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I own a Nikon D500 with a Hugyfot housing. I currently use only the Tokina fisheye with it underwater, but I want to also shoot some Macro with the Nikon 40mm f2.8 DX lens. Unfortunately, Hugyfot has a bit of an incomplete port chart and this is one of the lenses missing. This lens is a bit smaller (5mm shorter and thinner) than the Canon EF-S60mm f2.8 for which they advice a FLP L70 flat port, but unlike the Canon lens, the Nikon lens extends when close focusing (by 2cm) Does anyone have experience using this lens on a Hugyfot house and can you tell me what port used. In general, what is the optimal distance between the front element of the lens and the glass of the flat port? As close as possible or is there some gain in having a bit more space?

Hi all, I've had my Nikon D7000 Seacam rig since 2013 haven't reviewed for a new setup for a few years, I mostly dive in Scotland from the Club Rhib / shore diving. Upgraded from optical flash cables (Constantly having to replace) to S6 Connectors, Purchased the Seacam 45 degree viewfinder to help get the camera under the subject. (Water Clarity and Backscatter are key factors) Currently use the: Tokina 10-17 Fisheye with a Wide Port with anti-reflective coating (140mm Diameter) - 25mm Extension ring - if I open up to 10mm I can see the Sun shades in the final image. For Macro - 60mm Nikon F2.8 ED standard flat port. - super sharp and some times use for fish behind the Dome Port. 2 * Z240 MK4 Strobes - S6 connections & Greenforce Hepastar for lighting I have Sigma sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6 HSM for Land and Nikon 20mm F2.8, Nikon F1.8 35mm DX (Just bought) - which have been used occasionally underwater. I'm interested in Wide angle shots of Wrecks, Walls, Geological Features and getting better pictures of skittish fish - Cod, Ling etc. at depth 25 -35 metres ( I have been diving on a AP Rebreather for the last two years) getting auto focus and lighting right is an issue. After upgrading from the Olympus C5050 to the D7000 have benefited from the increased dynamic range and also improved autofocus for Macro. At the moment looking at my photographs, the low light noise on the sensor vs the loss in quality of the images on the edges (Dome Port Optics) is about the right balance. Thinking about what tweaks I can make - obviously big jumps are the Nikon D500 or Nikon FX which require a large investment for 5% - 10% improvement in quality? Other lenses that I've seen talked about are the Nikon 8-15mm Fisheye, Sigma 17-70 Macro, Nikon 105 or 85mm DX Macro Lenses? Seacam do other Dome Ports - Fisheye Port 160mm, Compact Port 170mm or Superdome 240mm Would be good to get feedback from other Nikon and Nikon Seacam Photographers on what combinations has worked well for them. Thanks Paul

There's been some discussion of late of various combinations of lenses with a Kenko 1.4TC: what works, what doesn't. I've got both the Kenko 1.4TC DG and DGX models, a Nikon D500, a Z6, the Tokina 10-17 and the Nikkor 8-15. I thought Wetpixelers might find it useful to see the results of the various combinations. What works is in bold. D500 (DX) D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Tokina 10-17: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Tokina 10-17: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Nikkor 8-15: Err message. No AF; no vignetting at any focal length D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Nikkor 8-15: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length Nikon Z6 (and, presumably Z7) with firmware 3.0 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Nikkor 8-15: AF works; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Nikkor 8-15: No AF; No aperture readout; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Tokina 10-17 : No AF; aperture read out; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Tokina 10-17 : No AF; No aperture read out; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Conclusion a. If you want to use the Kenko with a Tokina 10-17 on a D500 no problem with the DG or DGX model b. If you want to use the Kenko with a Nikkor 8-15 on a D500, you need the DGX model c. If you want to use the Kenko with a Nikkor 8-15 on a Z6/Z7 you need the DG model d. Forget trying to use either the Kenko DG or DGX with a Tokina 10-17 on the Z6/Z7 (well why would you anyway) I don't have the Kenko HD model so can't comment on that but perhaps if someone has, they could add the data for that. Hope this helps, guys Tim

Have. a bunch of lenses in really good shape that are up for grabs. Following lenses are in "like new" condition Following lenses are in "like new" condition: Nikon nikkor 12-24mm f/4G ED DX lens in box with caps, bag, and hood asking $450 - Nikon Nikkor 10.5mm f2.8 G ed DX fisheye lens in box, with bag and lens caps. - asking $275 Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4.5 dc macro HCM AF lens for nikon aps-c sensor in box with caps and hood asking $175 Nikon AF-S 18-200 f/3.5-5.6 G ED lens (the first version), with caps and bag - asking $175 ============= The following lens is new in the box - has never been on the camera: Tokina 35mm F/2.8 AT-X Pro DX Macro Autofocus Lens For Nikon APS-C in box , with both caps asking $150 ========== following lens is an oldie but goodie, and has been taken on and off the camera a lot of times. It is in really good shape. AF 105 micro-nikkor F/2.8 with lens caps asking $250 ========== All of the above lenses are "one owner" ======= following lens has some type of AF issue and needs repair. Potential cost of repair is unknown. Two owners of this lens. Nikon 17-35mm f/2.8 D ED IF af-s in box with case, caps and hood - $325 ========== pictures available. - would prefer to ship these items within the continental US contact info follows: l.johnson@stephenfrink.com. 305-451-3737

Just having returned from a couple of excellent weeks diving in Bonaire, I wanted to share a couple of thoughts: First - Big Thanks. I had a couple of "issues" with my camera gear during the trip. Post to Wetpixel and PMs were answered really quickly and helpfully by a raft of people. While not wanting to embarrass anyone - or miss anyone too - thanks especially to Chris, Tom, Pavel and Oskar at Retra for advice on a range of diverse issues. You guys are brilliant and kept me relatively calm and relatively sane. Excellent advice, quick replies, thoughtful ideas..... I have written this before, but I really do think think Wetpixel is an excellent community. Folks are so good to share their advice, experience and knowledge freely and helpfully. And, even better, WP seems to suffer with almost none of the utter cr*p and abuse that seems to ruin so many other forums (check out the BBC football (soccer) Have Your Say site!). Moving on (and again, apologies if I have't thanked anyone who chipped in)..... Like many on the forum I've gone from DX cameras (Nikon D100, D200, D300) to FX (D800) and have now done about 100 dives back on DX with a D500. Some conclusions which I thought worth passing on: FX vs DX - DX setups are slightly cheaper: a DX body costs less than an FX. - DOF is better on DX which is especially helpful on macro. - Though I was concerned that moving back to DX I would miss much of the image quality that I had on the D800, this has proved not to be the case. D500 DX is excellent. I must admit I don't make mega-prints and a lot of my output I (try) sell via agencies. No problems getting images accepted following the switch. I can't speak of course for the D850. - DX is easier on the WA port issue. I really liked the Sigma 15mm and the Nikkor 16-35 for the D800. The Sigma was easy to "port" but the 16-35 was, in my view, a bit of a devil requiring a 230mm huge dome port. (I've never tried though the Sea and Sea converter). That port was expensive and, for me, hard for travelling on European baggage allowances. By contrast the DX only needs either a 100 dome port or the DP-FE size. - The Nikkor 8-15mm works really well on DX between 15 and approx 11. Image quality is great. It works equally well with the DP100 or DP-FE - I'm still playing around with a 1.4 TC and, as I have reported elsewhere, I've found that the classic Kenko 1.4 DG Telepro300 won't work with my D500 and the 8-15. It does work with my Z6 but not on a D5. Go figure. As you might have read elsewhere and as others have confirmed, the Kenko 1.4 TC DGX will work. I'll get hold of one soon and try it. Bonaire - If you are thinking of diving Bonaire: I've been going since the early 2000s and found the reef this time around in the best health I have seen for some years. Definite signs of coral growth; work by the local agency, SINAPA, at coral growing; new anemones around with Spotted Cleaner Shrimps on them (not seen them for years) and, generally, reefs with clouds of brown chromis and the usual suspects going about their lives. - Snooting: if you fancy a stab at shooting, Bonaire is great place to try it out with lots of macro life. I say "stab" meaning I would encourage folks not to stab themselves in frustration over snooting. UW photog is tough enough dealing with moving critters, moving camera, moving photographer, moving currents, viz, blah blah. Snooting adds a whole new area of pain. But when you get it right... Sweeeeet.... a couple of pics attached. - We did all shore diving with tanks from Dive Friends. Friendly, very convenient with filling stations all over the west side of Bonaire. I can recommend them. We didn't do any boat dives. We never used DMs or guides. Navigation on Bonaire is easy - and the critters are not hard to find. Pedersen cleaner shrimps, Spotted Cleaner Shrimps, Yellowline Arrowcrabs, Gobies, the occasional whip coral shrimp, drums, jawfish..... Well just some thoughts

Is anyone considering these two heavyweights? If so, what's swaying you one way or the other? Personally I'm going for D500 as the price is indeed a factor, but crop underwater is not that bad of a thing. I love landscape photography but I can't justify that price-tag for the occasional full frame landscape shot. I'll probably end up compensating with a slightly wider lens on the D500.

Dear Wetpixel I actually didn't plan to upgrade from this Nikon D300 setup yet, but a trip to the dark North during Winter (no sunlight) forced me to upgrade to more sensitivity - so for sale is: Hugyfot housing for Nikon D300 - completely serviced end of 2016 including change of electronics (without TTL-converter). CNC-machined aluminium housing with two electrical flash sockets (5-pin Nikonos), Huge-Check vacuum system. I bought the house November 2008. Included: spare O-rings, pump, tools, manual. Nikon D300 camera for sale can be included. The cameras shutter-count is 35.500 - estimated life-time is 150.000. Included: Two batteries, charger, strap, two 8GB and one 16GB card, all paperwork and manual and original software. Please note: There are no ports, arms, flash, flash cables or lenses included. In my opinion this is a great way to start shooting DSLR in a (fairly) cheap way, as long as you think you will be using Nikon and Hugyfot in the future, so you can reuse the lenses and ports, which you will need to buy. Total price (housing and camera): 1.500€ - or give your best bid :-) Price (housing only): 1.200€ - or give your best bid :-)

With the arrival of the highly rated Nikon D500, I wondered if anyone has experience of moving from full frame (FX) to - or back to - DX? Any D800 or D810 users out there who have moved to a D500? I'm interested in what you think about it. I found the move from the D300 to the D800 amazing in terms of resolution, crop-ability and the richness of colours. I wondered how much - if anything - you might lose moving from a D8xx to the D500 - other than the massive, croppable files. Folks using a D500 underwater, are you delighted with it? Just happy? Or so-so? Or hate it??! Thanks!

I have been shooting my D500 in a Aquatica AD500 housing for a week and I have to say I am impressed with both the camera and the housings performance. Previously I have been shooting with a Nikon D7000 in an Aquatica and have been waiting like a lot of people for a replacement and when I saw the specs of this camera I pre-ordered both the camera and housing straight away. Camera arrived first and first thing I wanted to play with was the 10fps on land based wildlife and surfers and this is where I found that one requires XQD2 cards to be able to achieve 10fps for 200 shots. Fast SD cards were only able to shoot 15 or so frames before the buffer became bogged down but once I recieved the Lexar PRO XGD2 card it was awesome to be able to shoot 10fps for total of 200 shots (this is only in RAW) if you shoot RAW with JPG the buffer only holds 75 shots (something to think about if your like me who likes to shoot both RAW and JPG at the same time). AF on land as everyone has also reported is fast and very accurate. I also had an issue with the D500 raw (NEF) files not compatable with PS CS6 and I had to convert the files to DNG with a free adobe RAW to DNG converter. Last week my Aquatica AD500 housing arrived and straight away I compared it with my Aquaitca AD7000 housing and sure enough the housing is phyiscally bigger to fit the bigger D500 body. Actually the larger size of the housing is of benefit as rear view screen is slight larger and the Aquaview viewfinder doesnt get in the way as much like it did for the Nikon D7000. I noticed a few improvements to the Aquatica AD7000 with a change in design for the port lock, control dial pullies changed from plastic to machine alloy, reduction of C-clips on control buttons and over all easy access to control buttons if one requires a field service. A big improvement is the design of the switch for video which was an issue on the AD7000 as video lever of the D7000 was on a spring style setup and after alot of use became sticky on the camera body itself. Right hand side control buttons on the AD500 are accessable with a single hand and a well thought out ISO button which has lever which runs close to the right hand grip for easy ISO change. Adition of Aquatica's Surveyor moisture and vacuum sensor and vacuum valve is one of the best investments which was aded to my AD500. Vacuum systems are a must in my opinion and have saved me on a few occasions from a fatal flood. The housing has its own little window where you can monitor the system during the dive and it assuring to see the light green light blinking away during the dive telling you everything is all well. Having a housing machined out of a single block of alloy and having all the control buttons made of metal was the reason why I continued to use Aquatica as I honestly I rack up several hundred dives on my housings. The first dive with my D500 I noticed straight away that the AD500 housing was a fraction lighter underwater than my AD7000 setup (I use the 8 inch dome, Aquaview viewfinder, 2x Ikelites DS161, ULCS bouyancy arms 6/9inch with Aquaitca arm clamps) which I was surprised as the housing is phyiscally bigger. It also took me a while to get familiar with the location of the control buttons as you would expect with a new camera. The moving of the OK button to the left hand side controls took a little while to get used to as well as the record button now on a control lever on the right hand side. One thing I did notice was during review on the rear screen of the D500 after each shot showed my images were darker than I what I was expecting (compared to the D7000) and first few dives had me adjusting the ISO and shutter speed but when it came to post processing on the big screen the shots were significately brighter to start with. Luckly the D500 has an adjustable brightness for the rear screen. Another great feature with the D500 is in video mode the camera has dedicated settings for video, which once set you can move back to stills without having to change settings. The liveview screen when shooting video also corrispondes to actual settings you have at the time, so for example when your ISO is too low in darker conditions your viewview screen will be dark and you can actually see the screen brighten with the adjustment of the ISO. This wasnt a feature on the D7000 where you had to guess which was the best ISO to shoot at. Having a dedicated video setting is great for shooting video on the fly and cant wait to play with it more in the near future. First dives on the AD500 were with the Tokina 10-17mm behind a 8 inch Aquatica dome with Dual Ikelite DS161. This setup is main setup as I mainly shoot large anmals and rarely move of 10mm. I used AF-S and first few dives I used single point AF area mode as this was the most successful setup when I used the Tokina 10-17mm with the D7000. How ever I did end up missing some real close up shots of a large Loggerhead Turtles as they were too close and shooting with one hand outstretched. The single centre point locked onto the animals neck and its head was slightly out of focus. I have since tried the Group AF area and this gave a large area to get a good focus on especially on big animals up close. As always with a new camera you start off with what work with previous model and then play the trail and error game to see what actually works and what doesnt. I will add in following post some unedited jpgs staight from the camera to give everyone an actual idea of what the Nikon D500 can actually produce. I will try and post some macro in the near future but the wide angle diving here at home is excellent at the moment and its hard to shoot macro when you have sharks and big animals right in front of you. Regards Mark

Hi. I have done the first tests underwater with the new Nikon D500 DX camera but mainly to get it to work inside my Sea&Sea D810 housing. So far I can use Aperture, Shutter, AF-On, on/off and take pictures. I had the menu button, multi selector (only up) and ok button working to but was pretty useless as you need multi selector (right) to work to make settings. The second reson for my test was to figure out what port combo that would work best with the Nikon 10,5mm @ f4 I tested the following domes and best one starting from the top and worst one at the bottom: Sea & Sea fisheye port 230mm Zen dome Sea & Sea optical port with 20mm extension ring (a little vignetting). Sea & Sea optical port I will do real dark water shooting during the next 4 days and I will keep you posted on how the new D500 handles in those conditions. So far what I have seen in the pool is that the DX D500 will give me a ton of better corner sharpness compared to my FX D810 witch was expected. kind regards // Alex

As NEW Tokina 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 AT-X 107 DX AF Fisheye Lens for Nikon mount. It's $549 new anywhere, this lens is LIKE NEW. You can see by the images that this lens is in pristine condition. This essential lens is a must have for any Nikon DX camera. $400 This lens gives the digital photographer an approximate 180° field of view with dramatic curvature of field or “fish-eye” effect. With this lens an entire view or vista can be captured, wider than the human eye can see. The AT-X 107 opens an entirely new dimension of photography. Unlike other fish-lenses, the AT-X 107 DX gives a full corner-to-corner image. The front element of the AT-X 107 DX has a newly formulated WR or “Water Repellent" optical coating on the glass. This new coating makes marks such as spots left by water or finger-prints much easier to clean than standard multi-coating.** The rear optical group of the lens contains 1 SD (Super-Low Dispersion) glass element to reduce the number of elements (pieces of glass) in the optical design in order to make the lens more compact, light-weight and faster focusing. This lens is designed to work with cameras that have an APS-C sized sensor only. This lens will sell fast! PayPal payment preferred. Whatever method of shipping you would like would be additional. *Contact me if you have any questions regarding this awesome lens. Located in West Palm Beach, FL *****I have a Sea and Sea Zoom Gear for this lens as well, will also fit the Canon 16-35mm F/2.8L***** The zoom gear new is $219 everywhere, it's like NEW. I'll sell it for $150 and if purchased with the lens $100. It's a zoom gear, new/used same thing. Save yourself some money $$$$ This is an expensive hobby we have, go ahead pull the trigger! $500 together or $400 and $150 separate.