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Found 35 results

  1. hi to all Inon Z240 Type IV users! I am one of them :-) Today after re-reading part of the cumbersome Z240 Type IV manual (basic operation), i saw on page 13 (o-ring maintenance method), that they recommended to re-grease the battery cap oring while he was seated in the groove (i.e. no need to take the o-ring out from the groove unless difficult to clear remaining dirt). However, over the last 5 years (!) i have been taking out the oring from its groove for lubrification, each and every time i changed the batteries! I am now wondering if i have wasted my time, though i am happy to think i could reduce significantly my photo gear maintenance time :-) But i must have been advised by someone to proceed the way i did with full oring removal each time cap is opened. So i'd like to hear how you do: 1/ do you remove the battery oring from its groove each time you want to grease it, or just grease it while it's seating in the groove (greasing the oring outside then)? 2/ do you do such oring maintenance each and every time you open the battery cap? thanks in advance for sharing your experience! Obviously, if your way of doing things resulted in strobe flood, please say so ;-) cheers Nicolas 2
  2. Hi all, I've been using a D7000 in a Nauticam housing connected to a pair of Inon Z240 (Type 4) over fiber optic cables and using TTL exposure fine for some time. I'm relatively pleased with the results. This has been mostly on day trips where I might do a couple of dives in a day. Am going on vacation where I hope to make about 4 or 5 dives a day. I'd like to maximize my camera's internal battery life, so I don't have to crack open the housing between dives. So, am thinking about moving from TTL to manual exposure. The D7000 flash exposure can be set for TTL or Manual mode (Full thru 1/128 sec). I know how to set the Inon in sTTL mode (Main Mode Dial on sTTL, EV Control Dial on 'B', ACC button UP/On). But when it comes to manual mode, I have the following questions: - With the D7000, can I set the internal flash to 1/128 sec to trigger the Z240? - Would the Z240 settings then be this?: Main Mode Dial on M (or Full), EV Control Dial on whatever value, and the ACC button UP/On I'm assuming the D7000 requires the ACC button to be UP/On, regardless of my camera flash setting and the same for both sTTL and Manual modes on the Z240. Is the above correct? Thanks in advance.
  3. Hello everyone, I would like to share with you some of my underwater photos, I just started my underwater photography journey, at the moment I'm in Koh Tao, Thailand doing my dive master and than IDC. I have a lot time for fun diving and to play with my camera. I would like to say big thank you to Tim and Shark Business for great equipment I bought off them. https://www.facebook.com/dive4lifee
  4. Hi all, I am interested to buy one Z240 type 4 in perfect working condition, unflooded. Or, if you have one strobe but would like to have two of lesser power, I am proposing exchange of my 2x Inon D2000 (older models, but fully functional and never flooded) for 1 Z240. I am located in Croatia, so looking to buy only from EU sellers due to tax/customs fees for import from elsewhere. Payment with paypal unless you have a better option. Feel free to message me with offers should you have one for sale.
  5. I have the following items for sale. Selling because my wife and I just had our first child and I think it will be some time before I have a big dive trip again. Let me know if you have an questions. Happy to send pictures of anything from whatever angle you'd like. Thanks! Prices below include free shipping in the US. Nauticam NA-D7100 Housing: Excellent condition with signs of normal use. Recently used for 3 weeks in Raja Ampat/Lembeh with 0 problems. Includes reflective prism, electronic 5-pin bulkhead, and brand new spare body and port o-ring. Many of the pictures at toddbretl.com were taken with this housing. Have the original box/receipt. $3350 new (including extras), asking $2500 Nikon D7100 Camera Body: 19,204 actuations. Excellent condition. I had the sensor professionally cleaned last month. Includes original packaging and all original accessories. $900 new, asking $600 Inon z240 Strobe: Brand new, never opened. 800$ retail, asking $650 Nauticam Flash Trigger for NA-D7100: Like new condition, original packaging included. If you don't know what this does, I'd look it up - it's awesome. $220 new, asking $150 Sea & Sea Nikon 12-24 Zoom Gear: Like new. $190 retail, asking $100 Nauticam zoom gear for Sigma 17-70 HSM, Nikon Mount: Like new. $195 retail, asking $120 Nauticam zoom gear for Nikon 16-35: Like new. $195 retail, asking $120.
  6. Unfortunately one of my Inon Z240 is acting up, and this just a week from my trip to the Philippines. It seems not be working in manual or full mode - it fires but seems to be stuck at the same low output regardless what the output dial is set to. The magnet is in, so ACC should be off. When in STTL-LOW it seems to work, the output changes depending on the camera's flash power. I know there has been some issues reported with the magnet being corroded on the Z240s, so I removed the push button to have a look. The magnet seemed OK - didn't see any obvious corrosion - but it was loose and not attached to the button. Very well, attached it yesterday and retried – same issue. Since I have another Z240 that is working, I tried to switch the push buttons just to see if that made any difference. Unfortunately the issue remains. The second Z240, which was was working fine before, is still working with the other Z240s push button/magnet in place. Some quick facts: * Olympus OMD EM-5 * Nauticam housing * Optical flash trigger, use the OMDs flash to trigger (set to manual, as low as possible) Not sure what else to do, is shipping for service the only option left? I'm going to Hong Kong just before my Philippines trip staying for a few days, does anyone know of a Inon service center that might have a look in-house? Many thanks!
  7. I have a pair of Inon Z240 strobes for sale that I purchased new about 18 months ago. I'm downsizing to a different rig and switching strobes as well. These strobes have been gently used and well maintained - no floods or problems! In addition to the strobes, I have the original boxes/paperwork, spare o-rings, spare diffusers, and spare battery caps. Brand new Inon Z240's go for between $600-700 USD/each. Will sell the pair and all listed above for $1000 and buyer pays shipping. Will only accept PayPal... PM if interested!!
  8. Hello all, I am writing to report a problem i have encountered with my 2 Inon Z240 type IV strobes. I have done a search on this forum for similar issues, but what i found was different, people were having issues in Manual, not in TTL, and this was due to corroded ACC (auto-cancel circuitry) button. First, let me state that these 2 strobes have been purchased in April 2011, always used together, first with a Nikon D7000 setup (housed in Hugyfot), and since May 2013, with an Olympus OM-D EM-5 camera (housed in Nauticam NA-EM5). Always connected to cameras with optical fibres, produced by Inon (those which screw nicely on the strobes). I use them mostly in TTL, though occasionally i have used them in manual with my Olympus camera (in which case, i set the camera to shoot manually, 1/64th of flash power, so I should not be impacted by ACC whatsoever). I never had any trouble with these strobes, until recently: -21nd June: did 2 dives, strobes worked perfectly. In the evening, i changed the eneloop batteries in preparation for the second day. -22nd June: from the beginning of the dive, the left strobe didn't work well, either not firing, or firing very weak. I did multiple configuration changes, from TTL to manual and back, unplugged the optical fibers from the housing side and plugged back. At the end of the dive it seemed back to normal (screwed almost the full dive...), but honestly i don't remember exactly what i could have done which worked eventually (had other gear issues and tried many many things). Needless to say i checked the stobes for water leak in the evening, there wasn't any. -27th June: we go diving! and i have the unpleasant surprise to see my strobes are going mad again: first i am shooting TTL and then manual, the left strobe doesn't fire at all, the right strobe fires a tiny bit, not enough to lit. Then i switch to manual and it doesn't help, i don't manage to lit the subject... Apparently (my wife was observing) the left strobe didn't shoot, and the right one did (but was mostly very weak). However i randomly had some shots well lit (a bit over-exposed actually), which i presume were lit by the right strobe - it's been about 1 shot every 5, and then i got some series of 5-6 shots with right strobe firing... To conclude, the behavior of the right strobe was totally unpredictable, and the left strobe wouldn't shoot. -28th June: i am back home and take the housing in the pool for some more relaxed testing (I hadn't opened anything). Same symptoms as before, so I try to switch the optical fibers (just the strobe ends), and miracle! my left strobe is now working, and the right one doesn't work. Of course i am guessing i've got 1 optical fibre problem, but just to see, I also switch the optical fibres on housing end and... both strobe work! both in TTL and manual.. Of course before each dive i would do a dry strobe test, which passed all times. I would tend to conclude on fibre optics issues, but when I look at my fibre optics on strobe end i can clearly see the camera's flash light transmits well, on both. I can't say I am relieved because i am still not clear on the root cause, so I don't know whether my strobes will spoil my next dive or not. It seems easy to blame the optical fibres, but why would the strobe manage to lit from time to time (27th June), whereas I haven't touched the optical fibres?? Does anyone see clearer in what happened to me? Could it be that my optical fibers got sort of ill-positioned (twice) and that would explain the whole problem? Another thing that worries me is the call i gave to an Inon dealer on 27th June, to get his opinion on my problem. He's saying that it's not at all surprising that strobes stop working after 3 year of usage, because there are components which perish inside (e.g. capacitors, but also others). So he offered that i send the strobes to him for repair, and in the (likely) event that he wouldn't be able to fix them, he would ship them to Inon japan. He sais such a service has costed about 500 Euros (and one month waiting) to another customer for 2 Inon Z240s!!! I asked if there would be other strobe brand where you don't have to pay 250 EUR/strobe after 3 years, and he told me Inon were the most reliable ones in his view... 3 years of ownership for me should be about 150 dives, and i am sure there's plenty of much more active shooters around here. I am wondering if all have had failing Inon Z240s. What is your reading of the above? Is it normal to go through costly repair of your Inon Z240 after 3 years of usage? thank in advance for your help on this, i am must stay i am quite puzzled/disappointed, but maybe I am just unaware that strobes are (expensive) perishable items. cheers Nicolas
  9. I have 2 Inon Z-240 (type 4) strobes for sale. They are in great condition, only used on about 30 dives. I was using them with my Canon 7D. Unfortunately I have to sell them as I am videographer and need to buy video lights and can not justify financially to have all these expensive lights. These strobes were always transported securely in my Pelican case. What is included 2 Inon Z-240 Strobes (with diffusers) (Like new) (Not Pictured)Spare O-rings, Inon Grease and and all the user manuals that come with the strobes new. None of which have been opened (except for a little grease) Asking 1,300 for both strobes, will ship anywhere in the US. Accept Paypal. Thanks! Alex
  10. INON SNOOT SET FOR Z240/D2000 FOR SALE - £205 including shipping Currently advertised on eBay UK at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271162227079?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649. The must have accessory for underwater photographers - this Inon Snoot Set is designed specifically to fit the Inon Z240 or D2000 strobe range. Snoots can be used to block extra diffused light to eliminate backscatter, highlight a subject by illuminating only the subject to give a spotlight effect on a subject, provide directional lighting to show the texture of the subject, etc. The Inon Snoot Set contents: Rubber Hood 72, Rubber Hood Sleeve, Step up Ring, W40°Filter LE x 2 , Snoot Tube 10, Snoot Tube 26. PLUS a spare W40°Filter LE & a Mesh Bag with Snap Clip for safely carrying the Snoot Tubes on a dive. The Rubber Hood is securely attached onto your Z240/D2000 strobe via a supplied dedicated aluminium sleeve, which is screwed onto the diffuser mount screw holes on the strobe. The Snoot Hood has a lanyard to attach to the strobe so it cannot be lost. Selling as upgraded my strobes to Sea & Sea YS-250 Pro's and the Snoot does not fit this model without modification! The item is in excellent 'As New' Condition with absolutely no sign of corrosion on any of the metal parts. This retails for £255 at Cameras Underwater, so save yourself £50! More info on the Inon Snoot Set can be found at http://www.inon.jp/products/strobe/snoot/z240.html and http://www.camerasunderwater.co.uk/inon-z240-snoot. Item located in Thailand, so will take approx. 7-10 days for (FREE) delivery to the UK/USA/CAN/EUR/AUS. Other countries may take a little longer. Some sample images using this Snoot are on my website at http://www.dive4photos.com/Gallery/Macro-Gallery.html.
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