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Found 24 results

  1. Hello - I'm selling my entire Subal D500 system (macro & wide angle) - complete, except for strobes/arms - worth over $14,073 new (over $15,000 with tax) for $6,800 + shipping. All are in excellent condition. You can see some of the pictures I've taken with the system: https://www.instagram.com/am_underwater/. I'm selling the system and a whole and not individual pieces. Details of what is in the package is below: Subal Camera Housing Subal Nikon D500 Housing $4,118.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Subal-ND500-Nikon-D500-Underwater-Housing-Type-4 Camera Nikon D500 Camera body $1,600.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Nikon-D500-Camera Lenses Nikon 60mm macro $600.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Nikon-60mm-G-f2-8-Lens Nikon 105mm VR $900.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Nikon-105mm-VR-f2-8-Lens Tokina 10-17 $ 469.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Tokina-10-17mm-f3-5-4-5-Lens-Nikon Nikon Nikkor 55-300,, 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED VR $689.00 https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-55-300mm-Vibration-Reduction-International/dp/B01BPH5SYY Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G Lens $150.00 https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-AF-S-NIKKOR-Focus-Cameras/dp/B001S2PPT0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=8RHYX0G3CM70&keywords=nikon+dx+af-s+nikkor+35mm+1+1.8g&qid=1638197494&sprefix=nikon+nikkor+35mm+1.%2Caps%2C486&sr=8-1 Kenko 1.4X PRO 300 Teleconverter DGX Nikon AF Digital SLRs $237.00 https://www.amazon.com/Kenko-1-4X-Teleconverter-Nikon-Digital/dp/B002C6QE00/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=kenko+1.4x+pro+teleconverter+nikon+d500&qid=1638197689&sr=8-1 Viewfinder Subal 45 degree viewfinder $1,308.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Subal-WS-45-Angled-Underwater-Housing-Viewfinder Original Subal Housing Viewfinder Leak Detection Subal Leak Sentinel V5 Vacuum System + electric pump $435.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Subal-Vivid-Underwater-Housings-Leak-Sentinel-V5-Vacuum-System Focus / Zoom Gear Focus gear 105mm $190.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Subal-AM-Switch-Gear-for-Nukkor-AF-105mm-28-micro Focus gear 60mm $ 160.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Subal-Focus-Gear-for-Nikon-60mm-G-lens-88-Tooth Subal Zoom gear for Tokina 10-17 Nikon (D90)(ND300) $190.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Subal-Zoom-gear-for-Tokina-10-17-88-Tooth Tokina 10-17 focus gear $190.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Subal-Zoom-Gear-Tokina-10-17mm-Nikon-80-tooth Ports Subal EXR-40/4 Extension Ring, 40mm - Type 4 $212.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Subal-EXR-404-Extension-Ring-40mm-Type-4 Subal FP-75/4 Flat Port - Type 4 $290.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Subal-FP-75-Underwater-Flat-Port-Type-4 Subal EXR-33/4 Extension Ring, 33mm - Type 4 $197.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Subal-EXR-334-Extension-Ring-33mm-Type-4 Subal EXR-18/4 Extension Ring, 18mm - Type 4 $180.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Subal-EXR-184-Extension-Ring-18mm-Type-4 ReefNet SubSee Adapter old style 105 (Subal) for diopter $200.00 https://www.backscatter.com/ReefNet-SubSee-Adapter-old-style-105-Subal DP-100 mini dome $958.00 https://www.backscatter.com/Subal-DP-100-Underwater-Dome-Port-Type-4 Flash Trigger Turtle Flast Trigger $325.00 https://www.backscatter.com/TRT-TTL-i-TURTLE-adapter-for-Nikon Turtle Flast Trigger (backup new) $325.00 https://www.backscatter.com/TRT-TTL-i-TURTLE-adapter-for-Nikon Subal Ball Mounts x 3 $ 75.00 Batteries x 3 + Dual Charger $ 50.00 New Subal body oring $ 25.00 TOTAL System New: $14,073.00
  2. There's been some discussion of late of various combinations of lenses with a Kenko 1.4TC: what works, what doesn't. I've got both the Kenko 1.4TC DG and DGX models, a Nikon D500, a D6, the Tokina 10-17 and the Nikkor 8-15. I thought Wetpixelers might find it useful to see the results of the various combinations. What works is in bold. D500 (DX) D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Tokina 10-17: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Tokina 10-17: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Nikkor 8-15: Err message. No AF; no vignetting at any focal length D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Nikkor 8-15: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length Nikon Z6 (and, presumably D7) with firmware 3.0 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Nikkor 8-15: AF works; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Nikkor 8-15: No AF; No aperture readout; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Tokina 10-17 : No AF; aperture read out; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Tokina 10-17 : No AF; No aperture read out; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Conclusion a. If you want to use the Kenko with a Tokina 10-17 on a D500 no problem with the DG or DGX model b. If you want to use the Kenko with a Nikkor 8-15 on a D500, you need the DGX model c. If you want to use the Kenko with a Nikkor 8-15 on a Z6/Z7 you need the DG model d. Forget trying to use either the Kenko DG or DGX with a Tokina 10-17 on the Z6/Z7 (well why would you anyway) I don't have the Kenko HD model so can't comment on that but perhaps if someone has, they could add the data for that. Hope this helps, guys Tim
  3. I have a D500 with less than 3400 shutter actuations in excellent shape. battery, charger, cables, manual, original box. 950.00 includes shipping lower 48. Would consider "package deal" if buying Ikelite housing that I have listed earlier. jcdovala@verizon.net
  4. Hi all, I now have available an excellent, lightly used Nikon D500 System! Completely mint condition, never flooded, etc. etc. This package consists of Nikon D500 camera body, Nauticam D500 Housing with Vacuum System Installed, and Nauticam N120 4.33 inch Acrylic Dome Port for the Tokina 10-17mm lens! Comes with Instruction Manuals, spare o-riings, and grease. Am selling in order to give a full frame camera a try! Pricing is $3995.00 firm. Thanks for looking! Tom
  5. Hello, I'm selling my NA-D500 housing. Less than 50 dives on it, it's in like-new condition, original box/packaging etc. $2650. Has the M16 vacuum valve with pump. Shoot me a note if you have any questions, want specific photos, etc. Thanks for looking, Todd www.toddbretl.com
  6. I am looking to sell the following as a complete package. It's almost brand new, used once and tested for leaks. Perfect condition. Aquatica D500 housing with moisture sensor and dual optical bulkheads Flash trigger for the D500 Gears for the Tokina 10-17 (not the lens itself) Aquatica mini macro port 18430 Zen mini glass dome for the Tokina 10-17 DP-100-AT Vacuum (installed) - Leak sentinel V4 (tested) 2 attached ball mounts on handles Fiber optic cables for Sea & Sea strobes Total value of the set up is over $5,000 and I am looking for $3,900.
  7. A number of useful settings of the Nikon D500 are controlled with the Main and Sub Command dials. These settings can be a bit difficult to manipulate, particularly underwater, as they may require two hands and continuous pressure on a given button. Here are two easy ways that require only one hand to set the Nikon D500 buttons. The first approach uses the Control Panel as the display: Press the button of the chosen setting; its settings appear in the Control Panel, such as setting the WB. Use the Main and Sub Control Dials to make the desired settings. To exit, press the same control button or the shutter release half way. That’s it. The second approach uses the Main View Screen as the display: Press the Info key to access the main screen, then the key of the chosen setting. A menu for that setting automatically pops up in the main view screen, which can be set with the Control Dials. Again, the settings we want to adjust remain on the screen until we exit by pressing that same Setting button. While both approaches produce the same results, the advantages of the Info + Setting on the Main View Screen approach are that, as the main screen is four times larger than the control panel, it is much easier to see it underwater, it requires only one hand, and a simple menu for each function pops up automatically. We need to prepare the D500 menu in two ways: First, to allow the Setting to remain on the screen while we adjust it (ref 1), open Menu > Custom Settings Menu (CSM) > f6 Release button to use dial > ON Second, to give us plenty of time to play with the settings, open Menu > CSM > c4 Menus and Information display > set Monitor off delay to 10 minutes or similar. That’s it to prepare the camera, now for specific settings. Here are some examples of the info + main screen way to adjust a setting: ISO sensitivity setting: Press the info button, then the ISO button. An ISO menu appears, the sub command dial turns the ISO function on or off; the Main command dial sets the ISO value. To exit, press info again, or press the shutter release half way. Focus Point setting: Set the Focus mode lever (front of camera, lower left) to AF. Now, press info, then the AF-mode button to show a Menu to set the AF-area mode/Focus mode. Turn the main command dial for continuous AF-C or for single AF-S. The sub-command dial (top right front) sets the focus area to Single, Auto area AF, Group area AF with 25, 72, 153, and 3D tracking. Exit by pressing the info button. The number of focus points, 55 vs 15, is set with the Menu > CSM > a6 Autofocus. Flash settings: Press info then the flash button: A menu with Flash compensation and Flash Mode will appear. Flash compensation is set with the front, sub command dial. Flash mode is set with the main command dial; be careful with Flash mode as it has a Flash Off option (the previous owner of my D500 had set the flash mode to off, this caused me lots of grief). Here are a few more settings: Press info, then one of the Top 4 left buttons: Qual button: Image quality/size. WB button: White balance preset (d1 -d6) /color temp PRE, K and color grid. Mode button: Exposure mode P,M,A,S. Metering button: Matrix, center weighted, spot and highlight weighted. Press info, then one of the Top 3 right buttons: Red dot button: does nothing. ISO button: please see description above. +/- button (Exposure compensation): Sets the main control dial from +5.0 to -5.0. - These approaches also work for my Nikon D7100 and D800, and probably for similar Nikon models, which I have not tried. In closing, please share more ways to set the D500, as it has sooo many settings... Reference: 1. Nauticam NA-D850 ISO control - Comment by Harbor Seal (Adam Hanlon), Wetpixel 22 Dec 2018. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=63322
  8. Is anyone considering these two heavyweights? If so, what's swaying you one way or the other? Personally I'm going for D500 as the price is indeed a factor, but crop underwater is not that bad of a thing. I love landscape photography but I can't justify that price-tag for the occasional full frame landscape shot. I'll probably end up compensating with a slightly wider lens on the D500.
  9. ​For Sale -Aquatica Nikon D500 housing #20079 with fiber optic connectors( I can switch then to nikonos connectors) and vacuum system,​this housing has never been wet only unboxed to photograph and comes with all original box and accessories Retail Price is $3031 Your Price is $2200 and I am including an XIT404 body cap($50 Value) and XIT404 Focus/Zoom knob($45 value) Buyer pays shipping/insurance and 3% PayPal fee my email is deedeeflores01@aol.com for fast reply
  10. Thought I would put this out there, thinking at the moment of selling my D500 kit, everything is takin care of really well. The reason for selling is thinking of moving to the GH5 system to have better video and just a smaller kit topside and rent bigger cameras when needed. The housing does not come with a Dome since I will use it again on a GH5 housing. The housing is also the version that only goes to 50 feet deep, you would need to buy the new back to go to 200ft. Nikon D500 Body 3rd Party Battery Grip Tokina 10-17mm Lens 64gb Lexar QXD Card and Reader Camera Kit is $1800 Ikelite D500 Housing Base (50ft) - Housing comes with everything that a new housing would come with just not selling my dome. - Housing is $1200 If you buy both as a Kit I will drop $200 making the price for the full kit $2800 If you have any questions please let me know and I will get back to you. I will get photos up in the next few days.
  11. Hey, I'd be interested in buying a Nauticam housing for Nikon D7200, D7500 or D500. Preferably with a camera body, but that's not mandatory. Ports not needed but must be with vacuum system. All offfers much appreciated. Thanks!
  12. A couple of weeks ago a Wetpixel reader emailed me directly and asked for my experience of moving from a Nikon D800 to the D500 specifically in a Subal housing. The reader thought the answer would be of wider interest to WP readers - so here it is. As I say, this is based on my own personal experience. I'm no pixel peeper or techno ninja - I just really like taking pictures underwater - so some might argue with techie detail or my choice of gear. Fair enough! "I’ve always been a keen macro shooter. Since about 2008, I've moved from a Nikon D300/Subal to the Nikon D800/Subal - and now the D500/Subal. I’ve also moved from electrically initiated strobes fired from the D300/Subal to fibre optic in the D800/Subal. I found the switch to fibre a really good experience. Fibre is so much more flexible and rugged and is easier for using TTL - which I like especially for macro. I make the point on strobes connections as I think it’s an important part of the D800/D500 consideration. FORMAT Both the D500 and the D800 are superb! I found with the D300/D500 and a DX sensor that using the Nikkors 60mm and 105mm worked well for macro. But with the D800 you only need the 105mm. With the FX sensor on the D800 the 60mm is too short. So with the D800 I only traveled with one macro lens and one port, the Nikkor 105mm and the Subal FP-105VR. I have got so used to the 105mm that, so far, with the D500 I’m only using the 105mm and have not gone back to using a 60mm. The D800 gives you LOADs of pixels which makes cropping easy and flexible - ideal for macro; and you can also switch to a DX image (with the Subal you can do this easily underwater) on the D800 which, then, effectively gives you a roughly 160mm macro lens - with no real loss of quality. So highly flexible. HANDLING Handling of the D500 or D800 is, in my view, broadly the same. The D800 Subal housing is slightly bigger (it’s slightly taller - for good reason which I’ll explain) but not hugely so. The controls between the two Subal housings are pretty much the same - the usual Subal high-build quality and superb “feel”. STROBES AND TTL Here’s the big difference: the D800 can fire strobes using fibre or electrical cables (although mine is only set up for fibre) initiated, in the case of fibre, by the camera’s pop-up built-in flash (hence the slightly larger housing). Electric connections use, of course, a hot shoe link to electrical bulkheads. However the D500 cannot initiate firing strobes on its own via fibre optics. There is no built-in camera flash on the D500. You therefore have to buy a strobe initiator - whether the Subal V3 system or a Turtle TTL or something like that. The electronics fits inside the housing and connects to the camera hot shoe and then to LEDs fitted inside the housing attached to the fibre optic bulkheads. When the camera fires, the strobe initiator flashes an LED which then activates the strobes. These initiators, in most cases, will also give you TTL - which comes automatically with the D800’s in-built flash. I bought the V3 system from Subal which is pricey but seems good - although I have had some initial problems with the LEDs failing - which Subal have replaced. WIDE-ANGLE The other thing I really liked about the D800 was WA shooting. I find the images amazing: sharp, beautiful colours - especially the blues. I have sold a lot of images from this especially from trips to the Red Sea. I’ve not yet had chance to test out the D500 in the same way but I really hope I don’t lose that D800 WA capability! SUMMING UP So, on balance, nothing really to chose from between the D500 and D800 by my experience so far in terms of image quality or handling. The only thing I would flag up is the additional cost of the D500 strobe initiator - which, as I have hopefully explained, you don’t have with the D500 and which you do get with the D800. I’ve had my D500 system about 3 months and have done one trip with it and shot about 3000 images. I’m really pleased with it. Was it really worth switching from the D800 with all the costs involved? Honestly, I’m not sure. The D800/Subal is superb. If I had realised fully the implications of the D500 not having a built-in flash to initiate the strobes via fibre optics (which I love!) - and the costs involved of doing this - I’m not entirely sure I would have made the switch. "
  13. Looking to purchase a Sea and Sea MDX D500 Housing. Would consider Nauticam as well.
  14. Hello, I am selling my Nikon D500 setup for UW photography bought in January 2017. The equipment is in excellent working condition and will serve great to a new owner. The reason for sale is a switch to a new system. Nikon D500 (19k clicks) Sigma 10mm F2.8 Fish Eye 128Gb XQD Lexar card Lexar XQD card reader Hugyfot D500 housing HugyCheck pressure check system 6.5'' Acrylic dome (Januar 2018) 20mm extension ring (Januar 2018) 50mm extension ring Zoom ring for Nikon AF-S 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5G ED DX Package = 3590€ + shipping D500, 128Gb XQD card + reader+ Sigma 10mm FE = 1690€ + shipping Hugyfot D500 + dome + 20mm & 50mm extension ring + zoom ring = 2190€ + shipping For more info I am available through PM or samo.jeranko(at)gmail.com Best regards, Samo Jeranko
  15. New Nikon MB-D17 Multi Power Battery Pack Grip for the Nikon D500 Offers both enhanced handling capabilities as well as extended battery life. It accepts one EN-EL15 lithium-ion battery pack in the included holder (battery not included). Alternately eight AA batteries can be used with the included MS-D12 AA Battery Holder $325 includes shipping within the USA PayPal Accepted
  16. Selling my Nauticam underwater housing for Nikon D500. Less than a year old. Used on 15 dives only. (Upgrading to D850). Excellent condition with a few cosmetic scuffs. Asking U.S. $2250 (new price $3500). Optional extras: Nikonos 5-pin bulkhead $80; TTL converter circuit for Ikelite and Inon $390; vacuum valve $209. D500 camera body for sale to buyer of housing. One year old, 3290 shutter activations. $1200. Shipping from Hawaii, U.S.A. not included.
  17. Hi Have a small problem with my optical LED flash trigger, I have been using the TTL-flash trigger for awhile and no problem at all! Im using it mostly in manual mode and yesterday it stopped working, the LED was trigged (could see red light) but very tiny, so I changed the batteries and everything was fine, after 4 dive (700 shoots) same problem appeared again, if Il wait it I can take a photo, but not several pictures. I tried to adjust the strobe output to "-3ev" and it worked better but not solve the problem. Its appear that the batteries is drained after so short usage? what to do? best/Anders
  18. Hi there, I have an Aquatica AD500 housing, and I was just trying to screw a tripod mount onto the bottom, and I can't seem to get any of my 1/4-20 screws to go in any further than about one turn! Is there some obvious fact I am missing about the screw holes on Aquatica housings? Is there usually some sort of forcing that needs to be done at first? I don't want to damage the finish, not get a screw locked in there, but nothing seems to screw in, not sure if its an issue with Aquatica housings in general or just mine.. I reached out to Aquatica on FB but they seem to take forever to reply. (Sorry for the terrible phone pic)
  19. Bought a D500 when it came out but wanting to go back to a Full Frame for more underwater work ( I just like it better) and found a great deal on a D4s body, so looking to sell soon. The lens in the photo is not for sale Comes with the Following: D500 Body ( like new been used a bit but in great shape, dont know the full shutter count but cant be that high) Box and everything it came with Lexar 64gb QXD + Reader Contact for more images, asking $2000 for it. This package new is $2300 without shipping, I will ship for free to the lower 48 states. Will ship as soon as paid for.
  20. I want to upgrade my rig from a rx100m2 with inon wet lenses and strobes. (I have been saving for a while though) The Olympus OMD E1 m2 looks very interesting, but I'm wondering if I should go for a nikon d500. I'm not concerned about size difference, but I have never use a DSRL. At the end, price difference is around 30%. So price is not the most important issue. I want to do wide and Macro, so far I have managed some decent macro with strong diopters but not much luck with wide angle. Due to my lack of experience, I'm a bit worried about not seeing a substancial image improvement when compared to my current rx100m2. Have any of you guys have gone trough this when upgrading? Kind regards, Joss
  21. Here are few macro examples taken on a single dive during the week with the Nikon D500 with 60mm Macro and 1.4x Kenko teleconverter. Unfortunately the conditions were better suited to wide angle and local visability had cleared up and lots of Grey Nurse Sharks coming right up to you, but managed to find some interesting macro subjects. Highlight was finding a large Yellow Kneed Sea Spider.
  22. Subal announce New housing ND500 for Nikon D500. The developing is finish and its coming soon on market!!!
  23. Hi. I have done the first tests underwater with the new Nikon D500 DX camera but mainly to get it to work inside my Sea&Sea D810 housing. So far I can use Aperture, Shutter, AF-On, on/off and take pictures. I had the menu button, multi selector (only up) and ok button working to but was pretty useless as you need multi selector (right) to work to make settings. The second reson for my test was to figure out what port combo that would work best with the Nikon 10,5mm @ f4 I tested the following domes and best one starting from the top and worst one at the bottom: Sea & Sea fisheye port 230mm Zen dome Sea & Sea optical port with 20mm extension ring (a little vignetting). Sea & Sea optical port I will do real dark water shooting during the next 4 days and I will keep you posted on how the new D500 handles in those conditions. So far what I have seen in the pool is that the DX D500 will give me a ton of better corner sharpness compared to my FX D810 witch was expected. kind regards // Alex
  24. Hello Wetpixel! Initially I posted my question on this thread but it would probably deserve a dedicated discussion. My setup: Two Inon Z240 Type IV strobes, setup to be triggered via fiber optic cables (cables attached, working on previous Nauticam DSLR housing). Shooting fully in Manual mode, strobe outputs controlled manually via the strob knobs (not using TTL). Nikon D500 camera, in Nauticam housing. Because D500 doesn't have internal flash, Nauticam's new external flash triggering system is used, and connected to the D500 via a hot shoe. See here under section "External Flash Triggering" - i am NOT using the optional TTL circuitry, just the baseline one, which works in manual mode only. The problem: Inons don't fire My investigations so far: I am pretty sure the Inons are setup properly (i've switched from TTL shooting to Manual a while ago), and in fact i have been switching the fiber optics from the D500 housing to the D300s housing which i still have, and with the D300s Nauticam housing both strobes fire properly. So clearly the communication between NA-D500 housing and the Inons is not right. I made sure the NA-D500 emits a light signal: i unplugged the fiber optics and looked through the 2 "windows" and, surprise, they both emit a (strong) red light. So i confirmed the housing produces some light. Now i checked on the other end of the fiber optic cables (strobe side), and i do see the red light properly coming through the optical cable, so for me the fiber optic cables are fine - anyways they work perfectly with NA-D300s housing (triggered by the D300s' internal flash. My theories/open question so far: is it normal that the Nauticam LED flash triggering system emits red light? As far as i know LEDs consume fewer power when emitting white/blueish light. are Inon Z240 type 4 strobes supposed to work with a red light when using fiber optics as a trigger? I would be surprised that this very popular strobe model isn't compatible with the new Nauticam LED flash triggering system, but i just don't know. Can anybody help me figure out why it is not working, and how to fix this? I believe the NA-D5 housing uses the exact same strobe triggering system, so maybe some D5 shooters could advice? Some would say RTFM, but in fact the NA-D500 manual is still being written, that's one of the funny aspects of being a very early adopter cheers Nicolas
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