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I would like to ask you a question. When it comes to storing for a long time the underwater housing, which of these options is the best? 1- Leave the O-ring and closed housing. 2- Leave the O-ring and open housing. 3- Remove the O-ring and store it in a small plastic bag.

For Sale Canon Power Shot S95 with Recsea Housing Includes the following items: Extra Batteries Extra Charger Carrying Case Card Card Carrying Case S95 Manual S95 Cheat Sheet Flexible stand RecSea Housing Spare O-ring Macro Lens port 3 Fiber Optic cables Lubricant Recsea manual Port Cover $200 Items Not sold separately Shipping US only Paypal only

Some O-Ring Basics: O-rings are one of the modern marvels that make our diving possible. To live and work happily with them, and to replace them when needed, it helps to be familiar with four O-ring basics: material, hardness, cross-section and diameter. Material: Most Scuba O-rings are black or gray, made of nitrile rubber or Buna-N, an artificial rubber-like elastomer mixed with carbon black to provide wear resistance (just like automobile tires). To quote: “Nitrile / NBR: (Buna-N) is the most widely used elastomer due to its excellent resistance to petroleum products, operating temperature range (-40°F to +257°F) and one of the best performance-to-cost values. It's an ideal material for aerospace, automotive, propane and natural gas applications” and “is reasonably priced and features good resistance to petroleum oils, ozone, sunlight and oxygen aging, relatively low compression set, good resilience and outstanding physical toughness.” (1) It is for good reason that Duro 70 nitrile O-rings are the most common and considered the most reliable (2). Infrequently used in Scuba equipment are Yellow O-rings, made of nitrile rubber dyed yellow, and Blue O-rings made of fluoro-silicone which is of relatively low tear strength and limited abrasion resistance (1). While the equipment’s brochure may state one should only replace an expensive and hard to obtain O-ring with one of the same specifications, I have replaced both yellow and blue O-rings with standard black nitrile O-rings. This approach may appear to be expedient, but saves time and money, and has worked well for me. Slightly softer gray O-rings, such as used by Nauticam, I suspect are made of nitrile rubber with a lower content of carbon black. I have replaced them with standard Duro 70 rings as needed, no problem. 2. Hardness is expressed in Duro, or Shore-A, units. It “is measured based on the depth of indentation by a standard size and shape impacting gauge”(2). The hardness of most available nitrile black O-rings is Duro 70, these O-rings are considered the most reliable and are the most widely available. 3. Inner Diameter: The I.D. of an O-ring can conveniently be measured, vertically and horizontally, with a metric ruler. I then use a school compass with a thin black ink pen to draw a circle of that radius (half the I.D.) on white office paper. When overlaid on the circle, the O-ring’s inner edge should barely touch it (see photo). 4. Cross Section: A good way to measure the C.S. is with an electronic digital metric caliper, available from eBay or Amazon for a very reasonable price (see photo). -- The C.S. and I.D. can be used, for example, to replace a lost O-ring. First measure the width of its groove to estimate the cross section. The I.D. is estimated by the length of a string fit into the groove. The length in mm. is divided by Pi, 3.1416 to approximate its I.D. Confirm you have the correct size using test O-rings and check for leaks. The housing’s main O-ring for the back to front seal, for example, must be the same size as the groove it fits in. In contrast, for small fittings sometimes the factory size O-ring is a fraction smaller that the groove they fit onto. For example, my Subal port EXR-3 extension needed an O-ring. The groove width is a bit over 3 mm, with a diameter of 95 mm. I tested the following O-rings I.D.: 85, 88, 90, 93 and 95. Obviously, the 85 thru 93 O-rings were a bit small and had to be stretched. The 95 O ring was almost bit loose and it was difficult to mount the EXR extension in the housing, as the O-ring did not fit and got pinched. The best fit was a 90 mm I.D. O-ring. As Subal uses a 3 x 90 mm, they must have intended for the O ring to be a bit small for a good fit. It is useful to keep written notes, measurements and paper work, including drawn circles, for future use. I have used this approach to recondition housings by replacing the defective or old O-rings. Tools: The tools are basic, a school drawing compass with fine tip pen, metric ruler, digital micrometer caliper, paper and pencil. References: 1. https://www.applerubber.com/products/o-rings/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAj4biBRC-ARIsAA4WaFhcEIFvbNl1aGmLdJLxJJX5qBzfJ0sv64oVftPGT51RgDB1Apc2a3saAitFEALw_wcB 2. https://www.globaloring.com/durometer/ Some O-ring suppliers https://www.applerubber.com/material-selection-guide/ http://www.theoringstore.com/ O-ring background https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O-ring ==

Hey guys, Proud owner of a S&S DX-2G with YS-01 strobe, which have both served me well for years. After all this time, I've noticed though, that the O-Rings on the arms (S&S arm 7) are starting to get very brittle. Just to be clear: I am talking about the thick O-Rings that help stabilize the joints of the arm in a certain position. Now I'd like to replace those sooner rather than later, and preferably before I get to Bali in August. Does anyone have any idea, where I might be able to purchase a set of those 4 O-Rings? I've gone through plenty of sites and online retailers, but they all only seem to offer replacement O-Rings for the strobe itself, not for the arm though... Any tips or advice welcome! Cheers for the help

Given that these oring are sold at outrageous prices, What's the size of these o-rings? Thank you in advance

I am selling a new Nauticam - Silicone O-Ring Set for NA-EM1 Housing Rebuild #28391 I bought this set as spare for emergencies. Located in Graz, Austria Shipment at buyers expense Price: € 40

Hey guys I've got a couple of Subal port type 3 o-rings left over from my move (err, some years ago!) to a type 4 port for my ND800 housing. One is black, one blue. I must admit I don't know what the difference is. If they are any use to you drop me a PM. I'll happily mail them to you free of charge if you live in the EU. It seems a pity just to throw them out if they can find a happy home.

Howdy folks, I picked up a Sea & Sea Motormarine III recently, and feel like I should install a new o-ring before using it underwater. The only problem is, everywhere I've checked does not have the o-rings, and they can't order them. What do y'all recommend in this situation? Determine the size of the o-ring and buy a generic one?

hi to all Inon Z240 Type IV users! I am one of them :-) Today after re-reading part of the cumbersome Z240 Type IV manual (basic operation), i saw on page 13 (o-ring maintenance method), that they recommended to re-grease the battery cap oring while he was seated in the groove (i.e. no need to take the o-ring out from the groove unless difficult to clear remaining dirt). However, over the last 5 years (!) i have been taking out the oring from its groove for lubrification, each and every time i changed the batteries! I am now wondering if i have wasted my time, though i am happy to think i could reduce significantly my photo gear maintenance time :-) But i must have been advised by someone to proceed the way i did with full oring removal each time cap is opened. So i'd like to hear how you do: 1/ do you remove the battery oring from its groove each time you want to grease it, or just grease it while it's seating in the groove (greasing the oring outside then)? 2/ do you do such oring maintenance each and every time you open the battery cap? thanks in advance for sharing your experience! Obviously, if your way of doing things resulted in strobe flood, please say so ;-) cheers Nicolas 2

I just realized that my nice & shiny NA-RX100IV housing has only a single o-ring at the door. This is of course some additional risk... Other than the vacuum valve, is there any means to check if its well sealed? Being a full aluminium housing, there is no way to check visually... Being one of the most expensive housings for the camera, "good for 100m", I expected two o-rings...

I recently purchased a Zen dp-100-NT port second hand to use on my Nauticam housing. It came with a Sea&Sea blue o-ring, but no silicone. Is it safe to use Nauticam silicone on the o-ring or does it need to be Sea&Sea silicone? As my housing is coming in from maintenance today, I'd really love to take the Zen for a dive tomorrow, but I am scared of using he wrong grease and possibly causing a flood. Anyone with experience on this?

The reason why I ask is that I don’t have the Sea&Sea specific O-ring grease. The Inon O-rings are yellow whereas the Sea&Sea are blue.