new seacam flash for nikon and canon

[Steve Jones 0]

Any specs on the wet diopters? Are they achromats, etc. ? 

 

To the strobe:

123 manual settings!!! Can someone elaborate?

120 degrees is pretty wide-angle and accounts for the low GN for the w-s of output. I would assume a meter-based GN. It would be way cool if the flashtube could be focused into a narrower beam ala Subsea MK150. This could make the GN go way up.

How much does this puppy weigh!    On land  as well as in the sea!  <_<

 

Tom

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

As for the wet diopters they come in 2 strengths, +2 and +4. I didn't ask if they were achromats but Harald did tell me they use very high quality glass. They are so neat and easy to carry. I bought a +2 as a starting point.

 

As for the manual settings, I didn't ask about the 123 settings so can't confirm that, but you can set the strobe to full, half power etc - or any point in between any power settings - hence (I'm assuming) if you set half way between full and half - you get 3/4 power, set it 3/4 of the way between full and half and you get 7/8's power etc.

 

As for narrowing the beam on these babies, I use the old fashioned method - a snoot made of a bit of old drainpipe. Using 2 Subtronics I generally get a full extra stop with the snoots on.

 

As for weight, Seacam flashes are generally neutral or near neutral under water - Paul Kay or Stephen Frink are better to comment on this though, as I've never used them myself (yet )

 

Steve

[StephenFrink 9]

As for weight, Seacam flashes are generally neutral or near neutral under water - Paul Kay or Stephen Frink are better to comment on this though, as I've never used them myself (yet  )

 

Steve

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

I haven't tried it yet either Steve, but have one on order of course. I'll let you all know what I think once I give it a thorough test. Meanwhile, here is the Seacam spec sheet:

 

 

 

SEAFLASH 250 digital

 

 

FEATURES TECHNICAL DETAILS

 

• Fully digital electronic, controlled by a fast microcontroller

• Nikon digital i-TTL, Canon digital e-TTL, easy update to a next ttl generation

• Nikon / Canon standard TTL

 

• Capacity 250 Ws

• Uw-guide number 20 - ISO 100 / 1m at full power

• Coverage angle 120°, precision reflector and corrected dome glass

• 190 flashes at full power

• Recycle time 0,3 – 5 sec.

• Color temperature 4300°K – 5200°K, two selectable flash bulbs

• Manual light level selection in 7 + 5 different steps

 

• Digital multi function display, fully illuminated with automatic dimming

• Display of power delivered in each shoot

• Underexposure signalled by an audio and a visible alarm

• Ready light external and in the camera display

• Battery status indicator and fully automatic battery charger

• Auto shut off and audible alarm for preserving battery life

• Automatic charger, fully controlled –dV, temp. and time, charging time 100 min.

 

• Power LED in 3 manual power steps and automatic, continuous burn time 6h

• Slave sensor, high intensive for all manual settings, with/without pilot light

• True SOS signal for approx. 3h

• Synchro socket Nikonos V or S6, charging socket

• High quality Sanyo and easy to replace internal battery pack (service only)

• Lightweight power supply, 110-240V, 12V adapter

 

• SEACAM silver housing, sea-water resistant aluminium, precision machined

• Macro focusing and protection ring

• Neutrally buoyant

• Dimension L x Ø: 250 x 110 (120) mm, 2100 g, -80m depth rating

[bobf 0]

Stephen,

 

I'll upload this data into the Strobe Finder.

 

Few questions:

 

Confirm NiCad battery?

Are diffusers available? Optional? Standard?

Pilot light=Target light?

USD MSRP?

 

thanks for keeping us informed,

b

[acroporas 0]

Wow, this sounds like it will be an awsome strobe. BUT can we expect simialr seacam housing:ikelite housng and secam flash:ikelite flash price ratios? If so I think I'll happly make due with ikelites offerings.

[UWphotoNewbie 1]

Nikon digital i-TTL, Canon digital e-TTL, easy update to a next ttl generation

 

God I hope that with Nikon releasing new strobes this week that iTTL is here to stay for a while.

[Alex_Mustard 0]

Unfortunately there are slightly different flavours of Nikon iTTL - and while both the D2X and D70 will both iTTL with the same Nikon flashes they do not use exactly the same protocol. And Seacam have wisely made provisos in case Nikon change it again for the D200.

 

Alex

[Tom_Kline 137]

As for the wet diopters they come in 2 strengths, +2 and +4.  I didn't ask if they were achromats but Harald did tell me they use very high quality glass.  They are so neat and easy to carry.  I bought a +2 as a starting point.

 

As for the manual settings, I didn't ask about the 123 settings so can't confirm that, but you can set the strobe to full, half power etc - or any point in between any power settings - hence (I'm assuming) if you set half way between full and half - you get 3/4 power, set it 3/4 of the way between full and half and you get 7/8's power etc.

 

As for narrowing the beam on these babies, I use the old fashioned method - a snoot made of a bit of old drainpipe.  Using 2 Subtronics I generally get a full extra stop with the snoots on. 

 

As for weight, Seacam flashes are generally neutral or near neutral under water - Paul Kay or Stephen Frink are better to comment on this though, as I've never used them myself (yet  )

 

Steve

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Thanks for the added info. I did not think they rounded up empty Coke bottles to melt down to use as optical glass! However, it would nice to know how they compared in design to others on the market, which includes achromats.

You description makes it sound like the manual setting is infinitely variable.

I think Steve Frink may have a replacement for you snoot.

I was actually more concern about travel weight but UW is important too .

Tom

[Tom_Kline 137]

I haven't tried it yet either Steve, but have one on order of course.  I'll let you all know what I think once I give it a thorough test.  Meanwhile, here is the Seacam spec sheet:

 

 

 

SEAFLASH 250 digital

FEATURES              TECHNICAL DETAILS

 

snip

• Manual light level selection in 7 + 5 different steps

 

snip

 

• Macro focusing and protection ring

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

7 + 5 = 12 ???

Could you elaborate on 'macro focusing and protection ring'?

Does this narrow the beam and increase the GN?

Thanks

Tom

[AndreSmith 15]

I haven't tried it yet either Steve, but have one on order of course. I'll let you all know what I think once I give it a thorough test. Meanwhile, here is the Seacam spec sheet:

 

 

 

SEAFLASH 250 digital

FEATURES TECHNICAL DETAILS

 

• Synchro socket Nikonos V or S6, charging socket

 

 

Does that mean either Nik V or S6 or both??? I presume you will need the S6 to get the iTTL/ETTL functionality or no???

It would be nice to see a picture of the whole strobe to see all the connections

[ikelite 0]

Dumb but not stupid strobe & TTL progression strategy:

 

http://www.ikelite.com/web_two/dsttlplans.html

[Tom_Kline 137]

Clever to put the adaptation circuitry in the cord. I hope it does not make them too expensive!

Tom

[ssra30 0]

Dumb but not stupid strobe & TTL progression strategy: 

 

http://www.ikelite.com/web_two/dsttlplans.html

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Ike, DS200 is already on top of my way too long shoping list and I already pestered my local Ikelite dealer about wanting one already

The iTTL cord will be icing on the cake too

I hope it will work with D2X as it is a bit different from D70 iTTL.

Now get the whip out and start making more strobes!

[james 0]

Thanks for posting the update Ike. I think putting the conversion circuitry into the cord is a smashing idea!

 

Cheers

James

[Paul Kay 46]

"Could you elaborate on 'macro focusing and protection ring'?"

 

The macro protection ring is a slip on machined plastic ring (like a lens hood) which protects the rounded strobe port from damage when moving very close to the subject, as doing so risks knocking the flash front on hard surfaces. I know that this shouldn't happen, but it does, so Seacam offer the ring to protect the strobe front (I leave mine on unless shooting wide).

[Chris Bangs 0]

As for narrowing the beam on these babies, I use the old fashioned method - a snoot made of a bit of old drainpipe.  Using 2 Subtronics I generally get a full extra stop with the snoots on. 

 

Steve

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

I did a lot of experimenting when I was shooting 10:1 macro and I found the best way to narrow the beam on a flash is to use a magnifier in front of the strobe.

 

land flashes use this technique. the use what is very similar to a fensel ( sp ) magnifier on the face of the flash. the flash tube moves back and forth to change the beam angle. fyi, Fensel magnifiers are sold in sheets for helping those like me who are a bit visually challenged.

 

I have not tried one of these underwater yet but I have tried Woody's diopter over my Ike 50s with good results. the key is being able to guess how far from the strobe face to place the diopter in order to focus the beam. Basically the farther away the diopter narrower the beam,just like using a magnifying glass to focus sunlight to start a fire. I haven't thought about trying to combine a snoot and the diopter? now that may work better. I experimented by using a C8 light in the bath tub with the diopter and it does work. The macro mate would work better but is not cost effective. just buy narrow beam strobes

 

As for the Seacam flash, It has some great features but a non user replaceable battery scares me away big time since I live far away from any service centers. Hopefully Ike will come up with a digi TTL controller that will work on any system

[jbrookfi 0]

One possible disadvantage of the Seacam and Subtronic strobes having non-removable batteries is the risk that a airline may refuse to carry them.

 

The problem was highlighted in a recent article in the German magazine "Unterwasser". IATA rules state that a diving light (doesn't mention strobes directly) must have the energy source and the "heat producing element" disconnected. Then it may be carried in hand luggage.

 

Subtronic have a downloadable PDF on their web site that is a reprint of an LBA (German Civil Airlines Authority) that gives an exemption to the Subtonic strobes if they are fitted with a means of blocking the switches from turning on. Subtonic and Seacam supply a plate designed to do this. However this PDF is in German and doesn't look very "official".

 

 

The Unterwasser article suggests that in any case an airline can refuse to carry the strobes. I remove the halogen pilot lights from my Seacam 150 TTLs and am prepared to argue that the remaining flash tube is not a "heat producing element". With my Subtonic mini, I would have to argue that the LED pilot is also not a "heat producing element".

 

One day this is not going to work and I have to accept that the next strobes I buy must have removable batteries.

 

Jeremy Brookfield

[Tom_Kline 137]

"Could you elaborate on 'macro focusing and protection ring'?"

 

The macro protection ring is a slip on machined plastic ring (like a lens hood) which protects the rounded strobe port from damage when moving very close to the subject, as doing so risks knocking the flash front on hard surfaces. I know that this shouldn't happen, but it does, so Seacam offer the ring to protect the strobe front (I leave mine on unless shooting wide).

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

What is meant by 'macro focusing' ?

TIA

Tom

[Tom_Kline 137]

Any specs on the wet diopters? Are they achromats, etc. ? 

 

Tom

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Thanks for posting this article: http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/seacam-wet-diopter/

Based on their thickness (from what I can see), I am guessing they are simple single-element diopters and not achromats.

Tom

[echeng 0]

One possible disadvantage of the Seacam and Subtronic strobes having non-removable batteries is the risk that a airline may refuse to carry them.

Jeremy -- this is a very good point. I've had to show that the batteries on my strobe were disconnected before they would let me check my bag. Usually, they just ask me if the batteries are disconnected (without asking), but if I had non-removable strobes and said "yes" -- and then they went in to check, it would be pretty bad...

[Rocha 0]

This is really serious, in my last 3 flights they made me remove the batteries from my Ikelite 200s. I have no idea what they would do if I told them: "Sorry, they are not removable".

[Chris Bangs 0]

I know that in Tokyo and the Caribbean, I had to remove batteries from everything, both in checked and carry on baggage. I would imagine that this will get even worse as time goes on.

[Starbuck 0]

That is what TSA stands for right?

 

Take Strobe Away...

 

M.

[Chris Bangs 0]

That is what TSA stands for right?

 

Take Strobe Away...

 

M.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

HAHAHA - I thought it stood for,Trash your gear, Steal, Aggravate!

[Alex_Mustard 0]

The German's are very strict on this. And since Subtronic are based in Germany (and Germany is probably their main market) I know that they can't ignore this problem, and I think Subtronic are planning to offer strobes with removable batteries at some point.

 

I don't know about Austria and Seacam. Seacam's main market is the States - so it is up to you guys to put the requests in.

 

Alex

 

On a positive note. If you are ever asked to hand carry a couple of Seacam or Subtronic strobes - I find a quick stop in duty free to ask for the boxes they give for carrying bottles of wine or spirits onto the plane make for excellent strobe transporters.

[Jolly 3]

Wow, I am surprised that this is a Seacam own electronic development and not based on something around already. So then we can expect this strobe works with every camera like an origin Canon / Nikon landgun or third party Sigma flash would? Can someone confirm (maybe Stephen Frink?) this strobes works with eTTL from Canon D30 up to 1Ds MkII and from Nikon D70(s) up to D2x? What about e-TTL’s high speed sync and 2nd curtain?

 

I’ve recently given an interview to the Swiss dive magazine Aquanaut on the travel issue with strobes with built-in batteries, like described here: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...080entry54080 . So far the problem is not sooo dramatic in real life travelling but from time to time problems occur and some had to leave their strobes on the ground already. Removable batteries are the right way for travel IMO.

 

Julian