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Found 311 results

  1. Ikelite AF-35 Strobe - a perfect first strobe! I am selling my Ikelite AF-35 strobe. This strobe is in like new condition. It was used for about one year, then sat unused in my closet for a few months after I purchased a new set up. I am finally getting around to posting this as I do some pre-spring cleaning! I tested the strobe out this evening and it works perfectly. The Ikelite AF-35 is a fantastic strobe with any compact camera set up. It uses an optical sensor to read the flash from the housing for firing without any need of fiber optic cable. Auto and Manual adjustments, it's the perfect way to get started improving your UW photo setup! I loved and used this strobe out in California where it worked great. New this costs $420 My Strobe: $300 (includes UPS ground shipping in continental USA and paypal fees. I will ship other places for an additional cost). Includes all parts, Strobe with tray, diffuser, shims for various brand housings, screws and manual. (everything but the box!) In like new condition, very well cared for - you'd almost believe it was never in the water! Never flooded, battery compartment is in pristine condition, o-ring is still in good condition. Included diffuser to create a softer even beam of light, or use without. Strobe face is clean and unscratched.
  2. Hi, I'm a relative newbie, and very much a newbie with a strobe. Here is my setup: Canon G12 Canon WP-DC34 Underwater Housing BigEye WA Wet Lens (http://www.fantasea..../it.A/id.410/.f) One Sea & Sea YS-110a strobe iDas arms and clamps I have read a lot about strobe positioning but I don't seem to be getting it. Attached are some random snaps from a recent trip that illustrate a common issue I'm having. It seems as if the strobe is being reflected by the wide angle adapter and causing hotspots or flares of sorts. It doesn't happen on all the shots, but I experiment a lot with angles and can't consistently remember what position yields what result. I can often crop it out, but not always. And I'd really like to have a better sense of why this is happening and what I can do to prevent it. Thanks!
  3. Hello. My name is Peter. I'm new user here. I would like to sell for 1650 GBP very nice complete set with spare parts and orings. Full Frame CANON 5D MKI shutter count - 18 000 just checked and after cleaning in CANON service in Warsaw. IKELITE HOUSING #6871.05 CANON 17mm-40mm L F4 lens + MARUMI 77mm polarisation filter TAMRON 28-75mm F2.8 XR DI LENS + 4 dioptre glass 3xIKELITE PORTS for CANON 17-40, TAMRON 28-75 and CANON 100mm 1:1 MACRO LENSES DS125 IKELITE STROBE 1xARM FLASH CANON 380EX 1 HARD CASE FOR EVERYTHING EVERYTHING IS IN FULL WORKING CONDITION NEVER FLOODED IF YOU WANT TO BUY WITHOUT LENSES, 380EX FLASH AND CAMERA PLEASE SEND YOUR PRICE PROPOSITION PLENTY OF SPARE ORINGS, MANUALS AND OTHER THINGS. I CAN SEND IT TO WEST EUROPE FROM POLAND WITH UPS, DHL, DPD or other BIG LOGISTIC COMPANY Accept Paypal It is listed on auction. SAMPLE IMAGES ALL IMAGES HERE -> http://paperworkassi.../piotr/allegro/ CLICK EVERY IMAGE TO ENLARGE POSTAGE AROUND 35GBP More detail for request SOMEONE MADE CONVERSION FOR CANON 5D MARK II http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=29640 RESON OF SELLING, I WANT TO BUY SONY NEX-5N UNDERWATER HOUSING
  4. When I go on dive trips, I tend to buy some gear, then sell it afterwards since I don't live anywhere that I can regularly dive / shoot. This works out better than renting, especially if I can find used gear to buy. I have sold here (full 7d Ikelite setup) as well as on ScubaBoard and POTN -- all under Iristyle. In December I took a quick trip to the Caribbean and housed my Lumix DMC-ZS7 pocket cam since I needed something really small and was OK with something a little less serious. I recently returned from a longer trip where I housed an Olympus E-PL3 for a few weeks, so was OK with something a bit bigger but with more functionality. At one point, I used my 7d, with DS-160 strobes. Since I know that I intend to resell afterwards, I try to take great care of the gear -- I'm particular about long rinses in freshwater after every salt exposure, etc. Some of the kit, I'm going to hold on to for next time, but some of the bigger ticket items I must part with for now. I'm getting everything listed now, and will provide pics later. All gear includes original materials, manuals, and is in excellent shape unless otherwise noted. Prices are for PP cash, add 3% if using PP credit. Shipping is included - my choice of USPS priority, USPS first class or FedEx. From Olympus setup - parts purchased in May from Bluewater Photo - used 2 weeks * 10Bar E-PL3-Z housing for Olympus E-PL3 with dome port for 14-42 lens - paid $940 - ask $890 http://www.bluewater...s-e-pl3-housing - Scott has a good video review there Somehow I managed to put a tiny surface scuff, about 3mm in length in the dome port -- probably from trying to get close to a nudibranch -- does not affect IQ. There are a couple of minor rubs on the outside of the dome, that again, do not affect performance. * 10Bar 67mm Adapter for Semi-dome - paid $48, ask $40 Clips onto the front of the dome and allows a 67mm wet lens to be snapped on or off * Bluewater Fiber cable from 10bar housing to Sea&Sea strobe - paid $50, ask $40 Does what it says ;0 From Lumix setup - parts purchased around Dec from Reef Photo, Amazon - used for 1 week * Panasonic DMW-MCTZ10 housing for Lumix TZ8, TZ10 (ZS7) - paid $230 + $95 for adapter - ask $280 Will sell only with the Deeproof M67 MCTZ10 adapter for 67mm wet lenses http://www.divervisi...e9h4aok6i6om0o0 The housing was used (but looked brand new) from Amazon, the adapter was new * Ulcs universal tray with two padded handles paid $90 used, ask $70 Was used when purchased. The tray has a taller handle, and a half-height handle -- worked well for me on both housings * Inon Cap W35 - paid $30, ask $20 This is what you need to get a regular fiber cable to attach to the DMW-MCTZ10 housing - includes the special plastic cap piece that screw locks into the housing, reflector stickers, stickers for dimming the camera strobe, etc Some older items that I didn't sell last time -- and forgot to relist! * Ikelite 100/240V smart charger with international plugs - paid $100, ask $85 http://www.adorama.c...2point0Product1 * Ikelite 4066.5 NiMh spare battery for DS-160, DS-125 - MSRP $165, ask $110 I got it used, but never had a problem * Ikelite 9571.3 - 1" ball for Ikelite release handle extender - paid $25, ask $20 http://www.bhphotovi...Extender_1.html When I sold the 7d setup, I sold off one of these, but not the other -- whoops. I have a couple of Sea&Sea strobes - YS-01 and YS-D1. I could be convinced to sell the YS-01, but only if it's going to go with one of the larger items. * Sea & Sea YS-01 strobe - bought back for Dec trip, ask $400 If I sold this, I would include the ULCS ballhead adapter for Sea&Sea (paid about $25) Pictures to come...
  5. I am selling my Sea & Sea DX1G Camera System, including two YS110 strobes. I took some amazing photos with this system and found it very lightweight and easy to use. Almost as good as a DSLR at a fraction of the cost and weight. The system is in excellent condition (no floods, well protected) and includes the following components: Sea & Sea DX1G digitical compact camera which shoots in RAW and jpeg; 10 megapixel; integrated flash Underwater housing; never flooded and never dropped Two Sea & Sea YS110 strobes (also available separately) Insulated hard carrying case which fits in overhead compartment Wide angle lens; mounts externally for greater flexibility while shooting underwater Lots of arms and connectors (I bought a few separate pieces) Various cables, o-rings, maintenance equipment Extra battery charger All user manuals I paid $3,500 for the complete system. Selling for $800 Will sell each strobe separately for $200 I'm attaching a sample of macro and wide angle shots so you can see how great this system really is. Contact me at sarahwuellner@gmail.com. Cash or paypal only Buyer pays shipping
  6. I have 2) DS161 strobes that I am selling as I will be doing more traveling and will be getting a smaller set of strobes. These are awesome strobes with the color and recycle times. The 500 lumen video lights are nice if your camera system shoots video. Price is firm at $850.00/ea, PayPal and shipping charges are included in cost. They sell for around $1200.00/ea online. Only been used maybe 15 times underwater. I only have 1 charger for both strobes. I would be willing to sell them both together for $1600/set but this price is firm as well. No arms are included. The do have ball mounts though so you would only need to acquire the arms. If I can find the arms I have, I will include them at no additional charge. Also please note, please advise if you need the single TTL cable or the dual. I have both, but will only send the one you need if you don't have another Ikelite strobe then you will have to use the single cable. Adding an additional strobe, I will include the dual cable with the single cable. Diffusers are included with each strobe. Photos to follow in the next few days. Mike
  7. Hi guys, I decided to buy Panasonic GH2 with Nauticam Housing and now I am in process to select the right light for me. First of all - 80% of use of GH2 is for video, I just love to shoot video and make some clips . I like to make wide angle shots and also macro. I came to videography from uw photography, so I also *love* to make some nice photos. I know, it is not possible to make both in 100%, but I just want to get as much as possible from my setup. So the question is: Which video light you would choose, to make great videos and good photos ? First of all, I know, I can not make perfect pictures using video light comparing to strobes (Z240/D2000/S2000). From all, what I read till now, the really great video lights are: - Light and Motion Sola 4000 - FishEye Fix Aquavolt 3500 (thanks to Davide for nice review) - also they got 5000 version - Keldan Luna 8 LA-V High CRI LED Video Light 2012 - quite expensive, very powerful - SeaLife SL980 (I am putting it here only because they state it is video AND photo light) The best would be to find the video light which got option for flash. Any recommendations ? Thanks
  8. Hi all, I have only shoot with point and shoot cameras before. Now I am with Panasonic Lumix GX1 with a YS-D1 strobe. I appreciate if someone can advice (or direct me) to information on flash settings for this system. Regards,
  9. Using the 5D1-3 full frame DSLRs means suffering X-sync speeds of 1/200, which limits shots like sunballs and even action shots. This is because of the TTL circuitry forcing the sync to a max of 1/200. Using a bit of ingenuity (and this guide from Stephen Frink), I was able to push past 1/200 to use 1/250 and higher. In my previous review of the 5D2, I mentioned how using 1/320 would create a black band at the bottom of the image. However, going through my travel drives to clear the junk files a few months back, I noticed I had a few clean 1/320 shots in my various experiments on testing strobes and filters. These images were junked because they were bad. However it showed me how to possibly get 1/320 from my 5D2 and maybe even other cameras. 1/320 f11 ISO200 The left side is the "bottom" of the image so it's hard to see if the shutter affected this pic. The above shot was the first pic I saw with 1/320. I thought it was an EXIF error but then I checked other shots in the series and they were all 1/320. Comparing it with my test shots on the review (below), it was clear that there was something different. 1/320 f7 ISO100 Turns out the different is the angle in which the camera is pointing. In all of the 1/320 shots that were without bands, the camera was in portrait view and facing up to the sun. It seems gravity slows the shutter and mirror flip enough so at 1/320, it managed to avoid the black band of the shutter or mirror. Excited with this discovery, but wanting to verify, I called upon other Canon users. A friend using a 1D4 with manual strobe firing also noticed less of a band when using 1/320 or 1/500 and shooting vertically on his camera. The band is there but less so. He didn't have any upward facing pics to check. I'd wanted to test this in South Africa during the Ocean Safari, but I got busy and whenever I got in the water, it was on action so I never remembered to do so. However, I shoot 1/250 as standard on baitballs with the 5D and that wasn't a problem even pointing down: 1/250 f8 ISO640 However, Mark Van Coller (MJvC) couldn't get his camera to sync @ 1/250 even, without a black band (minor one at the bottom of the image) in his Subal with Sea & Sea 250 and Ikelite strobes. The housings I tested and worked with 1/250 and 1/320 were Aquatica, Seacam and Sea&Sea, with Hartenberger 250 and Z240 strobes. It seems it's possible but I haven't solved the riddle yet other than to shoot vertically and point upwards. Since I'm going to be dry (and housing-less!) until next month, I was hoping to get WP members to go out and experiment and report back! This could possibly work with a bit of experimentation. 1/320 f11 ISO200 Note that there is a line of darkness at the bottom of the image. I'm not sure if it was bad light positioning or the effect of the shutter/mirror 1/320 f11 ISO100 The left side is the "bottom" of the image so it's hard to see if the shutter affected this pic.
  10. I have an old Ikelite 75 Substrobe to giveaway. Condition unknown. Rebuild battery and could work like new. Great for parts. Pay for shipping and it's yours. I will be shipping via UPS Ground from North Carolina. Contact Mike@evolutionunderwater.com.
  11. I'm selling 2 Sea & Sea YS-110a strobes for $475 each or $900 together. I bought them in February 2012 from B&H Photo for $1300. Used them on a couple of dive trips and they work perfectly. Have never had any issues with them of any kind.
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