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Found 18 results

  1. Complete Nauticam D850 Setup For sale is a complete Nauticam D850 setup at 50% off retail. I’m the original purchaser of the all the items, and all were purchased as new 3 years ago of less. The exterior of housing and ports have minor scuffing form normal use and have never suffered a fall or accident. No scratches or damage to ports’ glass. No part of the system has ever experienced a leak or flood. The D850 was used only for underwater photography on an estimated 294 dives. Retail cost pre-tax is $16,335 and be offered for $8,168. The setup include: Nikon D850 Body, Shutter count 20,600. Nikon 8-15mm AF-S Fisheye, f/3.5-4.5 ED. Nikon 60mm AF-S Macro, f/2.8G ED. Nikon 105mm AF-S VR Macro, f/2.8G IF-ED Kenko HDPro 1.4x teleconverter. Nauticam NA-D850 Housing Nauticam N120 140mm glass fisheye port with removable shade. Nauticam N120 Macro Port 87 Nauticam N120 20mm extension ring with lock (used with 8-15mm) Nauticam N120 40mm extension ring with lock (used with 8-15mm and 1.4x teleconverter for further reach) Nauticam 180-degree viewfinder extender Nauticam zoom gears for 8-15mm with and with 1.4x teleconverter. Nauticam TTL Converter (currently installed in housing) Nauticam Manual Flash trigger (not installed and travels as spare) All Nauticam accessories—caps, bags, pump, cases If interested in stobes, arms, clamps and floats at similar 50% off retail, and as detailed below, is offered at $1000. Inon x 2, Z330 type2 strobes ULCS angled bal mounts, 5” ULCS x 2 arms 8” ULCS x 2 arms Six UW Jumbo Float Bouyancy Kit x2 Clamps x6 Optionally, S&S YS-D2J strobes for same price, instead of the Inon listed above. The Inon strobes work with the TTL option, but I have only used the S&S strobes in manual triggering. The gear is located in Los Angeles area and I welcome local sale for in-person inspection, and I'm happy to add more detailed pictures of any items. I hope to sell as package, but if no interest, I’ll starting listing items separately. Buyer to pay for shipping if required. Thanks for considering. Mike
  2. I am a landscape and underwater photographer, and have used the Nikon D850, since it came on the market. The camera immediately set itself apart with its large files, fast processor, high dynamic range, two card slots, and sturdy build. While nothing is wrong with the D850, I decided to embrace the new mirrorless revolution and purchased a Nikon Z7II. I've used it for almost a year now, and like that it is I smaller than the D850. Ergonomically speaking, the camera body naturally fits my hand, and it feels good. I love that camera body is weather sealed, as I work on, near, or underwater. After using both cameras for a year now I have concluded that for me, The D850 is better for underwater use and the Z7II, is better for landscape, people portraits, and night sky imaging. Let start with the what is better about the D850. It has no camera lag time. From the moment I press shutter half way down the camera is awake and I can make photographs. With the Z7II there is a noticeable lag time. The second or two it takes, could mean the difference between getting the whale in Frame or not. The second reason. is the shutter speed sync speed in regard to flash. The maximum on the Nikon D850 is 1/250th of a second and on the Z7II, it is 1/200th. It is a small difference but 1/250 blocks ambient from being recorded. The electronic view finder and monitor on the back, works different on the Z7II than the D850. This has to do with live view. With the D850, I used the view finder to compose and shoot, and the monitor on the back to review and check histograms. With the Z7II, I have the choice of using the electronic viewfinder or the monitor in the back to compose, shoot, and review. the electronic view finder and monitor on the back, works different than the D850. This has to do with live view. With the D850, I used the view finder to compose and shoot and when I wanted to review or check a histogram used the back monitor. The Z7II, shows live view in the monitor. That needs to be turned off prior. Here is why, the live view shows you the F-stop and Shutter speed. As underwater photographers typically use a shutter speed of 1/250th, 1/200, or 1/320th the live view is dark and the photographer cannot see the composition is shoots blind. To the left of the viewfinder on the Nikon Z7II is a button. Pressing it allows you to select the electronic view finder or back monitor. This took me hours to figure out as I thought controlling the monitor would be in one of the menus. My bad. It’s actually really easy to switch. Now, I can set the camera up to shoot and review in the electronic view finder. I find that this allows me to keep my head in position and not need to move to review images. So, if I need to change a setting other than strobe power, I can make the change and keep shooting. The less I move the better, as sometimes the subjects can be skittish and move. When I feel the need to see an image bigger I can press the monitor button and and see it on the back. There is one feature about the Nikon Z7II, which I really love. The camera will allow me to set a shutter speed as long as 15 minutes. That means no more bulb exposures. This is huge. I also like the dual processors as I can shoot fast and never till my buffer. In conclusion, I am not ready to say aloha to my D850, and am happy about my decision to take the leap and get a Z7II.
  3. Am I the only one who finds the ISO control in the Nikon D850 housing a major downgrade compared to previous housings? I understand why Nikon changed the MODE and ISO buttons because without the housing now is really easier to change your ISO while looking through the viewfinder, but underwater this is impossible for me. And even taking your eyes from the viewfinder it takes forever to change ISO, and I had to turn the option to just press buttons and then turn dials, because it's nearly impossible to press the ISO Button while scrolling with the rear command dial. ISO is "only" the setting I change the most so this is bothering me a lot. I tried to assign ISO to different buttons but it looks like this is not possible. The only workaround I did find is to assign ISO to the top item in My Menu and assigning this command to the FN2 button (which is the optimum placement of the ISO Button in the Nauticam housing, IMO), while choosing the option to scroll trough menus with the command dials, but using this method you have a final step to press OK or the center of the wheel selector to confirm ISO which is far from ideal. Anyone has problems with this or am I the only one? Did anyone found other solution for this problem? Miguel Pereira
  4. After being out of UW photography for 6 years and I want to put my Nikon D850 in a housing and get back into it. So my question to the brains trust is - what do you think is the best housing for a D850 and why? Just some back ground which may direct the answers a bit - I will don't envisage flying with this equipment because we are on a yacht and will be sailing to destinations so the size and weight of the housing etc is not some much of an issue. Like most people I will probably concentrate on macro and wide angle. I already have a Nikon 60mm macro lens and Nikon 16mm Fisheye lens. A good friend in Australia who uses Canon equipment suggest the Nauticam housings. He has 3 Nauticam housings with the oldest from 2006 and he said they have not failed him.
  5. Very much interested to hear from Nauticam D850 users on how the manage shooting photos and focusing if they do not have the enhanced optical view finders. Looking also at the housing manual it seems to me that one is unable to use the joy stick to move the focus point around, am I correct in assuming so and how does one compensate for this? What is the best way to manage the shooting using live view underwater, points of guidance, shortcuts, customization, and clarifications of pitfalls will be highly appreciated. Thank you
  6. I am selling a complete Nikon D850 system, a dream setup that includes everything you need to shoot professional quality images. I’d like to invite you to check out the work I was able to produce with this amazing camera: https://www.instagram.com/lorenzoballarinphoto/ Most of the equipment was purchased brand new in September 2019, all the items listed below are in excellent conditions, they have been looked after meticulously. The camera body is in like new conditions, it has never been used outside the housing. All lenses and dome are in perfect conditions, no scratches in front elements. I would love to sell the setup as a whole, but I will consider selling some items separately. Camera: Nikon D850 DSLR Lenses: Sigma 15mm f/2.8 EX DG Diagonal Fisheye Lens Nikon AF-S 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED VR Nikon AF-S 70-300mm f4.5-5.6 G IF VR Nikon AF-S 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 G DX VR II Nikon AF-S 55-200MM F/4-5.6G ED VR II Kenko 1.4X PRO 300 Teleconverter DGX Nikon AF Housing: Nauticam NA-D850 Housing for Nikon D850 (Integrated led flash trigger, vacuum system and leak detector, dual ball handled tray & dual mounting ball on housing, 2x vacuum pumps, Nauticam Allen key set) Ports & Extension rings: Nauticam N120 140mm Optical-Glass fisheye dome port with removable shade Nauticam N120 Macro Port 60 Nauticam Extension ring 30 with lock Nauticam Extension ring 20 with lock Strobes: 2x Sea & Sea YS-D2J 4x Fiber Optic Cables Arms: 2x Float arms 4x regular strobe arms 6x Nauticam clamps 2x strobe arm clamps 1x cold shoe ball mount (for macro port) Case: Pelican 1620 Case, to carry the whole setup, everything in this list fits inside the case. Extras: Sony 64GB XQD card 2x 64GB San Disk Extreme pro 300 mb/s Gorilla pod 2x Camera straps Nikon Battery Charger Nikon D850 battery 2x Eneloop Chargers 16x Eneloop Pro Batteries Aquatech hand strap Spare fiber optic connector Spare Vacuum plug Air Blower 5x Nauticam O-ring grease 4x Sea&Sea O-ring grease 5x CR2032 Batteries Spare Housing o-rings and Port o-rings Due to image size restrictions I can only upload a couple of pictures in the post, remaining photos of the items can be found here: https://www.flickr.com/gp/187905621@N03/F6Eo2p Items are located in Australia. Shipping charges and PayPal fees at buyer’s expense. Please feel free to ask questions or discuss individual prices. Asking price for the whole setup is 10,000 USD
  7. Available is a Nauticam Canon 1Dx Housing and NA-DP4 Monitor Housing. I switched to Nikon so if anyone has a D5 or D850 Housing to trade, please let me know. I also have extension tubes for 100mm macro and 16-35mm lenses but I believe those will work with Nikon lenses as well so I am not as eager to trade or sell the tubes. If a trade isn't possible, I will take offers.
  8. Very low miles ( more pics upon request) and never flooded Aquatica D850 housing w/ optical trigger. Includes, manual, spare back o-ring, handles, T-handle Allen key. NO PORTS 1995.00 plus shipping jcdovala@verizon.net
  9. Selling my Nikon-D850 rig, all the items listed bellow are in excellent conditions, always properly cared for and used very little. There is minimum signs of wear and tear (please refer to pictures). I'd like to sell as a package but I'll consider separating some of the items. The lenses are in amazing shape with no scratches in the from elements and produce very sharp images paired with my camera. The camera has around 5800 clicks and I have an extra battery and other items that came with it from the factory. I have and 64 GB XQD card that can be added if purchasing the whole package. The housing comes with the M16 Vacuum Valve installed. List of Items for sale: - Nikon D-850 (around 5800 clicks) - Nauticam NA-850 (with M16 Vacuum Valve) - Nauticam Acrylic Dome Port with shade and Neoprene Cover. - Nauticam Macro Port 87 - Nauticam Extension Ring 70 with lock - Nauticam Zoom Ring for Nikon 16-35 mm (N1635-Z ) - Inon 45 degree View finder with Nauticam adaptor - Sigma 15 mm f 2.8 ex dg Fe lens - Nikkor 105mm f2.8 VR macro lens - Nikkor 16-35 mm F.4 VR lens Contact me if you have any questions or for individual prices. Buyers responsible for shipping charges and Pay Pal fees. Asking for the whole package $ 8,500 USD.
  10. Used for one trip to Bali, in mint condition with carrying case. Offering for equivalent of $3,000 USD including tripod mounting plate, 3 Inon tripod leg extensions and 3 clamps. Single owner can verify purchase through Reef Photo Fort Lauderdale. I am located in Mumbai, but can ship anywhere. Shipping charges additional based on destination. Complete with Vacum seal/alarm and mini HDMI port for external monitor.
  11. Hi everyone, This is my first post here. I do a lot of dry-land photography and have been in the Nikon ecosystem for over 10 years with dslr's and a lot longer than that if you go back to film days. I've been lucky enough to visit St John, USVI 4 times. We are going back for our 5th trip in a few weeks. I don't dive (yet!) but I love to snorkel. I've taken cameras on each trip: waterproof point-n-shoot, go pro, Nikon 1AW, and last time we went I had the Sony RX100 III in a Fantasea housing. The upgrade in photo quality was very gratifying with that rig. I can go that way again but ... I have a Nikon D850 and the 16-35 f4 lens and I'm kind of dying to try out that combo underwater. I'm not made of money and I'm not getting any younger so I'm thinking about getting an Ikelite housing with the appropriate dome for the 16-35. Since I'll be snorkeling and therefore not going deep, my thought was to just go with the housing for this trip and not try to figure out strobes just yet. The Sony is capable of capturing decent UW photos without strobes so the D850 ought to do even better with its superior focusing ability and superior handling of ISO. Does this sound like a reasonable approach? If there is a flaw in my thinking I'd appreciate hearing about it. Thanks in advance!!
  12. I have two TTL converters for the Nauticam D850 and they are horrible. 90 percent are way under exposed. I am shooting all manual now on my macro work. They are essentially costly, useless electronics. In the most basic, close up, nudibranch simple shots one can do, the TTL fails miserably, significantly under exposes. Someone has to call out Nauticam for this. In my opinion they are selling an inferior product. When you compare the converter to my old system, a Nauticam D7100 system with fiber optic, nearly 90 percent accurate exposure. Granted the D7100 is using the cameras TTL system, but you would think that the engineers at Nauticam, who I consider very good at what they do, would have done more field testing before launching the board. Where I bought my housing, they could not get the first circuit board to function with TTL. They had to order another one, which worked topside. But until you actually put this in the field, underwater, will you recognize its inferiority for such a high end system. Really disappointed. Here is one image where TTL would not properly light the subject. Simple, easy. Ended up using manual. Strobes pointed close within 8-12 inches and directly at the subject. Could not have had easier situations for the TTL to function properly. Will post some additional examples in a bit after my dive of images that the ttl would not work...well not in any case has the ttl actually worked. Joe
  13. Hi, I have been using my Subtronic PRO160 strobes (optic fiber) and Sea&Sea YS-D1 with a Nikon D800 successfully up to shutter speeds of 1/320 (always with optic fiber using a manual led trigger that I installed in a Nauticam Housing, with camera flash sync speed set to 1/320 auto-fp). I've upgraded my camera to a Nikon D850 in a Nauticam housing with Nauticam's manual led trigger installed as default. Yesterday I've tried my Subtronic's PRO160 UW for the first and they only were able to successfully light each photo if I used shutter speeds below 1/60 (the camera configured slower speed to use with flash in A & P modes). I was shooting in manual mode as ever, flash sync speed set to 1/250*(auto fp) (also tried setting it to 1/250 but no luck). When I used shutter speeds above 1/60 the bottom of the photos became unevenly illuminated or even black (depending on aperture, ISO and strobe power). Strobes are configured to fire with only one pulse from the trigger (as I always use). Later, at home, I've tested the strobes again and oddly they function normally until 1/200 (but at 1/250 they show the black bar at the bottom of the picture). I also tried my Sea&Sea YS-D1 and they also work normally just until 1/200 (they could have had low batteries so I will repeat the tests, but the Subtronics had full battery in the beginning of the dive). Anyone has any idea why this strange behavior? Why did they only work until 1/60 underwater? What changes to make them able to work at 1/200 at the surface? Why do they not work at the surface at 1/250 at least? I've tried everything I could remember (Camera in Single shot mode, M mode, EFCS off or on, no shutter delay activated, several combinations of aperture and ISO...). The only thing that I've changed besides the new camera, housing and new led trigger is the fiber optic cables: i used to use a 3mm optic fiber cable custom made by me (which I didn´t like because they were always failing) and now I use Nauticam standard cables (they didn't work at all with my other led trigger and the Subtronics, although they always worked with the Sea&Sea and also some INON's Z240 that I don't have anymore - all the way up to 1/320 with the D800). Any help would be appreciated: you never know when you will be busy fiddling with your camera UW and that great white will finally appear and gracefully swim by your side,, :-) Thanks, Miguel
  14. Is anyone considering these two heavyweights? If so, what's swaying you one way or the other? Personally I'm going for D500 as the price is indeed a factor, but crop underwater is not that bad of a thing. I love landscape photography but I can't justify that price-tag for the occasional full frame landscape shot. I'll probably end up compensating with a slightly wider lens on the D500.
  15. How exactly does a strobe setup work? I would like to purchase a Sea & Sea YS-D2 to go with my D850 and (prospectively) a Nauticam housing. The D850 doesn't have a built-in flash, so I would just hook up the YS-D2 to the D850? I want to use TTL, and would I need a TTL converter for this setup?
  16. Hello everyone! Getting started in underwater photography—I own the D850, and I have my eye set on the Nauticam housing and two Sea & Sea strobes. What wide-angle lens should I get? I want good glass - the D850 doesn't do too well with bad glass. Seems the overall consensus is that despite its topside performance, the Nikkor 14-24 isn't great underwater. Any suggestions would be really helpful! Also, suggestions for what lens dome to get with that lens for the Nauticam housing. Thanks, Max
  17. I've always felt that it was hard to get close to big animals like sharks and that more reach is required over something like a mid range zoom. Alex had talked about using a 60mm lens behind a dome for sharks and on a recent shark dive in Yap, I decided to try my old AF-D 60mm macro Nikkor on my D850 behind a Zen 170 dome and 70mm extension. I could of used a smaller extension, but it was what I had. The results were quite stunning, I felt. You do need clear conditions to have it work out though, but AF was fast and I had lots of range. The longer reach shortens up the background too. I also switched back and forth from FX to DX mode to see how that felt. I think it's probably more valuable for macro work with the 60 to get more DOF and will try that next week in Palau.
  18. Spent a week on the Nai'a and another 8 days at Qamea Resort near Taveuni. Shot the Nikon D850 in a Nauticam housing. I used the Sigma 15mm FE, Nikon 17-35 behind a Zen 170mm dome, as well as the Nikon 105mm VR macro. I'm still working on a TR, will post when it's available. But here's a few shots to whet your appetite. Underwater Album on Flickr
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