Tokina 10-17 FE test fotos I

[serge 2]

OK, i NEED this lens.

 

I am going to Japan this week to pick up my new Eos 30D with INON X2 housing ... i know it is quite hopeless ... but does anyone know, if it's possible to fit this lens under the Dome-port for the X2.

Extensions, yes or no? >> japanese shops offer a Dome for the canon 15mm Fisheye ... maybe this one is enough? and thay also offer one with extension for the canon 14 mm lens.

 

anyone knows if one of the two might fit? or something else?

 

thanks

[pakman 0]

By the looks of the image, I'd guess the 40mm ring is going to be too much and you'll be wanting the 22mm.

 

Martyn

 

well picked up a 22mm extension this weekend. no vignetting during topside tests. Will need to get into a pool sometime.

[pmooney 6]

I got my lense from Yodobashi Camera @ Uemeda Station Osaka on New Years Eve.

They are the Japanese equivelent of B&H Photo and have stores in Tokyo & Osaka, and do have some english speaking staff for gaijin travellers.

 

Got this self portrait yesterday.

 

 

 

and cropped

 

[rai 0]

well picked up a 22mm extension this weekend. no vignetting during topside tests. Will need to get into a pool sometime.

 

If vignetting didn't appear in topside tests, it won't appear UW. But you still have to test in the pool for corner blurring. Better if you try with and without the extension. If blur doesn't shows up in both cases you can choose using the extension or not, depending on what you wanna do: over/under with extension and CFWA without it in order of taking profit of the really small minimum focus distance.

 

Rai

[pakman 0]

LOL! Nice pics Peter! which camera was that shot with?

 

Rai - thanks for the advice... will give both setups a try

[pmooney 6]

I have been shooting this lens on a D2X in an Aquatica housing , no extension ring and have been using 6'' custom dome that I had made.

 

It really has been a lot of fun, although I have spent most of my time at 10mm rather than the 17mm end which had been my norm. I am starting to get a feel for it now and am really looking forward to using it on a big dome as soon as the weather breaks.

[pakman 0]

oops silly me, I forgot you had mentioned that already when you posted the turtle pics...

[Hobbes382 0]

I am very interested in this lens; especially for my upcoming snorkel trip to the Silver Banks in March :-) But does anyone know how it might perform behind a 6" dome? I am actually using the Canon 17-40 lens behind the Ikelite #5503.51 6" dome at the moment. Ike's port chart says to use the #5503 6" dome or the 8" dome fir this Tokina fisheye. What will happen if I use the 5503.51 port instead?

 

Thanks in advance.

[KenByrne 0]

I went to a local freshwater site at the weekend to try out the Tokina lens with my D70 and Ike housing. First problem I had was that when I put the camera in the housing I could quite clearly see the shade at 10mm. I removed the shade but would prefer the minor protection this gives. On quite a lot of shots I had some flare from the flash on the left side and a strange curved line which is caused by the flash reflecting off something or refracting through the edge of the port. If it's the latter then trimming the shade and replacing it should help.

 

At 17mm and F8 the corners seem reasonable sharp.

 

 

 

This shot shows the flare problem. It also shows the fisheye distortion. Again shot at f8.

 

 

There's a bit of a hotspot on this one but less, I think because there's a subject on the left.

 

Finally a couple of available light shots. In each case I had to dial in about -1.5 exposure compensation to stop the top of the picture burning out. It was a dark day with low vis and I guess the extreme wide angle was picking up too much variation between the dark bottom and the surface light for the meter to cope.

 

1/45 at f3.5 no major soft corners even wide open.

 

 

1/15 at f3.5

 

[pakman 0]

Ken, thanks for posting the pics. I'm not sure if I see that flare line you're referring to... are you talking about the backscatter on the left (pic #3)? I'm not an expert but I did notice when I took this lens down this weekend for a quick 10min test dive that I had to be a lot more careful with strobe placement (vs my old 10-22 lens) otherwise I'd get similiar backscatter/ hotspots...

Edited January 29, 2007 by pakman

[KenByrne 0]

In the backscatter on pic 3 there's a bright white curved line. When I look again it's not as obvious on this shot as some others because it sort of follows the edge of the container. I think if I can get the strobe placement right to avoid the backscatter I'll lose this flare as well.

[Hobbes382 0]

I went to a local freshwater site at the weekend to try out the Tokina lens with my D70 and Ike housing.

 

 

Ken,

 

Thanks for posting those shots. I'm wrestling with a decision to pick up this lens or the Canon 10-22 rectilinear UWA for my RebelXT. What dome port were you using with the Tokina in your Ike housing, 6" or 8"? That's the other half of my dilema, which dome port to get.

 

Thanks for your help.

[pakman 0]

Ken,

 

Thanks for posting those shots. I'm wrestling with a decision to pick up this lens or the Canon 10-22 rectilinear UWA for my RebelXT. What dome port were you using with the Tokina in your Ike housing, 6" or 8"? That's the other half of my dilema, which dome port to get.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

I'm not an expert but have limited experience with a 10-22. It's an impressive topside lens and does a great job uw if you are doing blue water shots. But, if you are trying to do close up wide angle shots of reefs, the corners are soft at the wide zoom range (10-15mm). A friend who has an Ikelite has expressed similiar problems. Now the solution would be to get a diopter... But the problem is finding a quality diopter in a 77mm filter size! The Canon one is about $150 plus change. and only +2 I think. I did pick up a cheap Hoya single element +2 diopter to fool around with, but the topside test with it were so disappointing that I will not even try in uw. Overall picture quality was degraded and the corners were real soft. So until I hear from someone who's got the same dome and housing who has gotten good results with the expensive Canon diopter, I am going to stick with the Tokina for u/w WA use.

[KenByrne 0]

To answer the question I was using the 5503 6" dome.

 

I've also got a Nikon 12-24 lens and using that the corners are a little soft, although not so bad when the lens is stopped down. I did pick up a diopter for it but didn't find it helped particulary. I also found that the filter mount was so thick it caused vingnetting at 12mm. This may be the same for the Canon 10-22.

 

With regard to the flare I've looked at my shots again and noticed I didn't have the problem on the second dive so I'm convinced it's a flash placement problem. I need to do more work to learn just where to place the strobes.

[marinedomain 0]

Shot the below today with the Tokina 10-17 (kindly lent to me by Peter Mooney) on a Nikon D200 with a single Sea&Sea YS90DX strobe, was using an 8'' dome with strobe placed directly above dome angled to the surface at a 30 degree angle. No cropping of pics has been done.

 

 

 

 

 

Regards

Gary

Edited January 30, 2007 by marinedomain

[pakman 0]

Gary, you and Peter are killing me! I'm dying to try my Tokina FE out in warm blue waters! Great shots!

[marinedomain 0]

Just to rub it in, some more from todays dive. Using the same setup.

 

 

 

Starting to get the hang of lining things up using the reflection in the dome

 

 

Regards

Gary

Edited January 31, 2007 by marinedomain

[pmooney 6]

Perhaps you can try to get a little light into the mask , bring up those lovely eyes.

[dhaas 40]

Peter and others,

 

This lens keeps looking more and more intriguing......

 

I read at one web site something about "Quick Focus Shift" mechanism allowing manual focus after AF. But when I look at Tokina's own site detailing this lens there are no details.....

 

Does the 10-17mm have the same "pull back" clutch to shift from AF to manual focus some of the other Tokina lenses have?

 

Being a wide, wide lens I expect most would shoot it in AF anyway....

 

Any details appreciated...

 

dhaas

[pakman 0]

dhaas, no such luck... you need to switch the focus switch to manual.

[dhaas 40]

pakman,

 

That's the news I wanted, anyway. I couldn't see any switch on any of the lens photos....

 

I am an AF junkie, never using Manual focussing, even with macro.....

 

Thanks for your insights!

 

dhaas

[pakman 0]

OK, back from Palau. Absolutely love this Tokina FE lens! Never took out my Canon 10-22 once during the entire trip. Took me awhile to get use to strobe placement, especially on closeup WA shots. The 22mm port extension + Athena Dome worked out perfectly.

 

Jellyfish lake @17mm

 

Jellyfish Lake @10mm (CS2 post processed for the blue sky)

 

Turtle @ 10mm

 

Juvenile Napoleon Wrasse @ 17mm hamming it up for the camera...

 

Chandelier Cave @ 10mm

Edited February 27, 2007 by pakman

[Nunomix 0]

The pictures look great Pakman!!!

 

Makes me wanna get the lens too. I am going to Utila on 7th April and I was still not able to test my 10-22 properly in the Dutch murky waters. I hope I dont get disappointed with it.

 

How did you use the zoom ring?

 

Regards,

 

Nuno

[pakman 0]

How did you use the zoom ring?

 

thanks Nuno. I re-used my S&S 60mm macro focus ring with some foam tape underneath as the 60mm focus ring is just a little bit too wide.

[Nunomix 0]

thanks Nuno. I re-used my S&S 60mm macro focus ring with some foam tape underneath as the 60mm focus ring is just a little bit too wide.

 

Thats right. I think you told me this before. How well does the zoom ring work then? Does it slip once in a while or was it working like with the o-rings?