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Found 11 results

  1. Hello everyone I've been a recreational diver for the past six years. I live in Finland where there is not much to see while diving so I only do it on longer vacations once every one or two years. I have been building my own underwater housing for my cameras for ten years now. I'm not much of a photographer, instead my interest in building housings comes more from an engineering viewpoint. The success with the DIY housings (4 by now) has been mixed during the past years but by now I have only destroyed one camera partly. On the other hand not one of the housings has been completely leak proof. Anyway, the housings have been evolving to more and more professional level by the years and now I thought it is time to share the current project with all of you as I have found only a very limited number of other DIY housing projects in internet. Maybe it's because everyone else values their time and gear too much to spend hundreds of hours of time in order to make a housing which implodes in 30 meters... As a reference below is a picture of my previous DIY housing which is for Olympus E-PL2 with 20mm Panasonic pancake lens. The body of the housing is machined from a solid block of aluminum and the port is turned also of aluminum and attached with screws to the body. Front lens is acrylic and the back cover is 10 mm thick polycarbonate. This housing was made two years ago for a 3 month trip to Central America. There were problems with the back cover as the polycarbonate developed cracks around some threads. This may have been caused by the ethanol I used to clean oil from the polycarbonate. The 10mm thickness also was not enough for deep dives as the back cover bended visibly. Therefore I used the housing mainly for snorkling and for that it functioned pretty well. Currently I am designing a housing for my E-M5 which I'm planning to use with Samyang 7.5 mm fisheye lens. Me and my girlfriend are leaving to the Philippines at the end of this month so I am starting to be pretty low on time to finish the project. The structure of t he housing is basically the same as that of the E-PL2 housing, however, it will have a dome port, hopefully better ergonomics and I dare to hope that this housing will finally be leak free. Below are two images from the CAD model in its current state. I guess I will have to finalize the CAD model during the next weekend in order to start machining the parts next week. I am planning also to print a 3D model of the housing to test the ergonomics before I start machining it. We'll see if I can make that happen. Oh, in case you are wondering how I get to use such nice tools as 3D printers and CNC machines, the answer is that I work at the machine design department of the largest university in Finland. There are still a couple of problems to solve with the housing design. First would be how to attach the dome to the port. The dome is separated from an Ikelite 5503.15 dome port which was leaking from the glue seams between the plastic parts. I was planning to use an o-ring between the dome and the aluminum port but then there was the problem on how to press the dome against the o-ring. Also, I was worried that the dome might develop cracks when the pressure presses it against the aluminum. Therefore, I decided that it might be the best option to just glue the dome to the port with epoxy. This will make it leakproof and the glue also should distribute the surface pressure between the dome and the port evenly. The downside is that when the dome is glue, it can't be removed. Another, still unsolved problem is the trigger button. As you can see in the image of the CAD model, it is still unfinished. If it is located above the trigger button of the E-M5 it will be quite far from the left side of the housing and my (short) index finger will not reach it easily. Therefore the button should be moved to the left somehow. The commercial housings have nice lever systems for the trigger but I'm afraid they will be difficult to manufacture in a DIY project. I would be glad if you could give me some ideas on how to solve this. I will add more pictures and info later about the current state of the project and of course add pics when I start machining the parts. Now I will unfortunately have to start doing the work I get paid for.
  2. Hi all, I am not all too happy with my A6000 underwater (low light focusing issues...) and am thinking about trying an Olympus om-d. I believe a e-m1 ii system is out of my price range, and therefore I would be most interested in an e-m1, e-m5 or possibly e-m5 ii system. I have used cheap housings with a range of compact and mirrorless cameras and am not in need of the most expensive housing option out there (but do consider any offer). However, I would like to use both wide angle and macro lenses and therefore I would prefer a housing that allows the use of different dry ports. If you have a housing or complete system that might fit for me, please let me know. Cheers, Lars
  3. Price: $595.00 Payment method: PayPal Item condition: 9+ Shows little or no signs of wear Shipping instructions: CONUS ONLY via USPS Priority Mail Mint Condition. Very little use and works/focuses perfectly. Glass is flawless. No Case, but box, caps and Instruction book included. BIG BONUS >>> I have added the "Olympus Modification." This is the addition of a filter holder (from the Panny 8mm Fisheye), to the rear of the lens in order to add a gel filter. This helps eliminate the occasional, known issue of purple fringing or purple blobs when used on some OLY cameras. (Not an issue on Panny cameras) The holder and filter are visible in the photos and obviously, you can insert or remove the filters easily. Right now I have the Kodak Wratten 2E Filter inserted, which is a slight bit too yellow, but can be corrected for. The recommended filter is the 2A. A bit hard to find, but often available on eBay or other forums. Great Lens, but I decided to get the OLY f/2.8 7-14 instead. If you want more info on the purple fringing problem, and how well the filter works, you can read this: http://alanwatsonforster.org/writing/mft-purple.html
  4. Quick question - Just jumped into my first U/W camera setup after finding a very cheap PT-EP08 for my "backup" camera the E-M5. (I also have the E-M1, but not ready to dunk that just yet). I decided to take a shot on the Z-240 from a Japanese dealer on eBay. Just realized though that I have no idea what kind of cable will be required to connect these two. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? Thanks!!
  5. I am selling my gently used E-M5, Nauticam housing, Flextray and M16 Vacuum valve kit. I am selling this because I am upgrading. I want to sell the camera and housing together but will sell the arms/trays and vacuum valve kit separately. Olympus E-M5 camera and Nauticam housing new price was $2,300 ($650 camera, 1450 housing and 200 for the vacuum electronics upgrade). I am keeping all my lenses and ports so please note the package only includes camera body and housing. This is a great camera and has taken some fab pictures. The housing leek detector has been upgraded to include the vacuum electronics - this was done by Reef Photo. I have been using the vacuum diving and would not go back to a housing without it. The housing is in very good shape - some of the white lettering paint has started to wear off and there are four small scuffs on the viewer on the back. The housing has never been flooded. Nauticam Flextray adjustable arms and tray (includes ball mounts) new ~$200 - some of the paint has come off by the rubber bands on the balls - see picture. Both arms can be adjusted to move in or out. M16 Vacuum valve kit - valve, pump and wrench = new $220 - this has been on the housing and has been used. Prices: Complete package (new ~$2,720) - camera, housing, tray and vacuum kit - $1,700 Camera & housing (new ~$2,100) - $1,500 Nauticam Flextray (new ~$200) - $125 M16 Vacuum kit (new $220) - $180 I prefer PayPal, buyer will pay for insurance and shipping - preference to sell entire kit.
  6. Hi! A c-clip that clips onto the "Function 2" button shaft which holds a plastic end piece in my Nauticam NA-EM5 housing has been lost. Is there any easier way to replace this other than send the housing to Reef Photo in Florida (I'm in Los Angeles)? Would Nauticam distributers have extras? I was thinking about going to a hobby shop to look for a c-clip that is the same size. Would anyone know the size of this particular one? Anyone else lose one of these? Thanks! Jason
  7. Hi all, I'm looking to get started in underwater photography, and I'd like to buy an Olympus E-M5 housing with strobes etc, preferably as a package with the camera and at least a wide angle lens. I'm interested in either Nauticam (preferably, from what I read on here?) or Olympus housing (or others), depending on the cost... Anyone have one they'd like to sell? I'm in Australia. I may also be interested in an Olympus E-M10 or E-M1 instead, but I'm guessing there aren't too many of them floating around second hand yet... Thanks, Pete
  8. Hi, I just got a Olympus OM-D E-M5 with a Nauticam housing, Panasonic 8mm fisheye, Olympus 60mm macro lens. Firmware body 1.6. My buttons/settings are configured same as: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=48625 I've only dived with this setup about 10 times and 2 times my camera stopped working underwater. I shoot in Manual Mode. When the camera stops working, it doesn't respond to any button pushes except the LV button (changes from EVF to Monitor). Main dial and Sub-dial still changes Aperture and Shutter. Shutter release does nothing and I can't even turn off the camera. Camera EVF/Monitor stays on until camera runs out of battery; it doesn't fall asleep. Camera displays live image. The flash (lightning bolt) and focus confirmation (green dot) icons in the EVF/Monitor are stuck on. When I remove the battery and put it back in the camera works again. Anyone else have this problem? No floods or leaks and my depth was around 30m deep. I notice this happening usually when I focus then try to take a picture. This problem has happened using both the Panasonic 8mm fisheye and Olympus 60mm macro lenses. Anyone else have this problem or know of a solution?
  9. Hi everyone, I used my Olympus C-8080 with original Oylmpus housing for almost 7 years. I bought the first housing brand new and then during a boat trip housing tripped down from a table and I found another one from e-bay but that one broke last year too. I have bought a Nikon D90 a couple of years ago thinking I may buy a housing for it later and have a better setup. Now that I have no working underwater gear, it is time to make a decison. At the beggining I was very convinced to use my DSLR but now looking at new cameras, cost of buying Hugyfot with all the necessary ports, trays, arms, a new strobe, etc and also thinking about how versatile my C-8080 was underwater even without any diopters or WA wet lenses, I am a bit confused. I read almost all comments about the Olympus OM-D E-M5 + Nauticam + 12-50mm setup in this forum and then I made some calculations and it seems to be a very attaractive option not only by means of price but also by means of versatility. I already have : ------------------- Nikon D90 Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye Inon Z-220 Anything else from my old setup is not usable anymore. The two options I ended up with are: Olympus OM-D E-M5 + Nauticam: ------------------------------------------------ Nauticam NA-EM5 housing for Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus OM-D E-M5 + 12-50mm Lens Nauticam 71206 Easitray II with left handle Nauticam 71208 Adjustable Right Handle II Nauticam 72203 125mm double ball arm Nauticam 72204 200mm double ball arm Standard clamp 72501 Nauticam 25111 Strobe Mounting ball Nauticam 25312 Light Mounting Stem for cold shoe INON Z-240 S-TTL underwater strobe 26211 Nauticam to Inon optical fiber cable ?????? D&D NA-EM5 Olympus M.Zuiko 12-50mm F3.5-6.3 EZ Zoom Gear Nauticam Macro port 65 for Olympus 60mm Macro [36163] SubSee +10 diopter (macrolens) [sS-10] Nikon D90 + Hugyfot: ------------------------------------- Hugyfot Housing Nikon D90 Flat port Acrylic FLK-6.607 Extension ring 20 mm Gearring GEA-6.573 Fisheye Port Acrylic FEK-6.608 Gearring GEA-6.511 Silicon gear SIL-6.500 Heinrichs i-TTL circuit board for Nikon Handle Small with armball 45 degrees Viewfinder Flash connection 5-pin Flash connection 5-pin INON Z-240 S-TTL underwater strobe INON S&S Synch Cord N INON S&S Synch Cord N 105mm f/2.8G AF-S VR Micro I know that they are hard to compare but I just want to be sure before spending so much money on either setup. I like shooting Macro more then wide angle, but I also feel like I will miss the versatility of my good old C-8080 which allowed me to take quite nice "Super Macro" pictures and also gives the option of going for bigger critters. By the way the price difference between these two is around 1.5K EUR Olympus+Nauticam being the cheaper. So I would be very happy to hear any comments from you guys. Thanks
  10. Greetings everyone, Looking to buy the Nauticam housing for E-M5 as well as ports and strobes/tray/arms. Preferably two YS-D1 and ULCS hardware. Contact me if you have the above - thank you. Cheers, Alex
  11. Hey there, After all the readings, I was going to order my Nikon D7000 and the Ikelite housing for it. I currently own a DS160 and 161 strobe as I was going to upgrade from my canon G9.... I know that the OM-D is not a DSLR, but from the readings that I did, it looks like the OM-D is not a bad camera at all and very similar to the D7000. If I consider the setup price, they both are about the same for the camera, lenses and housing (Nauticam for OMD). If I'd go for the OMD, I would have sell my Ikelite strobes and buy 2 Z240, giving me a lighter setup. Just wondering what your thoughts the quality of the D7000 over the OMD. Cheers and thanks for all the great help. Ben
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