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rbibb

Keep my DS125 or buy Inon

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I'm looking at upgrading my camera to an EOS 5D in an Aquatica or Sea & Sea housing. I already own an Ike DS125 strobe and want to start using two strobes. My main problem is that all this gear is heavy and I'm worried about my baggage allowance. I already come out over the limit on most trips.

 

I love my DS125 but it is very heavy, two of them could just break the poor donkey's back.

 

What are your thoughts on me trading in the Ike against two new Inon Z220's (on that point is it worth getting Z240's over the Z220, I vaugely remember seeing a test once that said "no" but I cant find it)

 

I have no problem with the rechargable AA issue (I'm used to that with my Oly 5050)

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I have 2 220S's and love them. While not quite as powerful as the 125's, the size and wieght reduction in comparison are huge (as you know).

 

Plus the Sea & Sea sync cord is quite a bit more "robust" in practical operation then the Ike.

 

One thing though, new 220's are not available. The 240 is the only option at this performance level currently available from Inon.

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"I'm worried about my baggage allowance. I already come out over the limit on most trips.

 

I have no problem with the rechargable AA issue (I'm used to that with my Oly 5050)"

 

I have migrated to Z-240s and am happy with the change, but be advised the temp is a bit cooler than some people prefer. Close to daylight temp is my aim so the Inons fit the bill. Over the years Ikes have given me problems and while the service is superb (maybe "superb" isn't a good enough description) what I considered to be a hassle eventually caused me to look elsewhere in the strobe domain.

 

On the subject of wieght: Inons travel very light and very small, though they are a bit negative underwater, 2.5 ounces with rechargebles if I am not mistaken, but that is the tradeoff....small in your baggage but negative uw vs. big in your baggage but neutral/positive uw.

 

As far as AA's go, that too is a weight issue to me. Proprietary battery packs are a lot heavier than rechargable AA cells, so it helps your overall weight issue to carry AAs, and AA backups, compared to battery packs and backups.

 

It gets to be a tough calculation to use the equipment you prefer yet minimize your baggage fees.

 

I don't hesitate to recommend the Inons, and I'd go for the 240s, but want to point out again that the color temp is something you may want to look at since you have been shooting 4800 degree strobe(s), not to mention 4 or 5 ounces negative underwater (for two strobes).

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I recently went down the same path. I have a pair of DS125s, and have always loved them. They are a great strobe, but big and bulky, and heavy to pack.

 

I got an opportunity to try out the Z220, and was instantly amazed at how such a small light strobe can produce such good results.

 

Now I travel with 2 x Z220s as my main rig.

 

Don't underestimate how much benefit the lighter strobes will have underwater as well.

 

BTW, as others say, Ike's service is incredible. So far I've not needed to find out how it is with Inon. But I did with the Ike's.

 

Cheers

 

Des

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I always try and save weight on my dive kit. A lightweight travel BC, a lightweight reg (with a small guage or an Air-X computer), foot fins rather than boots and boot fins will save you enought to travel with both Inons and Ikes.

 

Just a different angle on the problem?

 

Alex

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I love my inon z 240s, lightweight, small, rapid refire rate, color temp has not been an issue for me.

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I always try and save weight on my dive kit. A lightweight travel BC, a lightweight reg (with a small guage or an Air-X computer), foot fins rather than boots and boot fins will save you enought to travel with both Inons and Ikes.

 

Just a different angle on the problem?

 

Alex

 

Hi Alex

 

Can't argue your logic there. I think a lightweight travel BC will be on my shopping list before my next holiday

 

Cheers

 

Des

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People who have an issue with the size of the DS125 never used an SS200 or SB104. I used to travel with 3 SS200's. I've seen table legs crash to the floor when I set my rig on it.

 

Interestingly, I've gone down the same road as Alex. I now put my sparse and ultra light dive kit plus spare parts and clothes in one bag under 50lbs/22kgs. I can still barely lift my carry-on to the overhead compartment. My "computer" bag carry-on looks like it is holding a desktop in it.

 

I wouldn't choose the strobes based on weight. Choose the ones that will work best for you. Your aren't going to sit there showing your photos to someone and say, " Yeah, the lighting really makes these pictures suck, but man my strobes sure were easier to carry." :)

 

I will only use Ikelite stobes. I hate them. :D

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Help me understand something about color temperature...

 

What's the big deal with strobe temperature when shooting in Raw and the Raw Converter allows you to alter the temperature and tint?

 

TomC

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It has to do with the difference in colour temperature between the ambient (ie. background) and strobe-lit portions of the image. If you start with a cool temperature strobe illuminating the foreground and "warm up" the image in the Raw converter (so you are warming foreground to compensate for the cool strobe temperature), then the background water will also have a less appealing warm tone - rather than a pleasing blue colour. Take a look at some of Alex Mustard's blues (and his article in UWP mag) for more detail on what I've tried to explain and examples of what I consider to be great blues.

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Anthony,

 

Well that was pretty obvious. Sometimes I can't see the forest because of all the trees.

Thanks for the explaination.

 

Tom :guiness:

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It has to do with the difference in colour temperature between the ambient (ie. background) and strobe-lit portions of the image. If you start with a cool temperature strobe illuminating the foreground and "warm up" the image in the Raw converter (so you are warming foreground to compensate for the cool strobe temperature), then the background water will also have a less appealing warm tone - rather than a pleasing blue colour.

I'm not so sure anyone should buy a 4800k strobe only because it has been suggested you must, or have to, warm the image in post-production. That's much more an issue of personal taste as well as a matter of how the image was shot. Personally I like daylight temp and seldom feel any need to warm an image as a matter of course. Indeed it was an eye-opening experience to my taste when I added 5500k strobes to my uw toolkit. And while I still shoot a couple 4800k strobes for some macro and certain fish images, I have become more and more a fan of 5500k. But if you like to incorporate a lot of post-production manipulation into your images, or often over-expose, 4800k is more forgiving in both situations.

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Hmmm,

 

I wish I had WA strobes as light as the Ike 125s for travelling.. I'm lugging two Sobtronic Megas... yes, Mega weight... (And a number of small ike 50s..)

Anyway. I can shoot 4 pictures a sec and the flash keeps up. I can change the color temperature with a turn of a switch on the strobe for those rich blues etc.. For macro however, I'm looking to buy the Inon's z240 with a Hw converter. If In the future I would like to do some macro with available light the inons let you put a filter on to warm things up.. So probably this will render my Subtronics useless... hmmm.. depressing aint it?

 

Espen :guiness:

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