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orlando_xxx

Attaching torch to strobearm

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hi there

 

i've got two inon strobearm system, attached to strobes.

 

For nightdive reason i am considering to attach my, quite heavy dive torch (mb sub extrem 14.4) to one of the strobarm. Unfortunatly the dive torch has no conector or something like that.

 

I thought about a "ring"-System over the lamp and with a pssiblity to attach an "ball" adapter.

 

Any ideas out there to help me

 

thanx

orlando

 

http://www.mb-sub.com/shop_images/extrem144.jpg

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Hey Orlando

 

I use two sets of Ultralight arms. Initially I tried a three-way adaptor to fit a dive light onto one of the arms. I have to say I didn't find this very satisfactory. Adjusting the arm and keeping the light and strobe on target seemed a herculean task usually requiring three hands.

 

I later switched to Inon strobes which, happily have built-in focussing lights - which are much better. But I have now added a further focussing light - to help with a Nikkor 105mm - but have fitted this on top of my housing using an Ultralight ball adaptor with the dive light holder I bought to use with the three-way clamp. This works pretty well.

 

So, my experience, fitting a light onto a strobe arm is more trouble than its worth.

 

Hope this helps!

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Orlando,

 

Putting a ball on the light and using a clamp is the best way to go. A three-way clamp at the base of the arm works ok, but the light should be wide-angle, so you don't have to re-adjust it everytime the arm is moved, and you don't have to worry about visible hot spots.

 

With my Hartenberger light, I bolted a ULCS ball fitting on to the handle. Because the control for this light is a dial on the back (with several power choices), this light has worked best in this configuration. The Hartenberger's come with an alternate wide angle reflector.

 

With my old light - a big plastic-bodied wide-angle light (I forget the name of the manufacturer) that took 8 big batteries - there was no good way to bolt the ball fitting directly on to the light. I got a piece of PVP piping of a diameter that the light body would just fit into, cut a slot in the pvc pipe section for the light's handle and switch, and bolted a ULCS ball fitting to the outside of the PVC piping. A small piece of bungie cord with hooks at each end crossed over the back of the light and then back to the ULCS fitting, ensuring that the light wouldn't fall out.

 

For smaller lights, you can get ULCS ball fittings pre-bolted onto a curved section of PVC pipe. The light rests in the PVC section, safely attached by two rubber loops cut from a bicycle inner tube.

 

Frogfish

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Orlando,

 

I'm not sure if it will work for you, but I welded a nut to the bolt of the ball clamp, and it seems to work a treat. I am not sure about the inon gear, but the Ikelite bolt and clamp are robust and it functionally works a treat.

 

Pics of the setup:

 

Pictures of rig

 

damien

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hi guys

 

thanx a lot for your answers and hints. i am getting to fix a ball adaptor on the torch holder and attach it with a clamp on a arm. hope, it works

 

to damien:

 

how much grams increased buoyancy

do you achieve with your attached blue floaters? what material is it?

 

greez

orlando

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I did not calculations, so cannot give you metrics. The material is a farily compressible foam that comes in 1.5 metre lengths, and is primarily used as a child's pool floatation toy. As such it provides greay bouyancy on the surface, but compresses at depth.

 

I find on a shallow dive (0-10m), it provides just enough bouyancy to stop the rig being heavy when only doing macro. On the surface it sinks without, and floats with, so it makes it easier to handle as you can let go of it.

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