New Inon D2000W Strobes

[mattdiver 0]

Just got my hands on a couple of the new Inon D2000W strobes. These are identical to the older D2000 model, except that they come with a Sea&Sea strobe connector. I have just given them a try in the swimming pool before heading to Bali next week. Here are my first impressions:

 

- For those (like me) who have never used Inon strobes, the size and weight are just amazing. I normally use a couple of S200. These are about 1/3 the size, and probably 1/4 of the weight (see photo at bottom of this post). On the other hand, they do have a "plasticky", more fragile feel when compared to my old Ikelites.

 

- The strobes are also quite powerful. Didn't make actual comparisons (I'll get down to it, eventually ), but they seem pretty close to a DS125 in terms of intensity and coverage.

 

- Recycling time is really fast. I tried them with a D1X in burst mode, and they managed to keep up until I'd filled the entire buffer! (i.e. 14 shots, approx. 3fps).

 

- The strobe allows a whole lot of options and adjustments (S-TTL, etc.), but the thing is so new, they don't even have an English manual yet. So I stuck with the Auto and Manual modes, and got pretty good results (as good as you can get in a pool, anyway )

 

- The focus/modelling light appears less powerful than on my other strobes, but I can't say for sure. I'll have to wait until my next night dive...

 

- The main drawback I see, when compared to my other strobes, is the lack of battery charge indicator. Reportedly, I should get 500 to 600 shots from a fresh set of NiMH batteries, so I guess I'll just charge them every other day, depending on usage.

 

That's all for now. More impressions when I'm back from Bali...

 

 

Mat

 

PS: If anybody gets one of those, first thing you should do is block the slave sensor cell with the cap provided. This thing is so sensitive that it was triggered by the sun shimmering on the lights in the pool!

[Arnon_Ayal 1]

Looks interesting especially cause the size and weight.

Waiting for full reviews...

[Alex_Mustard 0]

Thanks for posting, Matt. You are the first person I know who has tried them. So I a looking forward to hearing more.

 

Have a good time in Bali!

 

Alex

[Jolly 3]

Thanks for sharing Matt,

 

I am still wondering what the difference between the two versions is. Is is just that the choice between the magnet and switch instead?

 

Julian

[mattdiver 0]

Hi Julian,

 

I've read the limited doc available online several times, and I don't really get the difference either. Probably something to do with the translation from Japanese

 

Anyway, it seems like the D-2000W works with both film and digital while D-2000Wn is more targetted towards film cameras, so I've got the right model

 

Mat

[motionsync 0]

I am to very courius about this new strobe

 

Mostly becauce I was thinking that one small strobe will work great for fill in light or when you take pictures again the surface and dont whant the object to be a siluette or pool Photos

 

Togewter with the 10,5 & 16mm lens it will maybe work and it is still small enough for freediving

[Scubaskeeter 3]

Thanks for sharing Matt,

 

I am still wondering what the difference between the two versions is. Is is just that the choice between the magnet and switch instead?

 

Julian

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

I just got off the phone with the US rep (incidentally, only a few Km from my house) The main difference is that the D2000w has the 5-pin waterproof cable connection as well as optic capability. The rep said there are other minor details too, which will come out with the manual sometime soon.

 

I'm thinking I could get the "w" version and use with my s50, optically, until I get the Digital Rebel housed in Ikelite, then switch to the 5-pin. I would really prefer to be optical throughout, but this seems as close as I can get to my solution. Other thoughts appreciated on this subject - I am very new to DSLR u/w and need lot of help!

 

Regards,

Scott

[motionsync 0]

I have read follow:

 

... you can use this strobe both "Nikonos type TTL mode" with an electrical cable and " INON S-TTL" with an optical cable. And you can change some TTL mode underwater, but you can not change AUTO mode across optical and cable connection.

But if you select advanced model D-2000Wn then you can change some AUTO mode across "optical" and "electrical"

[Jolly 3]

... The main difference is that the D2000w has the 5-pin waterproof cable connection ...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

This would refer to both new D2000W(n) models compared to the old D2000. Last one had optical connection only. Both new versions "W" and "Wn" have elecrical sync cord connection.

 

From my understanding, the difference ist that the Wn features a switch/wheel instead of the magnet hole. This allows switching between four modes instead of two underwater. However, this applies only to electric wired connection, not to optical triggering? If I got it right. Strange this is worth to bring up two different versions of basically one strobe.

 

Julian

[Alex_Mustard 0]

Lambis, it is not the size of the strobe, but the drag from the strobe and strobe arms that will hamper you as a freediver.

 

I am with Julian, I find that Inon are changing their strobes a bit quickly these days and seem to be confusing the customer. They seem to me to be the Sony Camcorders of the UW strobe market!

 

Dear Santa,

 

I would like to see Inon have a 4 product line up:

1) D2000 - optical only

2) D2000 - optical and Nik V electronic.

3) Quad flash (but with decent manual settings)

4) A more powerful INON with 3-4 flash tubes

 

Alex

[mattdiver 0]

I'm thinking I could get the "w" version and use with my s50, optically, until I get the Digital Rebel housed in Ikelite, then switch to the 5-pin. I would really prefer to be optical throughout, but this seems as close as I can get to my solution. Other thoughts appreciated on this subject - I am very new to DSLR u/w and need lot of help!

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Hi Scott,

 

For an all round solution, you could get the D2000w with a fibre optic cable for now to go with your S50, and then just get the sync cord once you house your Rebel. With the latter, you hardly have a choice anyway: the strobe must be hard-wired to the camera. At least you won't have to get a new strobe...

 

Mat

[james 0]

I agree w/ Alex - too confusing. So the D2000w is like a Z220, but weaker??

 

That's too bad, I have the Z220's and love them, but they are not as powerful as I'd like, and I wouldn't buy a weaker strobe for DSLR use, unless it's for macro only.

 

Cheers

James

[motionsync 0]

I was thinking to have a strobe , not for general use but just only with situations where a strobe is needed.

 

The follow photo was taken in a low visability and contrast sea with a 16mm

Photo directly from the camera

 

The visability was so bad and it was late afternoon that I have use follow settings

 

 

The settings are F5 1/30 sec ISO 400 was to out off question becauce my Nikon D70s have noice if you have iso higher that 200

 

I was thinking that a strobe like a inon would help me in this kind of problem

 

what are you thinking guys?

 

[Ryan 57]

I've been told that the D-2000wn isn't likely to be sold in the US. While I'm a bit unclear of the role of the 4-way dial, it does allow the MANUAL+TTL feature to be disengaged, for true manual strobe control only.

 

Manual+TTL is available on the D-2000w when connected to a TTL Camera System via 5 pins, and can not be disengaged. The translations on the Inon Japan site seem to contradict what I've been told by Inon Japan, so I won't try to explain what I know (or more likely, don't know) about its function.

 

Either way, w/ Digital SLR Cameras, External Auto and 13 manual power settings are available underwater.

 

Scubaskeeter, if you shoot your camera in manual mode, you can use external auto or manual power settings on the flash (requires magnet installation). In aperture or shutter priority, you can use S-TTL, External Auto, or Manual Power (No Magnet). This strobe will not be able to utilize Ikelite's excellent TTL conversion circuitry, though...

 

These strobes are very sophisticated, which can be incredibly confusing for new shooters. This seems to reinforce purchasing from someone who knows what they are talking about and can offer instructions tailored to the individual camera system of the user... When set up properly, there is nothing more easy to use for a new shooter.

[Jolly 3]

I agree w/ Alex - too confusing.  So the D2000w is like a Z220, but weaker??

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

yeah, it is. D2000 GN of 20, Z220 GN of 22. So the D2000 strobes are 1/3 stop darker. For DSLR, not a bad idea to keep obsolete Z220 strobes. Maybe used market value will grow from now on, hehe.

 

Julian

[frogfish 5]

Just got my hands on a couple of the new Inon D2000W strobes.  .. I have just given them a try in the swimming pool before heading to Bali next week.  Here are my first impressions:

.....[deleted]

- The strobe allows a whole lot of options and adjustments (S-TTL, etc.), but the thing is so new, they don't even have an English manual yet.  So I stuck with the Auto and Manual modes, and got pretty good results (as good as you can get in a pool, anyway)....[deleted]

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

While you're here in Bali, I'd be happy to buy (or make) dinner (name your price!) if you could take the time to explain to me what you've figured out about these strobes and how they work. I just got mine, and I haven't got a clue. (I do know that I'm going to have to do something about the cable - I've hooked them up once and I get the ready-flashing signal inside the view-window of the D2X, same as with the S&S 90DXs.) Given that the back of one these new Inons looks like part of the instrument control panel on a Lear-Jet, I'm finding the lack of a manual a bit of a challenge.

 

I'll be here (home in Sanur) until 23rd, then plan to spend four or five days at Puri Jati, Menjangan, and Tulamben in the north, hopefully testing (finally) the D2X with these new-fangled Inons and my older strobes before deciding what to take to Raja Empat in January. Any help or advice - from others here as well - would be gratefully appreciated!

 

Frogfish

[motionsync 0]

mattdiver

 

I just saw on your profile that you have to a Ike 200 & 125 strobe.

It will be intresting to hear how the new INON D2000W compere to you other stobes. Most intesting for me is the BEAM (hotspot) and the color temperature .

Are u using a difuser on the strobes? and have you use just one D2000w

it will be intesting to hear if he can cover a 15-16mm lens

 

Lambis

[frogfish 5]

Regarding the focusing light (which I assume is what you mean by "BEAM (hotspot)", I wouldn't want to put too much trust in my Japanese on something like this, but I THINK the Inon D2000W focusing light has a special circuit hat turns it off when the camera shutter is depressed. That may not work if all the wires the strobe expects to see aren't hooked up through the hotshoe connection, however.

 

Also, INON supplies red gels that can be stuck on over the focusing light. Presumably the intent is to minimize disruption and/or alarm that focusing lights can cause in light sensitive late night marine wildlife - apparently a lot of fishes etc. can't see red wavelengths very well. I imagine that this would also reduce the hotspot, but would presumably also introduce a red cast if the shut-off circuitry I've described didn't actually work.

 

Frogfish

[motionsync 0]

about focusing light:

 

Unfortunately, it only activate Z-220 strobe. The D-2000W 's target light does not work with shutter triger.

 

Thats is whant my Dealer in Japan told me

Lambis

[mattdiver 0]

Hi Lambis,

 

The focus light can be switched on for a short period of time (40s) using a single press of the button. This is great for focusing in low light situations. The focus light can also be turned on permanently by locking the button.

 

Either way, the light is switched off for 1/2s when you depress the shutter release. This avoids any hot spots on the picture.

 

Mat

[JackConnick 76]

I was thinking to have a strobe , not for general use but just only with situations where a strobe is needed.

 

The follow photo was taken in a low visability and contrast sea with a 16mm

Photo directly from the camera

 

I was thinking that a strobe like a inon would help me in this kind of problem

 

what are you thinking guys?

 

Well. a bit off-topic, but i don't think strobes would help unless you could get closer.

 

I would check out Alex Mustard's "Magic Filter" and do some manual white balance type shots.

 

Or, do what I did; Shoot RAW, then in Camera Raw try to find a small section of white to do an eye dropper raw correction with. Really worked well on several shots (see below), as long as there isn't too much particulate in the water, as it also brings up backscatter.

 

I think all fish should have a small white tag so we can do white balance later on...

 

Jack

 

[motionsync 0]

I have the Magic filter :-)

 

Mat are you sure that the New inons focus light work with the shuter release? Becauce my dealer told me that it work only with the old Z220 strobes?

 

I have a nexus housing where normaly it must work

[mattdiver 0]

Lambis, I'll try it next weekend and let you know...

[mikedive 0]

Hi folks ,

 

I have tested the D2000w over the weekend with 4 different cams : Olympus C5060 , 7070, SP350, E500 only at surface and with two settings optical and Oly- TTL , the results are :

 

Optical :

 

The D2000 is the best optical triggerd strobe I have seen it does all you need also the strobo fokus light of the E300 /500 and you have different settings .......as complicatet as flying an airplane but if you have learned it it´s no problem.

 

Wired :

 

There is a malfunktion I think : the quench signal is not canceld in manual and full mode so the wired TTL is alwas priority also in manual and in full modes if haveing a preflash TTL like the TTL from M.Heinrichs converters offer. There is no change by installing the little magnet ..... always the same .

 

Using a TTL cam you are not able to switch to manual if not posible to deaktivate the TTL converter ..... I am waiting for a test with a ..... Nikonos V to clear up this should also not work while the cam always is sending a quench signal.

 

Using a easy x- trigger hotshoe all is working well in manual.

 

Michael

[motionsync 0]

I am really curious about the combination 10,5mm - Diver Portraits - and D2000W Strobes I think that the power must be enough

 

Michael Its really intresting to see what the test with the Nikonos V will show!!

 

Lambis