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New Sea&Sea TTL Converter Compatibility List

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Hi Augusto,

 

Jim here at Backscatter. I have not tested the D80 Aquatica yet, but I do have a housing on order from Aquatica and will test the controller when it gets here.

 

To open a whole new can of worms, I'll be testing the new Ikelite converter for Nikon when it comes in with various housing conbinations and I'll post my results.

 

Jim

 

 

Hi Jim, thanks. I'll be waiting. ;-)

 

In June I'll probably be on California and I hope to take this chance to know the Backscatter's store.

 

regards

 

Augusto Valente

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No Aquatica housing in its stock wiring configuration will work w/ the Sea & Sea TTL Converter. [EDIT]Unless otherwise requested{/EDIT]Aquatica is wiring housings for manual strobes only, w/ only Trigger & Ground connected. The TTL Converter requires all five conductors to be active between the camera and the converter. Housings can be retrofitted with properly wired Nikonos connectors, though.

 

Subal does this out of the box, as do most European companies. Nexus does via NCC camera connector, NOT the popular NCC-V2.

 

If a converter is attached to an Aquatica housing in its stock wiring configuration, any strobe attached will unload a full dump.

 

I do not judge a strobes accuracy w/ the converter by seeing how well it exposes out of the box. Correct exposure is subjective, and no two cameras that I own expose exactly the same way. I had f100 film cameras that were more than 1 stop hot, and had to be tested before trips and dialed back to give the exposure I wanted. Once adjusted they were very consistent from stopped down to wide open.

 

The Inon strobes behave similarly w/ this converter They are hot out of the box (sometimes by more than 1 stop), but once pulled back w/ the camera's flash exposure compensation control they yield very consistent exposures over a significantly broader aperture range than the "old" Sea & Sea strobes do, and slightly broader than the "new" YS-110 strobe.

 

The Ikelite converter is absolutely stellar w/ the d200 and d80 cameras. I have done 100 shot intervals with it, and the consistency across the entire range is impressive. The d2x isn't as consistent, but that may be fixed with a software update.

 

I hope to build a library article w/ examples from all of these different converters in the near future. I've explained it hundreds of times on the phone now...

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No Aquatica housing in its stock wiring configuration will work w/ the Sea & Sea TTL Converter. Aquatica is wiring housings for manual strobes only, w/ only Trigger & Ground connected. The TTL Converter requires all five conductors to be active between the camera and the converter. Housings can be retrofitted with properly wired Nikonos connectors, though.

 

Subal does this out of the box, as do most European companies. Nexus does via NCC camera connector, NOT the popular NCC-V2.

 

If a converter is attached to an Aquatica housing in its stock wiring configuration, any strobe attached will unload a full dump.

 

I do not judge a strobes accuracy w/ the converter by seeing how well it exposes out of the box. Correct exposure is subjective, and no two cameras that I own expose exactly the same way. I had f100 film cameras that were more than 1 stop hot, and had to be tested before trips and dialed back to give the exposure I wanted. Once adjusted they were very consistent from stopped down to wide open.

 

The Inon strobes behave similarly w/ this converter They are hot out of the box (sometimes by more than 1 stop), but once pulled back w/ the camera's flash exposure compensation control they yield very consistent exposures over a significantly broader aperture range than the "old" Sea & Sea strobes do, and slightly broader than the "new" YS-110 strobe.

 

The Ikelite converter is absolutely stellar w/ the d200 and d80 cameras. I have done 100 shot intervals with it, and the consistency across the entire range is impressive. The d2x isn't as consistent, but that may be fixed with a software update.

 

I hope to build a library article w/ examples from all of these different converters in the near future. I've explained it hundreds of times on the phone now...

 

Hi Ryan, how are you doing?

 

You can ask Aquatica to connect the five conductors, they are doing it if you ask.

 

 

Regards

 

Augusto Valente

www.pbase.com/valente_brasil

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It is common knowledge to all of the Aquatica dealers that they can order the bulkhead configuration as per the customer requirement, we routinely ship our housing (which come with standard double bulkhead BTW) in 5 pins or 2 pins configuration even original Ikelite bulkhead are available and if the customer so require we can install his/her supplied bulkhead configuration also.

 

Ryan, I would say that quoting us as "Aquatica is wiring housings for manual strobes only" is misleading, if anything we are flexible and attentive to the customer specific needs.

 

Also please note that in collaboration with Ikelite an agreement now allows us to use their bulkhead so that the customer can now use the same sync cable with or with out the TTL adapter. Working together is so much better for the consumer !

 

Regards.

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Quoting myself:

 

No Aquatica housing in its stock wiring configuration will work w/ the Sea & Sea TTL Converter.

 

I thought stock implied other variations were available. My motivation for posting the information was to save some phone calls, not "mislead" your customers.

 

I'm glad to see Aquatica offering a superior flash connector.

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I had tested the D2X previously with the original converter and the D2X would do a full dump with no preflsahes, no TTL. I just tested D2X with the converter II and had the same results. Strobe used was a YS-90DX.

 

In testing the Inon strobes with the Sea and Sea converter and D200, I was getting preflashes and

the compensation dial was stepping the exposure up and down accordingly, but the exposure was overexposed when the converter was set to zero. This test was conducted in our photo booth where we do our product shots for the website. (The boss won't let me go out and dive all day! :) )The Z240 in identical controlled conditions as the YS-90 had a brighter exposure than the YS-90. I know others have posted on this site that they are getting good results with the Z240 and the Sea and Sea TTL converter, but I want to share my results when comparing 2 different strobes in identical shooting conditions.

 

I've been shooting with a D200 with YS-90 strobes and the converter in both Sea and Sea and Subal housings with the 105VR for macro and the TTL has been spot on. However, I still prefer manual for wide angle.

 

Hope this helps sort out the TTL confusion. ;)

 

Jim

 

I already have two Z240. I'm wondering if I should be getting the converter II. If the Z240 is consistently overexposing, i should be able to compensate with the dials right? So you think it's worth getting the converter?

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What housing and camera do you have? I have not tested TTL converter II with Z240, but it should be the same. I'll try testing it with compensation to see if I can get it into an acceptable range.

 

As far as whether I think it is worth getting the converter is something I can't answer for you personally. I have used it and I like it alot while doing macro. I prefer manual for wide angle.

 

I'll get back to you after the test.

 

Jim

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Hi guys, returned now from Ningaloo (Western Australia) and tested TTL CONVERTER II with Ys-90 Auto and also YS-110. It's wotk great, lovely for macro and also wide angle shots. I saw also that Sea&Sea changed the compatibility list on web site and new informations are availables.

 

Here the link to my pictures taked with the converter and a D200 plus Ys-90 Auto

 

Here pictures from Perth (in the South) always this Nikon D200, TTL CONVERTER II and Ys-100

 

I like the new CONVERTER i would like now to test more thit a 10,5 mm fish eye and optical dome port.

 

Bye

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any comments on the sea and sea ttl converter vs the heinrichs converter

 

Well, it's exacly the same, as I had the confirmation by Christian Weikamp that it's their circuitry which is in the Sea TTL Converter. By the way, I had the confirmation that, I suppose for some technical reasons, if the curtain is in "rear" mode, the converter does not work in i-ttl.

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Well, it's exacly the same, as I had the confirmation by Christian Weikamp that it's their circuitry which is in the Sea TTL Converter. By the way, I had the confirmation that, I suppose for some technical reasons, if the curtain is in "rear" mode, the converter does not work in i-ttl.

If it is the same at Matthias's converter why doesn't it seem to work with the same strobes that Matthias and Christian claim?

BVA

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does anyone know if the sea and sea ttl converter works with inon z-240 and which one,i am trying to get some info on this but noone seems to know,

many thanks in advance

regards

Jez

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does anyone know if the sea and sea ttl converter works with inon z-240 and which one,i am trying to get some info on this but noone seems to know,

many thanks in advance

regards

Jez

 

 

which camera are you using?

 

I can confirm a Canon 400D (XTi), S&S Canon TTL Converter, S&S Housing, and 2x Z-240's work very well.

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does anyone know if the sea and sea ttl converter works with inon z-240 and which one,i am trying to get some info on this but noone seems to know,

many thanks in advance

regards

Jez

 

I have: Subal, D-200, Inon 240's and S & S converter. Works in W/A and macro!

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