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Found 9 results

  1. VERY Good condition Nauticam NA-GH5 housing - with Nauticam M14 vacuum valve II - with Nauticam optical mini trigger for Panasonic - wIth 2 pcs F.I.T. multi base w/arms (two 1-inch ball mount adapter each) It is my own housing. Bought new, never flooded, never repaired, never dropped Everything works great and every week I immerse myself in this box. All photos for the last 3-5 months in my instagram @uw.art taken with it incl. cap, spare o-ring, o-ring remover, cloth. Retractor for gift Price $2179 for all + international shipping from Philippines ($57 to US) without box. I have original Nauticam bag in Russia (+ 49 US$ can be send separate) Additional photo by request Location : near Dauin, Negros Oriental If you like to buy m4/3 lens i have for sale mint condition - Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 8mm f/1.8 Fisheye PRO = US$ 669 - Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 30mm f/3.5 Macro Lens = US$ 199 - Panasonic Leica DG Summilux 25mm f/1.4 ASPH = US$ 359 Also i have for sale F.I.T. 4.33'' Optical Glass Dome Port with 20mm N85 Nauticam extension (for use w/8mm m.Zuiko 1.8 fisheye) = US$ 549 (no one scratches on the glass) + neoprene cap = great for Close Focus Wide Angle ALL FIX PRICE
  2. I just got my new FA6500 v2 housing which comes with a vacuum safety system (awesome Fantasea!). I was using the original Fantasea FA6500 for about 2.5 years. I wanted to service my old one and also get a vacuum system, but it was cheap enough to just buy another one (and have a backup housing). I rely on the LEG trigger because Sony A6500/A6300 has no manual internal flash control and the recycle time is pants. Using the internal flash to trigger the strobes is ok if you take 30 pics on a dive, but useless for those situations when you're in a feeding frenzy of activity and need to take lots of shots in a short period of time to get a good one. I read that Fantasea are bringing out the FA-3 LED trigger which is compatible with the new housing, so far it is not available yet in Australia. Besides, I was bummed but the idea of having to spend another $300 for an item I already own that is now useless to me. At first it appears to fit, but when testing I noticed that the addition of the vaccum system inside the housing (when closed) is pushing against the LED trigger and moving the camera slightly forwards in the housing, which meant that some of the controls weren't working. Fortunately I had a spare FA-2 trigger that was giving me problems to experiment with. Fantasea had kindly send me a replacement a year or two ago because I think I just got one with a factory defect. I decided to try modifying the LED casing to make it fit. First I removed the electrics and sanded down the back, removing about 1mm of the plastic. This didn't work. So using blue-tak, I worked out where the vacuum valve was pushing against the trigger's casing. (Should have done this step first!) Turns out it is just above the on/off switch on the trigger. So using a carpet knife and sandpaper, I removed some more of the casing. After testing, I covered the hole with electrical tape to provide a barrier to dust and reseal it. Works perfectly now. FYI, you don't have to remove the electrics for this procedure, just remove the top cover.
  3. Hi friends, I'm considering a Sony A6500 in a Nauticam housing, but I have a lot of doubts about the strobes. 1- I want to use my actual Ikelite strobes DS160 and DS161. It seems the TTL will work only with fiber optic cables, am I wrong? 2- If that is true, there is no Nauticam led trigger to avoid the recycle time of the internal camera flashlight. Do someone knows if the Fantasea one (http://www.fantasea.com/s.nl/it.A/id.748/.f) will WORK and FIT into Nauticam A6500 housing?? 3- If in the future i want to replace the Ikelite strobes for Inon Z330 or Z240: can I use the same fiber optic cables? do i have to purchase anything else? Sorry if someone thinks these are silly questions, but I'm coming from a Nikon reflex, Ikelite housing and wired strobes, so I'm really lost in the compatibility setup, changing EVERYTHING. Any answer will be very helpfull for me, thanks!! Albert
  4. Has anyone any experience of the Anglerfish Remote Trigger? http://www.anglerfishlighting.ca/remote-trigger-v30.html This looks like an excellent solution for the irritating problem of trying to keep a snoot into the right position. I'd want to be able to fire an Inon Z240 optically - and I'm currently using Inon fibre optic cables. Thanks!
  5. Aloha, I bought these for one project (shooting a wedding from inside a shark tank), tested them in my pool, shoot cancelled and now they just sit. I feel like I'll regret this, but want to move the money into other gear. 2 Water Wizard housings: $260 each. $500 for both. They are $320 new right now at Backscatter. 2 Pocketwizard Plus 3's: $90 each. $160 for both. They are $125 new right now at BH. 2 15' Ikelite extension cables: $70 each. $120 for both. They are $99 right now at Backscatter. Or take all of it for $700. Shipping included to the US, can work out international. If you aren't familiar, these are used to wirelessly trigger strobes from in the water and they work really well. Great solution if you have the need: http://aquatica.ca/en/tlc_water_wizard.html Thanks, please let me know if you have any questions! Lyle
  6. Hi, all. I bought an LED TTL trigger with my new housing and it requires extra-thick, extra-expensive Sea & Sea FO cables. I have two like-new medium-length Sea & Sea FO cables with 90 degree Sea & Sea tips, and one new Bluewater FO cable with straight tips and removable Sea & Sea adapters. They are in perfect condition. If you are not using an LED trigger, these should work just fine for you (if you don't need specialty tips). I've been using them with a Nauticam housing and Sea & Sea strobes and have never had a misfire. Will sell them for $25 each or $70 for the lot if you pay for postage from Santa Cruz, California. That's less than half the retail price.
  7. I'm looking for a few of the older Ikelite EV Controller's for a reasonable price along with some DS125's as well. If you have either of these and would like to sell them, Please let me know and we'll see if I can make my bank account smaller and your's larger. Photo from Divestock
  8. Hello! I am interested in doing some remote strobe work but I haven't been able to find a way to trigger my strobes remotely. I have read reviews on the Triggerfish and Seacam remote triggers, but they don't seem to be available for purchase. I use Sea&Sea YS-D1 or YS-D2 strobes. Ideally, I would like an optical trigger that will plug into the bulkhead using a sync cable. A fiber optic cable would work as well, but either solution would have to mate with my Sea&Sea strobes. I am not opposed to purchasing a dedicated strobe for this purpose, as I have heard that the INON Z240's have an optical sensor, but also that they might fire unexpectedly or not at all, depending on how light reaches the sensor. Is there a remote strobe solution out there? Does anyone have one they are no longer using for sale? Any other ideas? (BTW, I'm not interested in using continuous light, such as video lights unless it is my last and only hope.)
  9. Hello people, This is my second thread on this forum in six month. The first was to ask for help for my choice of underwater housing for my canon 5DmkII. You helped me to chose the Ikelite model. I use it in artificial waters (swimming pools) for portraits. My avatar is an ilustration of it made by my girflriend with a nikon coolpix AW100. my gallery can ben found here : https://plus.google.com/photos/107511759174870952997/albums/5703530631076161553 I work "well" with sun and natural lights in my pools, and that's really fun, but I would like to go up and control my own lights. I have two choices : continuous lights and triggered lights. About continuous lights, I have spots underwater (minimum control, white balance not easy) and spots out of water. That's the easy way. About triggered lights : I have nothing. Not underwater, not out of water. That's the hard way. My question : What can I use for triggering the slaves flashes ? I see two ways : 1 : remote triggering by wireless or cable signal. 2 : slave/master triggering with a main flash accorded to the ikelite housing. Point 2 is quite "easy" I suppose : All I have to buy is ikelite flashes with arms and use them as trigger. But I would like to consider point 1. The question, more specialy, is : is there a remote device or a cable device or something that I can adapt to the ikelite and has someone made it before me and could help me with those tricks ? I thank you in advance for your help and hope it is the right forum. I hesitate to post in the technical forum but I thought it was quite a newbie question...
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