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Found 23 results

  1. I am half way ready to tell Sea & Sea exactly where they can shove my YS-D2 (non J) strobes. One had to replace a bulb after about a year. The second I had to replace a charred front housing. Both repairs were $200+ Now one of the strobes has a parasitic draw when the batteries are in it. If I prep my camera the night before and try to shoot it the next day, the batteries in one of the strobes will pretty much be dead. More than 24 hours, guaranteed completely dead. This is with the power switch set to "off." Has anyone had a similar problem? I am seriously considering replacing them with Inon Z330s or the new Retra strobes if they EVER actually ship. I really don't want to pay Sea & Sea a second time for YS-D2J which is what the original YS-D2 should have been...
  2. I have a Canon 5D Mark IV with a Sea and Sea MDX 5D housing, Sea and Sea TTL optic converter & 2 YS-D2 strobes. I've been having intermittent problems with exposures in TTL mode for all ranges-macro as well as wide angle. I have all the modes set correctly Blue, blue, blue, but sometimes the left strobe not synching fully or at least exposures are under, or sometimes it looks like they didn't fire at all.... Through process of elimination, I've replaced the converter, swapped cables, even replaced the strobe. If I switch to manual Green, green, green, everything looks much better exposure wise and consistency. I don't mind this but I'm surprised that the TTL isn't working better. I don't think it would be my camera, but anyone with similar gear that could give insight would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Where is the serial number located on a YS-D2 (J)? I seem to be missing it in the manual, on the housing, in the battery compartment, under the connector cap or mounting foot ... and sure could use a pointer as to where it is to be found.
  4. Hello everyone, Does anyone have input in regards to the best batteries for a pair of YS-D2 strobes? I have heard good things about the Amazon Basics, Eneloops, or Eneloops Pro. Thanks in advance, Oscar Ramirez.
  5. Is there a way to tell with certainty if a YS-D2 is made in Japan (is a so called YS-D2J with supposedly less issues than the alternative is said to have (no first hand experience)) indeed - or is not really a YS-D2J? By that I mean by looking at the actual unit, not by looking at accompanying printed matter. Asking because if I choose to go that route used or new, It would help to know how to tell the difference.
  6. Hi all! Thanks for accepting me in the forum. I have read that a lot of people had troubles with the strobes YS-D2, but I haven't found anybody with my issue. Let's see if somebody can help me. The last two times I had use my underwater set up (Canon G7X, Nauticam Housing NA-G7X and strobe S&S YS-D2) the strobe is shooting always in maximum power, which is very inconvenient for macro. I've checked all the modes and I have the same problem with all of them (except of the Manual with pre-flash). I wonder if it's a problem with the batteries as they are brand new or the power selector. Any ideas what could be wrong? Thank you very much for your attention and replies.
  7. Hi All, I'm working to understand how my a6000 works in detail with the aim of (possibly) making my own LED TTL converter. At the moment I use the a6000 with its internal flash to trigger a set of YS-D2 strobes using my optical cables. I either use the strobes in manual or TTL mode. The TTL is reasonable, but not always perfect. I wanted to understand how the a6000 TTL system works, so I connected a little oscilloscope to my hotshoe x-sync pin and used the other channel of the oscilloscope with a photodiode to monitor the flash. See attached 2 screen grabs for two flash types - Fill Flash, Rear Sync. I also did a rear sync, but it's result was remarkably similar. I wasn't able, in any case, either Manual, Aperture priority or full automatic, to witness any pre-flash whatsoever from the camera's internal flash. Does the a6000 meter TTL during the exposure? Am I missing something here. Welcome any insights, comments or suggestions to be able to run another oscilloscope test. Cheers!
  8. Hello, I have deciding to sell my YS-D2 stobes. They are in very good condition and have been only been used on two dive trips. They have been well cared for and I have the original boxes, manuals, accessories, etc. Plus two CM Custom WA dome diffusors (valued at $150.00 + s/h), and neoprene protectors. $825 obo.
  9. My next dive trip is not for a few months so I'm getting this out there to find any interested parties. I am open to selling this with several extras I'd normally keep (marked with a * below), as a "ready to dive" or "turn-key" system if someone is set on that Reason for selling = camera upgrade fund! There is a tiny bit of truth when I say I've outgrown this, but honestly, this is a very capable setup and if I have to tell you the limitations - are they going to be the limiting factor for you? Maybe? Maybe not. I am absolutely open to discussing the above... more information the better, right? Option 1: the "100% ready to dive/shoot" package This is for the small chance someone wants a FULL READY TO DIVE setup. Super macro to CFWA to WA to... Aquatica AD90 housing Nikon D90 (1 or 2 bodies) 3x YS-D2 stobes Aquatica AF macro port(18428) + flip adapter 8" dome port + shade * Mini dome port * extension rings * Nikon 60mm macro AF-D lens or Tokina 10-17 * Sea & Sea dual sync cable * ULCS arms + clamps + floats * .... + whatever else you need to purchase option 1 * * These are only for sale in this option. Unlikely I will sell these separately - this is only for someone who wants a "100% dive ready" setup Option 2: the "mostly ready to dive/shoot" package Just add arms and a lens and a sync cable Aquatica AD90 housing Aquatica AF macro port (18428) Nikon D90 (1 or 2) YS-D2 stobes (1 or 2) Option 3: pick and choose (asking price in USD) 1 - Aquatica AD90 housing - $800 1 - Aquatica AD90 housing + extras - $1000 (spare brand new nikonos style bulkhead $145, vacuum, spare rebuild $66 and o-rings) 2 - Nikon D90 bodies - $250/ea 2 - YS-D2 stobes - $425 1 - YS-D2 strobe in box (prize) - $450 1 - 110 degree wide angle wet lens - $375 (https://goo.gl/tzTPyU) Shipping is split 50/50 for USA. Open to sell internationally, but will need to research that further. Pics available on request To add some further detail these items. Housing - purchased used here on Wetpixel, never flooded it or had any issues. Very clean on the inside, outside has minimal, but some signs of use. It does have someones name on top (thanks Charles hah) but in very good shape otherwise. I can't speak for other housings, but Aquatica housings are solid/rugged. As this is my primary camera setup, I actively shoot this and just got back from two weeks in Bali. Can share pics of what this is capable of. This would come with quite a few extras from a full service kit to spare o-rings and a spare bulkhead. There is a Vivid leak sentinel v4 vacuum on this housing, but 100% honesty here - I think I may have killed the current electronics. However, I do have a back up electronics ($100 I think?) so I will be investigating further and worst case, throwing the back up circuit board in. D90 bodies - not much to say on these. Have original box for one. One of these was serviced about two years ago - I made the mistake of going to and from AC and hot/humid on an Indonesia trip and had to send it in to Nikon. I can look up shutter counts but overall, these are in great condition. The shutter release button shows scratches and signs of use (from the housing) but outside of that, I don't think you'll find a scratch on them. Sensor may need cleaned though, I noticed a few spots this trip. Ebay prices look fairly low though, so I may keep YS-D2 strobes - I purchased two of these, and then won one from a shootout contest (which has never seen water). I thought that I would replace my old and very used ys-110a strobes to get more light for WA, but to be honest, I found out that I do not like the "off center" focus light. Although a trivial detail for most(?), for me this is fairly big as I shoot a lot of macro and use snoots extensively. This is just awkward for me to line up the shot, and then adjust based on the offset of the focus light. The two used strobes have been on less then 20 dives each, and very likely less then 10. They have neoprene covers too so you'll likely not see any scratches, and like everything, well rinsed after dives. Wide angle wet lens - this hasn't seen any use since I started shooting DSLR a couple years ago. Pristine condition. 67mm threads - would probably be work great on almost any compact setup. https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/bluewater-wa110-wide-angle-lens Please ask away any questions. Slight preference is to sell the housing with option 1 or 2 but I understand that take time so... All gear in Southern California
  10. Hello All For sale today are two brand new YS-D2 strobes, complete with packaging and all included accessories. These strobes have never been used, and opened only to photograph them. They are 100% functional, with no issues. Have moved to Seacam platform. They are located in Vernon BC, Canada. $1000 USD for the pair. Save about $120 over best price on Ebay. See my previous Wetpixel classifieds for feedback. ianmarsh@icloud.com ian
  11. Buy one or a couple of strobes in good condition Sea & Sea YS-D1 no more than $250 Sea & Sea YS-D2 no more than $350 or Spare part: Main circuit assembly for YS-D2.... also i need service manual for repair YS-D2 (my ys-d2 no correct working...) Payment PayPal, Shipping to US address
  12. Hi all, I wonder if I'm a complete idiot and there's something obvious that I'm missing, but my LED flash trigger won't trigger my TS-D1 and YS-D2. I have the Aquatica AD500 with the optical ports for the flash trigger. The trigger fires my strobes just fine when the camera's out of the housing but not when it's in the housing. It looks to me that this is because the LEDs on the trigger are a long way off lining up with the optical ports on the housing when the camera is installed - so that there's little or no light from the trigger LEDs actually traveling along the optical cables. The flash trigger part number is 18956, which seems to be for the Sony a7 II, a7R II & a7S II (doesn't mention Nikon D500). Could I have the wrong flash trigger? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks, Geoff
  13. Hi, I'm currently searching for a pair of strobes for my Nauticam housing and I'm wondering if I should go for Inon Z-240ies or Sea & Sea YS-D2 (or alternatively YS-D1, although they are more difficult to find these days in Europe). I'm slightly leaning towards the Inon Z-240 (Mark IV) as it can be used with fiber optic sync cords (whereas the YS-D2 would require 5-pin nikonos cords on Nauticam housing) and I read far more posts complaining about the quality of Sea & Sea flashes than Inon's flashes. The YS-D2 would be stronger than the Z-240 (32 vs. 24) but this advantage disappears when using the diffusor to achieve the same angle as the Z-240. So the advantage that remains are the more intuitive controls of the YS-D2. Price is basically the same. Any other thoughts? Thanks in advance!
  14. I am just getting started and have never done UW photography before.. Nonetheless, I am leaving for a two to three week UW photography trip to Asia on May 4th. Please let me go through what I have and what I think I need to buy. I already had the Olympus E-M1 Mark II camera, plus computer equipment and Adobe CC with Lightroom and Photoshop. I literally bought my first UW photography gear from ebay yesterday: -Nauticam CMC-1 $212.50 -Nauticam WWL-1 $531.00 -Panasonic PZ 14-42mm lens + Nauticam Port 29 + focus gear $338.33 The plan is to purchase: -Nauticam housing for E-M1 Mark II with vacuum alert protection -Panasonic 8mm f3.5 ( seems like a cost effective wide angle for a starter system -- compared to the 8mm PRO,) -Nauticam 4.33 inch port for Panasonic 8mm with PF-8 focus gear (With such a small port, am I giving up the ability to do over/under split shots?) -Olympus 60mm macro lens -Nauticam N85 port 65 with 0-60F focus gear for the 60mm lens Accessories -2 Sea and Sea YS-D2 strobes -diffusers for YS-D2s -Fiber Optic cables or sync cords -Focus Light (is a high powered video light too strong for a focus light?) -Nauticam Flexitray II with left and right handles. -Arms -Clamps -Floatation for arms and housing -arm/clamp adapters for strobes -Carrying handle -67mm adapter for CMC-1 and WWL-1? (Are the bayonet adapters useful?) Not sure: Covers for the strobes and ports so they don't get scratched? Bag to carry underwater for CMC-1, WWL-1, port covers and other miscellaneous items? How do you carry all your stuff? Lanyards (to connect camera to some part of the body or BC)? ---- I plan to purchase either used (on wetpixel classifieds or eBay) or from my local dealer (Optical Ocean Sales in Seattle) in spite of the extra 10% state sales tax. What else do I need? Please tell me absolutely everything I need. I don't want to get to Asia and not have something or discover that I bought gear that won't work well. The strobe connectors are a little mysterious to me. Is there a housing/strobe combination which allows TTL with the Olympus E-M1 Mark II (camera does not have an internal flash)? If I stick with the Nauticam housing and YS-D2 strobes what are the best strobe connectors -- fiber optic cables or sync cords? The accessories are still unknown and complicated to me. What is a good, high-quality arm/clamp setup for the Nauticam housing and YS-D2 strobes? Do I need floatation arms and if so, what size do you recommend for the setup above? Knowing nothing, I am thinking of a combination of Nauticam carbon fiber float arms and extra Stix floats, although I have no idea what sizes to get, Do I need a small backup camera if I am travelling on a remote liveaboard in Asia? I am thinking Sony RX100 III and the Fantasea housing. I am finding underwater photography is very complicated and expensive. The only reason I have gotten this far is from reading Alex Mustard's excellent book "Master Classroom," which has inspired me to take up this hobby. It is the best instructional book of any kind that I have ever read. In general, I want a good starter system with high-quality components. I would appreciate comments and advice from Wetpixel members. Thanks! I am just getting started and have never done UW photography before..
  15. Hi all, I read the f.. manual but don't understand the difference between DS-TTL and DS-TTL 2. In the german manual they talk also about a TTL and a SLAVE TTL as a different modus to DS-TTL and DS-TTL 2. Also when I try it out underwater I get almost the same results for different modes. I'm not really happy with most results after it seems for me like it is every time different even when the conditions are the same. My camera is a Sony rx100 III with Aqcuapazza house. Using a fiber optic cable. How do i now if my Sony has a pre-flash (Vorblitz?) It is not written in my manual... What would be the optimized solution for me? Could it be with to by some further equipment? Sorry for my english and many thanks to all who can support ... LG Susanne
  16. Hi everyone! I'm in Cozumel, Mexico and having no luck setting up my RX100 IV (Fantasea housing) to get the strobes to fire. I've had no lighting for 4 dives now and would really appreciate any help anyone can offer. Tutorials, step by step instructions, anything appreciated! I have a Sony RX100 IV in a Fantasea housing and 2 YS-D2 strobes. Questions: 1) What flash setting should I use in the RX100 to get the strobes to fire? (auto, fill, front sync, rear sync?) 2) If I set the strobe to TTL, do I need to set the other dial to a setting? 3) Is there a trick to connecting the fiber optic cables? I'm wondering if I'm not connecting them correctly and that is why the strobes won't fire Thanks in advance for your help! Amy
  17. I have 2 Sea and Sea YS-D2 strobes that were purchased brand new in the fall of 2015. They were used once on a dive trip over Christmas, and one strobe failed so was sent back to Sea and Sea and replaced under warranty in Feb. 2016. The new strobe was used a couple of weeks ago on a local dive and performed perfectly. Neither strobe has flooded and has been maintained well. Obviously both are still under manufacturer's warranty. Comes with original boxes, paperwork, o-rings, grease, diffusers, ball mount/YS mounts. The reason I'm selling these LIKE NEW strobes is that I've decided to go back to the Inon Z240's. Just personal preference, I guess, since I got amazing results with the YS-D2's. Brand new these strobes go for $650/each PLUS TAX. My loss is your GAIN! Will sell both for $1100 and buyer pays shipping. I only accept PayPal... **** FOR SOME REASON, WETPIXEL WILL NOT LET ME UPLOAD PICS FROM MY IPHONE OF THESE STROBES (SAYS THEY'RE TOO BIG??). IF INTERESTED, I'LL GLADLY SEND YOU PICS VIA EMAIL.. ****
  18. I have been having some Sea&Sea issues . I bought a pair of YS-D1's as my first set of strobes and after about 5 uses, the one just stopped switching on. Tested all and eventually contacted Manex Marine, the agents in South Africa, and sent it back to them by courier. Apparently they would send it to Japan fro investigation, repairs or spares - This was in November 2015 , since then not a peep from the agent or Sea&Sea. I ma currently following up with the agent but no answer yet.. A Deadly silence. I bought a Ys-D2 as a replacement as immediately as I was entered into a shootout the week after the YS-D1 failure and needed a strobe. I was syncing by sync cord and I must say that all the upgrades on the YS-D2 makes it such a great flash and a pleasure to use. Gone is the constant angst about moving a switch by accident and missing a shot when it counts. The colour coding on the settings and the ready beep also works great for me. However I had since had a small flood into my Hugyfot housing due to a failed O-ring on a bulkhead and the sync board in the Hugy housing is beyond repair. My Canon 40D and lens were not harmed, thank goodness. I then switched to dual fibre optic while I am waiting for a replacement card to arrive from Belgium. Now the problem: Setup: Hugyfoy Housing with optical pickup through bulkhead. Fibre optic cables from camera housing fibre optic pickup ( just a perspex plastic capsule through a bulkhead, no electronics, to a YS-D1 and a YS D-2. Camera Canon 40 D Settings: Manual, shutter speed anything from 1/50- 1/250 aperture from f2.8 -f32. Flash assist on camera is off. YS-D1 setting manual - no pre flash YS D2 setting Manual - no preflash - green mode When I trigger the camera, both flashes trigger but the YS-D2 does not have any effect on the image as if it does not sync. Switch off the YS-D1 , the YSD2 triggers with the fibre optic, but does not have any effect on image. Connect the YS-D2 via fibre optic to the optical output on my YS-D1 and problem remains the same. If I switch to manual with pre flash and make sure that the pre flash mode is set to factory default, the flash triggers at full power outset and the image is overexposed, as expected. In neither of these modes do I have any control over the output power via the Light output dial. WTF am I doing wrong or am I reading the manual wrong ? Please help.
  19. Hello everyone, I’m looking to buy my first underwater photography setup and need some advice to put everything together. On the first place I thought about my Nikon D7100 to take underwater but reality is brutal and whole setup would be very expensive and simply I can’t afford it. I sold camera and all lenses so now I can start from the begging. I’m moving to Thailand Koh Tao for year maybe longer. I’ll do my Instructor internship up there and I would like to have equipment with me to save memories. I would like to do some photography and video. My underwater setup needs to be medium size so is easy to carry and great for everyday usage. Camera: Sony RX100 Mark IV looks really nice is small with good photo specification and awesome video mode. I think is top range compact camera now available on the market. What you guys think about that camera is it worth investing money or something else would be a better choice? Housing: NA-RX100IV (www.camerasunderwater.co.uk) price £764 Ikelite is slightly cheaper but Nauticam looks more solid and safer. Lighting: I think the best configuration would be one flash plus video light. -Flash: What would be a better choice Inon Flash Z-240 Type 4 or Sea and Sea YS-D2 Strobe? Maybe they are other options to consider? I found good deal for both strobes and they are nearly same price at http://www.scubastore.com £420 around for each. Batteries are rechargeable or I need to buy them separately? Video light: I have no clue what to choose I may get a wide angle lens if will get enough money so something with high angle would be great, build in battery charger would be great option too. My budget is up to £450. I would like to buy them from http://www.scubastore.com as they have good price deals on equipment. Arms and Lens: I would like to get arms to hold my lighting for my Nauticam housing I have no idea what I will need so would you suggest something? I read about wet wide lens for that housing would you help me chose to best one for my setup? (That would be optional if will get enough money). Cost: Camera £580, Housing £765, Flash up to £450, Video light up to £450, Arms £xxx (Don’t know) Wide lens is optional so not included. TOTAL: £2245 Should I be considering something else? I really appreciated your help. Many thanks, Kris.
  20. Selling two like new Sea & Sea YS-D2 strobes. Used only on 1 dive trip (2 dives). Both are flawless, like new and complete with boxes, manuals, accessories. I will also give you two fiber optic cables! Free cont. US shipping! Purchased new in September for $1500 asking $ 1150.00
  21. Upgraded to full frame setup and therefore selling only TWO TIMES used underwater Sony RX100IV with extra battery, charger, Sony travel case, new LCD screen protector (SONY), Nauticam Housing, Nauticam LCD magnifier with diopter, Vacuum valve with pump, Nauticam Flexitray W II, WWL-1 Wide angle lens + Bayonet mount, CMC-1 lens + Bayonet mount, 2x Nauticam 8"arms, 2x Nauticam 5" arms, Nauticam cold shoe YS mount, Nauticam cold shoe Ball mount, Nauticam Bayonet Lens holder, Fisheye Fix Neo DX2000 SWRM, 2x SEA & SEA YS-D2 with 2x Fiber optic cable All items were purchased in September from US authorized dealers. All items come with original boxes,manuals, accessories and are still under warranty! Absolutely flawless! I also have original receipts (upon request) For some reason I can't upload the picture of the camera and its accessories (file too big) but I can email the picture along with other pictures of the complete setup together upon request. I have a 100% feedback on eBay (kapikocustoms). Free cont.US shipping with insurance! I will ship worldwide! Paypal only Trying to sell as complete set. All together purchased for $7000.00! Yours for only $6000! That's a $1000 dollars savings! If you do not need the camera, the price for all (excluding RX100IV) would be minus $800.00 which totaling $5200.00 I can send more pictures upon request. BEST ULTIMATE COMPACT 4K-MACRO-WIDE ANGLE SETUP YOU WILL FIND!
  22. Hello, I'm looking to buy pair of strobes for D7000 (YS-D2, Inon z240, YS-D1, DS160) or say what you have. Europe only.
  23. There are very different views on the gudie number values underwater: some use a factor of 2, some even 4(!) to estimate underwater GN from land values. Which is correct for clean blue seawater or 50m vis pool? I suppose color temperature also has a significant effect here, the 4200-4800K strobes getting punished for their nice warm light... E.g how do the inon z240's compare to the subtronic novas in terms of underwater working distance? (iso, f-stop being the same) Coverage might be the cause of confusion here, "flat port" strobes, like the inons, squeeze their beam underwater, e.g. the 100°-s of the z240 becomes 70°, approximately doubling the power/surface ratio. I guess a factor of 2 is sufficient for "squeezed angle" strobes, factors of 3+are for dome-port units, like the subtronics, seacam.
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