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2 Inon 240 with Nikon 10,5mm

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Hi

Currently i'm using S&S YS-90 auto for my macro set-up.

I tried using rhese 2 units of YS-90 for my 10.5mm lens.

the results were not good.

i think the strobes are not strong enough to cover the whole area of 10,5mm

Right now, i'm thinking to buy 2 unit of Inon 240z.

Is 2 unit of Inon 240 strong enough to team-up with Nikon 10.5mm?

 

Thx You

 

Andree

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Hi

Currently i'm using S&S YS-90 auto for my macro set-up.

I tried using rhese 2 units of YS-90 for my 10.5mm lens.

the results were not good.

i think the strobes are not strong enough to cover the whole area of 10,5mm

Right now, i'm thinking to buy 2 unit of Inon 240z.

Is 2 unit of Inon 240 strong enough to team-up with Nikon 10.5mm?

 

Thx You

 

Andree

´

 

Hi Andree!

Googling/comparing the GN and the coverage of the Inon Z240 and the S&S YS90-Auto, they seem to be pretty much like the same.....

 

Inon Z240: GN 24, Coverage: 100degrees

 

S&S YS-90Auto: GN22, Coverage 105degrees

 

The coverage of your S&S looks sligthly better than the Inons, while the Inon's looks sligthly more powerfull.

 

Have you tried using a diffuser on your S&S's, which should make it a little more easy to fill out the coverage of the 10.5mm fisheye? Looks like many guys here using the Inon's for WA with great success and comparing the two strobes right out from the data, your S&S's should be able to do almost the same??

 

I'm quite courious to see what experinces other guys can come up with, since I'm about to buy the Z240 myself! :-)

 

Best regards and good luck from Kim Meineche

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I haven't had problems with coverage with my Ys-90dx's, although the strobe placement is important, and you'll need the diffusers, are you using the diffusers?

 

I thought about moving up to Inon Z240's for wide-angle, but I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes it terms of better photos...

 

does anyone have any experiences to share? (moving from Ys90's to Z240's)

 

thanks,

scott

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does anyone have any experiences to share? (moving from Ys90's to Z240's)

 

thanks,

scott

 

I traded my Ys90's for Z220's a few years ago. In my tests, the Z220's have a wider beam and is about one stop brighter.

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I've found that you need to get pretty close to the main object in the photo and have the stobes spread wide apart. Even then I found objects were not illuminated unless they were within 3'-4' of the lens. I found it helped to use both strobes trained on, eg really lighting an object in the foreground; rather than trying to get broad, wide-spread illumination.

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ohhhhh ok! so the most important thing is the strobe placement.

last time i was using Sea Arm VI, which is a lot shorter compare to people that using Ultra Light Arm.

I guess i need to buy Ultra Light Arm for my 10.5mm

Thx You very much for all the information :D

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I went from Ike 200's to Inon 240's.

With Nikon 10.5 and 16 mm fish eye there ia adequate coverage for all cfwa; but not enough for a full shot of a whale shark.

No matter how strong the strobe is, there will be color fall off as strobe to subject distance increases.

You need to evaluate your w/a shooting and decide how much weight you're willing to carry around.

For my wife and I the 240's are a good size. For w/a we use two 8" arms on each side and one on a side for macro.

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Today I shot the 10-17mm (at 10mm) with a single tiny YS30 for light - shooting wreck + diver shots at about 30m in the Med. I'll post some of the images in a few days, but I will be interested to see who can guess what strobe(s) I was using from the results!

 

A pair of YS240s will be fine for the 10.5mm, if used well! Certainly a step up from the YS90, IMO.

 

Alex

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Alex, YS240's? Did you mean to write YS-250s?

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You should be able to get good pictures with the YS90's. In most cases, you cannot light the whole area of such an extreme WA-lens as a 180° fisheye no matter what strobes. You'll have to balance the strobe with ambient light.

Anyway, I have used dual S&S YS60's, which are the same in terms of power and spread as the 90's, and I now have dual Inon Z240's. The latter are an improvement inmo - power and spread is slightly better, recycle is m u c h faster, controls are more flexible, and it's even a bit nimbler... Much more expensive though. Worth it? Depends on how deep your pockets are. I use them with the 10.5 and think it works well. Then I'm not a pro – but I know that some very talanted photographers use dual Z240:s with the 10.5. Some people think they are a little too cold, but if you are satisfied with the Sea&Seas, you will most likely be happy with the Inons.

For lighting an entire whale shark, I think you need something really big. Then you'll just have to persuade the whaleshark to position itself correctly and stay put, because you will not to be able to move around with that rig :ninja:

 

cheers

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