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Found 9 results

  1. Nauticam NA-EM5 + Olympus OMD-EM5 set + parts I'm fully selling my spare parts UWP set which is now useless. Everything is located in French Polynesia but international delivery is easy and trackable. 1/ Housing Nauticam NA-EM5 #17804 700€ Entirely maintained and operational. External scratches due to use. Including Nauticam 2-handles tray and leak detector. 2/ Nauticam NA-EM5 LCD Window for Nauticam Enhanced Viewfinder #17851 100€ 3/ Nauticam Strobe Mounting Ball + Handle for Easitray & Flexitray 25€ Brand new 4/ Nauticam Shutter Release Extension for Compact/MIL Housing #25200 40€ Brand new 5/ Nauticam Leak detection system (from NA-EM5) 10€ 6/ Olympus OMD-EM5 body (silver model) 250€ Including 2 batteries, charger and strobe. 7/ Panasonic LUMIX G 14mm F2.5 F/2.5 ASPH AF LENS SILVER H-H014 120€ Free UV filter and neoprene pouch. A good partner for UW photography 8/ UWL 2 balls clamp 10€/pc 4 available 9/ UWL 3 balls clamp 15€/pc 2 available 10/ INON 2 balls clamp 20€ 11/ IKELITE 2 balls clamp 15€ 2 available 12/ SUBAL ball mount 10€/pc 2 available 13/ IKELITE 6" arm 15€/pc 2 available 14/ UWL 8" arm 20€/pc Brand new 2 available 15/ SEA&SEA 8" arm 20€ 16/ INON 8" arm 20€/pc 2 available Good price for multi items buyers though pm. Feel free to ask more details.
  2. For sale 4" WA port for Nauticam. Item 36137. For Olympus OMD EM1, EM5, Sony mirrorless etc etc. Compatible with the following lenses: Port for 1) Sony SEL1855 E 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS 2) Olympus M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 12-50mm f/3.5-6.3 EZ (36147 zoom gear cannot be used) 3) Olympus M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 14-42mm F3.5-5.6 II R 4) Panasonic LUMIX G VARIO 14-42mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH. MEGA O.I.S. 5) Olympus M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 9-18mm F4.0-5.6 Very light use. Complete with original packaging and neoprene port cover. Perfect condtion. Will post anywhere. New price for this item is currently about US$460 excl. tax and shipping. Will accept US$295 / EUR 260 / GB£230 all prices incl. shipping.
  3. I am upgrading to the Olympus OMD EM-1 Mk II so selling my E-M1 camera with the Nauticam Housing. All in perfect working condition and takes great pictures. Buyer will need to add arms, strobes, and ports. Excellent condition: - Nauticam NA-EM1 housing with Vacuum Valve (no Ports) - Olympus OMD EM-1 camera with 12-50mm Macro Kit lens, flash, charger, battery and strap Original price: - Housing - 2,070 USD (Includes Vacuum Leak Valve) - Camera - 1,299 USD (With lens) Total - 3,366 USD Sell price package housing, camera and Lens - 1,790 USD or best offer Note that I am currently in Thailand and will travel to US beginning of April. Can ship for free in the US when I am there or internationally at a fee. Payment accepted via PayPal
  4. Hi I would like to buy a housing with macro port and dome port for my Oly OMD EM1 camera. I prefer the Subal, nauticam or olympus housings, but everything is interesting at the moment. If you have a housing you like to sell please send me a message. If you know about someone or a dealer that sell the house at low price please inform me. Thank you
  5. FOR SALE Nauticam NA-EM1 housing with offset vacuum valve incorporating Nikonos V type flash bulkhead. ZEN DP-170 - 170mm (7") Optical Glass Dome Port c/w extension for Panny 7-14mm. Nauticam flat port for 60mm macro and/or 9-18mm wide anbgle lenses. Also the following lenses: Olympus M Zuiko ED 9-18mm f/4.0-5.6 Lens + Nauticam zoom gear Panasonic Lumix 7-14mm f4 + Nauticam zoom gear Olympus M. Zuiko Digital ED 60mm f2.8 Macro Micro 4:3 Lens Light to moderate use. Various accesories including vacuum pump, spares inc o-rings. Price and photos to follow later. Will ship world wide.All in excellent condition, purchased new between June 2014 and June 2015.
  6. Hi All, I just came back from a trip to the Philippines (amazing btw) and I was upset that my setup E-PL3 + 2 x YS-01 was unable to shoot faster than 5 sec between shots. the main reason is that I'm using TTL, so the internal flash of the camera needs to recharge fully every time, so after thinking on many solutions, I manage to get a good working solution to shoot as fast as 1 sec between shots without loosing the TTL, on the way, I managed to save battery life of the camera, and some will say even reduce the chance of fogging since the internal flash is not heating the housing. So, how did I do it? simply, we all know that we don't really need the internal flash, just the external strobes, we need the internal flash to signal the TTL, that's all, so I just lowered the flash to 1/10 of its power. I'll give a small explanation to those who don't know how the flash works, if you do want and you just want to see the MOD jump ahead. Ok, so I'll try to simplify all the technical details so some of the things here will be not 100% correct, but just close enough. We have the flash bulb, to activate it we need power, the main problem is that to get to such a strong intensity we need strong power, and we only have a small battery in the camera, so we will use a simple device called capacitor, capacitors are devices that holds energy, so to "fill up" the capacitor with energy, takes time, the bigger the capacitor the longer the time it takes to fill it with energy, so all I had to do is replace the big capacitor with a small one, that's all. now my flash is very week (we had a 102uF capacitor, I used 10uF so 1/10 the strength [yeah yeah I know it is not linear but still you get the idea]). THE MOD, I'm using the E-PL3 that uses the same flash system as the OMD and other PEN units, but I believe it can be done to any flash. Full Flash before the mod: Full Flash after the mod: our flash is FL-LM1 or the FL-LM2. if you disconnect it from the camera, you will see there are two small bolts, when you open them up, you can see the whole flash system, there are two capacitors, one is the triggering (small one, can get to 4000v) and the second one, the one that we are interested in is the big one, 330v 102uf. THE FLASH: BEFORE YOU TOUCH IT! the capacitor is charged! that means it has 330v in it, be careful, you should discharge it first (how? if you don't know better not to do it ). so you can see all you need to do is take a new capacitor, solder it to the same wires with the same connectivity, and you are done, I've checked few capacitors before I ended up with this one - 350V 10uF, (No need to go higher - 10uF works 100% I get green light on my strobes every shot) I've tried also 1uF, it was too weak, you could see the flash firing, but couldn't get TTL to work 100%, so I guess you can find a better value between 10-1 but I'm happy with the 10uF. Old capacitor Vs New capacitor (smaller one is the new one) So now I bought a new flash on ebay, and I have one for "land" use (not modified) and one for underwater use. Total price of the mod, 0.5$ capacitor + 35$ used FL-LM1 total 35.5$! I can only give you one more tip, if you buy a new flash, buy in a different color (if you have silver camera, buy black and vice versa), so you could differentiate between them .
  7. Hi macro enthusiasts! I am having probably a silly problem, but cannot find the solution by myself, so I'd need some advice... My camera is an OM-D EM-5, that I use with an Olympus 60mm macro, all in Nauticam housing+port. This works brilliantly, the camera focuses very well underwater. But when I add my new Subsee+10 dioptre, attached with the Nauticam flip dioptre holder, I cannot manage to get in focus. That brilliant auto focus doesn't work at all anymore. I was expecting some degradation, but not that much. What's your experience with such a setup? Do you shoot everything in manual focus? cheers, Nicolas
  8. Hello Everyone, I'm looking to buy a housing for my camera, if anybody is interested in selling one please let me know. cheers!
  9. Hi all, I just switched from Canon 7D to Oly OMD. Really like the versatility of the camera, but also got some glitches from my previous experiences with it as well. The housing I own is Nauticam. The problem is that, when I want to switch from shooting stills to video mode, I just push the recording button. This would trigger the video recording function of the camera; however, the problem is that the aperture & shutter speed settings do not follow into the video mode. More specifically, It looks like pushing the video recording button would record the video using the "P" mode with average exposure metering. For example, I always shoot stills with underexposed ambient so the subject would be emphasize and lit by strobes, but when I hit the recording mode, the water suddenly become much lighter blue with a very pale subject. For now, the only way for me to manually configure the exposure of the video is to turn the dial wheel of the camera to its designate video capturing mode, which is a bit troublesome. Is there an easier way to switch from shooting stills to video capturing while retaining the setting from 'M' mode of the camera? By the way, here is the footage of a thresher shark taken with OMD using the P? mode.
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