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Found 17 results

  1. I just got my new FA6500 v2 housing which comes with a vacuum safety system (awesome Fantasea!). I was using the original Fantasea FA6500 for about 2.5 years. I wanted to service my old one and also get a vacuum system, but it was cheap enough to just buy another one (and have a backup housing). I rely on the LEG trigger because Sony A6500/A6300 has no manual internal flash control and the recycle time is pants. Using the internal flash to trigger the strobes is ok if you take 30 pics on a dive, but useless for those situations when you're in a feeding frenzy of activity and need to take lots of shots in a short period of time to get a good one. I read that Fantasea are bringing out the FA-3 LED trigger which is compatible with the new housing, so far it is not available yet in Australia. Besides, I was bummed but the idea of having to spend another $300 for an item I already own that is now useless to me. At first it appears to fit, but when testing I noticed that the addition of the vaccum system inside the housing (when closed) is pushing against the LED trigger and moving the camera slightly forwards in the housing, which meant that some of the controls weren't working. Fortunately I had a spare FA-2 trigger that was giving me problems to experiment with. Fantasea had kindly send me a replacement a year or two ago because I think I just got one with a factory defect. I decided to try modifying the LED casing to make it fit. First I removed the electrics and sanded down the back, removing about 1mm of the plastic. This didn't work. So using blue-tak, I worked out where the vacuum valve was pushing against the trigger's casing. (Should have done this step first!) Turns out it is just above the on/off switch on the trigger. So using a carpet knife and sandpaper, I removed some more of the casing. After testing, I covered the hole with electrical tape to provide a barrier to dust and reseal it. Works perfectly now. FYI, you don't have to remove the electrics for this procedure, just remove the top cover.
  2. I'm currently interested in making a DIY 3-leg tripod for videography. If anyone has any smart ideas I'd love to hear about them.
  3. Hello everyone I've been a recreational diver for the past six years. I live in Finland where there is not much to see while diving so I only do it on longer vacations once every one or two years. I have been building my own underwater housing for my cameras for ten years now. I'm not much of a photographer, instead my interest in building housings comes more from an engineering viewpoint. The success with the DIY housings (4 by now) has been mixed during the past years but by now I have only destroyed one camera partly. On the other hand not one of the housings has been completely leak proof. Anyway, the housings have been evolving to more and more professional level by the years and now I thought it is time to share the current project with all of you as I have found only a very limited number of other DIY housing projects in internet. Maybe it's because everyone else values their time and gear too much to spend hundreds of hours of time in order to make a housing which implodes in 30 meters... As a reference below is a picture of my previous DIY housing which is for Olympus E-PL2 with 20mm Panasonic pancake lens. The body of the housing is machined from a solid block of aluminum and the port is turned also of aluminum and attached with screws to the body. Front lens is acrylic and the back cover is 10 mm thick polycarbonate. This housing was made two years ago for a 3 month trip to Central America. There were problems with the back cover as the polycarbonate developed cracks around some threads. This may have been caused by the ethanol I used to clean oil from the polycarbonate. The 10mm thickness also was not enough for deep dives as the back cover bended visibly. Therefore I used the housing mainly for snorkling and for that it functioned pretty well. Currently I am designing a housing for my E-M5 which I'm planning to use with Samyang 7.5 mm fisheye lens. Me and my girlfriend are leaving to the Philippines at the end of this month so I am starting to be pretty low on time to finish the project. The structure of t he housing is basically the same as that of the E-PL2 housing, however, it will have a dome port, hopefully better ergonomics and I dare to hope that this housing will finally be leak free. Below are two images from the CAD model in its current state. I guess I will have to finalize the CAD model during the next weekend in order to start machining the parts next week. I am planning also to print a 3D model of the housing to test the ergonomics before I start machining it. We'll see if I can make that happen. Oh, in case you are wondering how I get to use such nice tools as 3D printers and CNC machines, the answer is that I work at the machine design department of the largest university in Finland. There are still a couple of problems to solve with the housing design. First would be how to attach the dome to the port. The dome is separated from an Ikelite 5503.15 dome port which was leaking from the glue seams between the plastic parts. I was planning to use an o-ring between the dome and the aluminum port but then there was the problem on how to press the dome against the o-ring. Also, I was worried that the dome might develop cracks when the pressure presses it against the aluminum. Therefore, I decided that it might be the best option to just glue the dome to the port with epoxy. This will make it leakproof and the glue also should distribute the surface pressure between the dome and the port evenly. The downside is that when the dome is glue, it can't be removed. Another, still unsolved problem is the trigger button. As you can see in the image of the CAD model, it is still unfinished. If it is located above the trigger button of the E-M5 it will be quite far from the left side of the housing and my (short) index finger will not reach it easily. Therefore the button should be moved to the left somehow. The commercial housings have nice lever systems for the trigger but I'm afraid they will be difficult to manufacture in a DIY project. I would be glad if you could give me some ideas on how to solve this. I will add more pictures and info later about the current state of the project and of course add pics when I start machining the parts. Now I will unfortunately have to start doing the work I get paid for.
  4. Hi, It seems that the enthusiasm for a better/cheaper snoot never runs out. I usually find it hard to point the beam of light on the subject, and even a slow moving one escapes by the time I get it. So I wanted a light guide that will show were snoot actually points to. I tried the 10Bar laser focus and found it unreliable and inaccurate. I did design a version where the laser projected on the same line as the strobe using beam splitter. But the laser was annoying. Then I realized that the same design can work with a strong focus torch. The benefit is that I get to see the whole beam and that it is much brighter than the little red laser dot. Here is the result. It is a modular snoot that can either have a fixed head (at different beam diameters) or a fiber-optic attachment that can be manipulated by hand. An example of a photo made with this snoot. I had 12-50mm (Olympus EM-1) + wet diopter lens (nauticam CMC2). The focus light was on red, and my dive buddy was aiming the optic fiber snoot at individual skeleton shrimps.... Would love to hear your comments and suggestions. The design is uploaded to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3749151
  5. Hi there! So I have a bit of a weird situation with my current set up, in that I have an Aquatica housing with LED flash trigger, and a YS-D1, and a YS-D2. As has been documented in various forum threads, the YS-D2 is not very sensitive, and so doesn't trigger from most LED flash triggers. That means that the solution I came up with is to trigger the YS-D1, and have the output of the D1 trigger the D2. That means running a fiber optic from the housing to the left (D1) strobe, and another fiber optic from the left strobe ALL the way to the right (D2). This was not possible with the length of the arms and my usual fiber optic cables so I ordered a long Sea & Sea cable which cost over $80, and still was not long enough. So I am building my own. For this after a few measurements I guesstimated that these parts would work: 25 feet of TosLink fiber optic (already tested with some Toslink to make sure it triggered): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LJQPE0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Some rubber grommet thingys that would fit snugly in the Sea & Sea FO hole: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XBG5U82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Some o-rings that would fit snugly over the grommets: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTO0US6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 So.. on to the build Cut the fiber optic on a hard surface Measure out the length by running it along the whole setup as if its being installed Trim back the rubber from the outside of the fiber, exposing the still coated core Trim the little ridge on the rubber grommet, so that the o-ring can fit in the groove Place o-ring, this should now fit snugly in the FiberOptic hole Trim the rubber on the fiber optic back to where when slide inside the grommet, it just peeks out the other end. The fit with this brand of fiber optic was nigh on perfect! You should only need a bit of rubber cement to hold the fiber in place.. Thats pretty much it!! I now have over 2 foot of fiber optic for about $3! Pretty happy with the results. Obviously it doesn't have the coiling functionality of the branded fiber optic but I am going to be using some clips to hold it along the arms.
  6. Hey all, I like to tinker with stuff and wanted to ask - does anyone know how to get the components for the S&S/Nikonos style bulkheads? Is this completely proprietary? Or does it simply have another name? I know I could re-purpose a $100-140 bulkhead (or part out something used) but I wanted to ask if I could buy the components anywhere... Essentially, I want to run an electrical cable from my housing to a water proof "something else" that I can tinker with remote shutter/programmable selfie mode/strobe/etc. Thanks!
  7. Hi Guys I found this post in petapixel that might have information that helps decoding e-TTL... and if it can be used to build a TTL LED Microstrobe, it would be nice.... https://petapixel.com/2018/07/12/how-canon-dslrs-communicate-with-speedlites-using-light/ BR Pedro Alves
  8. Hi All, I've been working on it for quite a long time now, and I managed to break 3 flashes until now, but now it is 99% working, so I'm happy to share my DIY. So I have the Olympus OMD EM1, with the Olympus housing, I wanted to have a Led trigger, that will NOT have batteries (powered from the camera) and will work with TTL and I will be able to adjust the intensity from the camera itself. So It wasn't easy... I have to research a lot of LEDs different sizes colors and wavelengths, wanted it to work with any fiberoptic out there... not to have to change anything in my setup. So to make a long story short, it is working! I will share the process in general now, and then I promised a good friend to do the same for him, so during that, I will upload some more detailed process. the process was to take an FL-LM2 (Olympus original flash) I bought few of those cheap online: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/FL-LM2-top-flash-lamp-for-Olympus-E-PL7-E-PL5-E-PL6-E-PL8-E/32812314097.html took it apart, and then with the help of this post: http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Strobe-Trigger-for-Olympus-OM-D-E-M1-Mark-II/ I changed the capacitor to a 1uf, removed all the flash tube board. Now the 5V that I get from the camera is from the accessory port, I knew which pin is the 5V, so I connected a wire to the 5V pin, now that I have 5V and LEDs, all is left is to trigger them. LEDs that worked the best for me where (believe me it wasn't easy to find the correct LEDs that will work every time): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-5mm-Red-Round-High-Power-Super-Bright-Water-Clear-LED-Leds-20-000-MCD/32745321464.html then I disconnected the 750K ohm surface mount resistor (marked as 753 on the board). and connected the negative of the LED to the IGBT marked as p4006 on the board. so Yeah this is not the best way to light a LED 5V and high current, but since it is very very short pulses it is fine. Now the LED were working good, but when I put them back in the case and the housing it wasn't firing, the distance + the reflective sticker in the housing and the fiberoptics had too much attenuation and it didn't fire the flashes. So I have to 3d print a part, to have the LEDs placed inside the housing in the correct place, and now it is great! I will upload the detailed how to when I will make a new one + the STL of the 3d printed file so anyone could do it. In the end, the cost to do so will be 30$ flash, 6$ for 100 LEDs, time and a 3d printer. I'm attaching a photo of how it looks + a video of the final result. https://youtu.be/iD_NyQPrC3I
  9. Nauticam just issued their GX9 housing (NA-GX9). GX9 inside NA-GX9 seems almost the perfect combo for me. It is small & light, it has pop-up flash for TTL with optical fiber, GX9 is not so expensive, I like it for land photo. But GX9 has a big limitation which is battery life allowing only 260 shots (CIPA). (it is 440 for OMD EM-1 II) I know there is an eco mode but I want to keep screen ON for more than 10s. I would like to be able to do 2-3 dives without opening housing to change battery (day trip boat, 90+min dive with plenty of critter). Then I need a bigger battery. I would like to include an external battery inside the housing. This external battery would be connected in parallel with internal battery. (it could also be connected to usb with a small step up/down circuit but this is less efficient) Here is how I would like to achieve this: 1) etch a groove in the plastic around battery in order to insert 2 wires. Plastic seems to be 0.5-1mm thick: enough for a small wire. Solder this 2 wires on the +& - connector from battery (on the side of connector to not perturbate camera contact to battery) On the bottom side of battery continue groove to bring wire in fromt of battery door small opening from camera. 2) output wires thru battery door small opening Is it possible to output a wire when GX85 is inside NA-GX85? (it seems there is a small piece bellow battery door) 3) connect an external battery with a connector on the 2 wires. This external battery is ideally the same GX9 battery to double the capacity. But it can also be a smaller battery or even 2 X 3.6V battery in serie. I'm even thinking into a multiple small LiPo battery assembled as a ring around lens. With Lipo battery I would probably go thru USB with a step up or step down circuit as it is not the same kind of battery. I'm looking for the available room inside the housing (could be on NA-GX85 or NA-GX7 to get an idea) Could you tell me if there is enough space somewhere in the housing to place an additional DMW-BLG10 battery? (size is 42x37x14mm) If not what would be the available room to place 1 or 2 smaller battery? To build a battery ring around lens what is the space between 60mm macro & 65 port? Did someone already tried anything like that in an underwater housing?
  10. Hey all, I just put together a little video on making a tripod for my camera housing that rotates around the port - horizontal for traditional video and vertical for social media. Figured I would share the details. Video: How to Build an Underwater Video Tripod It's all about those successful DIY projects!
  11. Liz's post on upgrading her Aquatica spring set led to this post... My Aquatica housing is probably due for an overhaul. It has about 300 - 400 dives on it, although the vast majority of them are in clear, fresh water. I'd be interested in peoples' thoughts about tackling this myself, vs. sending it in. I'm pretty handy so the task isn't daunting at all, but I'm wondering if all controls can be be removed and replaced with out special tools. I seem to recall a friend did this himself and he said that he couldn't get to all the bits himself. I think it might be fun and also be a good way to learn more about the intricacies of the housing. On the downside, I don't have a chamber handy to test it afterwards! Thoughts?
  12. Hi, As a photographer and 3D printing enthusiast I created several snots. Usually I find them hard to work with and did not use them much. I recently read article/review about 10bar laser guided snoot. I liked the idea and purchased the laser unit alone for 75$. The laser unit is nice. It is basically a small box with a laser and a flash detector for autoshut-off. I started playing with the design of my snoot and looked at the 10bar original. Their design has the laser unit "riding" on the snoot, and the user has an adjustable knob to adjust the angle of the laser. This means that the beam intersect the actual snoot output path only on one point. Elsewhere it will be off center (and probably off target in the thin version of the snoot). An ideal solution for this would have the laser run through the center of the snoot, this will make it precise at any distance. I knew similar solution from microscopes using beam splitter. The idea is simple. A beam splitter is half-mirror, where 50% of the light pass through it and 50% bounce off. In this design the laser is positioned perpendicular to the strobe. The beam splitter is setup at 45degrees to both beams. The price of this solution is reduction in 1/2 of both the laser beam and the strobe light. Since this setup is used for close macro situation, I reasoned that this will not be a big problem. The next question was finding a beam splitter. A professional grade one is expensive (100s of $). However, I found that there is a game "Khet - Eye of Horus" that uses lasers and beam splitter. For about ~$5 I could buy two beam splitters pieces. A quick test showed that these work fine on the laser beam and on the strobe. Removing the plastic frame, I had a nice beam splitter (and a backup one). I designed a snoot and set out to test it. However, the laser beam was lost somewhere in the snoot. Revisiting my components I discovered that the laser beam was not aligned with its housing. The few degrees of offset were sufficient to cause problems. This required having an adjustable mount for the laser that allowed tuning of the beam. The final design in my CAD visualization: The yellow object is YS-01 strobe. The blue ring is attached to the strobe and allows quick attachment of the snoot. The red box is the laser. The tip at the end is exchangeable and is held in place by magnets. (I did not take a proper picture of the snoot, but can load one later on) Last month I had a chance to try it on a short visit to the red sea. Using the snoot with a macro lens was harder than I expected. The problem was getting the damn red point into the frame. I practiced on a pair of nudis, and finally managed few shots. Opening the images on my computer, I realized that the laser was visible in the image, the auto-shutoff did not work. I set the sensor on the laser to point into the strobe, and expected the bounced light to reach it. It seems that the black plastic was doing a good job of absorbing the light. Taping a piece of white plastic on the inner lower wall of the strobe solved that problem. The next day I tried the snoot with a fisheye setup. This made it easier to find where the laser is pointing and positioning it. Two attempts: Not perfect, but something to work with. Since my trip was short, I did not have too much time to get more experience with the snoot. Next time hopefully I will get a better sense of it.
  13. Hey guys, I know this topic has been brought up in the past but, does anyone know if there is a was to hook up an external video monitor to the GH4 Ikelite housing. Ive done some research and unfortunately most of it seems like its a DIY type of thing. I Nauticam the only ones that give this option with the bulkhead? Has anyone tried modifying the TTL bulkhead on the Ikelite housing? If anyone has successfully added a monitor i would love to here how or see pictures. Thanks!
  14. Given that my last topic here was about the Shogun housing that cost me an arm and a leg, I thought I'd go to the other end of the spectrum and describe the cheapest piece of underwater video equipment that I ever bought. Last weekend, I was wandering around a huge hardware store here in Bangkok when I had an idea for a snoot. I found two bits of "reducing diameter" water pipe that fit snugly together and, by some miracle of hardware sizing, fits perfectly on the iTorch Pro 7. Because the wider end is slightly tapered, it slides on tight enough to wedge on without any tape, velcro, clamps or locks. It needs to be wiggled slightly to get it off. It's like someone designed these plumbing pieces to be made into a snoot! Of course it helps that the iTorch Pro 7 is exactly a particular dimension and has its one switch far enough back that the snoot does not interfere with it. I just glued the 2 bits of pipe together and painted it black with a can of matt spray paint. It fits into the same pocket on my BP/W belt as the one that I use to carry my light filters. From about 15cm from the mouth of the snoot, it makes a oblong of light about 6cm across with quite defined edges. Total cost: about $5 for two, plus the spray paint. Regards Peter The iTorch Light and the water pipe parts: The finished Snoot painted black: The Snoot mounted on the light:
  15. Just thinking out loud here but was just wondering if there would be a way to somehow make a converter that screws into the Ikelite strobe connector and converts the electric signal to fire an LED instead (and then attach fiber optic cables to trigger the strobes)? I shoot in manual mode anyways with 2 YS-110a's so just trying to think of ways to lessen the risk of flooding the strobes. Anyone ever try anything like this?
  16. Hi, Have any of you used Ponoko (or similar service) to have your DIY 'inventions' made? If so, how do you rate them? If not, where are people getting their 3D printing done? Cheers, Lawrence
  17. Bought a compass some time ago on a retractor, when the wife and I gave up our console computers for wrist mount, and switched to just small SPG's on the braided HP hoses. (Yes, I know about the recall - they're swapped already). Compass on retractor was kind of bulky and frankly I never really liked it, it was obviously the same unit they also just put bungies on for wearing on a wrist, but I didn't want to do that either since I also wear a dive watch as a backup time/depth unit. Rarely do we get out of sight of the boat, even on trips to the Flower Gardens where navigation is 120% the responsibility of the 'buddy team', but I still didn't want to not carry one. So, this was the obvious first easy project for the new 3D printer. Aside from all the endless projects just making it functional in the first place...:grump: compmnt_assmbled_use2 by rtrski, on Flickr More pics with descriptions of the design approach are in a small set at Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/rtrski/sets/72157632085470014/ Might also work on a 'clip' to wrap around the SPG boot to mount one on the back for the wife, although the SPG isn't on a swivel at the end of the hose, so that might not be the best treatment of it..... p.s. WHOA!!! The new Forum software auto-plays Flickr set links as a slideshow??? Too cool, and a bit showoffy. Sorry, just meant to provide a link for the curious, not force-feed you all. :/
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