New Sea&Sea TTL Converter Compatibility List

[BrantD 0]

O.K. I can answer some of your questions;

2.Based on my problem, here is what I suggest;

.

b.If you already have TTL converter with 'other'brand housing & strobes,

(1) Insulate Camera from Housing using plastic base and/or plastic screw & use with caution.

(2) Problem reported so far only with Inon Z-220/240 strobes. Use S&S strobes if possible.

 

I noticed all dealers are VERY quiet on ttl converter/YS110 issue & not making a single comment here....

 

Sam

 

Sam,

I thought the problem you were having (electrolysis) was based on your housing's mounts (as you have stated above in (1), not the strobes as stated above in (2).

Bottom line, I have watched this thread with great interest. I am getting a S&S D-200 housing, and have 2 Inon Z220 strobes. From the previous post, I didn't think I had anything to worry about. Now.......you've got me re thinking. Hopefully, I'm just misunderstanding. Should this system work for me?

[shchae 3]

Brant,

Above my comment is based on what I learned from them. I also, like to hear from somebodyelse how they are using it.

 

Sam

[pakman 0]

Sam,

I thought the problem you were having (electrolysis) was based on your housing's mounts (as you have stated above in (1), not the strobes as stated above in (2).

Bottom line, I have watched this thread with great interest. I am getting a S&S D-200 housing, and have 2 Inon Z220 strobes. From the previous post, I didn't think I had anything to worry about. Now.......you've got me re thinking. Hopefully, I'm just misunderstanding. Should this system work for me?

 

Brant, I think you should be safe as you're purchasing a S&S housing. So far, I haven't had any issues with using 2 Inon Z-240's w/ my S&S TTL Converter and S&S housing (350D)

[docrobina 0]

Anyone try the Converter with a D80 camera in S&S housing with IKE 125s yet???

 

Does it shoot TTL??

[seagrant 4]

Thanks for good words....

 

Here is comment on S&S chart;

 

"This product (TTL Converter) is compatible only with the above SEA&SEA Housings and Strobes. Use of other equipment void product warranty."

 

Hence, it is all your fault from now on....Just like that......

 

Sam

 

This "quote" from Sea and Sea was not anywhere in writing when I purchased the Sea and Sea TTL unit in Nov 06 and was nowhere in writing at DEMA in brochures, product literature, etc. The Sea and Sea person at DEMA booth verbally told me that he couldn't vouch for the unit working with "other" housings but the unit would work with "other" manuf strobes - the ones listed, just be careful to check the compatibility list and the best way to insure it is working is to use Sea and Sea strobes with the Sea and Sea TTL converter. I told him I had just gotten the Sea and Sea 110s and he said that is the most important thing to insure it all works right!

 

So I guess it is our "fault" for trusting what the Sea and Sea rep says at DEMA and for getting the correct strobes that Sea and Sea said were the best to work with the converter. Also ULCS made an adapter for the Sea and Sea TTL unit to be mounted on the Subal ND20 housing (it was avail at DEMA early Nov). ULCS usually doesn't just make things with no research or data as they are a very smart company - so there must have been some data that the Sea and Sea TTL unit would work with other housings.

 

What a fiasco this is turning out to be.

 

Thanks for the info Sam, might be time for me just to get a refund instead of trying it out again. This might be best.

 

Carol

[shchae 3]

Carol,

Above"quote" was added on 18 Jan when they post new compatibility chart to S&S home page.

 

Sam

[shchae 3]

Brant, I think you should be safe as you're purchasing a S&S housing. So far, I haven't had any issues with using 2 Inon Z-240's w/ my S&S TTL Converter and S&S housing (350D)

 

Pakman,

When I first posted picture of my damaged i-ttl converter, I also, posted picture of my friend's

e-ttl converter right next to it. It had no external damage as you see in the picture. It has been

used for less than 10 dives.

 

First thing my friend noticed was 'orange' light instead of 'green' and he start getting dark pictures.

When he was thinking it maybe a battery issue but, it went back to normal & battrty was O.K.

Next day, it was showing same problem in underwater.( I was not there when he dove)

 

Both converters, his & mine, are in S&S for review. My friend uses 2 x Z240.

 

My dealer strongly says he and S&S never heard of problem with e-ttl converter from other person

(they were aware of problem with i-TTL converter)& my friend MAY got a bad converter and/or too

sensitive on the issue.

 

I really hope it is limited to me & my friend but, please, monitor your system when you use with

'other' strobes.

 

Sam

[underwatercolours 0]

If I look at all S&S sites, They just mention the compatibility with S&S housings. Does anyone understand why? I know that some of you has succesfully tested the converter with other housings and it seems it works. Does it happen by chance or there are some pre-requisistes to be satisfied to use the S&S converter? Why doesn't S&S say anything on that? I think it could be an opportunity for them.

 

When I first tried the TTL converter it was brand new and I was told by S&S that it had not been tested with the Ikelite strobes and they could not confirm that they would or would not work. If it damaged the TTL converter, housing or strobes it could not be supported by S&S. This was a risk I was willing to take. So maybe I should clarify that just because it worked for me, doesn't mean its going to work for someone else, especially when introducing new variables. Makes sense to me that a company would work to support their own products first before investing $$$$ in their competitors products for the sake of supporting them. There are people like me who are too impatient to wait, so we do it ourselves, at our own risk, but are happy to share the results. Not much different than any other new product.

 

Digital TTL is here to stay.......Making UW imaging easier

 

Ditto on that! I never thought I'd see the day that I'd be shooting TTL!

 

Bonnie

[pakman 0]

Sam, out of curiousity, which housing and camera does your friend use? And did he buy his converter at the same time you did?

 

I've got approx 50 dives on my setup without any problems so far (knock on wood). I just did a thorough inspection of my TTL converter, battery compartment, housing, and everything looks cleaned. Did some test shots to ensure all is OK... Excluding the YS-110 compatibility issue, I'm suspecting that there must have been a bad batch of these TTL converters. Anyways, I see S&S is doing the usual corporate "cover your ass" routine with the late compatibility annoucements but I do hope they take care of you and the others who have been having problems.

 

FYI, I recall my TTL Converter (Canon Mk 1) came with a yellow notice saying the converters were only compatible with specific S&S strobes (mine was purchased from Japan and came with the warning in Japanese).

[shchae 3]

(Oh...shoot...I forgot to mention what housing he was using.)

 

Pakman,

It was S&S 5D housing that I bought for him & converter and housing was purchased when it was first available in Japan.

 

Sam

Edited January 22, 2007 by shchae

[pakman 0]

It was S&S 5D housing that I bought for him & converter and housing was purchased when it was first available in Japan.

 

 

Oh... that's not what I wanted to hear... Well keep us posted if your friend continues having problems with his TTL converter.

[erik 0]

Erik and all,

 

Ryan at ReefPhoto is exchanging the 3rd Sea and Sea TTL converter I've used now for a TTL 2 converter as we speak due to the recent alteration in the Sea and Sea compatibility list for my Sea and Sea 110s. (Again note Ryan's superior service!)

 

Hi Carol, thank you.

I think you are in the right direction using TTL CONVERTER II also for some wideangle shots. I'm still testing it and sometimes a have good shots (good exposures) with Nikkor 20 mm F 2.8. Using this lens for closer shots the TTL works fines (in next days i will test Nikkor 10.5 Fisheye). You can see some examples with 20 mm here my page. The most difficult is to arrive to have good results when subjects are a bit war away, the TTL could not read the light very well and make some big exposure errors, for this reasons i will be use it in manual mode but i will continue my tests.

It's a big pleasure to look at your new photos of Manatees, i love very much your web pages. Last summer i was making photos to a Dugong in Marsa Alam (Egypt) I found this animal so sweet and with a big personality. Looking to your pages my interest into Manatee is growing up and i would come in Florida in the good season for Manatee to use my new TTL CONVERTER II. :-)

It will be a good time to take a look to manatees and to see the defferences between these animals and the Dugong. Here some shot of Dughy the gently Dugond of Abu Dabab (Marsa Alam Egypt). For the moment this dive site is not protected and to much divers and snorkellers come to see Dughy and sometimes with no respect... i hope that very soon Adu Dabab become a little protected area, we must protect Dugons like you protect Manatees in Florida.

I hope your wideangle shots with TTL CONVERTER will be very good, i'm waiting for new good pictures of Manatees, shots Carol and publish your new pictures pls. :-)

 

PS: i'm waiting to test the new Ys-250 with TTL CONVERTER.... good luck! :-)

 

 

Using SEA&SEA TTL converter with no Sea&Sea Housing: i will be a good idea to make a little compatibility table to put on line...so maybe all people using converter with no Sea&Sea housing are invited to post and give us more informations. A good idea, i think, to help UW photographers.

 

Many thanks and sorry for my poor english

 

ERIK

www.erikhenchoz.com

[Berkley 0]

Howdy folks...

 

Jim Decker here at Backscatter has tested various combinations of Sea & Sea TTL Controllers, strobes, and housings over the last few months. Planned to post results on our site, but haven't completed testing. We received so many calls from this post, that I thought I should share our rough preliminary results. Skip below for the test results...

 

My 2 cents on digital TTL:

Personally, I'm not jonesing for TTL, but I'd welcome a good solution that auto-corrects for quick changes in strobe to subject distances. Unfortunately, digital TTL is not as easy as it sounds. Each camera has unique code and the strobe manufacturers are struggling to keep up even in the topside world.

 

We've tried the various in-housing TTL circuits with poor results on compatibility and reliability. The Sea & Sea controller has been the most field worthy system with our clients, but it suffers from the same issues we had with film TTL years ago.... fragile sync cord connector design.

 

All sync connector designs (Nikonos, Ikelite, Subtronic, Wetlink, EO, Nelson, ICS) are not robust enough for sloppy, low maintenance, marine use. I'm working on a new design, but welcome others to get involved. If you shot film TTL, then you know how difficult it is to keep 5-6 pins connected at low voltage.

 

If you're a new shooter looking to make one of these digital TTL systems work, treat your sync connections like an open wound. Keep it clean and dry.. let it breathe. Don't pop out a sync cord and slap on the caps and plugs as you'll just be sealing in the moisture. Carefully clean and install your sync cords in good light (with glasses if necessary). If you're not willing to do this level of maintenance, I'd recommend you stick to manual strobe technique as manual connection requires less maintenance...

 

>>>>>>>

 

Test notes:

The below tests were performed in our product photo booth, not underwater.

 

Sea & Sea TTL controller testing results--Strobes >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

Strobes must be in TTL mode.

Must turn controller on first.

Controller passes preflash signals to strobes.

Strobes working correctly emit multiple flashes (preflash).

All tests performed with Nikon camera bodies and N version Controllers.

 

Works with accurate exposures:

Sea & Sea YS-90

Sea & Sea YS-90dx

Sea & Sea YS-120

Sea & Sea YS-110 (controller version II only)

 

Fires multiple preflashes and main flash, but exposure is not correct:

Ikelite DS125

Ikelite DS200

Inon Z240

Inon D2000W/Wn

Sea and Sea YS-350

 

Fires only first preflash, but not remaining preflashes, will not fire the main flash:

Nikon SB-105

Ikelite DS-50

Ikelite SS-50

 

 

Sea and Sea TTL controller testing results—Cameras / Housings >>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

Each housing manufacturer has unique sync circuit wiring. New Sea & Sea housings with a "controller" labeled sync port are good to go. Older Sea & Sea housings need modification. All Subal and Aquatica housings need electronic modification to prevent a feedback loop... except the Nikon D200 housing which will work with full 5 pin sync ports.

 

Nikon D200: works with Sea & Sea, Subal, Aquatica 5 pin sync ports

 

Nikon D70: requires 5 pin sync port modified for ground isolation

 

D2X, D2Xs: does not work with or without isolation mod. Strobe does full dump, no preflashes.

 

D100, D50: no complete testing performed

 

Canon cameras: Minimal testing performed. Housings will need the special Sea and Sea 6 pin strobe bulkhead. Currently only available for the Sea and Sea housings. Comes stock in Sea and Sea 5D housing. Special modification available to add Sea & Sea 6-pin bulkhead to Subal, Aquatica, and older Sea & Sea housings.

 

>>>>>>>>

 

Cheers,

Berkley White

 

Backscatter

http://www.backscatter.com

831-645-1082

[pakman 0]

Interesting results... thanks for posting Berkley

[erik 0]

Howdy folks...

 

Jim Decker here at Backscatter has tested various combinations of Sea & Sea TTL Controllers, strobes, and housings over the last few months. Planned to post results on our site, but haven't completed testing. We received so many calls from this post, that I thought I should share our rough preliminary results. Skip below for the test results...

 

Very good, thank you Berkley. With your permmission i will translate it on my italian web site i found very interesting and a lot of italian UW photographers will be interestes to read it!

 

Many thanks

 

ERIK

www.erikhenchoz.com

[dhaas 32]

Berkley,

 

We've met, laughed, maybe even shared a beer way back when. So I have to say I'm surprised for you to say iTTL and eTTL2 isn't so much more advanced and that it works for tons of UW shooters.......I totally disagree on cords, too.

 

As I've posted many, many time the 30+ year old Nikonos V style TTL conector is a piece of junk. Adapted when film TTL needed 2 more pins to make it work in a teeny, tiny space. The Ikelite connector on all their housings and strobes has been 2000% more reliable.

 

I and dozens, no make that 100s, of users routinely connect, disconnect and cap off for snorkeling with dolphins, available light shooting, etc. with this style bulkhead and cords with practically zero problems.....So for you to state that housing connections fail routinely due to moisture, etc. I think is not very accurate....

 

Also, Ikelite's pioneering Nikon iTTL, Canon eTTL and eTTL2, Olympus TTL, which have all been around simply work with today's digital cameras. Unlike any other TTL system out there.

 

Are there limitations? Sure! Just like using a surface Nikon or Canon dedicated flash unit on TTL the user has to use some brain matter.....But it sure isn't rocket science and is much faster to let the camera and strobe communicate making minor exposure adjustments while the photographer concentrates on the viewfinder....

 

Most people who have cord problems IMHO haven't been shown the easy and correct way to assemble and protect them, and leave it all connected if it works right at the beginning of a trip. They fool around with it too much, disconnecting and re-connecting when it isn't necessary.....

 

Sorry for the rant, just expressing another opinion

 

Beer's on me next time we meet

 

dhaas

www.haasimages.com

 

[Poliwog 4]

Also, Ikelite's pioneering Nikon iTTL, Canon eTTL and eTTL2, Olympus TTL, which have all been around simply work with today's digital cameras. Unlike any other TTL system out there.

 

Sorry for the sour grapes but…

 

I wish Ikelite could have kept pioneering the iTTL and eTTL systems a little further and produced the long awaited i/eTTL sync cord for non-Ikelite housings.

 

While happy to shoot in manual flash mode, it would be nice to be able to have the choice to shoot iTTL or not.

 

Pity, there is really no viable iTTL solution on the market for Nikon’s top-of-the-line D2x(s). It would really “round out†an already incredible underwater photography system.

[dhaas 32]

Paul,

 

You are correct, and if such an iTTL cord could be made to work only with Ikelite stobes I think they'd manufacture it.......It simply has been easier (and smarter) to put the electronics into the housing.

 

Unfortunately the Nikon D2X is too big, both physically and market wise to make an expensive mold. Especially when the major volume of dSLR cameras keep (and will likely continue) getting smaller

 

dhaas

[malodiver 0]

I will add some additional findings on results of dry testing my system.

I have Seacam housing with 5 pin flash hot shoe. Seacam has its own iTTL strobe system, so the housing comes with one synch cable bulkhead compatable for iTTL. Unfortunatly their strobes are the price of a small car. I have the Nikon D2X and the newer Sea and Sea iTTL converter II. Testing with dual DX 90's was a bust. They full dumped every time, but timing was correct. Testing with DX Auto duals, worked perfect with 60 mm macro from f 8 to f 32, with dead center histogram on all shots. Explain that.

I now have Inon Z 240 to trial, but I cant figure out what settings to use for the strobe. Complicated directions. Any one have experience with settings on Z 240 for Sea & Sea i TTL converter?

I will then dry test and report back.

[erik 0]

Hi guys, thank you for helping me. I have just published a page with compatibility for the TTL CONVERT I and II. I will translate it in english soon as possible and i would like to to dawn this page every week so if you are using different kind of flash or housing send us your informations.

 

ERIK

www.erikhenchoz.com

[malodiver 0]

Follow up on Seacam / D2X / Sea and Sea ittl II converter/ with dual INON Z240's.

Dry testing with strobes ( settings for film TTL ) looks good. Perfect histograms, with 60mm macro, f8 to f32. Wet test in two weeks, if the whole system doesnt melt down from electrolosis.

Will keep updated.

Jack, St. Paul, Mn.

[craig nelson 4]

Hi all

 

i'm using DX200 with type I TTL converter and a pair of Z240

 

SPOT ON, no problems at all.

 

regards

 

craig

[seagrant 4]

Howdy folks...

 

Strobes must be in TTL mode.

Must turn controller on first.

Controller passes preflash signals to strobes.

Strobes working correctly emit multiple flashes (preflash).

All tests performed with Nikon camera bodies and N version Controllers.

 

>>>>>>>>

 

Cheers,

Berkley White

 

Backscatter

http://www.backscatter.com

831-645-1082

 

Berkley,

 

Thanks. But one conundrum here. Sea and Sea 110 strobes as you know can only be put on TTL by turning on and past manual 1 and 2 first.....

 

So controller on first, this I do, but Strobes in TTL before that, can't do on S & S 110s.

 

So is it correct sequence for Sea and Sea 110s?

 

1. Turn Sea and Sea Type II controller on

2. Turn 110 strobes on and all the way to TTL?

 

My "new" (4th one tried) Sea and Sea TTL converter II seems to be working now with Subal ND20/S & S 110s/Nikon d200, I'll try it out on macro u/w in a week or so. Wide angle was so-so, but changing ambient light with manatee is a little too much to ask for any TTL system I think. Still it wasn't horrid - but yesterday I quit testing out the unit and used the manual bypass - thank goodness for manual bypass!!

 

 

Hi Carol, thank you.

..............The most difficult is to arrive to have good results when subjects are a bit war away, the TTL could not read the light very well and make some big exposure errors, for this reasons i will be use it in manual mode but i will continue my tests.

It's a big pleasure to look at your new photos of Manatees, i love very much your web pages. Last summer i was making photos to a Dugong in Marsa Alam (Egypt) I found this animal so sweet and with a big personality. Looking to your pages my interest into Manatee is growing up and i would come in Florida in the good season for Manatee to use my new TTL CONVERTER II. :-)

It will be a good time to take a look to manatees and to see the defferences between these animals and the Dugong. Here some shot of Dughy the gently Dugond of Abu Dabab (Marsa Alam Egypt). For the moment this dive site is not protected and to much divers and snorkellers come to see Dughy and sometimes with no respect... i hope that very soon Adu Dabab become a little protected area, we must protect Dugons like you protect Manatees in Florida.

I hope your wideangle shots with TTL CONVERTER will be very good, i'm waiting for new good pictures of Manatees, shots Carol and publish your new pictures pls. :-)

 

PS: i'm waiting to test the new Ys-250 with TTL CONVERTER.... good luck! :-)

Using SEA&SEA TTL converter with no Sea&Sea Housing: i will be a good idea to make a little compatibility table to put on line...so maybe all people using converter with no Sea&Sea housing are invited to post and give us more informations. A good idea, i think, to help UW photographers.

 

Many thanks and sorry for my poor english

 

ERIK

www.erikhenchoz.com

 

And Erik,

 

Yes thanks, new TTL II seems to be working now, but manual is better for drastic changing light w/manatee.

 

I'll write up a whole thing soon on the manatee here again and the challenges facing them and seeing them in Florida. I think it is still important people get to see them and interact up-close on a limited basis per protocal but Fish and Wildlife will be imposing new and stricter regulations to limit too many people at a time wanting to see manatee. In the meantime as I always tell people the responsible way to go see manatee is go during the week during slower times and never, ever on weekends or holidays.

 

At the proper times it is magical and the manatee really seem to take interest in the experience. Manatee are actually naturally curious. I observed young ones playing "bump" in the current that flows out in a particular channel yesterday. It is a real "game" but also must be an "exercise" for flipper and swimming dexterity and maneuverability. They would swim up into current, play-around back and forth and then all of a (obviously on-purpose...) suddenly stop swimming and get swept back and "bump" into each other - and sometimes "accidently" bump sleeping adult manatee (and even me at times.....). B)

 

There is a new manatee book out now by a person who worked with and pioneered manatee research for 25 years, mostly at Crystal River, FL, just north of where I live. It is not a manatee picture book but should be read by all who are interested. It has data never listed before on manatee eyesight, lifestyle, etc etc etc from someone who knows!!! It is at Amazon here and is an amazing book. I'll re-post in an appropriate thread also, sorry to get off-topic but I do love sirenians so!!!

http://www.amazon.com/Florida-Manatee-Biol...n/dp/081302949X

 

I'll keep posted on how the Sea & Sea TTL II unit keeps working with 110 strobes.

 

Thanks, Carol

[erik 0]

Many thanks for flash informations, i will update my little compatibility list on my web site.

And thank you Carol for informations about manatees, i will buy the book :-), really interesting!

Let me know issues with your new converter.

[nathanm 0]

I am about to get a housing for Canon 5D - not sure which one yet, but probably Aquatica. The Sea & Sea TTL converter has been recommended to me. Does anybody know if it works with Aquatica housings? Does it work with flash units other than Sea & Sea ?