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Found 18 results

  1. For all we D500 users, there's a firmware update: https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/279.html
  2. Having fallen to the allure of full frame (Nikon D850) I am selling off my trusty Nauticam NA-D500 housing with one of my Nikon D500 DSLR bodies. The housing has seen a considerable amount of use, which as resulted in some of the white paint in the engraved label areas in the housing to be missing along with tarnishing to the housing’s black exterior finish. Beyond that housing has been well cared for, never experienced any leaks, part failures to which it is still 100% working order. What you see in the photos (please see my facebook post – https://www.facebook.com/WaltStearns/media_set?set=a.10214065124485287&type=3)is exactly the condition this housing comes in. The Nikon D500 body that I am packaging with the housing has approximately 30907 shutter actuations, with a very clean, near as you can get mint condition appearance, as it was used exclusively in the housing. This Camera comes with everything it was originally package with including the box, along with one Lexar 32GB XQD card, one SanDisk 32GB Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-I Memory Card and one spare Watsom EN-EL15 model lithium-ion battery. Selling price for everything listed $3000 plus shipping.
  3. A number of useful settings of the Nikon D500 are controlled with the Main and Sub Command dials. These settings can be a bit difficult to manipulate, particularly underwater, as they may require two hands and continuous pressure on a given button. Here are two easy ways that require only one hand to set the Nikon D500 buttons. The first approach uses the Control Panel as the display: Press the button of the chosen setting; its settings appear in the Control Panel, such as setting the WB. Use the Main and Sub Control Dials to make the desired settings. To exit, press the same control button or the shutter release half way. That’s it. The second approach uses the Main View Screen as the display: Press the Info key to access the main screen, then the key of the chosen setting. A menu for that setting automatically pops up in the main view screen, which can be set with the Control Dials. Again, the settings we want to adjust remain on the screen until we exit by pressing that same Setting button. While both approaches produce the same results, the advantages of the Info + Setting on the Main View Screen approach are that, as the main screen is four times larger than the control panel, it is much easier to see it underwater, it requires only one hand, and a simple menu for each function pops up automatically. We need to prepare the D500 menu in two ways: First, to allow the Setting to remain on the screen while we adjust it (ref 1), open Menu > Custom Settings Menu (CSM) > f6 Release button to use dial > ON Second, to give us plenty of time to play with the settings, open Menu > CSM > c4 Menus and Information display > set Monitor off delay to 10 minutes or similar. That’s it to prepare the camera, now for specific settings. Here are some examples of the info + main screen way to adjust a setting: ISO sensitivity setting: Press the info button, then the ISO button. An ISO menu appears, the sub command dial turns the ISO function on or off; the Main command dial sets the ISO value. To exit, press info again, or press the shutter release half way. Focus Point setting: Set the Focus mode lever (front of camera, lower left) to AF. Now, press info, then the AF-mode button to show a Menu to set the AF-area mode/Focus mode. Turn the main command dial for continuous AF-C or for single AF-S. The sub-command dial (top right front) sets the focus area to Single, Auto area AF, Group area AF with 25, 72, 153, and 3D tracking. Exit by pressing the info button. The number of focus points, 55 vs 15, is set with the Menu > CSM > a6 Autofocus. Flash settings: Press info then the flash button: A menu with Flash compensation and Flash Mode will appear. Flash compensation is set with the front, sub command dial. Flash mode is set with the main command dial; be careful with Flash mode as it has a Flash Off option (the previous owner of my D500 had set the flash mode to off, this caused me lots of grief). Here are a few more settings: Press info, then one of the Top 4 left buttons: Qual button: Image quality/size. WB button: White balance preset (d1 -d6) /color temp PRE, K and color grid. Mode button: Exposure mode P,M,A,S. Metering button: Matrix, center weighted, spot and highlight weighted. Press info, then one of the Top 3 right buttons: Red dot button: does nothing. ISO button: please see description above. +/- button (Exposure compensation): Sets the main control dial from +5.0 to -5.0. - These approaches also work for my Nikon D7100 and D800, and probably for similar Nikon models, which I have not tried. In closing, please share more ways to set the D500, as it has sooo many settings... Reference: 1. Nauticam NA-D850 ISO control - Comment by Harbor Seal (Adam Hanlon), Wetpixel 22 Dec 2018. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=63322
  4. Hi, I recently bought the Nikon D500. I live in Maine and hope to take some wide angle photos in my home state. The visibility is terrible 5 to 15 feet. Is it possible to do wide angle in these conditions? I have both the Nikon 10-24mm and Tokina 10-17mm. I also have Sea & Sea Ys-D2 strobes. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
  5. $3800 + shipping BRAND NEW IN THE BOX! ------------------------------- SEACAM silver NIKON D500 with S6 sockets G-PRO VIEWFINDER CP COMPACTPORT Dome Port TOKINA AF 10-17 ZOOM GEAR THE PERFECT underwater wide angle setup for your Nikon D500 and Tokina 10-17mm lens! OVER $7000 US Retail in Gear! Buyer pays for shipping
  6. Looking to purchase a Sea and Sea MDX D500 Housing. Would consider Nauticam as well.
  7. Hi Everyone, I have moved on from a Nikon D300 in a Subal housing to a D500 in a brand new Aquatica AD500. Everything works beautifully, with the exception of my flash. I am banging my head trying to find a fix and was wondering if any of the tech savvy photographers on the forum might take pity on me and offer some advice. The flash is a Nikon SB-800 in a Subal housing connected via a Subtronics cord (Nikonos connectors). The AD500 has two nikonos-type sockets. When connected to the Aquatica AD500/Nikon D500, I have two issues : If I wait for more than 30 seconds or so between shots, I have to take one or two pictures to « wake-up » the flash before it starts triggering properly – i.e. lots of missed opportunities TTL doesn’t work (I normally shoot in manual but TTL is handy when shooting macro or fast moving action). I have used the SB-800 with my old Nikon D300 in a Subal housing for many years and never had these issues. Also, both the flash and the sync cord work perfectly. All four flash switches inside the AD500 housing are down (I've tried to put them up but it makes the situation worth). Many Thanks ! Best regards
  8. Hey folks Quick bit of help needed if anyone knows the answer: I've just got the Subal V2 TTL board for my new ND500 housing. But the hot shoe connector isn't connected to the V2 board and there are several possible plug sockets! Anyone know which is the right one? A photo of the board is attached. And does anyone know the right DIP switch settings for the Inon Z240? I can't find any instruction sheet for the V2. I've emailed Subal but need a quick reply. I'm about to leave on a dive trip! Thanks! Tim
  9. I've just taken delivery of a Nikon D500 and am trying to work out how to upload RAW files from a Lexar XQD card through a Sony XQD card reader into Lightroom Classic. Lightroom Classic (and my iMac) see the files and they appear in the LR Import module; but when I click "Import" nothing happens. I get the message "Copy and Import" in the Import LR module but the indicator never moves and no images appear. But if I download all the files into a folder on my Desktop and import them through the LR Classic Import module - no problem. So it's not a problem of LR being unable to read the D500 NEF files. And it doesn't seem to be that the iMac can't read the Sony XQD card reader or Lexar XQD card. So why can't I import files directly off the Lexar card into Lightroom? Any thoughts?
  10. Hi all, I wonder if I'm a complete idiot and there's something obvious that I'm missing, but my LED flash trigger won't trigger my TS-D1 and YS-D2. I have the Aquatica AD500 with the optical ports for the flash trigger. The trigger fires my strobes just fine when the camera's out of the housing but not when it's in the housing. It looks to me that this is because the LEDs on the trigger are a long way off lining up with the optical ports on the housing when the camera is installed - so that there's little or no light from the trigger LEDs actually traveling along the optical cables. The flash trigger part number is 18956, which seems to be for the Sony a7 II, a7R II & a7S II (doesn't mention Nikon D500). Could I have the wrong flash trigger? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks, Geoff
  11. As a primary wide angle shooter it has been years since I have bought a new macro lens. To date I use the 60mm Nikkor and often add the Kenko 1.4x teleconverter for extra reach. I have had the older style Nikkor 105mm and sold it as I didnt get much as the AF hunted around. I have been looking at the Tokina 100mm macro as a replacement for the old 105mm for an upcomming macro trip to Tulamben in a few weeks and it has recieved a few good reviews for on land use with price point which suited me more as I do not do much macro photography and didnt want to invest more money in lenes that I may not use often. First thing that I noticed when I attached the Tokina 100mm to the D500 was how quick AF locked on and with the large amount of focus points available it was easy to set up focus on the small critters eyes/fave when composing a shot. Quick moving subjects when one wouldnt bother with before where now accessable as the Tokina and D500 combination works. This quick focus was a blessing as the local conditions where surgy and often hard to steady oneself for close up shots. The Tokina 100mm was housed behind the Aquatica AF macro port with extension #18462 (the same as I use with the 60mm and 1.4x TC combo). Shooting macro with Aquaview external viewfinder also makes ease of pin point focusing. I will be hopefully playing with the Aquatica +5 and +10 with Aqautica close up system when in Bali as I want to try my hand at getting some supermacro subjects like Shean the Sheep and friends. Itorch videopro 6 video lights used on low power provided focusing light. Here are some sample photos taken in the past couple of days with the Tokina 100mm and Nikon D500. Photos are straight from the camera only watermarked and resized to give an idea of performance before editing. Regards Mark orangutan crab f14, 1/200th, ISO200 Yellow Boxfish f14 1/160th ISO160 this guy was very flighty
  12. For sale is a new Nikon D500 DSLR Camera. The camera come new and in the box with all the original accessories, manual, and warranty card. I am looking for 1700 US$ ore 2300 AUD$ cash for the camera. The camera are new and never used ore unpacked!! The camera is located in Sydney and would be nice if you can meet up, I also have a brand new Nikon AF-S Micro Nikkor 60mm f/2.8G ED Lens for sale Asking 500 US$ ore 690 AUD$ for it. Never used.. please email me; andnyb@gmail.com Thanks for looking!
  13. Hi, The sea&sea optical ttl converter for the nikon d500 and mdx-d500 housing. I've been trying to get some information from S&S about the since 6 months promised TTL converter but no luck, so i wonder if there is anybody here ho had heard anything about it. a lite background story, in june there was information that the old d7100/d800 converter should work but in august it was changed to a new software was developing, now 6 months later there is no information what so ever and impossible to get any answers from S&S. So I wonder if S&S is abanding the Nikon cameras and only developing for Canon now as they announces a date to their ttl converters whit in a month from the release of the housing.
  14. After a week or so of bad weather here locally I had the chance to dive with my favourite lens the Nikkor 10.5mm FE and my new Nikon D500 housed in an Aquatica AD500. Its taking a few dives to get used to the button layout but I am getting there. Here are few sample test shots which are straight from the camera and have only been sized and watermarked. Conditions were a little challenging as there was good current today and low vis. f9 1/200th ISO125
  15. Local diving conditions have reduced some what this week with vis 5-6m with current and alot of particle/weed in the water. Under these conditions I decided to try the Aquatica 100mm Minidome and extension #48453 on my D500 housing and use with the Tokina 10-17mm with Kenko 1.4x teleconverter and try and get some CFWA. The idea was to greatly reduce the working distance in the low vis on some local subjects and see how the minidome and Tokina 10-17mm with a teleconverter works. I dont often use the minidome locally as I prefer the larger 8 inch Dome due to the balance and also the ease of aligning the camera for stetched out shooting from the hip style of shooting often used. So far the Aquatica AD500 housing has worked flawlessly with only a couple of teething issues with the D500 camera itself. Namely rear LCD brightness and issue with battery life (turned off features like Wi-Fi and touch screen which solved the problem) and sent back older En-el15 batteries to Nikon for free replacement to the updated batteries for the D500 (sent back 4 older batteries from my D7000 and hopefully getting 4 brand new ones for the D500). Regards Mark
  16. I recently did multiple shark dives in Yap with my new d500 in a Nauticam housing.Being a previous full frame shooter I used my nikkor 16-35mm lens along with the Nauticam 8.5" dome and the 70mm ext. ring recommended in the Nauticam port chart.All of my images were soft-even some taken of a stationary moray eel on site.I tested the lens/port/ext. ring combo on land and the resulting images were sharp.I subsequently shot the sharks using a 20mm nikkor,and a 60mm nikkor ,and a 15mm sigma fisheye with good results.I discussed this phenomenon with a Nauticam rep.and his suggestion was to try adding another 20mm ext. ring to the combo.Anybody have any similar experiences/suggestions/solutions? D.K.S
  17. I have been shooting my D500 in a Aquatica AD500 housing for a week and I have to say I am impressed with both the camera and the housings performance. Previously I have been shooting with a Nikon D7000 in an Aquatica and have been waiting like a lot of people for a replacement and when I saw the specs of this camera I pre-ordered both the camera and housing straight away. Camera arrived first and first thing I wanted to play with was the 10fps on land based wildlife and surfers and this is where I found that one requires XQD2 cards to be able to achieve 10fps for 200 shots. Fast SD cards were only able to shoot 15 or so frames before the buffer became bogged down but once I recieved the Lexar PRO XGD2 card it was awesome to be able to shoot 10fps for total of 200 shots (this is only in RAW) if you shoot RAW with JPG the buffer only holds 75 shots (something to think about if your like me who likes to shoot both RAW and JPG at the same time). AF on land as everyone has also reported is fast and very accurate. I also had an issue with the D500 raw (NEF) files not compatable with PS CS6 and I had to convert the files to DNG with a free adobe RAW to DNG converter. Last week my Aquatica AD500 housing arrived and straight away I compared it with my Aquaitca AD7000 housing and sure enough the housing is phyiscally bigger to fit the bigger D500 body. Actually the larger size of the housing is of benefit as rear view screen is slight larger and the Aquaview viewfinder doesnt get in the way as much like it did for the Nikon D7000. I noticed a few improvements to the Aquatica AD7000 with a change in design for the port lock, control dial pullies changed from plastic to machine alloy, reduction of C-clips on control buttons and over all easy access to control buttons if one requires a field service. A big improvement is the design of the switch for video which was an issue on the AD7000 as video lever of the D7000 was on a spring style setup and after alot of use became sticky on the camera body itself. Right hand side control buttons on the AD500 are accessable with a single hand and a well thought out ISO button which has lever which runs close to the right hand grip for easy ISO change. Adition of Aquatica's Surveyor moisture and vacuum sensor and vacuum valve is one of the best investments which was aded to my AD500. Vacuum systems are a must in my opinion and have saved me on a few occasions from a fatal flood. The housing has its own little window where you can monitor the system during the dive and it assuring to see the light green light blinking away during the dive telling you everything is all well. Having a housing machined out of a single block of alloy and having all the control buttons made of metal was the reason why I continued to use Aquatica as I honestly I rack up several hundred dives on my housings. The first dive with my D500 I noticed straight away that the AD500 housing was a fraction lighter underwater than my AD7000 setup (I use the 8 inch dome, Aquaview viewfinder, 2x Ikelites DS161, ULCS bouyancy arms 6/9inch with Aquaitca arm clamps) which I was surprised as the housing is phyiscally bigger. It also took me a while to get familiar with the location of the control buttons as you would expect with a new camera. The moving of the OK button to the left hand side controls took a little while to get used to as well as the record button now on a control lever on the right hand side. One thing I did notice was during review on the rear screen of the D500 after each shot showed my images were darker than I what I was expecting (compared to the D7000) and first few dives had me adjusting the ISO and shutter speed but when it came to post processing on the big screen the shots were significately brighter to start with. Luckly the D500 has an adjustable brightness for the rear screen. Another great feature with the D500 is in video mode the camera has dedicated settings for video, which once set you can move back to stills without having to change settings. The liveview screen when shooting video also corrispondes to actual settings you have at the time, so for example when your ISO is too low in darker conditions your viewview screen will be dark and you can actually see the screen brighten with the adjustment of the ISO. This wasnt a feature on the D7000 where you had to guess which was the best ISO to shoot at. Having a dedicated video setting is great for shooting video on the fly and cant wait to play with it more in the near future. First dives on the AD500 were with the Tokina 10-17mm behind a 8 inch Aquatica dome with Dual Ikelite DS161. This setup is main setup as I mainly shoot large anmals and rarely move of 10mm. I used AF-S and first few dives I used single point AF area mode as this was the most successful setup when I used the Tokina 10-17mm with the D7000. How ever I did end up missing some real close up shots of a large Loggerhead Turtles as they were too close and shooting with one hand outstretched. The single centre point locked onto the animals neck and its head was slightly out of focus. I have since tried the Group AF area and this gave a large area to get a good focus on especially on big animals up close. As always with a new camera you start off with what work with previous model and then play the trail and error game to see what actually works and what doesnt. I will add in following post some unedited jpgs staight from the camera to give everyone an actual idea of what the Nikon D500 can actually produce. I will try and post some macro in the near future but the wide angle diving here at home is excellent at the moment and its hard to shoot macro when you have sharks and big animals right in front of you. Regards Mark
  18. Hello Wetpixel! Initially I posted my question on this thread but it would probably deserve a dedicated discussion. My setup: Two Inon Z240 Type IV strobes, setup to be triggered via fiber optic cables (cables attached, working on previous Nauticam DSLR housing). Shooting fully in Manual mode, strobe outputs controlled manually via the strob knobs (not using TTL). Nikon D500 camera, in Nauticam housing. Because D500 doesn't have internal flash, Nauticam's new external flash triggering system is used, and connected to the D500 via a hot shoe. See here under section "External Flash Triggering" - i am NOT using the optional TTL circuitry, just the baseline one, which works in manual mode only. The problem: Inons don't fire My investigations so far: I am pretty sure the Inons are setup properly (i've switched from TTL shooting to Manual a while ago), and in fact i have been switching the fiber optics from the D500 housing to the D300s housing which i still have, and with the D300s Nauticam housing both strobes fire properly. So clearly the communication between NA-D500 housing and the Inons is not right. I made sure the NA-D500 emits a light signal: i unplugged the fiber optics and looked through the 2 "windows" and, surprise, they both emit a (strong) red light. So i confirmed the housing produces some light. Now i checked on the other end of the fiber optic cables (strobe side), and i do see the red light properly coming through the optical cable, so for me the fiber optic cables are fine - anyways they work perfectly with NA-D300s housing (triggered by the D300s' internal flash. My theories/open question so far: is it normal that the Nauticam LED flash triggering system emits red light? As far as i know LEDs consume fewer power when emitting white/blueish light. are Inon Z240 type 4 strobes supposed to work with a red light when using fiber optics as a trigger? I would be surprised that this very popular strobe model isn't compatible with the new Nauticam LED flash triggering system, but i just don't know. Can anybody help me figure out why it is not working, and how to fix this? I believe the NA-D5 housing uses the exact same strobe triggering system, so maybe some D5 shooters could advice? Some would say RTFM, but in fact the NA-D500 manual is still being written, that's one of the funny aspects of being a very early adopter cheers Nicolas
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