Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Leak Sentinel'.
Found 4 results
Selling my Vivid Leak Sentinel V5 (for Nauticam M16 Bulkheads). Only used for a single week of diving, so it's in fantastic, barely-used condition. You won't find a cleaner one used. This thing just takes all of the stress out of heading beneath the waves with thousands upon thousands of dollars worth of equipment. The vacuum seal let's you know that your housing is safely sealed up, and you have the bright, flashing LED indicators to warn you if anything goes awry. It just makes everything so much more relaxed. Which in-turn reduces your air consumption. Which in-turn increases your dive time! Comes with the Leak Sentinel v5 and the Vivid Sentinel manual vacuum pump. Selling for $365 AUD / $250 USD + shipping Located in Melbourne, Australia, but happy to ship worldwide. Cheers, Mark
A recent post about problems with the Vivid Leak Sentinel (LS) "V5" had me scooting to the Vivid website as I hadn’t heard of the V5 - I’m using the V4 having updated from the V3 a couple of years ago and must admit to being a fan. The website revealed very little so I emailed the very helpful Miso at Vivid who explained. I thought Wetpixel readers might be interested in what I learned. The V5 is a re-designed body incorporating the V4 electronics in a more compact package with a couple of new features. Vivid must have read my mind about the two issues on the V4 that I’d like to have seen improved: one is the brightness and ease of view of the flashing LED red (underwater heart attack time) or green (relax, all’s well). On the V3 and V4 versions of the LS the LED was quite small and could be a little hard to see especially in brighter light. The LED on the V5 is now much better positioned on top of the valve and significantly brighter. Secondly, changing the battery on the V3 and V4, while not difficult and only necessary roughly after 100 hours, could take a bit of time. Not so on the V5 where a more accessible battery should make changes quicker and easier. Miso also explained that he now has a V5 “special” edition which allows the V5 electronics to be installed inside the housing. These are connected by a thin cable to a shorter V5-style valve body incorporating the LED and pump connector. The valve assembly is screwed into a spare housing bulkhead in the usual way. This arrangement makes battery changing even easier and reduces the size of the exterior valve yet further. The electronics take up very little room in the housing. I have always felt that, after a magnifying viewfinder, the cost of the Leak Sentinel was arguably the best money I have spent on my housing. The sense of security and peace of mind is well worth the cost! I’ve been delighted with the way the V3/V4 works and wouldn’t now be without one fitted to my housing. With the improvements now built into the V5 I bit yet another bullet and ordered one.......
Due to a change of system I am selling my Ikelite Nikon D800 housing (6812.8) with Leak Sentinel V4 vacuum system. It comes with a single Ikelite to Nikonos sync cord and a fibre optic cord for triggering the second strobe. Also included are 4 x ball mounts for the quick release handle and a port extension 5510.10 (since replaced by 5510.11). A selection of O rings and spares as well. The housing has been well used and shows plenty of scuffs etc. , but has never been flooded. I will draw your attention to a slight flaw in the housing body so that you know exactly what you're getting, just below the lens release knob/ button and is approximately 4mm long. Hopefully the attached image will show this. More images can be sent on request. At the moment I don't really want to split, but may consider offers. Looking for £850
Does anyone know if it's possible to dismantle the Nikonos 5 connector on the end of a Sea & Sea sync cord? I have just bought a Leak Sentinel for my Sea & Sea MDX-D300 housing and I want to fit it to the spare strobe port but the two strobe ports are very close together and the body of the Leak Sentinel catches the knurled ring at the top of the threaded section of the connector for the sync cord. I need to machine it down to make it fit but to do this neatly and avoid damaging the cord I really need to take it off the cord. The lock ring was easy as it just unscrews but the remainder of the connector looks to be sealed. I can just mount the valve onto the strobe port and fit the electronics inside the housing but I would prefer to mount the whole unit externally. Does anyone know if the connector can be taken apart or has anyone any suggestions for sorting this? Thanks. S.