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Anyone shooting Aquatica 5000 19mm Dome

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I am wondering how the quality of the pics are on the edges with the 19mm dome port for the Aquatica 5000 housing?

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I do not. I have the external mounted wideangle.

 

I leave in February and would be willing to take one for a run if Aquatica wants me to do it again. They did not have the dome port functioning when I took the prototype to the Bahamas.

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Hi. This is my first post. I'm a newcomer to UW photography, but I am currently using the CP 5000 with an Aquatica housing and the 19 mm WC-E68 WA lens with the Aquatica domeport. I also use a Ikelite DS-50 strobe. The edges appear very sharp unless you're zoomed way in. I have a trip report posted on Little Cayman at the Rodales site Rodales Scuba Diving Magazine entitled "The perfect dive vacation..." All the photos taken were with the WA lens except for the Queen Angel. This was my first trip with this setup. I previously was using a Ikelite housing a Oly 3040 with the wireless TTL...which I could never get working real well. Any suggestions would be helpful as I'm about as green as they come.

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I'm thinking about buying a CP 5000 w/ an aquatica housing. Does the Ike DS-50 have enough power or coverage to accomadate the 19mm lens or do I need to buy the DS-125. I'm tempted to buy the 125 anyway. What do y'all think. Thanks. -James

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Click on the link to Alin's gallery. Awesome pix Alin!

 

In particular, have a look at this one:

 

http://www.scubadiving.com/members/memberi...9580_2669_3.jpg

 

Notice how the center of the shot is well-lit but the corners are very dark? That's a result of using a wideangle lens with a strobe that doesn't have complete coverage. Sometimes that is what the photographer wants to do - for a dramatic effect. But other times, it's just plain frustrating!

 

That's why I recommend the DS125 - it's an awesome strobe for wideangle shooting.

 

Cheers

James

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I highly agree that fow WA work the DS-125 would be much better. I lost my diffuser for the DS-50 which would, I think, increase the coverage a bit. I don't think the decrease in output would be all that critical as I had the EV @ -1.3-2.0 for all shots. Even with that and a F-stop of 8.0, I would overexpose some shots...please see the anemonae shot. If you have the money, I think the DS-125 is much more versatile.

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I use 125s for everything. My old 200s (sold now) and 50s haven't been in the water for years. The 125 is better for macro as well in my opinion :ph34r:

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Davephdv:

 

Do you use TTL with your the WC-E68 and Aquatica dome port? I seem to consistently get overexposed shots with TTL and the dome port, especially with macro shots. The instruction manual seems to suggest that TTL can't be used since the sensor is blocked by the domeport. But, it seems that the dome doesn't obviously block that sensor. What's been your experience.

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If it partially blocks the sensor, then less light comes back to the sensor. So the camera "think" it needs to keep firing the flash. So it does.

 

Cheers

James

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With the Ike dome I get overexposed macro unless I use my "macro" settings. Listed here several times. Try f8, 1/500th, -2 strobe in menu, back off the strobe 1 1/2 to 2 ft. from the subject. Don't have much problem with close-ups, vise true macro. :ph34r:

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Hi Robert,

 

I'm using the 19mm lens in the Aquatica housing and I'm very happy with the results. Just be carefull that the camera is well positioned in the housing to be sure not to have the port in the frame.

I'm shooting only on breathold diving and natural light. The sharpness is great.

 

If you want to see some of the shots I took with it, drop me a note.

 

Fred.

 

fred@futurapnea.com

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I'm also using the 19mm with the Aquatica 5000. Results are great. My previous setup was an Olympus C3030 in an Ikelite housing with a Sea&Sea add-on lens. I'm getting much sharper pictures with the 5000.

 

I use a DS-50, but I'm getting my Ikelite 100a modified by Ike to be compatible with the 5000. An older (manual ) Ikelite MS with a diffuser also works OK.

 

If you lose the diffuser on a SS-50, a piece cut from a white plastic (grocery) bag taped on the front of the strobe gives identical results.

 

Richard

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