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Inon D-2000 for Fuji F30?

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Hi, I'm looking at an Inon D-2000 strobe for my Fuji F30 with Fuji housing. Any opinions out there on setup?

 

I found this, which seems like a good deal:

http://www.divervision.com/catalog/product...products_id=209

 

NON D-2000 Strobe and Flexible Arm Package

$589

Includes:

* 1 x INON D-2000 U/W Strobe

* 1 x 10Bar Adapter for INON strobes

* 1 x 10Bar Fiber Optic Cable for INON Strobes

* 1 x 10Bar 24cm Flexible Arm

* 1 x 10Bar Slot-stay Tray S (Single Flex-arm Accepted)

 

Any thoughts on flexible arm vs. ball arm? Recommendations for length? (24cm, 30, or 36)

 

What about the 10Bar fiber optic cable, how does this compare with the Inon cable? Looks like the Inon cable includes a feature to block the camera's internal flash, which seems desirable?

 

I really don't want to spend much more than this... I was tempted by the Fantasea Nano Flash or the SeaLife SL960D as compact, lower cost options. But from what I've read on this forum it sounds like those might not be "bargains" in the long run. On the other hand, the F30 already has good low-light capabilities, and I'm just looking for nice travel snapshots, not pro-quality images, so I don't want to go overboard.

 

Thanks for any recommendations.

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looks like a pretty good deal. For this compact setup, i think the flex arm should be good enough. D2000 is a great little strobe. I used to have one but have upgraded to the Z240's for my DSLR. One of these days, I'll take my Fuji F30 down with a Z240 attached.

 

the 10bar fiber optic set is fine. Instead of the costly Inon Mount base, 10bar just uses a simple velco attachment for the fiber optic cable to the housing.

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I also have an F30 in the Fuji housing. It seems like this is a great strobe for that setup. But I have a question. Should you pay the extra for the focus light of the 2000 or go with the 2000s. If the camera is going to fire a preflash anyway to figure out exposure, what does the focus light do for you?

 

BTW, I used my F30 with a sealife SL960D and got some ok results. I originally bought the sealife to use with a Olympus C4000 in a pt-010 setup. I've gotten some good photos out of it, but recently bought the F30. I'm considering selling my olympus setup with the sealife strobe and getting the inon to go with my fuji. Just thinking out loud here.

How much would a C4000, pt-010, with a SL960D be worth?

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looks like a pretty good deal. For this compact setup, i think the flex arm should be good enough. D2000 is a great little strobe. I used to have one but have upgraded to the Z240's for my DSLR. One of these days, I'll take my Fuji F30 down with a Z240 attached.

 

the 10bar fiber optic set is fine. Instead of the costly Inon Mount base, 10bar just uses a simple velco attachment for the fiber optic cable to the housing.

 

Thanks - does the 10bar's velcro attachment cover the internal flash, or do you have to tape it off?

 

I also have an F30 in the Fuji housing. It seems like this is a great strobe for that setup. But I have a question. Should you pay the extra for the focus light of the 2000 or go with the 2000s. If the camera is going to fire a preflash anyway to figure out exposure, what does the focus light do for you?

 

I'm a California diver and have to deal with somewhat murky conditions. I've found that my camera often has a hard time focusing, particularly at depth. I'm thinking this is because there is not enough light and/or contrast for the camera to focus on the intended subject. I was hoping this might help.

 

Thanks for your comments.

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Chris- the problem with the focus light on the strobe is that usually you don't point the strobe directly at the subject to avoid backscatter unless you are doing a real close macro shot so it kind of defeats its purpose.

 

skj - I believe the 10bar velco does cover the internal flash by cover the flash area on the housing.

 

Sounds like a focus light would help in your case. I had the same issue with my old Canon S70 until I picked up a focus light. Or if you have a helpful buddy who can shine their torch on your subject for you!

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And update on how the D-2000 works with the Fuji F30? I am considering switching from my YS-110 to the D-2000. I dive with a Fuji F30...

 

Have very limited success with the DS-TTL with the Fuji F30. On Aperture Priority, it just doesn't work at all. On Shutter Priority, it works fairly well, but I am stuck with the largest aperature, 2.8, and limited depth of field.

 

According to the documentation from Inon, to get the TTL to work you are supposed to set the camera to Auto Mode, M on the F30. I guess what I would like to know is how you setup the Fuji F30, either M, A/S, and if A/S, A or S, fast or slow, etc.

 

I guess I will go and try and test one in a shop.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Mike

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Mike, that's odd... I don't have a D-2000 to play with but the settings should be almost identical to my Z-240. M mode for the F30 is deceiving... It doesn't give you any control over shutter/ aperture but only allows you to adjust ISO and overall exposure through the "+/-" button. I would suggest putting at A/S and set so you have control over the aperture. Make sure the flash setting is on "forced flashed" and definitely not red eye. This will default the shutter to 1/60s which should be good for most shots unless you have fast moving critters.

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Mike, that's odd... I don't have a D-2000 to play with but the settings should be almost identical to my Z-240. M mode for the F30 is deceiving... It doesn't give you any control over shutter/ aperture but only allows you to adjust ISO and overall exposure through the "+/-" button. I would suggest putting at A/S and set so you have control over the aperture. Make sure the flash setting is on "forced flashed" and definitely not red eye. This will default the shutter to 1/60s which should be good for most shots unless you have fast moving critters.

 

Yes, this is how I have been shooting: MACRO: Aperture Priority, usually F8, and Forced Flash, which sets the Shutter to 1/60, like you say, ISO at 100. YS-110 set on TTL. For the most part, this works okay, although sometimes I get overexposure/under. Guess it depends on how much light from the strobe is reflected. Would seem to me that angle would affect it. Straight on with the lens is probably what the camera is expecting, but often i come at the subject top down, like the sun.

 

WIDE ANGLE: I usually just open the aperture some, kick up the ISO a stop or two, and shoot with TTL on. If the light is not enough, i switch the strobe to manual.

 

What kind of experience are you having?

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post-4239-1195174795_thumb.jpg

Mike, that's odd... I don't have a D-2000 to play with but the settings should be almost identical to my Z-240. M mode for the F30 is deceiving... It doesn't give you any control over shutter/ aperture but only allows you to adjust ISO and overall exposure through the "+/-" button. I would suggest putting at A/S and set so you have control over the aperture. Make sure the flash setting is on "forced flashed" and definitely not red eye. This will default the shutter to 1/60s which should be good for most shots unless you have fast moving critters.

 

I used my Fuji F30 in a Fuji case for the first time two weeks ago and got good results with the A/S setting, "forced flash" and aperture between f5.6 through f8 to about f11. As I could not get an external strobe set up in time for that weekend, I used the inbuilt strobe within its limits - of course, slightly disappointing after years of using a film SLR with twin strobes.

 

I noticed that focus was an issue to a degree, and I think a strobe with an extra modelling light would help. Otherwise I would be interested to hear from people as to what tray/arm setup they use for their Fuji F30.

 

I will persist with either my old Nikonos SB105 strobe, or the Sea&Sea YS90 (non-digital) and the Heinrichs-Weinkamp adaptor (could not synch it as yet, which is why I had no external strobe for the dive). If unsuccessful, I will also consider an Inon strobe and possibly a tray/arm.

 

I used Inon external wet lens (macro lens) and was really happy with it. With it, it did not make much difference whether the camera was in a macro mode or not.

 

Regards to all

 

Robert Z

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Yes, this is how I have been shooting: MACRO: Aperture Priority, usually F8, and Forced Flash, which sets the Shutter to 1/60, like you say, ISO at 100. YS-110 set on TTL. For the most part, this works okay, although sometimes I get overexposure/under. Guess it depends on how much light from the strobe is reflected. Would seem to me that angle would affect it. Straight on with the lens is probably what the camera is expecting, but often i come at the subject top down, like the sun.

 

WIDE ANGLE: I usually just open the aperture some, kick up the ISO a stop or two, and shoot with TTL on. If the light is not enough, i switch the strobe to manual.

 

What kind of experience are you having?

 

To be honest I haven't been using that setup often. I gave it a shot while doing some local club dives here in HK (too lazy to gear up the full DSLR). For close up macro, I thought the setup was OK. I did have to adjust the Inon EV controller a bit depending on strobe placement.

 

I agree with Robert, the focus of the F30 can be frustrating u/w. But part of that is I'm spoiled from using a DSLR most of the time :wacko:

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To be honest I haven't been using that setup often. I gave it a shot while doing some local club dives here in HK (too lazy to gear up the full DSLR). For close up macro, I thought the setup was OK. I did have to adjust the Inon EV controller a bit depending on strobe placement.

 

I agree with Robert, the focus of the F30 can be frustrating u/w. But part of that is I'm spoiled from using a DSLR most of the time :wacko:

 

 

I have the Inon Tray with the adaptor for the Fuji F30 and the Wing Angle lens, 105mm. Inon makes it so that if you are using their lens adaptor, you have to use their tray. So I got to buy a new tray. So anyway, I have the whole Inon setup, except i have the YS-110 instead of the D-2000. Don't ask.... :)

 

I have a Nikon D200, and want to get a housing for it, but now the D300 is out, so I figure I should wait for a D300 and 300 Housing. But what an investment..... Arg...

 

Next big trip is Indo in July, so i should get a couple more chances to play with my Fuji Setup here in Thailand, and if i am still not satisfied, then I guess I'll just sell my car and take the plunge with the 300....

 

Thanks for the comments fellas...

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I have the Inon Tray with the adaptor for the Fuji F30 and the Wing Angle lens, 105mm. Inon makes it so that if you are using their lens adaptor, you have to use their tray. So I got to buy a new tray. So anyway, I have the whole Inon setup, except i have the YS-110 instead of the D-2000. Don't ask.... :wacko:

(--)Thanks for the comments fellas...

 

Does the Inon tray have a thread long enough to keep both the lens mount and the camera attached?

 

In my case, I used Fuji F30 in its Fuji case mounted on the Nikonos tray as the thread size is the same.

Because the screw supplied with the Fuji lens adaptor is too short, I used the original Nikonos tray screw, but through a side slot rather than the central hole. It worked, but was a bit wobbly - I used an elastic cord with a clip to keep the camera in place on the tray.

 

This allowed me to use the Nikonos tray and arm, for the Nikonos SB-105 strobe.

Ideally, I could even use a TLC Nikonos tray, as it allows for the TLC arm or arms to be used (my strobes have TLC fittings to attach to the TLC arms).

 

Robert

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Just a quick question for those using this set up. I just add a strobe with the inon fiber optic connection. My instructions were not in english but from the pictures it seems that you have to cut or expose part of the end of the fiber optic cable? Just want to make sure before I mess it up. Sorry for jumping in just didn't want to add another thread.

Thanks

-Chad

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When I went to buy the Inon W/A and Tray, I saw the manual, and it sure looked like you had to cut the cable. Weird. Anyway, I have the S&S YS-110, and for that, there is a fiber optic cable with identical connectors one each end.

 

On end connects right into the YS-110 optical sensor port, so that's a breeze. The other end connects to this little piece of hardware. I tape the hardware piece to the housing, over the onboard flash, which a) lets the light from the flash go into the fiber optic cable, and b, blocks out all remaining light. I think it works pretty well.

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Hi, any underwater photos taken with the F30 orF31 to share?

 

 

Here are a couple:

 

2043706676_0105a4cfe3_b.jpg

 

1998462767_acdda40cbb_b.jpg

Edited by mshohman

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My F31 was used as a backup. No strobe or wide angle lens, just a Magic Filter. I used it mostly for video and only took a few photos with it.

 

I used an Olympus SP-310 with Sea & Sea WAL as my main setup. The Heinrichs Weikamp adapter worked just fine with my Sea & Sea YS-60. I covered the Olympus flash with a piece of underexposed slide film. The Olympus was put on Slave mode (setting 1 out of 10). That gave me very quick recycling. I used half and full power for the Sea & Sea strobe. The whole thing worked just fine until the Olympus housing leaked.

post-2471-1198269073_thumb.jpg

Edited by DesertEagle

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Decent pictures! Thank you for sharing.

 

My F31 was used as a backup. No strobe or wide angle lens, just a Magic Filter. I used it mostly for video and only took a few photos with it.

 

I used an Olympus SP-310 with Sea & Sea WAL as my main setup. The Heinrichs Weikamp adapter worked just fine with my Sea & Sea YS-60. I covered the Olympus flash with a piece of underexposed slide film. The Olympus was put on Slave mode (setting 1 out of 10). That gave me very quick recycling. I used half and full power for the Sea & Sea strobe. The whole thing worked just fine until the Olympus housing leaked.

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Your welcome. Good luck, and I am looking forward to seeing some of your photos!

 

Mike

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