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Islandbound

Woody's Diopter Technique

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When pushing on the diopter underwater how important is it to ensure that it is perfectly straight against the port? Obviously I think its important but am a bit afraid to push somewhat hard underwater in case water gets past the oring.

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Once you are at depth, the water pressure is going to be much greater than the pressure you would apply pushing the diopter on.

 

Phil

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I hadnt thought of that! When I was pushing it on at home prior to going out I saw the port (Ikelite) move a little and was worried that the seal would be broken even if only momentarily.

 

Thanks!

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The lens has holes in the rubber mounting because it needs to have water on both sides. So the pressure doesn't push it on underwater.

 

James

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The important thing is to ensure that there is nothing but water between the port and the diopter (no air, crud, etc.). I use the 100 mm (diameter) on a 110 mm flat port. I had the 100 and too cheap to buy a new one. If the skirt is catawampus on the port, it is possible to vignette. As previously noted, there is no pressure differential..

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It was the vignetting (sp?) I was worried about. The first time I used the lens it seemed to me that there were some "softer" edges on some of the sides of pictures but I couldnt be sure that they werent just fine silt or a salinity differential.

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CATAWAMPUS, what a great word and the cause of most flooded equipment. This word should be added to the underwater photographers dictionary.

 

Phil

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Hi IslandBound,

 

I only mention the possibility of vigneting when using a diopter with a smaller diameter than the port diameter. I use and have used the 90 & 100 mm diameter diopters on the respective ports (for Nikkor 60 & 105 macro lens) on a 35 mm camera and have not noticed any softness in the corners. With a smaller digital sensor, this would be even less of a problem. I don't seem to have soft corner problem with the 100mm diapter on the 110 mm port (Nikkor 60mm), but I will give it a closer look.

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