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Found 2 results

  1. Hi and greetings from Vanuatu. I am new to the forum and have some queries re the Nauticam TTL Converter for Nikon. I have Nikon 500 with Nauticam housing, nauticam ttl converter, one Z240 inon and one D2000 inon strobes. I also use a big blue 2800 torch as a focus light. I have just made the move to DSLR from an RX100II set up and have never had major problems with strobe output until now (I used TTL only for the Sony) I only recently installed the TTL converter which was ordered with the camera but arrived sometime later. Consequently I have been using manual modes and tried the TTL mode in the last 2 weeks. To my surprise I am finding my shots are very much underexposed. I have been shooting macro with 105mm Nikon lens. In TTL mode I found that increasing strobe power by turning EV switch left made no difference. The settings I had were: Strobe switches on TTL nauticam fibre optic connection flash in camera stetting - front curtain sync Both switches on the TTL converter itself are down (for Inon and TTL) On camera - Menu E – bracketing flash:E.1 Flash Sync Speed 1/250 (NOT auto FP) E.2 Flash Shutter speed 1/60 Camera was showing I-TTL symbol Camera set on Manual – iso 100, films speeds were varied 80-160, F-stops from 11 to 20 Strobes in close to housing, focus light on (white) I subsequently tried the strobes at home and found that when firing quickly, the Z240 would periodically not fire. I changed the physical TTL switch to manual and found I had full control over the strobes using the strobe dials themselves IF the magnets were engaged. Again in TTL mode on the converter - no real difference in output by either camera controls or strobe switches. I am a bit perplexed ed as to the TTL issue and was wondering: - what impact does the focus light have - I had it on high (white light)? - using two different strobes - Z240 more powerful than D2000 - what impact? Certainly it seems the z240 was taking longer to recycle. Also - re the TTL converter module - my understanding is that to change to manual underwater I need to change camera setting E1 to a sync speed of 1/250 (auto FP). I gather the strobe output settings can also be changed in camera by using flash compensation (-3 ev to +1ev?). Presumably this can be done to change the output in TTL mode as well? I have learned through various forums that with the Inon's and Nikon D500 the strobe magnets need to be "on" tpo have manual control. No issue there - but effectively makes the choice of manual or TTl with the D 2000 difficult as the magnet needs to be screwed in before hand whereas the Z240 is easy to change underwater. My query - when the camera is set at 1/250 (auto FP) with magnets engaged - does this mean the strobes are in full manual mode and able to be controlled in camera and by switch regardless of whether the Converter switch inside the housing is set to M or TTL? I am learning as I go. If anyone has experienced similar issues and can offer some advice I would be most appreciative. There are not many people I can ask here in Vanuatu! Best Regards John
  2. I just got my Fix Neo with a red focus light and have experimented (on land). I set the red focus light and used the YS-D1 strobes set at TTL and made the shot. The images still have a red tinge. Is there a method to avoid this red tinge or should I not use the red focus light. I always thought the strobes would wash out the red. BTW I'm using the optical connection on both the strobes with each one connected to the bulkhead housing of the Nauticam 70D. On another topic speaking of YS-D1 - why do they show in the manual to connect one strobe to the bulkhead and the other optical cord to the other YS-D1 strobe rather than connecting both the optical cords to the two optical connections on the bulkhead? Thanks for your input.
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