Sea&sea I-TTL Converter Problem

[shchae 3]

Hi,

 

I am reporting my problem with S&S i-TTL converter. While, I am using it

with my Nexus D-200 housing + 2 x Z-220 (later w/ 2xYS120Duo), battery

compartment of TTL converter start disintegrated in underwater. It looks like it has

something to do with electricity. Battery compartment was not fluded & converter

is still working but, it is basically melting.

 

This problem wast reported to S&S through the dealer.

 

Sam

Edited January 10, 2007 by shchae

[jcclink 8]

This unit is obviously not ready for prime time. The problems continue. Besides mine not syncing the 2 strobes & problem with smooth rotation of adjustment knob, the jam nut on the connector (to housing) froze in place. The stainless material used for the connector is not totally compatible with some bulkhead materials - electrolysis problem. S&S should have used the same material as their sync cords. At least my Nexus bulkheads are happy with that. Still waiting for repair or replacement from the S&S Service Center. It may be on Ebay soon <_<

[Rattus 0]

Could you post a picture or two maybe? Is it the plastic around the battery compartment that's melting due to heat or what?

 

Sounds disturbing.

 

Martyn

[shchae 3]

I sent pictures to Sea&sea & they will review it first & make sure I did nothing wrong first.

 

If you are using S&S i-TTL converter with NEXUS (which has metal camera base. Sea&sea housings are using plastic base) HOUSING + INON Z220/Z240 strobe, just BE AWARE of this problem & would like to suggest to wait for further information/instruction.

 

Sam

Edited January 10, 2007 by shchae

[shchae 3]

Re jcclink's comment,

 

I also, noticed S&S recently changed material of Sync connector from Aluminum to Stainless steel and jam nut is still aluminum & experianced same problem (nothing to do with converter but, regular cable I am talking about). It is rapid corrosion problem & happens when two different metals meet each other. At this present time, all you can do is put more grease to thread.... & hope they find a solution.

 

Sam

Edited January 11, 2007 by shchae

[jcclink 8]

Regarding the converter, both the connector & jam nut appeared to be stainless. The Nexus bulkheads look like anodized aluminum. Can someone confirm this? (All my stuff is in the shop at the moment so can't check.)

[shchae 3]

Here is picture of my i-ttl converter. It is not just coating is off but, you

can see rough surface of battery compartment. It is looks better

as completely dry now but, was looked ugly when it was wet & it was

melting like green gel( Can someone tell what it is ?? Is it O.K. to touch ???).

It all happened in total of 5 dives in 2 days.

 

S&S believes it happens because Nexus housing is using metal camera

base(grounded with camera ?) & it also, happen with Inon Z-220/240 strobes

ONLY.

 

I shipped all my stuffs to them for further investigation.

 

Sam

Edited January 11, 2007 by shchae

[pakman 0]

Interesting... so far I my TTL converter hasn't had a meltdown yet... but I guess I'm safe with my S&S housing.

 

Sorry to hear about the your problems Sam.

[Reefwreck 0]

Interesting... so far I my TTL converter hasn't had a meltdown yet... but I guess I'm safe with my S&S housing.

 

Sorry to hear about the your problems Sam.

 

I too, am very sorry to hear about your problems.

 

I have the Sea&Sea TTL converter with the NEXUS D200 housing, an INON Z-220 and Z-240 strobe. I've logged about 20 dives with the set-up so far, and have not experienced any problems remotely similar to the photo you have posted. The interior of my unit's compartment is spotless as well.

 

Just curious, did you ever change the battery on the unit?

 

I'd be interested to hear what Sea&Sea analysis turns up.

 

Good luck.

 

Michael.

[dbh 0]

I had 25 dives on mine in Bonaire (D220 - Subal - Inon Z240 (2)). I just changed the battery last night and it all looks like the day I got it.

 

Strange yours acted this way. Keep us informed.

 

Dave

[shchae 3]

O.K. thanks for good words....Few more things....

 

1.S&S is/was aware of this problem when I reported & it was NOT just me having problem but,

somebody already had same problem.

 

2.I did not want to make it too big issue out of it but, my Nexus housing was damaged too.....

Those of you who did not had problem, please, carefully watch your HOUSING & converter.

My housing was almost new & it looks like 10 year old housing now with corrosion everywhere.

I shipped my housing to S&S too.

 

3.My converter was new + new battery & it was first diving trip since I got it. It was i-TTL

converter II designed for D70,D200 & D80 additionally & only few of them were sold so far.

 

 

Sam

[EspenRekdal 1]

O.K. thanks for good words....Few more things....

 

1.S&S is/was aware of this problem when I reported & it was NOT just me having problem but,

somebody already had same problem.

 

2.I did not want to make it too big issue out of it but, my Nexus housing was damaged too.....

Those of you who did not had problem, please, carefully watch your HOUSING & converter.

My housing was almost new & it looks like 10 year old housing now with corrosion everywhere.

I shipped my housing to S&S too.

 

3.My converter was new + new battery & it was first diving trip since I got it. It was i-TTL

converter II designed for D70,D200 & D80 additionally & only few of them were sold so far.

Sam

 

I had the same problem. I'm not sure what version of the converter I have. Mine was used with a D2x housing. I expect that strobe type is irrelevant because the electrolysis occurs between the converter and the housing. The problem is the Nexus housing which should have had an insulated base.

 

My housing made it through the ordeal without any damage and I had 10 dives or so without any ill effects until the dive things started to happen. I noticed that the light on the converter turned red in periods. (I thought the battery was dying, but it performed great for the entire dive.)

 

A plastic base for the Nexus, a insulated battery compartment would solve the problem. I hope both Sea&sea and Nexus fix this as the combination is very popular and many will be unhappy if no solution is presented.

 

Espen

[shchae 3]

O.K. It is now confirmed that it happened to other member too. Now I will share

picture of my poor housing.

 

Sam

[jcclink 8]

The electrolysis is the result of connecting the stainless converter connector to the aluminum bulkhead on the Nexus. S&S should go back to aluminum connectors (like their sync cords are/were). Something that will defintely help is to attach a small zinc washer to the housing. The zinc will dissolve instead of housing parts. I've had my YS90's connected to my Nexus D70 for a couple of weeks via S&S cords with aluminum connector with minimal problems. Only some discoloration of a few anodized parts. This may not be the best practice but I figure if it doesn't leak don't mess with it. So far so good. I don't view this as being a Nexus problem. I'd hate to see a plastic camera mount. It would be more flexible than the metal one & probably cause some control alignment issues, especially with the heavier lenses like 17-55 & 105VR. I would not recommend using this converter on a Nexus housing (no experience with other makes) at this time until S&S fixes the problems. Not holding my breath for a factory replacement unit either. Mine may or may not make a good paperweight. In either case I won't dive the current design again.

 

P.S. It possible that the metal D200/D2X body vs the plastic D70 body could be playing at part in these problems.

Edited January 13, 2007 by jcclink

[BrantD 0]

If anyone is giving up on the S&S i-ttl converter, decides to make a paperweight out of it, or just wants to sell one. Drop me a line, as I will soon be adding one to my new S&S, D-200 set-up. thanks!

Brant

DBD123 at aol.com

[jcclink 8]

If anyone is giving up on the S&S i-ttl converter, decides to make a paperweight out of it, or just wants to sell one. Drop me a line, as I will soon be adding one to my new S&S, D-200 set-up. thanks!

Brant

DBD123 at aol.com

 

Brant - I should know in a week or 2. There's a possibility that I may get a factory replacement instead of the shop repairing mind. Hopefully the converter materials are more compatible with your S&S D200 than my Nexus D70. Keep in touch.

Jim

[BrantD 0]

Jim,

I'll hold off buying a new one for a while, so let me know when you decide.

I agree, I think they are fine with a S&S housing. It was one of the decideing factors for the housing. Wish now they would come out with a better view finder!

 

Brant

Edited January 14, 2007 by BrantD

[shchae 3]

Sea&sea announced;

 

"This product (TTL Converter) is compatible only with the above SEA&SEA Housings and Strobes. Use of other equipment void product warranty."

 

....................

 

Sam

[Kimmeineche 0]

Hi jcclink and other participants of this thread!

 

I'm very sorry to hear about the problems with corrosion, etc. on housings with this converter that seemed to be a perfect solution to the TTL-problems in the first place!

 

Adding a piece of zinc to the nexus-housing (or other housing made of aluminium for that matter) also means a penetration of the original painting/coatning to get the zinc connected to the housing. I think I would be very carefull about doing this.... also because you will have to mount the piece of zinc with a screw, which needs a drilled hole in the HOUSING!!!

 

Even I'm not a fan of plastic anyway, I think mounting connectors/plugs on the S&S-converter like those of Delrin, found on the Ikelite strobecabels could be a possible solution to the problem.... if it's possible at all to change the connectors/plugs?

I have been using Ikelite-cables with these connectors for years without any problems.

 

Just my 2cents words......

 

Best regards from Kim Meineche

Edited January 21, 2007 by Kimmeineche

[shchae 3]

Kim,

Thanks for your interest & suggestion.

Seacam put a zinc plate in between housing & it's handle and does not requires to drill the hole on housing and we can do similar with other housing too, if necessary. Zinc will help/protect housing from Normal corrosion (On the ship/boat, zinc plate works because it is a lot softer than steel & it melt over the time. I am not 100% sure how it works with marine-grade aluminum though)& I do not think it is going to protect the housing from the problem I had as it happen all in total of 5 dive/2-3 hours.

 

Sam

Edited January 22, 2007 by shchae

[Kimmeineche 0]

----- cut

I am not 100% sure how it works with marine-grade aluminum though)& I do not think it is going to protect the housing from the problem I had as it happen all in total of 5 dive/2-3 hours.

 

Sam

 

Hi sam!

 

Galvanic Corrosion can be very aggressive, special if electricity is involved........!

 

I have not seen how the zinc is mounted on the seacam-housing with my own eyes, but if it suposed to have any effect I think the zincplate MUST have physical contact to the housing!

 

Kim! :-)

[EspenRekdal 1]

Hi sam!

 

Galvanic Corrosion can be very aggressive, special if electricity is involved........!

 

I have not seen how the zinc is mounted on the seacam-housing with my own eyes, but if it suposed to have any effect I think the zincplate MUST have physical contact to the housing!

 

Kim! :-)

 

Though a sink plate will help corrosion on a typical aluminum housing the problem with the sea&sea needs an entirely different solution. It's obvious to me that Sea&sea are not the smartest kid on the block simply put it would be easy for them to fix the problem (remove current from battery compartment door/outside), but instead they choose to limit their guaranties to use with sea&sea housings. That sort of customer care is the reason I'll stay clear of them in the future.

 

The fix for users of Nexus housings and others is easy enough. Exchange the tray inside the housing with a plastic one. I hope Nexus will offer this on their housings as it is clearly not a good idea (ever) to ground the camera to the housing. Adding a delrin screw to fasten the camera to the tray would work with some cameras, but some trays have a pin for stability that also is grounded - thus the need for a plastic tray.

 

Espen

[Paul Kay 51]

FYI Seacam use a zinc plate connected betwee the handles (resin) and housing body. They are in physical contact with the two stainless bolts which pass through the handles, zinc and finally into the housing body where the bolts secure via two 'helicoiled' threaded holes ('helicoils' are stainless steel threaded inserts used to prevent aluminium threaded holes wearing). As such they are effectively in direct contact with the housing itself. However additionally Seacam housing are Eloxil coated - a very hard surface treatment which helps prevent corrosion too - and should be oiled regularly to maintain their surface and deal with any surface damage or abrasions. Seacam take a belt and braces approach which I can vouch for as my own housings have been well used and they still look almost as new!

 

Electrolytic corrosion can be a real problem though especially if electric power passes through incompatible metals. The only answer is to change materials or to isolate components. I also always use and suggest using a locking compound (loctite or similar) on any bolts fitted to housings (of any type) and recommend that all cables are removed from both housing and flash when not in use or after diving. Whilst the problems discussed here show very aggressive electrolytic action, I have seen it before on many different housings and often as a result of flash connections being left connected (the record so far is 8 months - which required a lot of removing!).

[malodiver 0]

In a few weeks I will be putting the Seacam D2X ( with zinc Anode ) / Sea & Sea II converter N / Inon Z 240 dual strobes, to the test. We will be doing 50 to 60 dives each, over 15 days in Indonesia with 2 of these rigs. I plan on greasing threads, as well as spraying connections with Salt Away and rinsing with fresh water after each dive. Will watch everything like a hawk and switch back to manual @ the first sign of trouble. Look for a report on this thread during the week of March 19 on how well this combination worked and troubles noted.

Any other suggestions???

 

Guinea Pig

[shchae 3]

In a few weeks I will be putting the Seacam D2X ( with zinc Anode ) / Sea & Sea II converter N / Inon Z 240 dual strobes, to the test. We will be doing 50 to 60 dives each, over 15 days in Indonesia with 2 of these rigs. I plan on greasing threads, as well as spraying connections with Salt Away and rinsing with fresh water after each dive. Will watch everything like a hawk and switch back to manual @ the first sign of trouble. Look for a report on this thread during the week of March 19 on how well this combination worked and troubles noted.

Any other suggestions???

 

Guinea Pig

 

Hi,

Latest I found that I am going to have my converter back (new or re-built, I don'y know yet) & am going to do a test myself & post here. As you see previous post, issue is the base plate of housing & you may want to check your base plate & find a way to proeprly insulate from housing. I also, saw first post from 'industry'

(backscatter) that they are doing a test.(they were testing 'other' strobes vs. camera. not covering housings)

 

I think we will all know what to do in 2-3 weeks time.

 

Sam