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Aquatica D200 + iTTL converter

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Just thought this arrangement could be useful to anyone considering installing an iTTL converter in a Aquatica D200 housing.

The connection board makes it easier to bypass the iTTL converter and have all the 5 wires going directly to either of the nikonos sockets, for use with a housed SB800 for e.g.

Wiring is clean and does not hinder normal operation of the controls.

post-424-1158019433_thumb.jpg

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That looks good, thanks for posting. I am thinking of mounting one in my Seacam housing so this is very useful.

 

Cheers

James

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I also have the iTTL converter built in my housing. My iTTL converter shares the powersupply with my leakage warner, which is a 12V 23A battery. Unfortunately the battery is finished after approximately 7 hours (with strobe on). What kind of powersupply do you use? i'm looking for a small 12V alternative, because space is very limited in my housing.

 

cheers, Udo

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I also have the iTTL converter built in my housing. My iTTL converter shares the powersupply with my leakage warner, which is a 12V 23A battery. Unfortunately the battery is finished after approximately 7 hours (with strobe on). What kind of powersupply do you use? i'm looking for a small 12V alternative, because space is very limited in my housing.

 

cheers, Udo

I have an Aquatica housing with ittl converter installed. The converter is directl over my hot shoe connecter. not located by the shutter release as in your picture. there is plenty of room. will try to snap a picture and post it later. Uwphototech or reef photo can install the unit in your housing. I shot all week long and the battery was fine. not sure when to change it. will ask ryan.

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Batteries supposably last 1000 shots, I shot about that the week I was in little cayman and didn't need to change the battery. will use a new battery next time I use the housing and carry a spare

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Batteries supposably last 1000 shots, I shot about that the week I was in little cayman and didn't need to change the battery. will use a new battery next time I use the housing and carry a spare

 

Every 1000 shots? Do you really need an extra battery to have TTL? This is new for me. Man, that would cost me a fortune on batteries.

But is the TTL working with two strobes? I am looking for a friend of mine. He owns a d200 and want to buy a hugy housing for it. He needs two strobes that will do TTL for his macro shots. So, we are now looking for strobes that can do this for him. Any suggestions?

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Every 1000 shots? Do you really need an extra battery to have TTL? This is new for me. Man, that would cost me a fortune on batteries.

But is the TTL working with two strobes? I am looking for a friend of mine. He owns a d200 and want to buy a hugy housing for it. He needs two strobes that will do TTL for his macro shots. So, we are now looking for strobes that can do this for him. Any suggestions?

 

I used dual inon z240 strobes, battery lasted the entire trip, I called Reef photo and they told me the 1000 shot limit on the battery. wouild be nice if there was some way to test the battery for life left. otherwise safe move is fresh battery every trip.

Underwater photo is not a cheap hobby :lol:

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What kind of battery do you have in your housing critidoc? Is it a CR2032 cell? Mine is equiped with a 12 V 23a alkaline battery with a capacity of appr. 50 mAh. The converter consumes about 7 mA when the strobe is switched on. So, 50/7= 7 hours... Not too long i would say. BTW, nothing is said about the number of shots in the HW iTTL converter manual.

Batteries are only 2 euros: compared to rest of our cheap hobby it's not that much IMHO...

 

cheers, Udo

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What kind of battery do you have in your housing critidoc? Is it a CR2032 cell? Mine is equiped with a 12 V 23a alkaline battery with a capacity of appr. 50 mAh. The converter consumes about 7 mA when the strobe is switched on. So, 50/7= 7 hours... Not too long i would say. BTW, nothing is said about the number of shots in the HW iTTL converter manual.

Batteries are only 2 euros: compared to rest of our cheap hobby it's not that much IMHO...

 

cheers, Udo

I believe it is a lithium, need to check when i get home. Looks like the cr2032, flat disc. 7 hours use is a long time. each flash is a very short duration

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This is how my aquatica is set up

 

 

Can you explain why you need a TTL converter?

 

I am planning to buy a SB800 and connect through to the hot shoe, does this not work?

 

Tkx

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Hi Mark,

 

TTL converters (iTTL or eTTL) aloow you to use underwater strobes with DSLRs. If you just connect straight through to a housed flashgun like the SB800 you don't need one.

 

Martyn

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Hi Mark,

 

TTL converters (iTTL or eTTL) aloow you to use underwater strobes with DSLRs. If you just connect straight through to a housed flashgun like the SB800 you don't need one.

 

Martyn

 

An actual underwater strobe will cost less while providing wider coverage, faster recycle time, and more intensity with the Ikelite system...............

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I believe it is a lithium, need to check when i get home. Looks like the cr2032, flat disc. 7 hours use is a long time. each flash is a very short duration

 

If you really to save batteries consider deriving power from the +5V dc regulated power supply in the 10pin remote connector in the Nikon...

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An actual underwater strobe will cost less while providing wider coverage, faster recycle time, and more intensity with the Ikelite system...............

 

You know Ike, I was going to roll that point into my post, then I got distracted by someone asking me if I wanted a cup of tea and just wrapped up the post without it. Being British I said "yes" of course.

 

Martyn

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An actual underwater strobe will cost less while providing wider coverage, faster recycle time, and more intensity with the Ikelite system...............

 

So Ike, where is ther long-awaited ittl convertor circuitry outside the housing so I can get on with purchasing your nice ds200s to use with my seacam/d200in the cord . I would be happy to get them now with the EV controller, but you would make me happier if I knew there was an ittl controller cable or similar coming some ti

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So Ike, where is ther long-awaited ittl convertor circuitry outside the housing so I can get on with purchasing your nice ds200s to use with my seacam/d200in the cord . I would be happy to get them now with the EV controller, but you would make me happier if I knew there was an ittl controller cable or similar coming some ti

 

 

Rattus and others

 

Thanks! This is a great tool for someone in my current state: looking at what to buy

 

So as I understand it the SB800 which would connect through the housing to the hot shoe will be TTL.

 

If I get an UW strobe then I would need a converter.

 

Right?

 

Does anyone have experience with the SB800 UW?? This would allow me to have a flash for on land as well

 

Tkx!

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Ikelite has sync cords #4104.31 and #4104.32 that allow manual use of the DS SubStrobes with any housing that has a Nikonos bulkhead. Shown on following URL, and at bottom of that page what contacts to cover if you do not have the special sync cord. Manual EV Controller can also be utilized.

 

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/sync_cord_d1x.html

 

TTL circuitry in a sync cord will be available eventually. Not a cheap solution, but should work fine if we can work it into the schedule. Too many projects and not enough fingers to keep up...............

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Rattus and others

 

Thanks! This is a great tool for someone in my current state: looking at what to buy

 

So as I understand it the SB800 which would connect through the housing to the hot shoe will be TTL.

 

If I get an UW strobe then I would need a converter.

 

Right?

 

Does anyone have experience with the SB800 UW?? This would allow me to have a flash for on land as well

 

Tkx!

 

Yes, you don't need the converter to have ittl [and other modes depending on camera] with the sb800.

 

I have one housed in a Sealux housing...used it together with a DS-125 when my 2nd DS-125 flooded [possible to do this with a Fuji S2]. The SB800 can be used for macro, strobe [RPT] mode could be interesting to play around with...if you want to use a 2nd SB800 you have to go for a Sealux housing [or any other that has a window over the sensor] but range for reliable communication between master and slave might be a problem underwater [don't really know only have 1 sb800 housed myself].

Agree that it is better to use a proper underwater strobe(s).

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This is how my aquatica is set up

 

 

PS: Consider using shrinkwrap tubing around the converter to make sure that the hotshoe plug in the converter will not come out or make bad contact [also for the other plugs] with repeated operation and/or vibration.

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This is how my aquatica is set up

 

 

...isn't the wiring supposed to look like this post-424-1163734828_thumb.jpg the 4 cond. flat cable is actually the strobe output and should be connected to nikonos bulkhead while the 6 cond plug on the back right should be connected to hot shoe since ittl needs all 5 signals. You say you were shooting wired like this?

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Ikelite has sync cords #4104.31 and #4104.32 that allow manual use of the DS SubStrobes with any housing that has a Nikonos bulkhead. Shown on following URL, and at bottom of that page what contacts to cover if you do not have the special sync cord. Manual EV Controller can also be utilized.

 

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/sync_cord_d1x.html

 

TTL circuitry in a sync cord will be available eventually. Not a cheap solution, but should work fine if we can work it into the schedule. Too many projects and not enough fingers to keep up...............

 

well, I might just have to go with the ds200 and the EV controller and wait patiently then.

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Yes, you don't need the converter to have ittl [and other modes depending on camera] with the sb800.

 

I have one housed in a Sealux housing...used it together with a DS-125 when my 2nd DS-125 flooded [possible to do this with a Fuji S2]. The SB800 can be used for macro, strobe [RPT] mode could be interesting to play around with...if you want to use a 2nd SB800 you have to go for a Sealux housing [or any other that has a window over the sensor] but range for reliable communication between master and slave might be a problem underwater [don't really know only have 1 sb800 housed myself].

Agree that it is better to use a proper underwater strobe(s).

 

 

Thanks!!

 

I have decided to start with 1 Inon z240 for now. As there will be so much to learn and deal with I want to go easy for now. In the future I will likely add on an SB800 to get more options UW and have a topside flash.

 

Thanks again to everyone for the great help!

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