Tokina 10-17 FE test fotos I

[lauri 0]

Has anybody yet found out how much you'd need to cut off the Ikelite #5503 port shade?

 

BR,

LN

[MikeVeitch 0]

is it just for Canon or is there a Nikon mount too?

 

if so...

 

who wants to buy my 12-24?

 

[3@5 0]

is it just for Canon or is there a Nikon mount too?

 

if so...

 

who wants to buy my 12-24?

 

yes mike it's available for nikon as well

 

see here

 

sorry dunno what i'd do with your 12-24

/paul

[rai 0]

Hi Rai,

 

Me gusto those land shots. That's a nice lens indeed. I shall have to get onbe for sure. Thanks for the looks. The 17mm mode in your friend's shots UW also look like its pretty handy at 10 thru 17.

 

Best,

 

Tim

 

Thank you Tim. I'm glad you liked the shots. I'm convinced that the 17 mm focal (and all the range from 10 mm) is also very useful, specially for CFWA but I couldn't check it out as far as I would yet. Weather conditions and proper subjects were too elusive to me recently and all my test were focused basically at 10 mm (although I also made some photos a t 17 mm.

 

 

It looks like Ike has now officially endorsed this lens:

 

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/2port_canon.html#seedown

 

The 8inch port is not even specially recommended, it also fits in the 5503.

Has anybody yet found out how much you'd need to cut off the Ikelite #5503 port shade?

 

BR,

LN

 

 

In my opinion the main use of the 8" port is for over/under shots, as David Haas has wisely pointed.

For any other use the 5503 works just great (and it's not so bulky).

 

Well, In fact Yesterday I coud make another test dive. I checked that dome port shade is very sensitive to a proper alignment. Any little accuracy error in port and shade mounting may result in vignetting and you my want to try to trim the shade just slightkly to give you more room for misalingment errors.

But I also found a annoying issue of inner reflections not . The spring of the zoom clamp apears in many of my shots . I believe that some better alignment of the clamp over the lens will help a lot, but I'm not sure of how much (in some photos you can see more area than just the springs).

 

I'm very tempted to pick one up, but the lack of a filter holder is making me wary.

Does anyone have any ideas on adding a magic filter to this lens?

 

I'm also very interested in this posibility. All I can say now that there's room for it and probably something could be done. Proper fixing it's the only issue...

 

is it just for Canon or is there a Nikon mount too?

 

Yes, as Paul has just pointed to you. In this very thread I already posted this (that might interest you):

 

In this thread of a spanish forum, he put some very good examples of the Tokina 10-17 and almost at the end of the post you can find some shots of a comparation of angles of view of the 10.5 and the tokina (at 10 and 17):

 

http://forobuceo.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24958

 

About your 12-24, this is a complementary lens with a only a small area of common angle of view. You may want to keep it.

 

Rai

[pakman 0]

now does anyone know which port extension I should get for this Tokina lens behind an athena glass dome (and S&S housing)...

[rai 0]

now does anyone know which port extension I should get for this Tokina lens behind an athena glass dome (and S&S housing)...

 

 

Hi pakman

 

AFAIK the shots my friend did (the link repeated in my last message) were done in one S&S housing for a Nikon D200 and the Athena dome with no port extension.

 

Rai

[pakman 0]

Hi pakman

 

AFAIK the shots my friend did (the link repeated in my last message) were done in one S&S housing for a Nikon D200 and the Athena dome with no port extension.

 

Rai

 

thanks Rai!

 

ooooh... so tempting to run out tomorrow during lunch to see if any of the shops in Hong Kong have that Tokina lens!

[Rattus 0]

Sounds about right (no extension). The Tokina is a short lens at 71mm. That's only 10mm longer than the Sigma 15mm fisheye, which requires no extension for either the large or small S&S domes. You might get slightly better corners with the SX Extension ring (20mm) but then you might get vignetting, and you introduce the liability of the dome unbayonetting.**

 

So first up try it without.

 

Martyn

 

** I'm working on a Sea&Sea extension ring locking solution. I'll show it when its done.

[pakman 0]

Hmm... well the tokina is about 71.5mm length vs 90mm on the Canon 10-22 I have. I think I have the SX 40mm ext. so maybe the 20mm is what I need (edited: oops, can't do simple arithmetic, dooh!)

 

also the d200 has a 1.5x crop factor right? so if Rai's friend is getting pretty good corners there, shouldn't be a problem with a Canon 400D (1.6x crop sensor)...

Edited December 18, 2006 by pakman

[vannar 0]

I´ts interesting to se how the corners turn out with the tokina and the athena dome.

 

I have the ahena port and a canon 10-22 lens and it a good combination but the corners are soft... (I belive that john bantin posted a thread about this issue a while ago)

[pakman 0]

I have the ahena port and a canon 10-22 lens and it a good combination but the corners are soft... (I belive that john bantin posted a thread about this issue a while ago)

 

yup I've noticed that too on a few w/a reefscape pics with my Athena glass dome/ 40mm SX ext./ Canon 10-22mm/ Rebel XT... was debating getting a diopter.

[UWphotoNewbie 1]

Well, In fact Yesterday I coud make another test dive. I checked that dome port shade is very sensitive to a proper alignment. Any little accuracy error in port and shade mounting may result in vignetting and you my want to try to trim the shade just slightkly to give you more room for misalingment errors.

 

This is also the case with the 10.5mm. I like having the shade to protect the dome but I have considered omitting the shade with the FE. The alignment is pretty easy to test as part of my setup process. The main problem is in using multiple port extensions and the screw on bayonet style mounting of this extension with the low-profile latches. Every time I re-mount the extension it goes on differently and you have to re-adjust the dome shade to make sure its aligned properly when the port is installed correctly. Its one more step but I'm happy not to have multiple 8" domes.

 

But I also found a annoying issue of inner reflections not . The spring of the zoom clamp apears in many of my shots . I believe that some better alignment of the clamp over the lens will help a lot, but I'm not sure of how much (in some photos you can see more area than just the springs).

 

 

I would recommend painting the springs or anything that shows up in your pictures black. Testors makes some excellent flat black model paint. I covered my lens ring on my Canon P&S with black tape because it was reflecting CANON onto the port. I haven't used the 8" dome with any lens using the springs. The only zoom I use it with is the 12-24mm which does not need the zoom clamp.

[rai 0]

This is also the case with the 10.5mm. I like having the shade to protect the dome but I have considered omitting the shade with the FE. The alignment is pretty easy to test as part of my setup process. The main problem is in using multiple port extensions and the screw on bayonet style mounting of this extension with the low-profile latches. Every time I re-mount the extension it goes on differently and you have to re-adjust the dome shade to make sure its aligned properly when the port is installed correctly. Its one more step but I'm happy not to have multiple 8" domes.

 

I suppose that some kind of adhesive (and waterproof ;-)) marking would help. Just a piece of paper with marks painted on it, covered with traspanrent adhesive tape could be very useful.

 

 

I would recommend painting the springs or anything that shows up in your pictures black. Testors makes some excellent flat black model paint. I covered my lens ring on my Canon P&S with black tape because it was reflecting CANON onto the port. I haven't used the 8" dome with any lens using the springs. The only zoom I use it with is the 12-24mm which does not need the zoom clamp.

 

 

Uhmmm! Nice idea. I didn't even think of painting the spring. This was not the 8" dome port (just the 6") and there were some other reflections but the springs were the more conspicous. I was thinking in a black inner sleeve (or just a paint layer) for the cilinder that couples with the clamp, but certainly painting the springs could be very helpful too.

 

Rai

Edited December 21, 2006 by Rai

[Rocha 0]

Well, this lens is the only option for Canon if you want a fisheye in a cropped sensor. But now Nikon users have two choices. Here is an interesting comparison between the Tokina and the 10.5mm fisheye Nikkor:

 

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp...essage=21175059

 

The Nikkor seems to have a bit less chromatic aberration and reproduce more details, but I think the Tokina is a great choice for those looking for versatility.

[Elli and Ted 0]

This is my very first picture with the 10-17mm tokina, I cant compare it with any other lenses, but in my opinion its just fine."What a Xmas"

 

Ted

[pakman 0]

Well, went to the camera shop district today with the idea of hunting for an elusive 77mm diopter for my Canon 10-22mm...

 

Didn't find a diopter, but ended up leaving the shop with a Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye instead!

 

Rai - you said your friend was using his Tokina on a S&S D200 housing and Athena dome without any extension, right? This is how it looks on mine w/o any extension. Lens looks pretty far into the dome. Maybe a small extension might be better. 40mm ext I have is too long as there is vignetting from the dome itself (even with the shade removed).

 

Edit: just noticed on the Athena site that the Nikkor 10.5 FE is recommended to be used w/o any extension and the Athena dome. The Tokina FE is just a 1/4" longer so maybe I don't need an extension . Will try to test it out if I can get some pool time soon.

 

 

and just a quick street shot on the way back from the store... Interesting lens...

Edited January 6, 2007 by pakman

[rai 0]

Sorry for the answer delay. I was on holidays.

 

Yesterday I talked with my friend and told me the he uses the Athena dome with no extension ring without any trouble. He also told me that he was pretty sure (but no testing indeed) that with a extension ring, the vignetting will probably appear.

[pakman 0]

Sorry for the answer delay. I was on holidays.

 

Yesterday I talked with my friend and told me the he uses the Athena dome with no extension ring without any trouble. He also told me that he was pretty sure (but no testing indeed) that with a extension ring, the vignetting will probably appear.

 

thanks for replying Rai. actually I noticed that there is vignetting even above water with the ext. (with and without the dome hood)

[pmooney 6]

From my first dives with the 10-17 lense.

 

It looks promising.

 

Used it on an Aquatica D2X with a 6" port.

 

I modified an existing ( Canon 50mm macro ) gear to use the zoom

 

[dhaas 40]

Check out those corners in Peter's pics........

 

Fisheye's rule!!!!

 

It will be a hit, especially for us Canon shooters. Plus it is SO compact it even fits in the little Ikelite #5503 "standard" 6" dome port

 

Of course, the 8" dome port wil be used for over / under images.....

 

dhaas

[pakman 0]

oh that is beautiful Peter... Can't wait to give this lens a try in Palau next month!

[Rattus 0]

Rai - you said your friend was using his Tokina on a S&S D200 housing and Athena dome without any extension, right? This is how it looks on mine w/o any extension. Lens looks pretty far into the dome. Maybe a small extension might be better. 40mm ext I have is too long as there is vignetting from the dome itself (even with the shade removed).

 

Edit: just noticed on the Athena site that the Nikkor 10.5 FE is recommended to be used w/o any extension and the Athena dome. The Tokina FE is just a 1/4" longer so maybe I don't need an extension . Will try to test it out if I can get some pool time soon.

 

 

Hi Pakman,

 

It's pretty obvious from your rig shot that you ideally want an extension tube in there. With that Athena dome I'd say you really want the longest extension that doesn't cause vignetting. you can work that out in air. Just unhook the dome and move it away from the housing until you start to see some of it in the captured images (viewfinder lies obviously). Then move it back about 1cm for comfort.

 

By the looks of the image, I'd guess the 40mm ring is going to be too much and you'll be wanting the 22mm.

 

Martyn

[pakman 0]

you're probably right Martyn. There is just the slightest of vignetting with the 40mm ext (only ext I have). I did do some quick bath tub tests (have't had time to test in a pool) and tried some close focus shots. Looked pretty nice. But will give the 22mm ext a shot.

[herbko 0]

Has anyone tried this lens on a 5D or 1ds? It'd be interesting to see how much of the image beyond the cropped sensor edge is useful.

[Guest segal3]

Here's a few samples on a 5D, Herb:

 

http://chinese.engadget.com/2006/11/10/tok...sheye-canon-5d/

http://dc.watch.impress.co.jp/cda/review/2...11/17/5039.html

 

I'd seen a set in English I think, but I haven't found that again yet...