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Found 30 results

  1. Basically brand new. Used twice. They fit Sea&Sea YS-D1, YS-D2 and YS-D2J strobes. I have the YS-D3s now and have no use for them. They've been sitting in a clean stored away area for awhile now and would love to get them to a good home. Selling for $50 for both or $30 apiece. Brand new they are $90 apiece. Thanks! Dan
  2. Kraken Solar Flare Mini 12,000 Lumen Underwater Video Light ($500) - in perfect condition, well cared for - vacuum sealed - has strobe mode (fiber optics) Light & Motion Sola Video Pro 15K Underwater Video Light ($750) - in perfect condition, well cared for - powerful and easy to operate I will consider reasonable deals if you get both lights. Shipping will depend on where you live. Happy to answer any questions IMG_5406.HEICIMG_5403.HEICThanks! IMG_5402.HEICIMG_5401.HEICDan
  3. Keldan Video lights - 13000 lumen each. Adjustable lockable power output switch. Both units for sale with original chargers and boxes. Total time used = < 20hrs and < than 30 full cycles in perfect working order with batteries stored at 50%. Original purchase receipt - 1 owner only. Both come with a std. ball mount. Can sell either separately or together. Seller is BSAC Advanced Instructor No. 1719 based in the UK. Ebay seller ID: GIS_ARC (check score). Pictures Here
  4. Hi, I'm fairly a beginner in underwater photography and till now have used the Sony A7iii with a Seafrogs housing with a 6" dome and the 16-35 f/2.8 GM lens. I've been quite happy with the setup. For my overwater images, I've upgraded to the Sony A1, and am looking again at the Seafrogs housing for that. Now I have two options that would suite my 16-35 GM (and they would also fit my on-land favourite - the 135 f/1.8 GM - at least physically). Here are my questions: 1. I have the option of a 6" dome that fits both lenses, or a long flat port that also fits both. Both ports have been tested with the 16-35GM to have no vignetting. The dome is acrylic, while the flat is double coated optical glass. Which would be better for me? 2. Is 135 a good focal length for underwater? It's not a macro lens, and the minimal focal distance is 70 cm. However, the 135 GM is amazing in low light, and often when shooting underwater, I do wish I could go narrower and capture some portraits. 3. How important is a strobe? I'm mostly a holiday diver, and have dived in the Caribbean, Bali, Philippines, etc. I don't see myself diving at night or in colder regions anytime soon. The seafrogs housings have a cold shoe on top to put a GoPro on. If I'm recording video while shooting stills, should I opt for a video light instead? Would the strobe ruin the video? Any recommendations on a strobe / video light to get started?
  5. I wonder if it is worth practicing at home with the strobes. I have a pair of new Retra pro but being locked up at home due to Covid I have not been able to test them in depth. I understand that power will not be the same in air as in water, but I wonder if the effect of light would be similar. What do you think about that?
  6. I shoot mostly macro and a little bit bit of wide angle. I wanted a rig that I could do a bit of both and not break the budget. Did I forget anything? Any input on any of my choices? Here are some of my pics. My Flickr Page
  7. Hello! Any advice on the camera settings, positioning, time of day, specific gear/setup etc., to get the perfect sun burst? I managed to get a couple, but I will admit it was a function of good luck...
  8. Hi All, I am looking for video lights that can operate both above and below the water for extended time (40 mins+). This is a bit hard to find as most underwater video lights need water to prevent them from overheating. Right now the only option I am able to find is the Light and Motion Stella CL 1000/2500 UW Video Light. The light will function up to 1000 lumens above water and up to 2500 lumens below water. Based on my experience 2 x 1000 lumen video lights is sufficient lighting above water to illuminate photography subjects up to 5 meters away. However, underwater I am not sure if 2 x 2500 Lumen Video lights would provide enough lighting to be useful underwater. My questions are: 1. What type of underwater photography/video would 2 x 2500 lumen Video Lights allow me to do achieve decently? I know it should be enough for macro but what about medium sized subjects at about 0.5 -1 meter distance? 2. Does anyone have experience using the Light and Motion Stella CL 1000/2500 UW Video Light? How was your experience? 3. Does anyone know of other Video Light options that are able to operate above and below water at extended periods? Thanks, Aaron
  9. For sale: A complete buoyancy arm set of two Ultralight 12" buoyancy arms, with four clamps, for $90, including shipping. This is perfect for wide angle photography. If interested, please PM, or through my website at http://www.kandfoto.comor on FB at https://www.facebook.com/Kandfoto
  10. Hi, I went to East Greenland in September and sailed through a number of the Fjord systems. We had amazing water, which is common deep in Fjords. Coming home I realized I next year when we go back I want to work on Over / Under photo's of Icebergs. Living in Seattle I don't really have a great place to practice on something of that scale so I'm hoping to get some advice, especially around lighting. Gear: D850, 8" Dome Port and a Sigma 14MM F1.8 lens. What I'm struggling to understand is what type of lighting I need. Clearly strobe lighting is required, but being new to this, do I need something with a high guide rating? We shoule have decent ambient lighting and the water tends to be quite clear generally and very calm. Thanks for the tips. I'm completely new to underwater photography so hoping to get a decent setup and then head into some of the Alpine lakes around me this winter to practice. Tim
  11. Hi. I need a set of strobes to help collect surface images of the cave floor. That means flat, even lighting, while shooting 5-15' above the floor. That also means not interested in macro abilities or dramatic shadows or contrast, really not for making pretty shots (though maybe when the opportunity arises). For this project, I expected to be using someone else's rig that worked well for me on a previous project in which we used video lights. The lights worked well enough because the canon 5D is awesome in low light, but still there was some edge effects that were less than ideal. This time, I will be using my own Panasonic Lumix Lx10. I like video lights, and was planning to purchase some, but everyone keeps telling me that for less money, I can get brighter light for my stills with strobes. Since this wasn't an expected expense that I could have written into my grant, I will be buying these strobes with my own money... and I'm a grad student, so that ain't a deep pool to dive. I'm looking at three budget options: Inon S-2000, Sea & Sea ys-01, and ys-03. Someone at Backscatter told me that I should steer clear of the ys-03 because I will probably want lower power shots for the cave, and there's no manual control. My thought was that my focus light will allow the camera to communicate the need for a lower power flash if need be. But, more control options are usually better. Backscatter also has an article that found that the YS-01 is a lot brighter than the S-2000. But, the S-2000 has the external accessible sensor that may mean I have a wireless option to play with if I need it. Any insights from more experienced photographers would be super helpful. Thanks for any comments. Cheers.
  12. Retra LSD snoot for Inon z240 or Ikelite DS200 (i have two adapter) Snoot is in very good condition and price is 250 € + shipping Set includes: - Retra LSD Snoot - adapter for Inon strobe - adapter for Ikelite DS200 strobe - 4 shapes
  13. Let's see if a mod can split this thread On WA shots I used to place my light arms more or less at the same height of my camera. Now I try to place them higher than my camera trying to have a light angle coming from above. I like the shadows I get. Of course every reef is different so your mileage may vary. Now I have 4 lights. Two old Keldan Luna 8 CRI (5K lumen each I guess). Two prototypes built by a friend of mine (12K lumen each). I never mounted them together. IMHO I would get a correctly exposed flat image, nothing more. When a keen buddy is available I give him the most powerful set. I fill the subject in front of me with my Keldan and my buddy "flies" 1,5 meters above my head trying to light up the scene/subject from above. Then we play with different angles. I find that in this way you get amazing shadows. Sometime we get a sense of depth impossible to get in other ways. Sometime we try a different approach: I light up part of the scene in front of me filming my buddy which in turn light up further far away. Sometimes we get clips we like a lot, sometimes just trash. This video was made from two dives we experimented a lot this technique. I made a lot of mistakes (i.e. I left my lights on while being well far away from the subject getting only a lot of backscatter. The Gerardia Savaglia was completely burnt on the highlights cause I haven't zebra on my GH3) nevertheless you can see several examples of what I'm trying to explain. The amphora at 1:12 and 1:24 is light up from my lights and from my buddy above. The same scene at 1:30 is light up only by me and as you can see it's not simply a matter of exposure. The clip at 1:12 has a completely different depth of field. We used the same "tricks" on most of the clips of this video: You can see what you can get on a big sponge light up from the opposite at 2:13. Again the small gerardia savaglia from 2:40 is light up from above even in the close up clip. At 3:22 you can see my buddy moving upwards while I film the small dendrophyllia and you can see how the reef appears under this kind of light. At 4:29 an example of me lighting up part of the scene in front of me while my buddy, in turn, lights up further far away. We gently move together giving a great "sense of depth" IMHO. I understand that I have very particular tastes for UW imaging. I do not pretend to be mainstream and sometime I'm very contentious here Once you have several lights and some collaborative buddy you can be very creative. In conclusion... we never get bored underwater. Bye
  14. Fiber optic port NOT included I am selling two Ikelite Remote Optical Slave Converters (from 2014). They are used but fully working, there is no fiber optic port that normally screws on the front included. I have more than I need so am selling. Connector protection included. Can sell singularly or as bulk - £50.00 each ONO. Information from Ikelite: "Trigger your Ikelite DS-series strobe off any camera or strobe flash. The Optical Slave Converter simply attaches to the strobe's electrical bulkhead in place of a sync cord connector. The enlarged slave window provides approximately 90 degrees field of view for remote triggering. Recommended if wireless slave triggering is your primary application. The Optical Slave Converter can be extended using the optional 3-foot Extension Cord for creative backlighting in wrecks, caves, and pool studio set-ups. It can also be used above water for studio photography work. The Optical Slave Converter supports manual exposure modes as set on the attached DS strobe. TTL exposure mode is not supported. An individual Optical Slave Converter is needed for each strobe. Use of multiple strobes requires one Optical Slave Converter per strobe. The Optical Slave Converter supports DS50, DS51, DS125, DS160 and DS161 strobes."
  15. Hi, As the topic clearly states, I'd like to start a healthy debate on lighting when shooting video underwater. I really don't use lights for many reasons such as we shoot in water with many particles/planktons, I don't shoot at night, I don't like to disturb the creatures, etc... I would like to leave the reasoning for the forum members. I will try to start a poll and if I couldn't, I'd like the administrator to help in setting up the poll. The questions about when is lighting more effective. 1) do you use lights all the times? 2) do use lights for macro only? 3) or you don't use lights at all? In the reply to the topic, members can elaborate on the reasons for or against lighting. Regards, Thani
  16. Strobe arm loc line "set" for Nauticam: 10 loc line segments, Nauticam T-Plate Mount for Easitray and Flexitray, Fisheye Fix Flex (Loc-line) Arm T-Slide Base, Angled, and YS top adaptor ¾ inch. I used this with my Nauticam housing and Inon strobe for a couple of days, but it's well-rinsed and looks new. Asking $45, plus shipping from Virginia.
  17. Sea & Sea MDX-d600 - extremely good condition, very lightly used all buttons and valves working perfectly, O-rings in perfect condition Sea & Sea 8 inch dome - extremely good condition, couple minor scuffs/scratches but nothing immediately visible, nothing that shows up in photos. Sea & Sea 40L extension ring Sea & Sea 30L extension ring Sea & Sea YS-250 strobe with extra battery and charger. Sea & Sea YS-01 strobe (uses AA batteries) Fiber optic sync cable - Barely used i Series pelica case with high density foam tool kit with extra o-rings, alan keys, o-ring grease, etc. Please contact john@johnkelseyphoto.com for more info $3500 negotiable
  18. New Ultrlight AC-NB Neck Ball adapter for video light or spotting light. See pictures for mounting method. $19.00 + shipping in U.S.
  19. For sale is an absolutely MINT condition Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobe. Used on a single 10-day trip. Maintained meticulously. Selling only because will be purchasing a new full rig that comes with two strobes already. It will come in original, intact box, with all accessories included: YS mount and screw, ball mount, diffusers x 2, silicone lube, Allen wrench, manuals. O-ring is intact and has been removed, cleaned, and stored in the battery compartment - make sure to replace before use. Price is $550 with free shipping to the Continental US.
  20. Given that my last topic here was about the Shogun housing that cost me an arm and a leg, I thought I'd go to the other end of the spectrum and describe the cheapest piece of underwater video equipment that I ever bought. Last weekend, I was wandering around a huge hardware store here in Bangkok when I had an idea for a snoot. I found two bits of "reducing diameter" water pipe that fit snugly together and, by some miracle of hardware sizing, fits perfectly on the iTorch Pro 7. Because the wider end is slightly tapered, it slides on tight enough to wedge on without any tape, velcro, clamps or locks. It needs to be wiggled slightly to get it off. It's like someone designed these plumbing pieces to be made into a snoot! Of course it helps that the iTorch Pro 7 is exactly a particular dimension and has its one switch far enough back that the snoot does not interfere with it. I just glued the 2 bits of pipe together and painted it black with a can of matt spray paint. It fits into the same pocket on my BP/W belt as the one that I use to carry my light filters. From about 15cm from the mouth of the snoot, it makes a oblong of light about 6cm across with quite defined edges. Total cost: about $5 for two, plus the spray paint. Regards Peter The iTorch Light and the water pipe parts: The finished Snoot painted black: The Snoot mounted on the light:
  21. Been looking at some of the blue led lighting options out there for night fluo diving and in the end just finding it way too expensive what it is so looking at the DIY options. I use those inexpensive $30 ebay 2000lm dive lights from China (not really 2000lm but bright enough) for my regular dives and has over 25 dives so far without flooding so far. I'm now looking at trying the more powerful 8000lm rated ones like the Skyray the under $80 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SKYRAY-Diving-Scuba-8000LM-5x-CREE-XM-L2-LED-100m-Flashlight-Torch-18650-26650-A-/311326974725?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item487c88a305 How hard would it be to open one of these type of lights to desolder and replace the LED's with the equivalent royal blue 450nm LED's? Not sure if this would be the right one but something similar: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Pieces-3W-High-Power-LED-Emitter-ROYAL-BLUE-445-450nm-/121185868503?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c373d9ad7 From that point I think its only a matter of ordering blue excitation filter to replace the front glass on the torch or to stack on top depending on thickness. I've seen them for around $20-30. That would end up being under $140 for a 5x Royal Blue LED light. - I'm planing to build 2-3 of these for photo/video rig. All the other components like yellow barrier filters for mask & camera are affordable so definately buy ready made options. Thoughts?
  22. Hello all! I'm selling a DiveRite video lighting setup consisting of dual, adjustable 50 watt HID's with: -Chargers -Extra canister orings -Ball attachments for video arms One battery pack (NIMH) gets 1 hour burn, and the other 40 minutes. $1000 + ship (OBO) Thanks for lookin!
  23. Brand new, never used underwater, Sea & Sea YS-250 Pro Strobe. This was my 2nd back-up and has never been needed, so in as new condition. No scratches or marks, perfect condition. Complete with battery, charger, diffuser & Ultralight YS-Ball Mount. These retail for US$ 1067 + $23 for the YS Ball Mount at Reef Photo & Backscatter. Grab a bargain $850 ono. Item located in Thailand. Buyer pays postage (which isn't too expensive from here). PM or email alex@dive4photos for more info or to purchase.
  24. I just got my Fix Neo with a red focus light and have experimented (on land). I set the red focus light and used the YS-D1 strobes set at TTL and made the shot. The images still have a red tinge. Is there a method to avoid this red tinge or should I not use the red focus light. I always thought the strobes would wash out the red. BTW I'm using the optical connection on both the strobes with each one connected to the bulkhead housing of the Nauticam 70D. On another topic speaking of YS-D1 - why do they show in the manual to connect one strobe to the bulkhead and the other optical cord to the other YS-D1 strobe rather than connecting both the optical cords to the two optical connections on the bulkhead? Thanks for your input.
  25. I’m selling a lightly used Inon S2000. I’ve used it maybe two to three times. Works perfect and looks flawless. Never flooded, super clean. Includes box, manual and remote adapter (not sure what its called but it’s a tiny mirror adapter that allows off camera lighting). $450 including shipping within the US. Int’l buyers responsible for shipping and any import duties. Click through for photos.,
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