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Hey everyone! I am a wildlife photographer and diving enthusiast, and I finally want to combine both of these passions. I have to admit that I am a bit overwhelmed by trying to figure out all of the gear I’ll need in order to do so, and I am thus seeking a little bit of help with some questions and with ensuring I don’t make any mistakes buying my first round of gear. If I state anything wrong in my post please correct me, as I am here to learn! Camera I own a Sony a1 Camera. Lenses From my research, the 2 most important lenses for underwater photography are a wide-angle and a macro lens. I currently don’t own a macro lens, but I would probably buy the Sony FE 90mm F2.8 macro lens sometime in the future. For now, I want to start with a wide-angle setup. From my understanding, the Sony 16-35mm F4 is highly recommended. I already own the Sony - FE 16-35mm F2.8 GM and believe I should be able to find a suitable dome for it? Housing I have been researching different housing options and so far there are 3 housings I am debating: Ikelite 200DL Underwater Housing: This is the cheapest option, with the biggest downside being that it’s heavier and not as sturdy as a full aluminium housing. Nauticam Sony a1 & a7S III Underwater Housing NA-α1: The most expensive option. With Nauticam being the biggest player in the underwater housing world, it seems to be an amazing option with the only “downside” being the price and that it’s hard to fix any problems with it myself, since the internal workings are very complex. Aquatica Sony a1 Underwater Housing: Priced between the Ikelite and the Nauticam. What I currently think may be the best option for me- if anyone has any experience with this housing, or a reason I shouldn’t get it, I would love to know more! Strobes and TTL This is what I’m struggling most with. I tried to make a list of all of the gear I need for a full working wide-angle set-up with an Ikelite Housing and Ikelite Strobes: 200DL Underwater Housing for Sony a1, a7S III Mirrorless Digital Right Hand Quick Release Handle with Extension Vacuum Pump with Gauge ikelite DL 8" Dome Port for Wide-Angle and Zoom Lenses in DSLR and Mirrorless Housings ikelite DL 28mm Port Extension DL 50mm Port Extension Zoom / Focus Gear 5509.16 Ikelite Anti-Reflection Ring for Sony FE 16-35mm f/2.8 (Type I) GM Lens in Underwater Dome Port 2x Ikelite DS-161 Strobe with NiMh Battery DL2 DS Link Sony TTL Converter Ikelite ST1 Hotshoe Kit Sync Cord Two Ikelite Strobes to Ikelite Bulkhead 2x Wide Angle Ball Arm for Quick Release Handle So what I am not completely understanding is: Do I need the DL2 DS Link Sony TTL Converter Ikelite ST1 Hotshoe Kit and the Sync Cord Two Ikelite Strobes to Ikelite Bulkhead to make the Strobes and TTL work? If I use the Aquatica Sony a1 Underwater Housing, what would my set-up look like and what dome port can I use? Apparently, Aquatica works with Ikelite Strobes TTL? Do I also need the Ikelite Hotshoe Kit and Sync Cord or is something like this already included in the underwater housing? Could someone help me with a list of suitable strobes, the required cabels and TTL adapters and with a dome for the Sony - FE 16-35mm F2.8 GM when using the Aquatica Sony a1 Underwater Housing? Also, does it even make sense for me to invest this amount of money at the start and take my a1 underwater? Since I already own the G1 it feels like it, but I know it’s a big and expensive set-up. So far, I have only used a GoPro underwater and I was debating if I should start “smaller” before going for an a1 Housing. Maybe a point and shoot like the Olympus Tough TG + Housing or a cheaper Sony full-frame camera. Perhaps someone with a bit more experience could help guide me on what the best option is. I appreciate any help!
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I've got a Subal V3 TTL board for Nikon for sale. It's the perfect companion if you have a Nikon camera which does not have a built-in flash, so D850, D500. The board will provide manual and TTL flash control to either fibre optic connections or sync cords. The choice of manual or TTL can be changed easily underwater. This is the board only and does not include LED cables which are easily available for the usual Subal dealers. I will put new batteries in (2x CR2032) and will include the simple instruction sheet. The boards are €474/$462 new. I'm looking for €325/$325 plus postage. It's advertised as being able to operate with a wide range of strobes including: Sea & Sea YS-D1• Sea & Sea YS-D2• Sea & Sea YS-250• Inon Z240• Inon D-2000• Inon S-2000• Ikelite DS161• Ikelite DS61 I've certainly used it with Inon Z240s and Retras. No problem at all! PM me for more info or to discuss. Best wishes, folks
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I recently upgraded my old Canon 7D setup to a Canon R5. I really enjoy using the new camera and the Nauticam housing, but I have problems with my two Inon z240 type 4 strobes. With my Canon 7D, I used the internal pop-up flash and fiber optic cables to trigger the strobes. I mostly used TTL, which I found worked very well with this setup and just dealing in the +/- exposure on the strobes. I use inon fiber optic cables. Since TTL worked quite well for me with the 7D, I thought it would be nice to still have that option with my new R5 setup, so I bought a Nauticam TTL flash trigger for Canon to trigger the strobes, But when I try shooting anything in TTL mode with the R5, I’m getting pretty underexposed images. The z240s are set to STTL, and the other dial to B (also tried increasing the strobe power by turning it counter clockwise) . The pre-flash button is in the out position. (I also tried the in position by that underexposes even more). It’s about 2-3 stops underexposed if using f16, but if I switch to f2.8, then they look somewhat better. Anyway, I got a little tired of fiddling around in the TTL mode, so I decided to try out using manual mode instead for the strobes. That sort of works, up to about 25% power (right dial between 11 and 8). If I move it to 11 (50% power), or set the flash to full then I get basically no flash output. (pre-flash button is in the in position). I tried the strobes again on my 7D and they are able to fire at high output in TTL mode, so the flash part is working fine. I googled around for this problem and found several old post describing corroded magnets in the pre-flash switch, which seem to precisely describe my problem in manual mode. (I can also mention that full dumb does actually not work on the 7D, I just never discovered until now). The strobes are 8 and 6 years old. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/48381-misbehaving-inon-strobe/ https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/43696-z240-manual-problem/ So I have a couple of questions: Is there a TTL trigger that works well with the R5 and z240 strobes? Or does anybody have any suggestions on how to get the Nauticam one to work properly? Second question: If I bought a manual only flash trigger, would that allow my z240s to work properly in manual mode without the fix for the magnets? I could also try to fix the strobes, but I’m not exactly sure how to. I’m afraid of opening up the button and then not being able to close it properly again and then having no working strobes. I have tried sending the links to the forum posts to the shop where I bought the Inons, to see if they could fix them, but that didn’t seem like the case. Lastly, I could also buy new strobes, but I would rather not spend the money of those at the moment, if I can get the Inons to work again. Thanks in advance if anybody can offer any advice or insights -
Selling my whole rig. Haven’t dove it enough to justify keeping it. I posted it previously as a package, but didn’t have much interest. I’m now willing to sell individual pieces. Please review the list below and PM me if you’re interested. Assume buyer to pay shipping - payments through PayPal. I will update the list as items are sold. Thanks for your interest! Sea&Sea DX-D80 housing - $400 2- Sea&Sea YS-250 strobes w/batteries and chargers. $600 ea. or both for $1000 Sea&Sea Large Dome Port - $400 Sea&Sea Custom Flat port w/Woody’s Diopter - $200 Sea&Sea Extension Ring 40 - $200 Sea&Sea Extension Ring 20 - $75 2 sets of TLC strobe Arms - $80 ea. or both for $150 Sea&Sea Dual Strobe TTL Cords - $60 ea. or both for $100 Aluminum focus ring for Tokina 10-17mm fisheye for Sea&Sea housings - $20 i will also consider selling Nikon D80, 105mm lens I will supply additional photos and clarifications on condition, upon request.
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TTL Converter SEA&SEA for Nikon $150 https://www.ebay.com/itm/143441787834
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Hi I'm going to buy a used Sea & Sea mdx-d500 housing. I have two Inon 330 strobes that I like to continue using. I can't seem to find wether or not the Optical YS Converter/N1 from Sea & Sea will work fine with my Inon 330 in TTL mode. Does anyone know if there are any issues with this combo or do they work 100% and fast? Then I saw the i-TURTLE SMART TTL converter from art-electronics that seems to work with the MDX housing and Inon 330. Anyone using this TTL converter that like to share their opinion? Are you happy with or would you go for the Sea & Sea converter? Happy to hear your thoughts and opinions.
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I have two TTL converters for the Nauticam D850 and they are horrible. 90 percent are way under exposed. I am shooting all manual now on my macro work. They are essentially costly, useless electronics. In the most basic, close up, nudibranch simple shots one can do, the TTL fails miserably, significantly under exposes. Someone has to call out Nauticam for this. In my opinion they are selling an inferior product. When you compare the converter to my old system, a Nauticam D7100 system with fiber optic, nearly 90 percent accurate exposure. Granted the D7100 is using the cameras TTL system, but you would think that the engineers at Nauticam, who I consider very good at what they do, would have done more field testing before launching the board. Where I bought my housing, they could not get the first circuit board to function with TTL. They had to order another one, which worked topside. But until you actually put this in the field, underwater, will you recognize its inferiority for such a high end system. Really disappointed. Here is one image where TTL would not properly light the subject. Simple, easy. Ended up using manual. Strobes pointed close within 8-12 inches and directly at the subject. Could not have had easier situations for the TTL to function properly. Will post some additional examples in a bit after my dive of images that the ttl would not work...well not in any case has the ttl actually worked. Joe
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Hello - Former TG5 shooter getting everything ready to "take the next step" and move to a mirrorless rig. After a few weeks of research and video watching, I am pretty set on the GH5 w/ a Nauticam housing. One potential issue that is dissuading me is the lack of TTL support on the Nauticam housing. I know I will eventually want to control my strobes manually down the line, but TTL seems like a wonderful option for the first few weeks/months as I learn how to use this new camera. I have come across this converter kit. Curious if anyone has any experience with these products. Do they work well? In theory, with this purchase I would NOT need flash triggers, correct? Would I be able to use my existing strobes (YS D2) and fiber optic cables? Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated!
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Posted 10 March 2018 - 12:26 AM 1 x Ikelite Underwater DSLR Housing for Canon T4i (650D) / T5i (700D) --- MODEL #5510.22 - AVAILABLE - $750 USD 1 x 1-inch Ball Mount Mark II for Vega ---- MODEL #4081.5 - AVAILABLE - Free with purchase of housing 1 x Ikelite - 8" Dome port --- MODEL #6871.65 - AVAILABLE -$180 USD 1 x Port Body (Modular 4.125-inch Lens Extension) ---- MODEL #5510.22 - AVAILABLE - (I use it for Canon 10-22mm/60 mm lenses) - $80 Been used for under year and sitting well maintained since by a dive professional. I will pay for shipping inside Canada, but outside of that, it is on any potential buyers. Please message for details! Take it all for 825$ USD
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Hi and greetings from Vanuatu. I am new to the forum and have some queries re the Nauticam TTL Converter for Nikon. I have Nikon 500 with Nauticam housing, nauticam ttl converter, one Z240 inon and one D2000 inon strobes. I also use a big blue 2800 torch as a focus light. I have just made the move to DSLR from an RX100II set up and have never had major problems with strobe output until now (I used TTL only for the Sony) I only recently installed the TTL converter which was ordered with the camera but arrived sometime later. Consequently I have been using manual modes and tried the TTL mode in the last 2 weeks. To my surprise I am finding my shots are very much underexposed. I have been shooting macro with 105mm Nikon lens. In TTL mode I found that increasing strobe power by turning EV switch left made no difference. The settings I had were: Strobe switches on TTL nauticam fibre optic connection flash in camera stetting - front curtain sync Both switches on the TTL converter itself are down (for Inon and TTL) On camera - Menu E – bracketing flash:E.1 Flash Sync Speed 1/250 (NOT auto FP) E.2 Flash Shutter speed 1/60 Camera was showing I-TTL symbol Camera set on Manual – iso 100, films speeds were varied 80-160, F-stops from 11 to 20 Strobes in close to housing, focus light on (white) I subsequently tried the strobes at home and found that when firing quickly, the Z240 would periodically not fire. I changed the physical TTL switch to manual and found I had full control over the strobes using the strobe dials themselves IF the magnets were engaged. Again in TTL mode on the converter - no real difference in output by either camera controls or strobe switches. I am a bit perplexed ed as to the TTL issue and was wondering: - what impact does the focus light have - I had it on high (white light)? - using two different strobes - Z240 more powerful than D2000 - what impact? Certainly it seems the z240 was taking longer to recycle. Also - re the TTL converter module - my understanding is that to change to manual underwater I need to change camera setting E1 to a sync speed of 1/250 (auto FP). I gather the strobe output settings can also be changed in camera by using flash compensation (-3 ev to +1ev?). Presumably this can be done to change the output in TTL mode as well? I have learned through various forums that with the Inon's and Nikon D500 the strobe magnets need to be "on" tpo have manual control. No issue there - but effectively makes the choice of manual or TTl with the D 2000 difficult as the magnet needs to be screwed in before hand whereas the Z240 is easy to change underwater. My query - when the camera is set at 1/250 (auto FP) with magnets engaged - does this mean the strobes are in full manual mode and able to be controlled in camera and by switch regardless of whether the Converter switch inside the housing is set to M or TTL? I am learning as I go. If anyone has experienced similar issues and can offer some advice I would be most appreciative. There are not many people I can ask here in Vanuatu! Best Regards John
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Two YS-D1 strobes $390 each or $750 AUD for both. Very good condition, fully functional, never flooded, rinsed in fresh water after every use. Excellent strobes that can be used for macro or wide angle photography with plenty of manual power control and a TTL function. Happy to post but buyer pays shipping costs.
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Hi All, I'm working to understand how my a6000 works in detail with the aim of (possibly) making my own LED TTL converter. At the moment I use the a6000 with its internal flash to trigger a set of YS-D2 strobes using my optical cables. I either use the strobes in manual or TTL mode. The TTL is reasonable, but not always perfect. I wanted to understand how the a6000 TTL system works, so I connected a little oscilloscope to my hotshoe x-sync pin and used the other channel of the oscilloscope with a photodiode to monitor the flash. See attached 2 screen grabs for two flash types - Fill Flash, Rear Sync. I also did a rear sync, but it's result was remarkably similar. I wasn't able, in any case, either Manual, Aperture priority or full automatic, to witness any pre-flash whatsoever from the camera's internal flash. Does the a6000 meter TTL during the exposure? Am I missing something here. Welcome any insights, comments or suggestions to be able to run another oscilloscope test. Cheers! -
Having moved to the Subal V3 TTL board, I'm selling the V2 board that I have used with my Nikon D500 system. I've used the board with Inon Z240 strobes via fibre optic. The TTL results have been excellent. You can turn the TTL feature on and off underwater easily. The board will work with various other strobes including Sea&Sea YS-D1, D2, YS-250; Inon Z240, D2000, S2000 and Ikelites DS161 and DS61. The board can be used with either fibre optic connectors or electrical - both obtainable separately. If you have a Nikon camera with no built-in strobe, eg the D500, D5 or D850, this board will initiate the strobes for you. Price is £195 + postage For more info PM me
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For Sale: Ikelite 2 arms set (170 EUR) Ikelite 1 arm with lever (70 EUR) Ikelite Dome Port 5503.50 (185 EUR) Ikelite TTL Sync Cord (85 EUR) For all items: 460 EUR Pay by paypal. + shipping (depents on destination country) Items location: Europe
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I am selling a new Seacam TTL Splitter to use two flashes with just one S6 socket in TTL funtionality. new € 420,- selling price € 250,- Shipment will pay the buyer I am from Austria
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How exactly does a strobe setup work? I would like to purchase a Sea & Sea YS-D2 to go with my D850 and (prospectively) a Nauticam housing. The D850 doesn't have a built-in flash, so I would just hook up the YS-D2 to the D850? I want to use TTL, and would I need a TTL converter for this setup? -
I am selling a new TtTL-Splitter from Seacam. Price new was 420, selling for 250,- Please contact me if internstes. Regards Armin Located in Austria
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Hello everyone. I have a Sea & Sea YS-17 (Olympus UFL-1) strobe. Been doing a lot of reading on the strobe for facts on functionality. I am trying to confirm what I “know” and what I should expect from this strobe being my first. I am well vesting in surface photography. This was bought 2nd hand and was told it was unused. No scratches to unit seem to confirm that or very low use. Manual mode seems to work as would expect but the TTL never seems to work as the sync seems off and I always get black frames when camera is set to ttl (auto). I am shooting with a Canon s100 in an ikelite housing with an optical sync. The cameras flash is masked out with black tape feeding the optic sync cable. The sync cable is home brew(modified sea life cable) but works 100% of the time in manual mode so doubt this is the issue? The canon s100 is setup per others guides on the web and the internal flash has been set to both auto and manual in my testing. I believe it is an issue with the pre flash triggering the strobe to fire on the “pre” vs post flash. I never see the “green” ttl light on the strobe after it fires. Here are some facts I have gathered on the strobe. Please correct me if this is not right. 1- When Strobe is set to TTL mode, strobe should fire 2x just as (and in the time/power) that the body’s flash does. 2- The strobes “power” knob selections are FULL and Half and only in effect when strobe is set to manual. ?This does nothing when set to TTL? 3- When Strobe is set to manual mode the Power knob does effect the sync. a. Full: triggers the strobe on the pre flash b. Half: triggers on the full 2nd “post” flash. Now on my Canon S100 there are two flash settings. Auto and Manual. Auto does the preflash and Manual does not. I understand that the camera only does TTL in auto? Need confirm that. I have used both modes and while set to auto (preflash) I only get black underexposed frames when strobe is set to TTL or Manual:Full which leads me to believe the sync is firing on the preflash. When I set the strobe to Manual:half (camera still set to auto [preflash]) I do get a correctly exposed frame. This seems to prove 3a/b above. When the cameras flash is set to Manual, I can get exposed frames in both of the strobes TTL and Manual:Full/Half settings but the TTL green light never comes. The exposure also does not taper off and I assume the TTL is not working and it is firing in FULL manual mode regardless of the strobes TTL setting. Note: I do see the TTL light turn green for 3sec when I turn on TTL after the flash has charged so assume the switch is working as this is never seen in manual. Am I missing something or is the TTL function of this flash not working? From what I understand it should work when strobe set to TLL and the cameras flash is set to Auto. - Should TTL work when strobe s set to TTL and cameras flash is set to manual? - Are there other was on the camera to force ttl? - Are there any incompatibilities with this strobe and camera model (Sea & Sea YS-17 and canon s100)? - Any ideas? I shoot mostly in Seattle’s Puget Sound which is a green murk 8-30ft viz is standard. I will most likely need shoot manual for most of it but would like the TTL option if I can find a way to make it work. Any and all comment or ideas are greatly appreciated and a big thanks in advance. Hello everyone. I have a Sea & Sea YS-17 (Olympus UFL-1) strobe. Been doing a lot of reading on the strobe for facts on functionality. I am trying to confirm what I “know” and what I should expect from this strobe being my first. I am well vesting in surface photography. This was bought 2nd hand and was told it was unused. No scratches to unit seem to confirm that or very low use. Manual mode seems to work as would expect but the TTL never seems to work as the sync seems off and I always get black frames when camera is set to ttl (auto). -
1 x Ikelite Underwater DSLR Housing for Canon T4i (650D) / T5i (700D) --- MODEL #5510.22 - AVAILABLE - $900 USD 1 x 1-inch Ball Mount Mark II for Vega ---- MODEL #4081.5 - AVAILABLE - Free with purchase of housing 1 x Ikelite - 8" Dome port --- MODEL #6871.65 - AVAILABLE -$180 USD 1 x Port Body (Modular 4.125-inch Lens Extension) ---- MODEL #5510.22 - AVAILABLE - (I use it for Canon 10-22mm/60 mm lenses) - $80 Been used for under year and sitting well maintained since by a dive professional. I will pay for shipping inside Canada, but outside of that, it is on any potential buyers. Please message for details! Take it all for 1,000$ USD
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I have two Ikelite sync cords for sale: 1. Ikelite TTL Dual Sync Cord 4104.62 One Nikonos Bulkhead to Two Ikelite Strobes: $110 This cord is in new condition. It has never been used or in the water. From the Ikelite website: Y-shaped sync cord with Ikelite-style plugs on strobe ends and Nikonos-style plug on the housing end. Provides TTL operation with any compatible system featuring a Nikonos-style N5 TTL bulkhead and Ikelite strobe. The Ikelite-style plug is widely recognized as the most reliable waterproof strobe sync connection available. Built-in strain reliefs reduce stress on cord ends. This cord is compatible with Nikonos, film and digital TTL systems. Do not use this cord with non-TTL systems. If unsure, contact your housing manufacturer or choose a non-TTL sync cord. This cord requires the attachment of two strobes for waterproof operation. To shoot with only one strobe, try a single sync cord instead. 2. Ikelite Sync Cord - Ikelite Strobe to Nikonos Bulkhead TTL Product Number 4104.6: $80 Used a few times and has been in storage in a workshop for a few years. From Ikelite's website: Coiled sync cord with an Ikelitestyle plug on strobe end and Nikonosstyle plug on housing end. Provides TTL operation with any compatible system featuring a Nikonosstyle N5 TTL bulkhead and Ikelite strobe. The Ikelitestyle plug is widely recognized as the most reliable waterproof strobe sync connection available. Builtin strain reliefs reduce stress on cord ends. This cord is compatible with Nikonos, film and digital TTL systems. Do not use this cord with nonTTL systems. If unsure, contact your housing manufacturer or choose a nonTTL sync cord. To connect two strobes to a single housing bulkhead, try a dual sync cord instead. f you are interested, please contact Norb Wu at temp2_at_norbertwu.com. Please no phone calls. I am happy to entertain reasonable offers. I can accept Square, Paypal, and personal checks. I've found Square to be the easiest these days -- I can create an invoice and send it to you via email, and you can then pay with your credit card without sending that information to me. Personal checks will have to clear my bank before the product is shipped; which can take up to three weeks. Shipping will be at buyer's expense (at actual cost) and will be UPS Ground, Fedex Ground, or USPS Priority Mail (all of which give tracking of packages). If we conclude a deal, I'll give you a quote for shipping via one of the above methods. Thanks! I've sold quite a few things here on wetpixel, and everyone has been friendly, courteous, and great to deal with. Thanks to Eric and Adam for making this forum work so well! Norbert Wu -
I'm very new to using an underwater strobe and don't really understand how a TTL system works using a fiber optic connection. I've been watching youtube videos explaining TTL in normal cameras connected via a hotshoe with an electronic connection and kind of understand that the camera fires a pre-flash to determine how much power it needs for the main flash. But how does this work with a simple optical trigger? If the camera uses its own pre-flash to trigger a pre-flash in the strobe and then provides corrects the main flash power, how is this information conveyed via the fiber optic from the camera to the strobe? To clarify, does the strobe vary its power according to the amount of light carried via the fiber optic cable? I have a Sony RX100M4 connected to an INON Z-240 (unfortunately there's no manual) via optic cable. Does anyone know if the RX100 uses a preflash when I use the fill flash? Should I put the Advanced Cancel Circuit Switch up or down on the Inon Z-240? Any help would be very appreciated.
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Radio waves don't travel very far underwater leaving conventional multiple flash setups without the benefit of radio controlled speedlights but I would like to mention since ultrasound travels very well underwater it's worth exploring ultrasound controlled underwater flash photography -
Folks I'd welcome your views and advice on an aspect of TTL and fibre optics. I use my Nikon D800 built-in flash to fire my Inon Z240 strobes via fibre optic cables. It works well. What are the advantages of using a different form of strobe initiator, for example the recently advertised Turtle TTL or Subal's TTL V1 system? I understand that recycling will be faster (although that bothers me that I'd burn out my Inons!). But are there other advantages? I read somewhere that the strobe output of the Inons is limited by the guide number (thus power) of the built-in camera flash. A different initiator would avoid this. Is this true? To upgrade what I have would likely cost between 500-800. Quite a chunk of cash. Is it worth it? What would I gain? Thanks!
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Hi I use Nikon D500 in Nauticam NA-500 with Nauticam TTL converter installed and fiber optic cable to the YS-D1 I decide to try to work in manual mode on the strobe I noticed that it can work with pre-flash only. it that true or I'm doing something wrong Thanks, Hezi -
Hi, I am using a Sony A6000 in a Meikon Underwater Housing, with two Inon S-2000. Strangely enough, even though the Switches are at S-TTL setting, there is no pre-flash and the flashes seem to fire at the same power regardless of camera settings. This can result in under- or overexposed pictures. As far as I know, the magnets are only necessary for manual shooting. Anyone got any ideas? I am thankful for any and all help.
