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Found 18 results

  1. Hi all, I recently purchased some toys while in Germany but I am pretty certain I'll never use so hopefully they will find their way to a new loving home. These are all brand new with original packaging. The following are for sale: Nauticam C815-F Focus Gear for Canon EF 8-15mm F/4L $245, $185OBO Nauticam C163II-F Focus Gear for Canon EF 16-35 F/2.8L ii $225, $165OBO Nauticam NA-5DMKIII Camera Tray $120, $90OBO (This would be good to have as a spare in case the pin breaks or the lever is damaged) Shipping to the US ONLY Please let me know if you have any questions. Happy shopping!
  2. Been using my Olympus 60mm lens and original EM5Mk1 for a few years now. It works fantastic on land and underwater. When I dive with it I set the limiter to the 0.9-.4m setting which makes focusing performance better. This works great with the now older EM5. However, with my new EM1Mk2 the focus limiter doesn't work. On autofocus the lens hunts throughout the entire range. It doesn't matter where the limiter is set, it cycles through the entire range on the EM1. The limiter works properly on the EM5. The lens and both camera bodies are all updated with the latest firmware. A lot of times with the EM5 I would use manual focus and just rock the camera back and forth to find the focus. However, sometimes I would use autofocus and place the focus point right where I wanted it. This usually worked very well and focus was quick with the EM5. However, with the EM1 the focus hunts back and forth throughout it's entire range and sometimes takes a while to find focus. I can replicate the same behavior on land as well. With the EM5 the focus limiter works as intended; however, with the EM1 it is as if the limiter is ignored. Has anyone else dealt with this? Have I missed a setting on the EM1Mk2 that disables the limiter? I looked through the manual but cannot find a mention of the limiter.
  3. Hi all, I am brand new here and recently found this forum searching for information on dome/flat port theory for underwater applications. For my application I am trying to achieve a "one-focus-fits-all" solution - this is both for domes and flat ports. I have to manually adjust focus on land and once submerged in water it cannot be adjusted. The lenses I will be using are fixed focal lengths, most like from 3-8 mm used on small industrial cameras. What I have found out till now is first to adjust the focus to the hyperfocal distance. This distance can be calculated as: H = f^2/N*c+f, where f = focal length N = is f-number (f/D for aperture diameter D) - use D c is circle of confusion for finding the circle of confusion the following can be used: c = D/1500, where D is sensor diameter and d/1500 is used - I read somewhere that d/1500 is commonly used. Now H gives me the hyperfocal distance. Adjusting to this distance should give me an acceptable sharpness from H/2 to infinity - correct? Next up we need to translate this to our underwater ports to achieve the same functionality. It is here I find the difficulties being introduced. Flat ports create a virtual image approximately at the refraction ratio of water and air - correct? This yields 3/4 given that the refraction index of air is 1 and water is 1.333. Would this be as simple as then focusing the lens at 3/4 of hyperfocal distance for a flat dome? Dome ports I find to be more difficult. I have read that as a rule of thumb the infinity distance can be found as: Virtual Image Infinity = (4 * Dome Radius) - (4 * Dome Thickness) However, how does this translate to a hyperfocal distance? I hope that some of you in here can help me clarify this. It would be very useful to have a standard sheet of which one could plug in camera and lens parameters, and then achieve at what distance in air it should be focused to achieve infinity focus using both flat and dome ports. Best, Jesper
  4. 2x i-Torch Pro 6+ video/focus lights with ball mounts and chargers (only have 1 battery, batteries are about 20.00 on amazon) Never flooded, both work excellent. Will sell one for 150.00 or both for 250.00 plus shipping jcdovala@verizon.net
  5. Last June, I purchased an Isotta housing for my D500. I got their standard 60 macro port and a 6.5" dome port plus enough adapters to manage 60, 105, 10.5, 8-15, and 16-85 lenses. My first trial with the housing was at BHB for a week in June. One of the things I noticed right away was that I could not see critical focus through the viewfinder. With macro, I typically get focus close, then move in/out to achieve critical focus on the plane of choice. Couldn't do it. I relied on single point focus and putting the spot where I wanted it. Got results, but really did not like not being able to "see." I tried several things, but nothing improved. I discussed back and forth with Backscatter over the following months - even sent the housing back so they could see the problem. Of course, everything looked fine to them. They lent an Inon 45ยบ finder for a Sea of Cortez trip in September, which worked great - crystal clear focus. During the trip, I had several other photographers try the rig with Isotta's viewfinder. Several could focus just fine, others could not. The difference - bifocals. Those with long-arm disease could not focus; those with younger eyes could. Has anyone else seen this problem with SLR housing viewfinders? My thought at this point is that the Isotta housing creates an apparent image within my "need bifocal" range. I tried focusing through bifocals and have to say that didn't work out so well either. The only dSLR housings that I've used to date have been Ikelite and never had this issue (I still have my D610/Ike housing). Backscatter is throwing in the towel. They've not heard feedback from anyone else with a problem, so it must just be me... Right now, their solution is for me to buy the Inon finder. It was nice, don't get me wrong, just don't think I should be forced into that purchase. Thoughts?
  6. Selling only in kit Panasonic Leica DG Macro-Elmarit 45mm f/2.8 ASPH. MEGA O.I.S. Lens Nauticam Focus Gear for Panasonic 45mm macro Lens ( Nau-36145) In excellent condition and scratch free. With original box and two caps Price is $499 Shipping by EMS (express), shipping cost will be determined depending on purchase (for example to US $30) Paypal or TT (please PP/TT fee on your side) andrey.v.savin@gmail.com Connect by whatsapp +79031313355 or FB messenger i am based in Moscow, Russia my web site www.uwart.pro my instagram @uw.art
  7. For the past year I have been using a Panasonic LX 100 in a Nauticam housing, shooting 4k video and stills with fairly good results. One re-occurring issue that I would like to get resolved is the fact that when visibility becomes less than ideal the shutter release will not activate even though a green light indicates that focus has been achieved. Shooting video is fine and is in focus. Why will the shutter not release when taking stills? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
  8. Caveat: Maybe you all know about this technique and find this thread a bit "ho hum". In which case, please ignore. But, for me, it was an exciting breakthrough that improved my success rate shooting moving subjects. Situation: Panasonic GH4 in a Nauticam NA-GH4 housing with either the 7-14mm, 12-35mm (dome) or the PZ 14-42mm (flat port) shooting video of octopus, cuttlefish and squid in Lembeh. I wanted to be able to shoot these critters "up close" and "on the move" but still keep them in sharp focus. Problem: I don't trust any auto-focus tracking system and have not had reliable success using it with the GH4 underwater, especially in murky conditions. I prefer to use AFL/AEL to lock in focus and exposure for the whole clip. With the camera set to AFS and a small centre focus point, I lock in the focus on the eye of the critter at the start of the clip. But, then the critter starts to move. How do I ensure that the critter's eye stays firmly in the narrow depth of field? Obviously I need to move the camera with the subject, keeping the distance between the critter's eye and the lens at the same distance. But that's quite difficult, especially checking the focus with the small monitor on the back of the GH4. Solution 1 (attach a better monitor): Use a large monitor that has built-in focus peaking like the Shogun. But, Nauticam have not yet released the Shogun housing. And I need to get the footage now. Solution 2 (flip on the GH4's focus peaking): Unfortunately, the GH4's focus peaking only works when the camera is set to manual focus (Panasonic: could this be fixed in a firmware update, please). The lens / port combinations that I'm using don't have manual focus. But (and here is my big breakthrough), the NA-GH4 housing has a MF-AFC-AFS switch in a convenient location. Here's what worked: Before diving, turn on focus peaking in the camera's menu and save it to your favourite UW custom setting. Underwater, set the MF-AFC-AFS switch to AFS and use the rear lever to set AFL to get a sharp lock on the subject's eye. Flip the MF-AFC-AFS switch to MF. The lens stays at the same focus distance as locked in. But now the subject is also covered with focus peaking dots. As the subject moves, move the camera with the subject, ensuring that the focus peaking dots continue to flicker all around the subject's eyes. If it's not moving too fast (e.g. an octopus walking), I was able to keep the subject firmly in the plane of focus (9 times out of 10)... Regards Peter
  9. Hi all, I am ready to make the step from still photography to video. I am using a Nauticam 7d setup. I am looking out for general tips on shooting video with this setup. Also which lens would you prefer? Tokina 10-17 for his quality or sigma 17-70 for his greater zoom range. What would be the first to invest in? *video light *extension ring with focus knob *external monitor *... Any must read books or great workshops on dslr underwater videography? Looking forward to hear some opinions and hear some tips. Thanks in advance!
  10. Hello all, I am not new to underwater photo/video, but I am new to using a digital camera set up, and I'm looking for any advice on the camera focusing set up for a Sony NEX with the 16mm with the VLC-ECF1 fish eye adaptor lens, inside the Nauticam housing with dome port. When I used to film using a Sony PC5 miniDV camera in a Oceanhaus housing with 120deg wide angle port, I used to focus the camera to an object in the distance, leave the camera set to manual focus, and then once inside the housing with the wide angle port, everything from about 1ft / .3m to the distance was in focus. From my testing on land, this doesn't seem to be the case with the NEX camera. The autofocus works well, but I'm concerned in case the focus starts to come in and out when filming underwater, or even worse, focuses on port if I see something in the distance. I cannot find any focus gear for the 16mm lens. Is there some for the Nauticam housing Does anyone have any focus set up tips for this set up? Settings such as centre spot, multi spot, single shot or continuous autofocus etc, or has anyone found a good set up in manual mode? Will it work to focus manually ona distance object and get stuff in focus from 1m onwards? Any help would be great fully apretiated - I'm trying to fill gaps from old techniques to the digital world! LOL! Cheers Tony
  11. Nexus Ports, Extensions and Focus Gear for Nikon 60mm & 105mm Macro Lenses, details, part numbers etc below. Currently located in Australia, willing to ship anywhere at purchasers cost. Selling separately and bundled together with ports, extensions and focus gear for particular lenses. Great condition, absolutely no scratches or blemishes on port, maybe minor external marks but none affecting optics. Please email info@migrationmedia.com.au or within Australia 0481276316 for further details and shipping cost. Asking prices in Australian $, RRP's in US$. Selling the whole lot for $200. See Anthis Nexus website for full product details www.anthisnexus.com. Photos show complete setups to fits both Nikon 60mm lenses and other fits new and old Nikon 105mm. Other extensions can be added to fit other lenses. Also have for sale Nikon AF105mm 2.8D for sale. Ports Front Port FRP105M Part No: 16343 (RRP $266) Asking $100 for complete Nikon 105mm Setup including Multi-Extension MEF83M-5 and focus gear below Front Port FRP60 Part No: 13306 (RRP $191) Asking $100 for complete Nikon 60mm setup with port extensions and focus gear below Port Extensions Port Extension 20mm PE20-7 Part No: 18316 (RRP $164) Port Extension 10mm PE10-5 Part No: 18317 (RRP $164) Port Extension 30mm PE40-5 Part Mo:18336 (RRP $164) Port Multi-Extension MEF83M-5 Part No: 16342 (RRP $695) Gear Focus Gear NAFM60F28 Part No: 28377 (RRP $164) Focus Gear MP105MF Part No: 28303 (RRP $164) Focus Gear NAFM105F28 Part No: 28310 (RRP $164)
  12. Hi all, greetings I've just today been able to do the firmware upgrade on my EM1. Before the upgrade I had the AEL/AFL button assigned as the focus so I could use the back lever on the Nauticam housing. Now after the upgrade it appears that I have lost that ability - assigning the AEL/AFL button as focus has disappeared. Or, is it just me?? If indeed I am no longer able to assign the AEL/AFL button as focus, am I able to revert back to the old firmware. Hope someone is able to point me in the right direction. Cheers - Karen
  13. My set up is: Canon S120, Canon housing, single Inon 1200S strobe mounted on 2 x 5" arms, Fantasea Nano focus LED mounted on cold-shoe top of housing. Issues are: diving in fairly murky water (meaning a lot of floating plankton and debris) and this year, due to violent storms in spring, vis around 3-5m max. Current settings on camera are Manual, Auto focus on, ISO 100, f6.3, shutter speed 1/500, point AE focus, minimum flash power. On strobe the setting is Manual, with magnet in, and flash strength 5.5 Exposure problems - the top third of a lot of photos is over exposed. I've read loads (feeling quite confused) about single strobe positions for macro pix and understood that the closer the subject, the closer the strobe to the camera - this makes sense. However, this does seem to produce a hotspot or flare (not sure which). I've attached a typical photo with above problems I am also having problems with backscatter - due I'm sure to positioning of strobe. I have heard that you set your camera settings before you go in and alter exposure for different shots with the strobe strength..is this the best place from which to start? I tend habitually to take macro shots from around 3-6" away, most often on short animal turf on rock/boulder, aim the focus light directly at subject and use my focus light with shutter halfway pressed down to focus the camera lens ...and from there on I'm lost about how/where to focus the strobe (which doesn't have an aiming light). Can anyone draw a diagram for me from which strobe position and distance from camera to start, given all the above criteria? When sites mention angles of 45degrees, they fail to mention 45degrees from what. I know I'm probably asking too much but some help would be greatly appreciated!
  14. Hi macro enthusiasts! I am having probably a silly problem, but cannot find the solution by myself, so I'd need some advice... My camera is an OM-D EM-5, that I use with an Olympus 60mm macro, all in Nauticam housing+port. This works brilliantly, the camera focuses very well underwater. But when I add my new Subsee+10 dioptre, attached with the Nauticam flip dioptre holder, I cannot manage to get in focus. That brilliant auto focus doesn't work at all anymore. I was expecting some degradation, but not that much. What's your experience with such a setup? Do you shoot everything in manual focus? cheers, Nicolas
  15. I'm using a Sigma 15mm F2.8 EX DG with a Canon 5D in a Nauticam housing with a 4.3" dome and am having problems getting it to focus, auto or manual. The Nauticam chart recommends a 10mm extension, which I always assumed was just to prevent the lens sunshade from hitting the dome; I cut off the sunshade, so I'm not using an extension. I've also read of using a 1.4 extender, which I don't know anything about. Does anyone have experience with this same setup and knows exactly what's required? Thanks!
  16. HI, I am looking for a bit of advice about using the EM5. I was lucky enough to find dolphins yesterday on the way back from my dive. I had about a 10 minute encounter with two bottlenose and snapped as many photos as I could. However, almost all of them were out of focus. I was shooting on Shutter Speed Priority at 60 and 80 with the camera set to auto focus. That is what I used to do with my old camera, a g12, and never had any issues. So my question is: what is the best focus setting to use for quick moving open ocean species like dolphins, mantas, and whale sharks?
  17. Persian Carpet Flatworm doesn't have "eyes" and "head" and its surface is not flat at all. How do you make "eye contact" with this special worm??
  18. I'm confused some books say if you shoot macro, focus manual and others automatic. What is the best way ? I have the older version of the nikon 60mm macro, and sometimes it is a hard timme getting it focused. Somebody experiences with this lens ? Somebody that can tell me the advantage of focus lock ?
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