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Found 10 results

  1. Good day everyone, After years of following WetPixel (WP) on Instagram I've taken the plunge and formally joined. I recently upgraded from a mirrorless 4/3* to a full frame Nikon D850. Wow what a camera! Shooting it in a Nauticam housing with the vacuum system, which I love. For strobes I use the YSD2 J's from Sea & Sea and the Z240's from Inon. Our last trip I added two Nauticam 70x300mm carbon fiber float arms. I thought I had my rig neutrally buoyant before, but I was wrong. Being able to have the camera float at depth for 10-15 seconds before slowly sinking was a joy to behold. At times I found myself playing with my rig if I couldn't find a compelling shot or was completing the safety stop. I've been diving since late 2006 and took up UW Photography in early 2014, so still learning a lot. I like to say I'm a diver first and a photographer second, which is true most of the time. For the past four years my wife and I travel around 100 days a year and 2/3 of that is diving and shooting. In 2011 I made my first trip to the Solomon's and have returned once since then, but have trips planned in 2020 and 2021. 2017 was our first introduction to Indonesia, where we have returned three times since then with more on the books in the next two years. I am almost over diving in the Caribbean, as Indo and the Pacific has a hold on me. As far as shooting I tend to prefer macro as I can control the foreground and background easier, but I am enjoying the challenge of wide angle. At this point in my craft I'm trying to move away from the animal ID shot and become more artistic. I can easily spend 10-40 minutes on a single subject/setup. We have been attending workshops from Backscatter for techniques and post processing with Erin Quigley and Jim Decker. I've also attended three of their Digital Shootouts. If anyone is interested I have a hobby website http://brownduckphoto.comthat does not get as much attention as it should. Best, Andy *eventually listed in the classifieds
  2. I have two TTL converters for the Nauticam D850 and they are horrible. 90 percent are way under exposed. I am shooting all manual now on my macro work. They are essentially costly, useless electronics. In the most basic, close up, nudibranch simple shots one can do, the TTL fails miserably, significantly under exposes. Someone has to call out Nauticam for this. In my opinion they are selling an inferior product. When you compare the converter to my old system, a Nauticam D7100 system with fiber optic, nearly 90 percent accurate exposure. Granted the D7100 is using the cameras TTL system, but you would think that the engineers at Nauticam, who I consider very good at what they do, would have done more field testing before launching the board. Where I bought my housing, they could not get the first circuit board to function with TTL. They had to order another one, which worked topside. But until you actually put this in the field, underwater, will you recognize its inferiority for such a high end system. Really disappointed. Here is one image where TTL would not properly light the subject. Simple, easy. Ended up using manual. Strobes pointed close within 8-12 inches and directly at the subject. Could not have had easier situations for the TTL to function properly. Will post some additional examples in a bit after my dive of images that the ttl would not work...well not in any case has the ttl actually worked. Joe
  3. Hi, I have been using my Subtronic PRO160 strobes (optic fiber) and Sea&Sea YS-D1 with a Nikon D800 successfully up to shutter speeds of 1/320 (always with optic fiber using a manual led trigger that I installed in a Nauticam Housing, with camera flash sync speed set to 1/320 auto-fp). I've upgraded my camera to a Nikon D850 in a Nauticam housing with Nauticam's manual led trigger installed as default. Yesterday I've tried my Subtronic's PRO160 UW for the first and they only were able to successfully light each photo if I used shutter speeds below 1/60 (the camera configured slower speed to use with flash in A & P modes). I was shooting in manual mode as ever, flash sync speed set to 1/250*(auto fp) (also tried setting it to 1/250 but no luck). When I used shutter speeds above 1/60 the bottom of the photos became unevenly illuminated or even black (depending on aperture, ISO and strobe power). Strobes are configured to fire with only one pulse from the trigger (as I always use). Later, at home, I've tested the strobes again and oddly they function normally until 1/200 (but at 1/250 they show the black bar at the bottom of the picture). I also tried my Sea&Sea YS-D1 and they also work normally just until 1/200 (they could have had low batteries so I will repeat the tests, but the Subtronics had full battery in the beginning of the dive). Anyone has any idea why this strange behavior? Why did they only work until 1/60 underwater? What changes to make them able to work at 1/200 at the surface? Why do they not work at the surface at 1/250 at least? I've tried everything I could remember (Camera in Single shot mode, M mode, EFCS off or on, no shutter delay activated, several combinations of aperture and ISO...). The only thing that I've changed besides the new camera, housing and new led trigger is the fiber optic cables: i used to use a 3mm optic fiber cable custom made by me (which I didn´t like because they were always failing) and now I use Nauticam standard cables (they didn't work at all with my other led trigger and the Subtronics, although they always worked with the Sea&Sea and also some INON's Z240 that I don't have anymore - all the way up to 1/320 with the D800). Any help would be appreciated: you never know when you will be busy fiddling with your camera UW and that great white will finally appear and gracefully swim by your side,, :-) Thanks, Miguel
  4. Am I the only one who finds the ISO control in the Nikon D850 housing a major downgrade compared to previous housings? I understand why Nikon changed the MODE and ISO buttons because without the housing now is really easier to change your ISO while looking through the viewfinder, but underwater this is impossible for me. And even taking your eyes from the viewfinder it takes forever to change ISO, and I had to turn the option to just press buttons and then turn dials, because it's nearly impossible to press the ISO Button while scrolling with the rear command dial. ISO is "only" the setting I change the most so this is bothering me a lot. I tried to assign ISO to different buttons but it looks like this is not possible. The only workaround I did find is to assign ISO to the top item in My Menu and assigning this command to the FN2 button (which is the optimum placement of the ISO Button in the Nauticam housing, IMO), while choosing the option to scroll trough menus with the command dials, but using this method you have a final step to press OK or the center of the wheel selector to confirm ISO which is far from ideal. Anyone has problems with this or am I the only one? Did anyone found other solution for this problem? Miguel Pereira
  5. Is anyone considering these two heavyweights? If so, what's swaying you one way or the other? Personally I'm going for D500 as the price is indeed a factor, but crop underwater is not that bad of a thing. I love landscape photography but I can't justify that price-tag for the occasional full frame landscape shot. I'll probably end up compensating with a slightly wider lens on the D500.
  6. How exactly does a strobe setup work? I would like to purchase a Sea & Sea YS-D2 to go with my D850 and (prospectively) a Nauticam housing. The D850 doesn't have a built-in flash, so I would just hook up the YS-D2 to the D850? I want to use TTL, and would I need a TTL converter for this setup?
  7. Hello everyone! Getting started in underwater photography—I own the D850, and I have my eye set on the Nauticam housing and two Sea & Sea strobes. What wide-angle lens should I get? I want good glass - the D850 doesn't do too well with bad glass. Seems the overall consensus is that despite its topside performance, the Nikkor 14-24 isn't great underwater. Any suggestions would be really helpful! Also, suggestions for what lens dome to get with that lens for the Nauticam housing. Thanks, Max
  8. Available is a Nauticam Canon 1Dx Housing and NA-DP4 Monitor Housing. I switched to Nikon so if anyone has a D5 or D850 Housing to trade, please let me know. I also have extension tubes for 100mm macro and 16-35mm lenses but I believe those will work with Nikon lenses as well so I am not as eager to trade or sell the tubes. If a trade isn't possible, I will take offers.
  9. I've always felt that it was hard to get close to big animals like sharks and that more reach is required over something like a mid range zoom. Alex had talked about using a 60mm lens behind a dome for sharks and on a recent shark dive in Yap, I decided to try my old AF-D 60mm macro Nikkor on my D850 behind a Zen 170 dome and 70mm extension. I could of used a smaller extension, but it was what I had. The results were quite stunning, I felt. You do need clear conditions to have it work out though, but AF was fast and I had lots of range. The longer reach shortens up the background too. I also switched back and forth from FX to DX mode to see how that felt. I think it's probably more valuable for macro work with the 60 to get more DOF and will try that next week in Palau.
  10. Spent a week on the Nai'a and another 8 days at Qamea Resort near Taveuni. Shot the Nikon D850 in a Nauticam housing. I used the Sigma 15mm FE, Nikon 17-35 behind a Zen 170mm dome, as well as the Nikon 105mm VR macro. I'm still working on a TR, will post when it's available. But here's a few shots to whet your appetite. Underwater Album on Flickr
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