre-sunset, where I accidentally shot some images at f/6.3 of turtles over sand/seagrass. The bottom corners were closer to the camera and they're total freaking mush. So it depends. It is all about personal preference. I find the corners in that image very acceptable so in retrospect I would not have pushed the ISO as it would sacrifice dynamic range, upon which that image is very reliant. I absolutely agree about noise though. You're right that AF variations for wide lenses underwater are generally insignificant. I have seen a difference but am also totally happy with my f/4 lens there. It is the only lens I own slower than 2.8 and I occasionally bemoan that, but usually just topside. Chris
  4. Personally I don't see what people say about higher resolution cameras showing 'flaws' to some point of damaging the image, though I keep reading it. I shot with 10-12mp cameras for many years, then jumped to a D800 (topside) and only saw vastly improved technical image quality, namely better resolution and dynamic range. I upgraded my UW housed D700 for a D810 a year and a half ago and again, only seen improvements. The resolution jump to the D850 is less significant and I personally doubt I'd see any worse performance from my 16-35 + 9" dome. 2.8 lenses do have noticably superior autofocus as the AF sensor has a brighter image with which to work. Here's a shot D810, 9" dome, 16-35 @16mm, 1/200 f/8 ISO800. Overall image quality isn't perfect due to low light (30mins before sunset), but to me the corners are totally acceptable (corner crop brightened +1.5 stops for clarity here). Had another image from this series blown up about 2m across and looks fantastic. I don't think the D810's resolution makes the imperfect IQ worse at all. Cheers, Chris
  5. I read a good bit when deciding 16-35 vs 14-24. 17-35 wasn't a consideration (price, less wide). Many people struggled to get acceptable results in corners (challenge of rectilinear superwides) with the 14-24mm. Its much bigger, heavier, can't take filters, no VR and costs nearly twice the price. I believe some housing brands can't fit it too. It is a gorgeous lens though. There are times I wish I had 14mm (or 2.8) but there are MORE times I'm glad to have 35mm underwater. Sharks, dolphins, turtles, squid etc. Topside I've shot some lovely landscapes with a polarizer on the 16-35 (internet will say never use a pol on superwide, but works great in certain situations). Cheers, Chris
  6. 16-35mm for a number of reasons. Need a big dome 8-9"+ for rectilinear superwides.
  7. A big 'nay' to that one, both topside and UW. Not watched the linked video but I stopped using UV filters years ago. Even good quality filters can be detrimental to the image, seen it myself. Also, in many years of topside shooting, haven't yet felt the front of a lens threatened as to require protection. Lens hoods however are a different story. When you drop your camera, as I've done multiple times, it will impact on one corner of the body and on the front of the lens. A hood will save the lens. An L-plate likely helps absorb the camera-end of the impact too.
  8. I've used ND filters on strobes multiple times. Especially if you're balancing with ambient light around dusk, minimum power is still too much on a z240. The minimum power on the z330 will be higher.
  9. I mean you can shoot a photo of the front of the flash, put the flash on minimum power, use a small aperture, and you will easily see if one or both tubes are firing.
  10. You don't need no stinkin' TTL. Never used it UW, never wanted to. I've used mixed strobe brands for a couple years now (Inon, Ikelite) since my 2nd Inon flooded. Its not ideal but works fine as long as I gel the Inon to match the Ikelite. I have them very close using a mild CTO, I think 1/4.
  11. I'd check with Nikons authorized (but independant) repair centers listed on their site. I used one in NYC called Photo Tech and they did a great job. No idea if they would do 'grey' items but worth a phone call to ask.
  12. I use the OWC Thunderbay2 bundled with Softraid. Two enclosures (8 bays), 6x4tb HGST drives (2 spare bays for backup drives), RAID 5, imac 5k. Runs as fast or faster than any SSD (750+MB/s I think it was). So far its been great. Lots of space (10TB+ photo library) lots of speed. But I'm no IT guru.
  13. I'm sure you'll be very happy with the D500, its a fantastic camera. However I'd be hesitant to suggest that it will significantly help you take better photos. The difference between the photos isn't due to the camera but the position of the shark and a bit of post processing. At web size, the image quality of the two look similar. Lenses are more important. Quality cameras require quality lenses to realize their potential. If you're ready to upgrade go for it, I've no idea how old the D3200 is and the D500 is awesome. If its simply an image quality issue, there are plenty of ways to improve without upgrading the camera. Cheers, Chris
  14. 16-35 f/4 hands down. I had to decide bw that and the 14-24 a while ago but saw that the 14-24 really struggled in corners for people and 16-35 was 2/3 the price. Personally I'm happy - I find the 35mm end very useful at times and it takes filters. I use a 9" dome which I think is virtually required for wide rectilinear. I do occasionally crave some wider coverage though. Not a huge fan of the easier-to-use fisheyes. Chris
  15. Just checked this out and both "On (Image Review Excluded)" and "Off" - the default setting - allow me to immediately change aperture/ss after shooting. The only one that doesn't is the plain "On" setting, which reassigns the command dials to scroll through photos during image review. Of course you have to tap the shutter to reactivate the dials once the meter goes into standby, usually 6secs default on Nikons. That setting under timers is called either "Auto Meter-Off Delay" (D700, D800) or "Standby Timer" (D810), all are setting C2. Granted being able to scroll though images with the dials in playback mode (but not during auto image review) would be much easier than the d-pad on the housing so I'm gonna try it out. Though perhaps I'm missing that people already set that for UW to begin with and this new "On (Image Review Excluded)" mode fixed an unintended consequence (that option doesn't exist on D700). Chris
  16. No cables but bought a couple other small things from them. Solid construction. Plain fiber optic cable is very cheap, I'm sure its fine.
  17. Hello, I'm upgrading (D700 -> D810 Aquatica) and will have hybrid sync ports (1 electric, 1 optical). New to optical, been shooting for years with manual electric sync. I don't yet have the D810, but my topside D800 (& D700) won't fire continuously with the pop up flash even when set to manual minimum power. It fires as if the camera's set to 'Single' release. If I repeatedly press the shutter I can fire it around 2fps for a few secs until the flash needs to charge. Close the pop up and the camera fires continuously. Yes I'm set to 'Continuous', not 'Single', release. Pop up flash set to 'Manual' at lowest power. Do not have redeye or rear curtain on. I'm also curious if anyone can lay out the other electric vs optical sync pros/cons. I'm sure its been discussed before but I can't find any good summary. I've read references to a 'nikon pop up flash problem' without detail. I understand pop up flash limitations exist. I thought perhaps a slower continuous release but not to be forced into single release. I don't really care about TTL though may try it out for macro. I have read about some mini led hotshoe optical triggers. Experiences with those? I may just stick with electric release. I like the ability to shoot fast bursts. *FYI I am a topside pro and been shooting UW for years. Please, I don't need a lesson in the basics or my motivations for continuous release questioned. Though perhaps there's a camera setting I am missing here. I've never really used my cameras' built in flash, always external ones. Any advice is much appreciated. Cheers, Chris
  18. I've used 2 different methods 1. Tupperware container in checked luggage. I found one that fit my Aquatica 9.25" dome perfectly. 2. Kata CC-195 bag as carryon. Its a video gear bag but the shape is unique - the bags cross section (height x width) stated as 24x27cm. Perfect for a 23cm dome to sit upright. I can fit my full rig including dome in this bag. The size is questionable as a carry on but i've never had a problem. **Wow looks like Manfrotto bought Kata. Seems its now the Manfrotto CC-195 Cheers, Chris
  19. thanks for the suggestions. It does sound like the aquaflite 'oceanliner' option is similar to the old gold core. I'll look into that. I'm not sure what 'skin in' means and googling only leads to thin dive skins. Granted, I don't think the mention of 'titanium' from other wetsuit brands means that type of smooth reflective quick drying liner material to which i'm referring. I'm pretty sure thats just a marketing gimmick. Tim: Yes this is for winter here in Bermuda, though I'd prefer to avoid the bulk and especially the expense of a tropical dry suit. I do already own a 7mm neoprene dry suit from my days in the Northeast US - slight overkill here though. Thanks for the thought. Any other suggestions on suits (with special liners) that say warm topside would be much appreciated. Cheers, Chris
  20. Hi Guys and Gals, I'm looking for recommendations on a 5mm suit that can be kept on topside for long periods while wet. At times I'm in and out of the water all day. Obviously most normal neoprene gets cold and clammy and is worthless. My first 5mm that accomplished this task was a henderson gold core. The build quality was crap but that liner material was amazing, if a bit stiff. Went through 2 or 3 of those suits. They don't exist anymore. My current 5mm (that just ripped) is a Pinnacle Merino stretchy suit. The merino lining is great - it doesn't stay quite as warm as my old gold core, but is built and fits better. Still it does the job of staying warm topside and is my top contender for a replacement. Can anyone suggest other suits? I'm particularly interested in any linings similar to the old henderson gold core. Cheers, Chris
  21. Im in the water year round and my 2 primary pairs of fins (full foot cressi garas and open heel mares avanti) are over 10 yrs old and just starting to show wear. I often don't even rinse them. Too busy taking care of my camera and bc/reg. Fins are the one thing you don't need to worry about.
  22. not sure exactly what you mean, did you do an update? I have LR4 and you only get a single circle - the area to be removed. If you just click once over a spot, LR will decide what information to use on its own. If you click and hold on the spot, then drag the circle to another part of the image, this is now telling LR what area to use to fix the spot.
  23. There certainly was photo credit, though I can't get the 'caption' feature to work on Safari now (worked on Chrome I think) on the Washington Post page, so I can't see the credit. It is there though and definitely on the AP story.
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