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1. Flash NIKON SB-N10 = $349 2. Snoot 10Bar aluminium for Sea & Sea YS-D1/D2/D2J = $79 3. Magnetic light modifiers set = $59 Condition : used (not too much because mostly I use my Retra Pro or INON S-2000 or Backscatter mini Flash) You can buy items 1, 2 and 3 together or separately. The price is fixed and does not change Strobe NIKON SB-N10 is almost the same as models Sea and Sea YS-D1 or YS-D2 with some improvements. I modified this flash with 4 magnetic accessory holders. details >> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1052079-REG/nikon_3773_sb_n10_underwater_speedlight.html SHIPPING, CONTACTS, PAYMENT Shipping from the Philippines (Dumaguete, Negros Oriental) Buyer pays for shipping : FedEx, DHL, LBC, PhilPost of your choice Phone call +639053487234; Whatsapp +79031313355 Payment by PayPal http://paypal.me/uwart or bank transfer … follow me on social media … https://www.instagram.com/uw.art/ https://www.facebook.com/savin.andrey https://www.behance.net/savinandrey https://ru.linkedin.com/in/savinandrey ALL MY STUFF FOR SALE >> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0sG6XBubsaclO

Hermit Crab Member 0 4 posts Gender:Female Location:United States Interests:Photography, SCUBA Diving, Travel Report post Used - 2 Sea & Sea YS-D2 Strobes for Sale For more information. Contact Carolyn at ctdavismd@gmail.com or call 1-913-634-962 Free Ground shipping in the USA For Pictures and more information. https://www.housingcamera.com/two-sea-and-sea-ys-d2-strobes.html

Hi! I've been shooting with a Sea&Sea YS-D2 off and on for the past 5 years. I only shoot when I'm in Bali (where we have a house), so the pattern is a few months of intense use followed by many months of no underwater photography at all. In July and August of 2021 (so a year ago), I started having slight issues with the strobe turning on. I have never fully flooded the strobe, although I once started to head underwater when I realized that the battery compartment O-ring was not properly seated; on that occasion I headed straight back to the surface and opened it up on dry land; there were about three droplets of sea water inside, which I dried out. Anyway, when the strobe started giving me issues last year, I found that if I bent the springy contacts on the inside of the battery cover back, and then pushed really hard on the cover, the strobe would turn on, and I would be able to use it as usual. The most time I ever spent on this process before a dive was about 2 minutes. Once the strobe absolutely would not turn on after changing batteries between dives, but I left it in the on position and suddenly, after 3 minutes or so, it magically turned on. This was happening in the week or two before I left Bali, and I didn't really have a chance to get it seen to before I left Bali. I returned here a month ago and this time the strobe absolutely will not turn on, no matter what sort of ju-ju I try. The tricks that seemed to work last time have no effect, and leaving it on for an hour produces no signs of life. I guess I thought (hoped?) last year that it was a purely mechanical issue with the batteries making contact. I scraped surface corrosion off the bottom contacts in the battery compartment, bent the upper contacts in the cover and so (I thought) dealt with the problem. In retrospect, though, that one time that it didn't turn on at all and then came to life after a few minutes should have been a warning. I suspect that there is a loose contact or broken wire inside the strobe itself (ie, not in the battery compartment). So my question is whether anyone has any words of wisdom or experience with this sort of issue. Is it a known issue? Is there anything that I can do myself? Is there anything that a dive shop (or a camera shop) could do to revive it? Is it worth trying to fix, or should I grit my teeth, break open the piggy bank and start shopping for a new strobe? Should I just be happy that I got 5 years (and many, many thousands of photos) from the strobe? Or should I be annoyed at it for dying before its time?

Due to a very recent upgrade the items below are no required. Sea & Sea YS-D2J with Neoprene Protector – Used no more than 10 times/5 months old VVGC £395.00 Sea & Sea YS-D2 with Neoprene Protector – VVGC £350.00 Both are in perfect working, with caps, no floods or leaks. 2 x Sea & Sea 5 Pin Sync Cord with caps Used VGC £45.00 each 1 x Sea & Sea 5 Pin Sync Cord with caps New £65.00 each 1 x 10 Bar Strobe Snoot with aiming laser (YS-D1/D2 Fit) – never used £160.00 https://www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/10Bar-Strobe-Snoots-Underwater-Snoot-Review 2 x Wide Angle Diffusers for Sea & Sea YS-D2J /D2 (not a matching pair) very similar to the link below £25.00 each https://www.uwcamerastore.com/dome-diffuser-pro-for-hartenberger-250hs Prices include UK Shipping.

Inon Z240 Type 4 $350 Retra LSD base for Inon Z240 $50 Sea & Sea YSD2 $350 Sony 28mm F/2 + Nauticam N100 Flat Port 32 (37127) $650 H2O Carbon Fiber Float Arms 13" x2 $40 Buyer pays Paypal fees 3% + shipping (from San Francisco)

I dive infrequently because I am landlocked, but every time I do get wet I try to improve my UW photo skills. My current rig is an Olympus E-M10 MKII in a Nauticam housing with one Sea & Sea YS-D1 and one YS-D2 that was purchased later. I have tried S-TTL in the past with the YS-D1 with mixed (more bad than good) results. Eventually I settled on firing the strobes in manual. This is more reliable, but I still miss some shots if I change the distance to my subject and don't properly compensate. A few years ago I added a 2nd strobe, a Sea & Sea YS-D2. Probably a stupid move when I wasn't completely happy with the YS-D1, but I was at least comfortable with the controls and the performance when it worked. When I purchased I was thinking of manual operation, and in that regard the YS-D1/2 strobes work well. Recently I've been doing some experiments on dry land to see if I would have better luck using TTL and the YS-D2's "Custom" mode. I'll cut to the chase and say no, I didn't. After setting the strobe to custom mode B, the one that it supposed to work with my camera, I tried some shots using both TTL modes and the Fill flash mode on my camera. Taking the exact same photo, not moving a thing, and waiting for the strobe ready signal, I got shots that were basically black, completely blown out, and well exposed. I don't understand how the system can be so unreliable. Consistently low or high would be easy to compensate for, all over the map just doesn't work. It's not the camera as the TTL system of the camera alone is fine. Even with the modest built-in flash, I get virtually the same exposure across the aperture range although it does drop off at f20 where the flash lacks the oomph for such a small aperture. My experiments were with just the YS-D2. Given the similar unreliable operation of the YS-D1 on S-TTL, I would hardly ever get them both to work correctly at the same time. I can't afford to change strobes our housing at this time so I have to live with what I have. Am I wasting my time messing with TTL for these strobes and my Olympus? Is there something that I'm missing? If someone has figured out the secret to make Olympus and Sea & Sea play nice together I sure would like to hear how you did it. Thanks

For sale are my two YS-D2 strobes, lightly used both fire great I just switched to Retra's One for $375 both for $700

I have 1 YS-D2 strobe for sale. It has few minor scratches from normal use. I am the first owner and have always kept my stuff well protected and maintained. I just received it back from Backscatter for a through examination and they found it to be in perfect working condition. I no longer need it. I also have a Sea and Sea Dual and Single Sync Cord for sale. I posted it in a different post. Original price: $600 Selling mine for: $360 Shipping from Hawaii.

Good afternoon. I am seeking some assistance. I just received in my YS-D3's (2 of them) and have them with a Nauticam NA-5DMKIV housing and has the UW Technics flash converter. The strobes will be connected through fiber optic cables. Here is my issue. I cannot get the strobes to fire. The camera is set to trigger a flash when a photo is taken. I can see the red led's of the flash converter send out the pulses. I can see the pulses output at the end of the fiberoptic cable. The led's are pulsing in red. I can trick my strobes into triggering with a flashlight but cannot get them to trigger when they are through the fiber optic. I have tried all three settings on the strobes with no luck. I am hoping it is something simple I am doing wrong as I would like to use the setup this weekend on a dive trip to Catalina. Thank you in advance.

Hello everyone, I'm actually in Paris, France and I'm selling all my uw camera gear. x1 Nauticam AR II housing with Nauticam flat port for Sony 28mm (US$ 1 500,00) x1 Nauticam Vacuum Check And Leak Detection System (US$ 200,00) x1 Nauticam 27cm Lanyard with shackles and mounting plates (US$ 20,00) x1 Nauticam bayonet mount lens holder (US$ 35,00) x1 Nauticam Wet Wide Angle Lens WWL-1 + Buoyancy Foam Float Collar + Hard Cap + M67 bayonet mount converter (US$ 850,00) x1 Nauticam mini flash trigger (US$ 125,00) x2 Nauticam double all arms 400mm (US$ 30,00 each) x2 Nauticam double all arms 200mm (US$ 25,00 each) x2 Nauticam double all arms 125mm (US$ 20,00 each) x10 StiX buoyancy floats (US$ 12,00 each) x2 Sea&Sea YS-D2 strobes (US$ 250,00 each) x8 AA rechargeable batteries (US$ 10,00) x3 Fiber optic cables (US$ 40,00 each) x2 Ikelite triple ball clamps (US$ 30,00 each) x4 Aquatica double ball clamps (US$ 15,00 each) x2 iTorch Venom C92 video lights (US$ 350,00 each) Total US$ 4370,00 + shipping. I'll like to sell the package preferably but I'm also open to split the kit. You can check all pictures in hi-res here : UW-KIT PHOTOS Best.

I have three Sea & Sea YS-D2 strobes for sale, surplus to my needs. Two are the Yellow D2(J) version and one non-J version. All strobes are in good condition, never flooded and include their original packaging, o-ring grease, diffusers, manuals etc. Asking AUD $600 each for the J versions and AUD $500 for the non J strobe. Buyer to pay shipping. Strobes located in New South Wales, Australia.

I have a pair of Sea and Sea YSD2’s (non J model). I’ve used these about a dozen dives with no issues. I bought them new in 2017. Will include rechargeable batteries, spare o-rings, ball and ys adapters, diffusers (100 and 120) and neoprene sleeves. asking $400 each or I’ll do the pair for $750. Shipping is included inside the continental US.

For sale a pair of Sea&Sea Ys-D2 in mint condition, never been used. 850usd excl shipping

I am half way ready to tell Sea & Sea exactly where they can shove my YS-D2 (non J) strobes. One had to replace a bulb after about a year. The second I had to replace a charred front housing. Both repairs were $200+ Now one of the strobes has a parasitic draw when the batteries are in it. If I prep my camera the night before and try to shoot it the next day, the batteries in one of the strobes will pretty much be dead. More than 24 hours, guaranteed completely dead. This is with the power switch set to "off." Has anyone had a similar problem? I am seriously considering replacing them with Inon Z330s or the new Retra strobes if they EVER actually ship. I really don't want to pay Sea & Sea a second time for YS-D2J which is what the original YS-D2 should have been...

I have a Canon 5D Mark IV with a Sea and Sea MDX 5D housing, Sea and Sea TTL optic converter & 2 YS-D2 strobes. I've been having intermittent problems with exposures in TTL mode for all ranges-macro as well as wide angle. I have all the modes set correctly Blue, blue, blue, but sometimes the left strobe not synching fully or at least exposures are under, or sometimes it looks like they didn't fire at all.... Through process of elimination, I've replaced the converter, swapped cables, even replaced the strobe. If I switch to manual Green, green, green, everything looks much better exposure wise and consistency. I don't mind this but I'm surprised that the TTL isn't working better. I don't think it would be my camera, but anyone with similar gear that could give insight would be greatly appreciated.

Where is the serial number located on a YS-D2 (J)? I seem to be missing it in the manual, on the housing, in the battery compartment, under the connector cap or mounting foot ... and sure could use a pointer as to where it is to be found.

Is there a way to tell with certainty if a YS-D2 is made in Japan (is a so called YS-D2J with supposedly less issues than the alternative is said to have (no first hand experience)) indeed - or is not really a YS-D2J? By that I mean by looking at the actual unit, not by looking at accompanying printed matter. Asking because if I choose to go that route used or new, It would help to know how to tell the difference.

Hello everyone, Does anyone have input in regards to the best batteries for a pair of YS-D2 strobes? I have heard good things about the Amazon Basics, Eneloops, or Eneloops Pro. Thanks in advance, Oscar Ramirez.

Hi all! Thanks for accepting me in the forum. I have read that a lot of people had troubles with the strobes YS-D2, but I haven't found anybody with my issue. Let's see if somebody can help me. The last two times I had use my underwater set up (Canon G7X, Nauticam Housing NA-G7X and strobe S&S YS-D2) the strobe is shooting always in maximum power, which is very inconvenient for macro. I've checked all the modes and I have the same problem with all of them (except of the Manual with pre-flash). I wonder if it's a problem with the batteries as they are brand new or the power selector. Any ideas what could be wrong? Thank you very much for your attention and replies.

Hi All, I'm working to understand how my a6000 works in detail with the aim of (possibly) making my own LED TTL converter. At the moment I use the a6000 with its internal flash to trigger a set of YS-D2 strobes using my optical cables. I either use the strobes in manual or TTL mode. The TTL is reasonable, but not always perfect. I wanted to understand how the a6000 TTL system works, so I connected a little oscilloscope to my hotshoe x-sync pin and used the other channel of the oscilloscope with a photodiode to monitor the flash. See attached 2 screen grabs for two flash types - Fill Flash, Rear Sync. I also did a rear sync, but it's result was remarkably similar. I wasn't able, in any case, either Manual, Aperture priority or full automatic, to witness any pre-flash whatsoever from the camera's internal flash. Does the a6000 meter TTL during the exposure? Am I missing something here. Welcome any insights, comments or suggestions to be able to run another oscilloscope test. Cheers!

Hello, I have deciding to sell my YS-D2 stobes. They are in very good condition and have been only been used on two dive trips. They have been well cared for and I have the original boxes, manuals, accessories, etc. Plus two CM Custom WA dome diffusors (valued at $150.00 + s/h), and neoprene protectors. $825 obo.

My next dive trip is not for a few months so I'm getting this out there to find any interested parties. I am open to selling this with several extras I'd normally keep (marked with a * below), as a "ready to dive" or "turn-key" system if someone is set on that Reason for selling = camera upgrade fund! There is a tiny bit of truth when I say I've outgrown this, but honestly, this is a very capable setup and if I have to tell you the limitations - are they going to be the limiting factor for you? Maybe? Maybe not. I am absolutely open to discussing the above... more information the better, right? Option 1: the "100% ready to dive/shoot" package This is for the small chance someone wants a FULL READY TO DIVE setup. Super macro to CFWA to WA to... Aquatica AD90 housing Nikon D90 (1 or 2 bodies) 3x YS-D2 stobes Aquatica AF macro port(18428) + flip adapter 8" dome port + shade * Mini dome port * extension rings * Nikon 60mm macro AF-D lens or Tokina 10-17 * Sea & Sea dual sync cable * ULCS arms + clamps + floats * .... + whatever else you need to purchase option 1 * * These are only for sale in this option. Unlikely I will sell these separately - this is only for someone who wants a "100% dive ready" setup Option 2: the "mostly ready to dive/shoot" package Just add arms and a lens and a sync cable Aquatica AD90 housing Aquatica AF macro port (18428) Nikon D90 (1 or 2) YS-D2 stobes (1 or 2) Option 3: pick and choose (asking price in USD) 1 - Aquatica AD90 housing - $800 1 - Aquatica AD90 housing + extras - $1000 (spare brand new nikonos style bulkhead $145, vacuum, spare rebuild $66 and o-rings) 2 - Nikon D90 bodies - $250/ea 2 - YS-D2 stobes - $425 1 - YS-D2 strobe in box (prize) - $450 1 - 110 degree wide angle wet lens - $375 (https://goo.gl/tzTPyU) Shipping is split 50/50 for USA. Open to sell internationally, but will need to research that further. Pics available on request To add some further detail these items. Housing - purchased used here on Wetpixel, never flooded it or had any issues. Very clean on the inside, outside has minimal, but some signs of use. It does have someones name on top (thanks Charles hah) but in very good shape otherwise. I can't speak for other housings, but Aquatica housings are solid/rugged. As this is my primary camera setup, I actively shoot this and just got back from two weeks in Bali. Can share pics of what this is capable of. This would come with quite a few extras from a full service kit to spare o-rings and a spare bulkhead. There is a Vivid leak sentinel v4 vacuum on this housing, but 100% honesty here - I think I may have killed the current electronics. However, I do have a back up electronics ($100 I think?) so I will be investigating further and worst case, throwing the back up circuit board in. D90 bodies - not much to say on these. Have original box for one. One of these was serviced about two years ago - I made the mistake of going to and from AC and hot/humid on an Indonesia trip and had to send it in to Nikon. I can look up shutter counts but overall, these are in great condition. The shutter release button shows scratches and signs of use (from the housing) but outside of that, I don't think you'll find a scratch on them. Sensor may need cleaned though, I noticed a few spots this trip. Ebay prices look fairly low though, so I may keep YS-D2 strobes - I purchased two of these, and then won one from a shootout contest (which has never seen water). I thought that I would replace my old and very used ys-110a strobes to get more light for WA, but to be honest, I found out that I do not like the "off center" focus light. Although a trivial detail for most(?), for me this is fairly big as I shoot a lot of macro and use snoots extensively. This is just awkward for me to line up the shot, and then adjust based on the offset of the focus light. The two used strobes have been on less then 20 dives each, and very likely less then 10. They have neoprene covers too so you'll likely not see any scratches, and like everything, well rinsed after dives. Wide angle wet lens - this hasn't seen any use since I started shooting DSLR a couple years ago. Pristine condition. 67mm threads - would probably be work great on almost any compact setup. https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/bluewater-wa110-wide-angle-lens Please ask away any questions. Slight preference is to sell the housing with option 1 or 2 but I understand that take time so... All gear in Southern California

Hello All For sale today are two brand new YS-D2 strobes, complete with packaging and all included accessories. These strobes have never been used, and opened only to photograph them. They are 100% functional, with no issues. Have moved to Seacam platform. They are located in Vernon BC, Canada. $1000 USD for the pair. Save about $120 over best price on Ebay. See my previous Wetpixel classifieds for feedback. ianmarsh@icloud.com ian

I am just getting started and have never done UW photography before.. Nonetheless, I am leaving for a two to three week UW photography trip to Asia on May 4th. Please let me go through what I have and what I think I need to buy. I already had the Olympus E-M1 Mark II camera, plus computer equipment and Adobe CC with Lightroom and Photoshop. I literally bought my first UW photography gear from ebay yesterday: -Nauticam CMC-1 $212.50 -Nauticam WWL-1 $531.00 -Panasonic PZ 14-42mm lens + Nauticam Port 29 + focus gear $338.33 The plan is to purchase: -Nauticam housing for E-M1 Mark II with vacuum alert protection -Panasonic 8mm f3.5 ( seems like a cost effective wide angle for a starter system -- compared to the 8mm PRO,) -Nauticam 4.33 inch port for Panasonic 8mm with PF-8 focus gear (With such a small port, am I giving up the ability to do over/under split shots?) -Olympus 60mm macro lens -Nauticam N85 port 65 with 0-60F focus gear for the 60mm lens Accessories -2 Sea and Sea YS-D2 strobes -diffusers for YS-D2s -Fiber Optic cables or sync cords -Focus Light (is a high powered video light too strong for a focus light?) -Nauticam Flexitray II with left and right handles. -Arms -Clamps -Floatation for arms and housing -arm/clamp adapters for strobes -Carrying handle -67mm adapter for CMC-1 and WWL-1? (Are the bayonet adapters useful?) Not sure: Covers for the strobes and ports so they don't get scratched? Bag to carry underwater for CMC-1, WWL-1, port covers and other miscellaneous items? How do you carry all your stuff? Lanyards (to connect camera to some part of the body or BC)? ---- I plan to purchase either used (on wetpixel classifieds or eBay) or from my local dealer (Optical Ocean Sales in Seattle) in spite of the extra 10% state sales tax. What else do I need? Please tell me absolutely everything I need. I don't want to get to Asia and not have something or discover that I bought gear that won't work well. The strobe connectors are a little mysterious to me. Is there a housing/strobe combination which allows TTL with the Olympus E-M1 Mark II (camera does not have an internal flash)? If I stick with the Nauticam housing and YS-D2 strobes what are the best strobe connectors -- fiber optic cables or sync cords? The accessories are still unknown and complicated to me. What is a good, high-quality arm/clamp setup for the Nauticam housing and YS-D2 strobes? Do I need floatation arms and if so, what size do you recommend for the setup above? Knowing nothing, I am thinking of a combination of Nauticam carbon fiber float arms and extra Stix floats, although I have no idea what sizes to get, Do I need a small backup camera if I am travelling on a remote liveaboard in Asia? I am thinking Sony RX100 III and the Fantasea housing. I am finding underwater photography is very complicated and expensive. The only reason I have gotten this far is from reading Alex Mustard's excellent book "Master Classroom," which has inspired me to take up this hobby. It is the best instructional book of any kind that I have ever read. In general, I want a good starter system with high-quality components. I would appreciate comments and advice from Wetpixel members. Thanks! I am just getting started and have never done UW photography before..

Hi all, I wonder if I'm a complete idiot and there's something obvious that I'm missing, but my LED flash trigger won't trigger my TS-D1 and YS-D2. I have the Aquatica AD500 with the optical ports for the flash trigger. The trigger fires my strobes just fine when the camera's out of the housing but not when it's in the housing. It looks to me that this is because the LEDs on the trigger are a long way off lining up with the optical ports on the housing when the camera is installed - so that there's little or no light from the trigger LEDs actually traveling along the optical cables. The flash trigger part number is 18956, which seems to be for the Sony a7 II, a7R II & a7S II (doesn't mention Nikon D500). Could I have the wrong flash trigger? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks, Geoff