Is your dSLR setup neutrally buoyant?

[sgietler 1]

hello everyone

 

I'm considering switching from my ultra-lightweight P&S setup, that i'm used to operating with one hand, to a dSLR setup.

 

Is your dSLR setup neutrally buoyant underwater? If so please tell me your setup (camera, housing, tray/arms, make/model of strobes). if you can shoot with one hand, please let me know that also. (not sure if that is possible with a dSLR setup, lol).

 

if not, what is making it negative? is it the housing, or the strobes, etc. how negative is it?

 

I'm looking into maybe getting a Nikon, possible an Ike housing (but might change that after reading this thread), not sure on the tray/arms, and a ike/inon strobe(s), not sure of the size.

 

i'm posting this so I can see if its possible for me to put together a setup that is neutral or almost neutral underwater...

 

thanks alot,

Scott

[Arnon_Ayal 1]

My setup is very close to be natural:

D70, Ike housing, 2XSB-105 and UL arms, with a very little help its can be done totally natural, UL floating arms for instance.

I can use it with one hand even now, not for long time but possible if needed.

There are few threads here and in the DIY forum about this issue with some nice ideas.

[fdog 3]

Nope. The housing I would guestimate at 1.5 lbs negative, add 2 strobes and the works is maybe 3 lbs negative.

 

I like it that way. Things parked on the bottom stay there. It seems more solid to me at slow shutter speeds.

 

All the best, James

 

Edit: It's been a long time since I owned and used Ike housings, but I remember this chunk of lead that was in the tray. I've always equated the Ike housings as "more neutral".

[jlyle 8]

My rig is very close to being neutral in the water - one handed operation is a snap.

 

Olympus E-330 in an Ikelite housing with Ike tray & handles - ULCS arms & dual Ikelite DS-125 strobes.

[uw_nikon 0]

I have an D200 Aquatica housing. It's about two pounds negative underwater with the flat macro port and 12-12 ULCS arms with Ike SS-200 strobe pair. (heavy at the macro port) With the 8" dome port, it's a little less than a pound negative with the same arms and strobes. (the dome wants to float up).

 

Weight of the water that the camera system displaces

minus

Weight of camera system dry

equals

Buoyancy

 

It's really a matter of making the system slightly negative underwater and balancing it (so the system doesn't change postion when you let go of it; i.e., rotates port up for dome and port down for macro).

 

James documented making a floation ring to balance the macro port.

 

To balance a floaty dome port, you can add a small weight to the bottom of the port's hood.

 

Take Care,

ChrisS

 

Is your dSLR setup neutrally buoyant underwater? If so please tell me your setup (camera, housing, tray/arms, make/model of strobes). if you can shoot with one hand, please let me know that also. (not sure if that is possible with a dSLR setup, lol).

 

if not, what is making it negative? is it the housing, or the strobes, etc. how negative is it?

 

I'm looking into maybe getting a Nikon, possible an Ike housing (but might change that after reading this thread), not sure on the tray/arms, and a ike/inon strobe(s), not sure of the size.

[Alex_Mustard 0]

I have a pair of very heavy subtronic strobes that make my subal system heavy. When my strobes were broken earlier in the year, as they often are, I used a pair of sea and sea strobes and my system was actually slightly positive.

 

I have to say I like the heavy housing, which I find very stable, ideal for long exposures that I use frequently in my photography.

 

Alex

[herbko 0]

I think we've had a similar thread awhile back and found that some prefer heavy and some prefer neutral. I find my Aquatica 5D macro setup too heavy and plan to try adding flotation similar to James' setup.

 

It's very simple to add weight and a pain to increase buoyancy. If you're in the process of buying parts for a system and are not sure what you prefer. I think it's best to try to make it as buoyant as possible.

[sgietler 1]

thanks for the replies. I would definetely prefer buoyant or only slightly negative. At least now I know it should be fairly easy to put together if a dSLR system that is almost neutral, if I were to go that route.

 

Scott

[james 0]

My wife used to have an Ikelite 20D housing w/ DS125 strobes. With 2 8" ultralight buoyancy arms the setup was perfectly neutral. With two more arm pieces and the 8" dome it was slightly buoyant.

 

Cheers

James

[drsteve 6]

I think we've had a similar thread awhile back and found that some prefer heavy and some prefer neutral. I find my Aquatica 5D macro setup too heavy and plan to try adding flotation similar to James' setup.

I found my Aquatica 5D with Inon strobes was as heavy as a brick. Worse, it was very unbalanced and tended to want to point straight down. I followed a friend's lead and added a series of floats made from capped PVC tubing to the strobe arms. They aren't beautiful, but have made a huge improvement in the weight and balance of the rig. I strongly recommend them. My wrists are much happier now.

[RickM 0]

My D200/Subal setup is definitly on the negative side, but the balance is very good so it's easy to shoot one handed if the need arises. I never really thought about it until reading several of the threads here!

 

Rick

[jarhed 0]

My Sea & Sea D200 setup is almost neutral with the 9" dome, but with the 60mm or worse, the 105mm setup the system is very negative. The tradeoff that I don't mind is that Sea & Sea makes a very compact housing and it all (except the 9" dome) fits into a carry on backback. Just a point to consider, positive bouyancy is a function of volume.

 

I don't mind the negative bouyancy, creates a more stable system, but I do have tired armes after a day of multiple dives....

 

Take care,

John

[sgietler 1]

wow, that's three negatives in a row. I wonder what is making the setup negative, when other people's setup is positive. the housing? lens? tray/arms?

 

Rick, Jarhed - what type of tray, arms, and strobe are you using? I've read the ultralight arms/tray are more buoyant, and I know some strobes are more buoyant that others....

[cor 0]

I have a pair of very heavy subtronic strobes that make my subal system heavy. When my strobes were broken earlier in the year, as they often are, I used a pair of sea and sea strobes and my system was actually slightly positive.

How did you manage that? Was that with your D2x? I have a D2x, subal and sea&sea, and I would not describe that as positive Maybe you had some type of buoyancy arms?

 

Cor

[pakman 0]

wow, that's three negatives in a row. I wonder what is making the setup negative, when other people's setup is positive. the housing? lens? tray/arms?

 

a combination of the above... I have a very compact S&S 350D housing, 4x 8" arms, & 2 Inon strobes. Each of these are negative u/w. Great for traveling as it packs well, but u/w it's on the negative side and can get tiring after a 3-4 dive day. I've played with various pool noodles and foam on the arms, but in the end will likely end up buying those new Stix buoyancy arms.

[jarhed 0]

Rick, Jarhed - what type of tray, arms, and strobe are you using? I've read the ultralight arms/tray are more buoyant, and I know some strobes are more buoyant that others....

 

I use standard ULCS arms and Sea & Sea YS-90 strobes. The biggest factor regarding the negative bouyancy of my rig is the small size of the Sea and Sea housing for the D200.

It is simply a more compact housing than most others on the market. This was a big selling point for me since I am much too parinoid to check my camera gear...

 

Other housings are bulkier and thus displace more water, making them more bouyant.

 

Take care,

John

[RickM 0]

I use standard ULCS arms and Sea & Sea YS-90 strobes.

 

 

Mirrors my setup completely. 2 Sea&Sea YS-90's and Ultralite arms with no tray. Subal has 2 mounting locations on the housing body.

 

Rick

[shchae 3]

An example of neutral S&S 5D setup.

 

Sam

[reefwalker 2]

My rig is only very slightly negative.

Its an Oly E330 with 10Bar (Fantasea) housing, 2 x Inon Z220 strobes with Locline Arms.

I use some home-made 10mm wetsuit 'wraps' around the strobes to aid in buoyancy, without these the strobes are definately negative. They also serve to protect the strobes from being knocked around at shore entries.

[Alex_Mustard 0]

An example of neutral S&S 5D setup.

 

What happens if you want to shoot a vertical?!

 

Alex

[hoovermd 0]

Is your dSLR setup neutrally buoyant underwater? If so please tell me your setup (camera, housing, tray/arms, make/model of strobes). if you can shoot with one hand, please let me know that also. (not sure if that is possible with a dSLR setup, lol).

 

if not, what is making it negative? is it the housing, or the strobes, etc. how negative is it?

 

In the case of my 14mm (1.2 pounds) and dome port the unit is slightly negative but the balance isn't optimal since the dome wants to be "on top". this is a function of the compact housing (UK-Germany) and a fairly heave camera (Canon 5D)

 

I also travel with an 85mm Canon lens which is 2.3 pounds and when I put that inthe housing it is much less likely to tip.

 

The same camera and housing with the ring flash is nicely balanced and very slightly negative.

 

Most of the folks I meet are in the "slightly negative" camp. I've tried to offset some of the negativeness of my heavier setup and did notice the difference.

[shchae 3]

Alex,

I am using it on my Nexus setup & did not have any problem to shoot in vertical. Another way to put this BC is put 2 BCs to each arm.

 

Sam