Underwater Cave Photography

[breals 0]

I'm going to Akumal for some much needed cave diving and I plan on shooting still photographs with my Ikelite house 20D and dual DS125 strobes. I LOVE the look of these photos, http://web.mac.com/georgitsis/iWeb/Site/Caves.html, and I'm hoping to capture my own.

 

Does anyone have an tips or guidelines to shooting still photographs in the cave environment? Or does some have a link to specific resources that I could take a look at?

 

Thanks,

 

Bill

Edited June 26, 2007 by breals

[tjgreen 0]

I'm going to Akumal for some much needed cave diving and I plan on shooting still photographs with my Ikelite house 20D and dual DS125 strobes. I LOVE the look of these photos, http://web.mac.com/georgitsis/iWeb/Site/Caves.html, and I'm hoping to capture my own.

 

Does anyone have an tips or guidelines to shooting still photographs in the cave environment? Or does some have a link to specific resources that I could take a look at?

 

Thanks,

 

Bill

 

Cool pics. I've not taken a camera into a cave yet, but from talking to a few guys down in Florida, the biggest tip is light, light, and more light. I know guys like Wes Skiles also do long exposure/multi-flash pics, where they leave the shutter open and fire strobes in several locations to illuminate a big space - not sure if you'll have buddies along to station out in the cave with hand-held strobes, but if so, that might work. You might also check the forums at cavediver.net - they've got a photo section with the people who took them listed, if you like someone's work.

 

Good luck, would like to see what you come back with.

[kriptap 0]

.

Edited June 27, 2007 by kriptap

[AllisonFinch 7]

Many of those were taken with fisheye/very wide angle lenses. That allows you to get very close-maximizing your strobes.

[meister 1]

Good collection of pictures! <_<

 

Here's a link to a book you might find of interest. Maybe a tad on the expensive side, but well worth the money, loaded with information and quality photos.

 

http://www.aquaquest.com/books/cenotes.htm

[Undertow 31]

I too am starting to explore cavern (not cave certified yet...) photography and have found little info. I am by no means an expert and have tried very little but here's what i've learned:

 

- the wider the better, I use my 10.5mm fisheye.

 

- try and have a diver model for you, it adds loads of context

 

- avoid even front lighting, unless it accents some back or side lighting or is lighting the diver. Formations and walls look far better with harsh shadows, gives them depth. I find 2x 11" arms gets 1 strobe far enough out

 

- use 1 strobe on the camera and 1 or 2 slaved either on a small plastic tripod (i have a Velbon) or in a diver's hand for side or back lighting. It also extends the reach of your lighting if the diver points the strobe away from you.

 

- start with cave entrances, they're easier

 

I only have 1 pic on hand to post, and it shows none of the lighting techniques as my 2 slaves malfunctioned this dive. Oh well. Have fun and be safe. Cheers,

 

Chris

 

 

Edit: This pic was taken at ISO 200, f/2.8 & 1/40th sec.

I'd shoot wide open (f/2.8) and keep ISO low otherwise noise will appear in the darker parts of the pics. The only difference shutter speed makes when shooting away from the cave entrance is to determine how bright the diver's dive light shows up - and yours too, so beware.

Edited June 27, 2007 by Undertow

[breals 0]

I too am starting to explore cavern (not cave certified yet...) photography and have found little info. I am by no means an expert and have tried very little but here's what i've learned:

 

- the wider the better, I use my 10.5mm fisheye.

 

- try and have a diver model for you, it adds loads of context

 

- avoid even front lighting, unless it accents some back or side lighting or is lighting the diver. Formations and walls look far better with harsh shadows, gives them depth. I find 2x 11" arms gets 1 strobe far enough out

 

- use 1 strobe on the camera and 1 or 2 slaved either on a small plastic tripod (i have a Velbon) or in a diver's hand for side or back lighting. It also extends the reach of your lighting if the diver points the strobe away from you.

 

- start with cave entrances, they're easier

 

I only have 1 pic on hand to post, and it shows none of the lighting techniques as my 2 slaves malfunctioned this dive. Oh well. Have fun and be safe. Cheers,

 

Chris

 

 

Edit: This pic was taken at ISO 200, f/2.8 & 1/40th sec.

I'd shoot wide open (f/2.8) and keep ISO low otherwise noise will appear in the darker parts of the pics. The only difference shutter speed makes when shooting away from the cave entrance is to determine how bright the diver's dive light shows up - and yours too, so beware.

 

Thanks!

 

We will see what I get, I have two strobes but don't have the slave sensor. I'll see what I can get in the cavern zone. I'll shoot wide open and then determine the shutter speed.

[breals 0]

Good collection of pictures! <_<

 

Here's a link to a book you might find of interest. Maybe a tad on the expensive side, but well worth the money, loaded with information and quality photos.

 

http://www.aquaquest.com/books/cenotes.htm

 

Yup, I've had this book for about 6 years now. I did my first Full Cave course with Steve, the author of the book.

[Walt Stearns 52]

Wide is good, but not too wide. Better to go with something in the 12 to 15mm range for crop sensor cameras Nikon, Canon 20 or 30D / 17 to 24mm with full frame Canon 5D, 1Ds cameras. Fisheyes like the Nikon 10.5 or Canon 15 really distort the hell out the stalactite and stalagmite formations.

 

Yes, starting with cave entrance is easier, but once your inside it all comes down to you and how you are going paint those passages.

 

For lighting, I often use two strobes spread out off to the sides of the housing with one to three more remotely placed. You have no natural light down a passage, therefore you need to create the illusion there is.

 

Camera and strobe settings: This is where TTL goes out the window. Better to run manual. Shutter speed at 60th, strobes set to ¾ to full output. The walls inside the passages of Akumal caves maybe light in color but there is no light other than what you brought. I usually like to have my slave strobes power settings set higher than the strobes working off camera.

 

If you have a diver to model for you, besides adding context to the image, have them hold one of the strobes. In this case the strobe will often pass for a dive light.

[azcaddman 0]

ahh, cave photos .. something I can help with

 

started out with housed film (nikon), then on to canon a640.

 

remote strobes are your friend ... I use an Ikelite adapter to go from the lower threaded rod on the doubles, to an arm system, use a 6" arm, then mounted to the strobe, then use a 3' extension, on a slave sensor, and you have the abilty to aim the strobe where you want it, and the diver holds the sensor (hopefuly pointing it at you).. works great with the black ikelite 200 strobes (i'm in the process of 'painting' my sensors so they're black also.

 

when not taking the photo, the strobe tucks in behind (below) the tanks, the sensor goes in the divers pocket, no entanglement risks, still nice & streamlined.

 

My current setup is the a640/ike housing, inon 100° wide angle (wet lens), 2 ss200's on the housing, 1 on the model's back

 

next trip (october) i'll play around with positioning a strobe or 2 on the floor, behind something (again the 3' extension on the cord is a big plus

 

now.. for some photos

 

one of the last ones I did on film

 

similar shot, with the a640

 

2 divers with back mounted strobes, 1 on camera

 

same 2, one on left has black strobe, one on right is the orange one (soon to be sharpied black)

 

lots more photos here it can be slow to load sometimes, be patient.

[Marcelo Krause 1]

I would also recommend a slave strobe. I have one Ikelite SS200 with the ikelite slave sensor. The strobe goes on the model’s back, usually between the double cylinders pointed a little bit upwards. The sensor must be pointed at you. Some times I used a SB-105 as an additional strobe on the model hand, but it must be pointed somehow towards you if you shot from a long distance. If you have a lot of time to prepare your shot, additional Ikelite strobes with the remote slave sensors can be spread and hidden around the cave. Another important hint is to be careful with the fisheye lens distortion.

You can see some pictures here:

http://www.marcelokrause.com.br/abismo/

 

Have a nice and safe trip!!!

 

Marcelo Krause.

[breals 0]

I would also recommend a slave strobe. I have one Ikelite SS200 with the ikelite slave sensor. The strobe goes on the model’s back, usually between the double cylinders pointed a little bit upwards. The sensor must be pointed at you. Some times I used a SB-105 as an additional strobe on the model hand, but it must be pointed somehow towards you if you shot from a long distance. If you have a lot of time to prepare your shot, additional Ikelite strobes with the remote slave sensors can be spread and hidden around the cave. Another important hint is to be careful with the fisheye lens distortion.

You can see some pictures here:

http://www.marcelokrause.com.br/abismo/

 

Have a nice and safe trip!!!

 

Marcelo Krause.

 

Well, I got back yesterday and here are my results on Flickr:

 

Gran Cenote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42515098@N00/...57600667411699/

 

Cenote Dos Ojos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42515098@N00/...57600666114224/

 

Cenote Chan Hol (Southern Tulum)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42515098@N00/...57600664954107/

 

Cenote Jailhouse:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42515098@N00/...57600667858716/

[Cerianthus 55]

Do you mind if I add you as a contact in flickr ?

[breals 0]

Do you mind if I add you as a contact in flickr ?

 

Not a problem at all.

[Yucca Patrol 0]

incredible! I'm a caver (happy to live in TAG!), but cannot imagine diving in a cave. You guys are awesome/nuts! But then again, my wife thinks I am nuts to rappel down into the pits, so I guess it is all relative. . .

 

Truly inspiring photos!

[tjgreen 0]

Well, I got back yesterday and here are my results on Flickr:

 

Gran Cenote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42515098@N00/...57600667411699/

 

Cenote Dos Ojos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42515098@N00/...57600666114224/

 

Cenote Chan Hol (Southern Tulum)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42515098@N00/...57600664954107/

 

Cenote Jailhouse:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42515098@N00/...57600667858716/

 

Very cool, nice job - I gotta get down there one of these days, the decoration in those caves makes Florida seem like wet rocks.

 

The real question is, what's a DIR camera setup look like? All in black of course, backup everything, stainless double-enders holding your strobes on... .

[breals 0]

Very cool, nice job - I gotta get down there one of these days, the decoration in those caves makes Florida seem like wet rocks.

 

The real question is, what's a DIR camera setup look like? All in black of course, backup everything, stainless double-enders holding your strobes on... .

 

Funny.

 

I did rig my camera/strobes like a stage bottle, with double enders attached to cave line, on each end. I would then clip it off one end to the left chest d-ring and then the other to the left hip ring, below the pressure gauge, and pulled the neoprene dome protector on. This helped a lot in the 30 min swim we had to do to reach the human remains in Chan Hol.

 

And unlike a Florida cave, like Ginnie, there is no flow at all, so you don't get shot out of opening when you are trying to exit the cave.

[tjgreen 0]

Funny.

 

I did rig my camera/strobes like a stage bottle, with double enders attached to cave line, on each end. I would then clip it off one end to the left chest d-ring and then the other to the left hip ring, below the pressure gauge, and pulled the neoprene dome protector on. This helped a lot in the 30 min swim we had to do to reach the human remains in Chan Hol.

 

And unlike a Florida cave, like Ginnie, there is no flow at all, so you don't get shot out of opening when you are trying to exit the cave.

 

Good idea, will have to remember that. Any trouble getting to your gauge or adjusting trim with that setup?

[breals 0]

Good idea, will have to remember that. Any trouble getting to your gauge or adjusting trim with that setup?

 

It's the same as having a stage bottle on, you just move everything out of the way. It doesn't affect trim too much, I can tell it's there but it's not annoying. I usually a lot more concerned on scraping it when I push through restrictions.

[jeremypayne 0]

- use 1 strobe on the camera and 1 or 2 slaved either on a small plastic tripod (i have a Velbon) or in a diver's hand for side or back lighting. It also extends the reach of your lighting if the diver points the strobe away from you.

Interesting ... if anyone is still following this thread ...

 

I'm going cenote diving in June and I have a few strobes ... a YS-110, YS-27 and a YS-15 - all of which can fire as optical slaves.

 

How close to the main strobe do you think the YS-27 and YS-15 have to be to fire automatically?

 

I could keep the YS-110 on the camera and carry/place/pawn-off the YS-27 and YS-15 on the ground or with other divers ... may have to budget two days in the cenotes instead of one ... this could get fun ...

[Nige Wade 0]

I did an underwater photo course with Gavin Newman about ten years ago.

On the course Gav told me about a 10 point technique he uses in total darkness to paint caves with light.

 

1: find a cavern with areas you can conceal yourself.

2: get to know the area really, really well.

3: housed camera with 12-24mm on a tripod weighted down with a couple of kilos of clip-on lead

4: use a strobe with a test firing facility the old Sea & Sea YS120 is perfect.

5: cover the stobe ready light with tape so it cant be seen. (wont show as a trail of light in final image)

6: place tripod in your desired position set f8 as a starting point set camera on 'bulb' (shutter locked open)

7: switch off all your lights press shutter release

8; in total darkness swim to an area where you can conceal yourself (out of shot) fire strobe full power pointing to the wall, stalectites, roof, floor etc and paint them with light.

9: change positions and repeat the process painting the whole area. last shot fire the stobe blindside to the camera with you visible mid water to create a diver sillouette

10: swim back to the camera close the shutter, check your image and if need be adjust the f stop to increase / decrease exposure and go again.

 

Clever old Gav eh? :glare:

 

Check out Gavins "room of tears" http://www.action-photo.u-net.com/roomoftears.htm the image was taken using the above

 

Good luck.

[drsteve 6]

I wish I had read this thread before I dove Dos Ojos a few weeks ago. Here are my humble efforts. They were taken with an EOS 5D, ISO 1600, Canon 17-40, Inon Z240+Z220 strobes. The first image really needs to be viewed large. Click on the image and select "All Sizes"

 

 

 

 

This last one is a bit silly. To me it looks like a face with the "eye" begin the hotspot from my light.

 

[drsteve 6]

8; in total darkness swim to an area where you can conceal yourself (out of shot) fire strobe full power pointing to the wall, stalectites, roof, floor etc and paint them with light.

Yikes! That sounds like a way to smash into cave formations! Not good.

 

Besides, this sounds like the old school film method of doing multiple exposures. Presumably the "digital" equivalent is taking real multiple exposures and making a pano out of them.

[jeremypayne 0]

I did an underwater photo course with Gavin Newman about ten years ago.

On the course Gav told me about a 10 point technique he uses in total darkness to paint caves with light.

 

1: find a cavern with areas you can conceal yourself.

2: get to know the area really, really well.

3: housed camera with 12-24mm on a tripod weighted down with a couple of kilos of clip-on lead

4: use a strobe with a test firing facility the old Sea & Sea YS120 is perfect.

5: cover the stobe ready light with tape so it cant be seen. (wont show as a trail of light in final image)

6: place tripod in your desired position set f8 as a starting point set camera on 'bulb' (shutter locked open)

7: switch off all your lights press shutter release

8; in total darkness swim to an area where you can conceal yourself (out of shot) fire strobe full power pointing to the wall, stalectites, roof, floor etc and paint them with light.

9: change positions and repeat the process painting the whole area. last shot fire the stobe blindside to the camera with you visible mid water to create a diver sillouette

10: swim back to the camera close the shutter, check your image and if need be adjust the f stop to increase / decrease exposure and go again.

 

Clever old Gav eh? :glare:

 

Check out Gavins "room of tears" http://www.action-photo.u-net.com/roomoftears.htm the image was taken using the above

 

Good luck.

Impressive. Even if my camera had a bulb setting, I'm not sure I could pull that off on my first cavern dive - but maybe someday! That's not an image I'll soon forget.

 

 

I wish I had read this thread before I dove Dos Ojos a few weeks ago. Here are my humble efforts. They were taken with an EOS 5D, ISO 1600, Canon 17-40, Inon Z240+Z220 strobes. The first image really needs to be viewed large. Click on the image and select "All Sizes"

 

 

 

 

This last one is a bit silly. To me it looks like a face with the "eye" begin the hotspot from my light.

 

Did you shot any close-up or macro shots? Are the formations interesting close-up?

[drsteve 6]

Jeremy. No. I didn't bring my macro lens since I only had time for two dives and I didn't want to fiddle with the housing between dives. Besides, although there are interesting macro formations, no one will know that they are underwater! To get the feel of the place you need wide angle and something to give a sense of scale.