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New Sea&Sea TTL Converter Compatibility List

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I am about to get a housing for Canon 5D - not sure which one yet, but probably Aquatica. The Sea & Sea TTL converter has been recommended to me. Does anybody know if it works with Aquatica housings? Does it work with flash units other than Sea & Sea ?

 

Hi Nathanm. How you can read in this discussion some photographer have problems to use ttl with different housings (not Sea&Sea), the problem is that the TTL CONVERTER by Sea&Sea is disigned with a positive ground. This could be a problem with housings with a negative ground.

This is now sure because Sea&Sea published this informations on line, is very inportant for all divers that are using or will be using TTL CONVERTER with differents housing from Sea&Sea.

 

http://www.seaandsea.jp/press/cinfo1170065430.html

 

So i would ask before to my delear (housing) and in case i would contact Sea&Sea for more details.

I hope it will be helpfull for you.

 

Good dives anf good photos with your new 5D

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Hi all

 

i'm using DX200 with type I TTL converter and a pair of Z240

 

SPOT ON, no problems at all.

 

regards

 

craig

 

Craig, what mode is your z240 on? I've tried the D200 with the type I TTL converter with a pair of Z240. I haven't been able to get consistent results. I don't even get pre-flashes from the Z240.

 

Can you tell me how you got it to work? I'm tempted to try the type II TTL converter to see if it makes a differrence...

 

Thanks

 

Jeremy

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Has anyone tried a pair of Z240 with the type II nikon converter? Will that work?

 

I haven't had any luck with the type I converter that I borrowed from a friend... Will changing to a type II converter help?

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Does the Sea & Sea use the HW converter board internally? Another thread on Wetpixel says it does. If so, then the HW compatibility chart could be used

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Hi,

I am in Anilao,Philippines with a friend who has S&S 5D housing + 2xZ240 + E-TTL converter & used it for 10 dives & it is working fine without any problem. Pre-flash also, work well.

 

This E-TTL converter was the one I sent to S&S together with my'melting' i-ttl converter (still in S&S...) & came back with a tag saying

'Unit tested & O.K.'.

 

I think there is no other problem reported so far & it is O.K. to use Z-240 with e-ttl/i-ttl cnvtr with S&S housing.

 

Sam

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Hi,

I am in Anilao,Philippines with a friend who has S&S 5D housing + 2xZ240 + E-TTL converter & used it for 10 dives & it is working fine without any problem. Pre-flash also, work well.

 

This E-TTL converter was the one I sent to S&S together with my'melting' i-ttl converter (still in S&S...) & came back with a tag saying

'Unit tested & O.K.'.

 

I think there is no other problem reported so far & it is O.K. to use Z-240 with e-ttl/i-ttl cnvtr with S&S housing.

 

Sam

 

how accuracy is the TTL converter? Do i have to turn the converter on first and then the strobe?

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how accuracy is the TTL converter? Do i have to turn the converter on first and then the strobe?

 

I think S&S suggests you turn the converter on first. There's no problem turning on the strobe first, but when you then turn on the converter, it will set the strobes off.

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I've got a question somewhat related to this topic but didn't think it warrants a separate thread.

 

What does it mean when the status display light on the S&S TTL converter is amber? Sorry, can't seem to find my manual. My TTL Converter apparently crapped out after a couple days in Palau. The light doesn't change back to green. Someone had a battery tester onboard and the battery appeared to be OK. Sync cord connections look OK. No big loss, as I was shooting mostly wide angle in manual but did miss it for the macro dives. (on the other hand, it did teach me to shoot macro on manual... :)) Will try to do some dry testing now that I'm back from the trip.

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Pls disregard the post above. It appears it was indeed a dead battery. Just installed a new one and got a green light... dooh!

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Hi,

I am in Anilao,Philippines with a friend who has S&S 5D housing + 2xZ240 + E-TTL converter & used it for 10 dives & it is working fine without any problem. Pre-flash also, work well.

 

This E-TTL converter was the one I sent to S&S together with my'melting' i-ttl converter (still in S&S...) & came back with a tag saying

'Unit tested & O.K.'.

 

I think there is no other problem reported so far & it is O.K. to use Z-240 with e-ttl/i-ttl cnvtr with S&S housing.

 

Sam

 

I was just wondering, what kind of settings to you have the strobes on I have the Z240 too...

Do you put the strobe on STTL? Low? Auto?

Or does it automatically go into TTL mode when I have it connected to the converter?

 

Thanks!

Edited by moliu

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you put the Z-240's power dial to TTL, set the exposure dial to "TTL" (9 oclock position) and make sure the magnet button is pushed in.

Edited by pakman

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you put the Z-240's power dial to TTL, set the exposure dial to "TTL" (9 oclock position) and make sure the magnet button is pushed in.

 

The power dial only seems to have OFF, STTL, LOW, AUTO, M, FULL...

Do you mean STTL?

 

Thanks heaps!!!

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Woops, yes I meant STTL (had to pull out my Z-240 to confirm that...). But the exposure dial (ev controller) is set at "TTL" or 9 o'clock position.

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Woops, yes I meant STTL (had to pull out my Z-240 to confirm that...). But the exposure dial (ev controller) is set at "TTL" or 9 o'clock position.

 

Thanks a lot!!! I'll have to borrow my friend's converter II to test this out!!!

I'm looking forward to TTL underwater!!!

 

Thanks!

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wow, lots of good info on this thread. thanks everyone for posting.

 

now I have a question. I have 2 YS-90DX strobes. On friday I'll be getting a nikon D80, Sea & sea housing and their TTL converter. I'll let everyone know how it works.

 

my question -

 

I was thinking of getting one more strobe, maybe a YS-110 or INON Z240, so then i'll have one strobe as a backup. Does anyone know for sure if the TTL will or wont work correctly if I use mixed strobes ?

 

thanks,

Scott

Edited by sgietler

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Thanks a lot!!! I'll have to borrow my friend's converter II to test this out!!!

I'm looking forward to TTL underwater!!!

 

Thanks!

 

Just one word of caution. I believe the Sea and Sea TTL Converter cable that connects to the housing is a 6pin cable (or at least it is for the Canon converter). Some of the Sea & Sea housing may have both a 6pin and a 5pin one. If not, the housing needs to be sent in to be converted from 5pin to 6pin.

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any comments on the sea and sea ttl converter vs the heinrichs converter

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Howdy folks...

 

Jim Decker here at Backscatter has tested various combinations of Sea & Sea TTL Controllers, strobes, and housings over the last few months. Planned to post results on our site, but haven't completed testing. We received so many calls from this post, that I thought I should share our rough preliminary results. Skip below for the test results...

 

My 2 cents on digital TTL:

Personally, I'm not jonesing for TTL, but I'd welcome a good solution that auto-corrects for quick changes in strobe to subject distances. Unfortunately, digital TTL is not as easy as it sounds. Each camera has unique code and the strobe manufacturers are struggling to keep up even in the topside world.

 

We've tried the various in-housing TTL circuits with poor results on compatibility and reliability. The Sea & Sea controller has been the most field worthy system with our clients, but it suffers from the same issues we had with film TTL years ago.... fragile sync cord connector design.

 

All sync connector designs (Nikonos, Ikelite, Subtronic, Wetlink, EO, Nelson, ICS) are not robust enough for sloppy, low maintenance, marine use. I'm working on a new design, but welcome others to get involved. If you shot film TTL, then you know how difficult it is to keep 5-6 pins connected at low voltage.

 

If you're a new shooter looking to make one of these digital TTL systems work, treat your sync connections like an open wound. Keep it clean and dry.. let it breathe. Don't pop out a sync cord and slap on the caps and plugs as you'll just be sealing in the moisture. Carefully clean and install your sync cords in good light (with glasses if necessary). If you're not willing to do this level of maintenance, I'd recommend you stick to manual strobe technique as manual connection requires less maintenance...

 

>>>>>>>

 

Test notes:

The below tests were performed in our product photo booth, not underwater.

 

Sea & Sea TTL controller testing results--Strobes >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

Strobes must be in TTL mode.

Must turn controller on first.

Controller passes preflash signals to strobes.

Strobes working correctly emit multiple flashes (preflash).

All tests performed with Nikon camera bodies and N version Controllers.

 

Works with accurate exposures:

Sea & Sea YS-90

Sea & Sea YS-90dx

Sea & Sea YS-120

Sea & Sea YS-110 (controller version II only)

 

Fires multiple preflashes and main flash, but exposure is not correct:

Ikelite DS125

Ikelite DS200

Inon Z240

Inon D2000W/Wn

Sea and Sea YS-350

 

Fires only first preflash, but not remaining preflashes, will not fire the main flash:

Nikon SB-105

Ikelite DS-50

Ikelite SS-50

Sea and Sea TTL controller testing results—Cameras / Housings >>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

Each housing manufacturer has unique sync circuit wiring. New Sea & Sea housings with a "controller" labeled sync port are good to go. Older Sea & Sea housings need modification. All Subal and Aquatica housings need electronic modification to prevent a feedback loop... except the Nikon D200 housing which will work with full 5 pin sync ports.

 

Nikon D200: works with Sea & Sea, Subal, Aquatica 5 pin sync ports

 

Nikon D70: requires 5 pin sync port modified for ground isolation

 

D2X, D2Xs: does not work with or without isolation mod. Strobe does full dump, no preflashes.

 

D100, D50: no complete testing performed

 

Canon cameras: Minimal testing performed. Housings will need the special Sea and Sea 6 pin strobe bulkhead. Currently only available for the Sea and Sea housings. Comes stock in Sea and Sea 5D housing. Special modification available to add Sea & Sea 6-pin bulkhead to Subal, Aquatica, and older Sea & Sea housings.

 

>>>>>>>>

 

Cheers,

Berkley White

 

Backscatter

http://www.backscatter.com

831-645-1082

 

 

Hi Berkley, thanks so much for your information.

 

Did you already get the Aquatica's D80 housing?

If yes, did you tested the housing with the S&S Converter?

 

Regards

 

Augusto Valente

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Hi Augusto,

 

Jim here at Backscatter. I have not tested the D80 Aquatica yet, but I do have a housing on order from Aquatica and will test the controller when it gets here.

 

To open a whole new can of worms, I'll be testing the new Ikelite converter for Nikon when it comes in with various housing conbinations and I'll post my results.

 

Jim

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Hi jim could you clarify using the sea and sea converter with the aquatica/ d2x/ inon240 combination. thanks

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I would imagine this would work, but...

 

Fuji S5 with the Sea&Sea TTL Converter.

 

the S5 uses iTTL, so it should work, but has anybody tried it?

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Hi jim could you clarify using the sea and sea converter with the aquatica/ d2x/ inon240 combination. thanks

 

 

I had tested the D2X previously with the original converter and the D2X would do a full dump with no preflsahes, no TTL. I just tested D2X with the converter II and had the same results. Strobe used was a YS-90DX.

 

In testing the Inon strobes with the Sea and Sea converter and D200, I was getting preflashes and

the compensation dial was stepping the exposure up and down accordingly, but the exposure was overexposed when the converter was set to zero. This test was conducted in our photo booth where we do our product shots for the website. (The boss won't let me go out and dive all day! :guiness: )The Z240 in identical controlled conditions as the YS-90 had a brighter exposure than the YS-90. I know others have posted on this site that they are getting good results with the Z240 and the Sea and Sea TTL converter, but I want to share my results when comparing 2 different strobes in identical shooting conditions.

 

I've been shooting with a D200 with YS-90 strobes and the converter in both Sea and Sea and Subal housings with the 105VR for macro and the TTL has been spot on. However, I still prefer manual for wide angle.

 

Hope this helps sort out the TTL confusion. :D

 

Jim

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I ask because this setup was recomended to me, and is in the prossess of dbeing done. Now I'm very worried i made a mistake :D

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Sea&Sea web site now present a new compatibility list for TTL CONVERTER I and II. Very important informations about compatibility between flash and converters ttl. The new Ys 110 don't work with TTL CONVERTER I.

You can see my tests from here. I still testing the TTL CONVERTER II with DX-D200 and D200.

Sorry, for the moment the web page is only in italian. Thank you to Fracosub (italian Sea&Sea delear) for helping me in tests with differents flashs and converters. I hope tests could help other Sea&Sea owners.

 

Link to compatibility list by Sea&Sea

http://www.seaandsea.jp/products/accessory/ttl.html

Erik

www.erikhenchoz.com

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I use the Sea & sea TTL Converter II in macro mode with a Sea & Sea D200 housing, and two YS 90 Duo strobes (the second is not attached to the controller, but works in slave or manual mode). I figured out that if the strobe setting on the D200 is in "rear curtain" mode, the converter does not work in TTL, but as if it was in manual mode. As soon as I am in another mode that the rear curtain, it works perfectly in TTL. Anybody had this problem ??? and anybody knows why ?

 

Thanks !

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