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Is there anyone doing any deals (discounts) on the L&M Sunray 2000 LED video lights yet?

Or do you have any recommendations?

 

Cheers

Des

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Is there anyone doing any deals (discounts) on the L&M Sunray 2000 LED video lights yet?

Or do you have any recommendations?

 

Cheers

Des

 

I doubt something so new retailers will be giving away too many "deals", however I recently purchased the Sunray 1000s, and B&H PHoto had an attractive price, as well as did marinevisions.com. I bought my 1000s from Marinevisions.com I'd check with both of them. Everyone else I shopped was selling at "retail".

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Crude as it may be, below is a "test" of my new Sunray 1000s taken in a pool. I think the exposure setting on some shots were under, but I will work on that. The above water baseline image was not taken at the same time of day, so this was not a very controlled test.

 

It was a very bright and sunny day, and I had difficulties finding shade in order to test the Sunray's fill. Natural light was overpowering the Sunrays at distances over a few feet. But to me, a rank amateur, the colors look good enough for me.

 

I'll be taking the lights on a real dive this weekend in the dark Puget Sound waters... that will give me a better test of how they work.

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Edited by wolfeeldiver

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Just returned from Alaska where I used the Sunray 2000s exclusively. I am greatly impressed with them. The water up there was a cold 41 degrees which we know reduces battery time, we had poor vis at 5-10ft with lots of particulate in the water. Using the low or med power settings reduced the particulate showing up and were best for any close up or macro work. The high power setting will get a good workout in the Cocos in a couple of weeks. With the HIDs, I was very used to changing pod batteries after each dive. With the 2000, I could leave the battery in after a dive, leave it overnight on the changing table and use them just fine for the next dive the next day. I never saw the low battery warning. There were no hotspots and the spread was very good.

Steve B)

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Sunray 2000 from Marine Visions: Joe is the man over there!! He set my new rig with Gates EX1, External Monitor, & the Sunrays.

 

Wow, it is a beautiful set up and worked phenominal on its first dive!!!!!!! Thanks Joe!

 

Sunrays performed exceptional. I was shooting my kid swimming @ his Grandma s pool @ night. The lights lit up the pool like day. I will post footage soon.

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I took my Sunray 1000s out this weekend in the green Puget Sound waters this weekend, actually in the San Juans for those that know area. Due to warm weather, plankton bloom and runoff, water vis was 5-10 at the most, 49 degree, with lots of particles in the water too. Overall, I was very impressed with the sunrays. I had to shoot really close to the subjects due to the dirty water and up close FULL power was too much for some of the yellow subjects. I often lowered the output to Half power, and even sometimes Quarter power in order to better blend the light to the ambient surface (in upward shots). Having the abilty to simply push the button, and knock down the intensity is a great feature of the Sunrays. The only trouble experienced was with the set screw in my GAS mounting adapter (used to mount the pods to my Gates HC7 housing) was not tight enough and the first dive one pod was sliding loose.. But I wont make that mistake again. Light and Motion should put (2) set screw per pods in the GAS for redundancy. As for color.... looks great. I shot both using the OUTDOOR setting as well as WB to a white slate exposed by the lights. Perhaps I'll post a photo or two here later. I left the lights running mostly during the dives, 3 short dives, total time about 90 minutes and used the same batteries.

 

FYI, the LMI Sunray1000s, GAS Adapter on a Gates HC7/9 Housing is a little heavy, a couple pounds negative. I custom made some ABS floats and attached them under the housing handles to offset this, and now the housing is fine. Just a little heft.

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Wolfeeldiver-

" ABS floats and attached them under the housing handles to offset this, and now the housing is fine. Just a little heft." Could you attach a photo of your rig with these. My Bluefin is alittle heavier with it's after market pods and I was looking at options to bring it closer to neutral, possibly the ULCS double buoyancy arms, except I like my flexible arms. I'm unsure where I could attach extra floatation since the top has the external monitor. There isn't much room on the handles and Drew says don't add it underneath the unit. Thanks. John

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Errr Drew doesn't say so... physics does. :D

Look at an air bubble in a closed bottle. It always wants to be above the more dense water.

Try to use any BC device and it will do the same. If you use a minimal amount on a very heavy housing/light combo, and the majority of weight still has a low cg, then it shouldn't be a problem.

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I stand corrected. I should have said Drew's recommendation brought this to my attention. I wanted to give due credit of course. I suppose after so many posts I occasionally mistake Drew for a law of nature. Back on topic, I would like to see some pics of buoyancy set ups, especially if anyone has something for a Bluefin housing. I will try a small amount of foam between the pods. Thanks Drew. John

Edited by biminitwist

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I'm sorry .. I dont have a photo of my rig with my bouyancy chambers attached. I'll dig the stuff out, and take a photo in a day or so and post it here.

 

Without the floats, my setup is negative, but not unmanagble, just more than I care for. With my floats, still negative, but now "just right for me" 1/4 or 1/2 lb negative I'd guess.

 

Below is a photo of my rig. Just imagine a short tube of black ABS 1-1/2" pipe with end caps, One chamber mounted under each handle, running parallel to each battery pod. Each tube is about 6" long.

 

This configurationl sits upright when placed on the bottom or when released. It does not want to flip up nor invert. I do not have to fight it. All the heavy negative stuff (GAS adapter and the battery pods) are all located "in between" and in the same plane as the new bouyancy chambers and are all firmly mounted to the Housings mounting base.

 

Remember, my goal was to offset the negative bouyancy caused by the addition of the the added Sunray battery pods and GAS mounting adapter. In my case mounting my float chambers just next to the battery pods and mounting hardware works well. (FYI, If LMI had made the GAS mounting adapter out of Delrin instead of Aluminum, I may not have needed these floats.)

 

I suggest you visit the hardware store, whip out a similiar setup, and do a water test it to determine if it will help your setup or not.

 

I'll update the photo soon.

 

Also, I'm not sure if foam will work. I'd assume that it needs to be closed cell in order to not fill with water and keep its bouyancy.. and if such.. foam would compress under pressure.. like a wet suit... thus you'd lose its benefits. I tend to think you need a rigid body type of float.

post-17401-1216138452_thumb.jpg

Edited by wolfeeldiver

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Thanks. Judging from your description of the buoyancy tubes they are also toward the underside of your rig paralleling the batteries. I can try something similar except there isn't room with the handles on mine for that setup. I could have a single tube down the center between the battery pods. Since that places it below the housing I was looking at other options. It is certainly cheap enough to try out and see if it works. Like yours, my housing/pods isn't unbearably heavy but I've gotten use to a more neutral housing weight. Where would you get black ABS pipe and end caps? Your housing looks great with those lights! Thanks again. John

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Where would you get black ABS pipe and end caps? Your housing looks great with those lights! Thanks again. John

My apologies for not having a photo of the float pods attached,.. all my stuff is packed away but I'll try to post a photo soon.

Yes, my float pods are parallel to battery pods, one each on the "outside" just about under each handle. In my situation the Sunray batteries, and the floats are all under the housing in the same plane.

I purchased a 4 foot lenght of 1-1/2" diameter black ABS pipe from a local hardware store that sold plumbing supplies. You could go larger or smaller in diameter. They also had the end caps, and a can of ABS glue. I made floats 4" and 6-7" lengths and experimented with different floats in a pool to determine what worked. I attached mine to the handles using a "U" shaped bent length all-thread stainless rod, with nuts attaching to alum mouting plates I made. I need to post a photo...

I opted to mount to the bottom, as these now provide "feet" when resting the housing on a boat deck or the bottom. No longer is the Sunray pods taking the burden of being abused. Also this freed up the top of my housing's dovetail slot. The Gates housing has a dovetail slot where I can mount a carrying handle, or a WB slate, or antoher float if desired or anything. Im actually considering mouting my dive computer up there.. where its easy to see....

Edited by wolfeeldiver

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Heres samples of my first use of a Sunray 1000s in the dark, green, silty 6'-12' vis Puget Sound waters.

The anemone was with the WB set to OUTDOOR. The crude color chart and all others with WB set to a white slate. These are simple frame grabs, with no changes made. Some were shot at Full, some Half, some Quarter power. I did not reset WB when changing power.

Since visibility was so poor on these dives, I had to keep the subject just a few feet away so I did not get a chance to shoot anthing further away.

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Edited by wolfeeldiver

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My word the visibility looks stunning :)

Thanks for the kind words.... I'm fortunate to have some prior experience with dirty water still photography so for this first video attempt that happened to be in dirty water I whipped out my "bag of tricks":

1.) I shot very very close to the subject with a wide angle port. These are taken with the Fathom WP25. Most subjects are less than 2 feet away.

2.) Sunray Light arms were extended a bit longer than was factory supplied I added a few more lock-line links. They were pointed at very wide angles from the sides and as much as possible to eliminate backscatter. I attempted to illuminate the subject only and none of the water between the subject and lens. I'm tinkering with the idea of making some "french flags" or "barndoors" type of devices for my light heads so that I can fine tune the light angles for this dirty water purpose.

post-17401-1216328827_thumb.jpg

Edited by wolfeeldiver

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Heres a link to my first video and taken using the Sunray 1000 LED lights.

 

Water vis was poor, very green, but hey, I suppose getting wet is better than nothing.

 

http://www.vimeo.com/1391938

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Thanks. Judging from your description of the buoyancy tubes they are also toward the underside of your rig paralleling the batteries. ... Thanks again. John

Finally, here's a photo of how I rigged some bouyancy floats on the Gates HC7/9 housing and Sunray 1000 lights. As the battery pods and the GAS mounting adapter tend to make this rig a little negative, this setup helps mitigate that. It's still slightly negative, well balanced.

post-17401-1217367593.jpg

post-17401-1217367618.jpg

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Just bought a set of SunRay 2000's and the GAS adapter to hook them up to my Amphibico EVO Pro housing. I had to make some washers for the provided screws, since they bottomed out in the housing. I've also ordered more links for the arms, since I'd like to have them about 5 links longer. I have a rigid foam float covered with fiberglass that I made to use with my old Amphibico Halogen light set, but the 2000's are about 2lbs heavier underwater, so I'm going to need two lengths of 1-1/2" PVC pipe attached to the battery pods to get close to neutral (still about 8oz negative in a salt water swimming pool). Is there an easy way to insert a .JPG picture into a post, or does it have to have a URL link?

 

Vic

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... Is there an easy way to insert a .JPG picture into a post, or does it have to have a URL link?

Vic

WHen I made my prior posts with attached images.. there was a section to browse to an image file saved on my computer, and a button to upload it. Thats what I did... I had to downsize the images prior however due to the maximum upload file size.

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Wolfeeldiver;

 

Yes, these new L & M lights look promising, and I plan to see them at DEMA. The actual dates for DEMA are October 22-25, 2008.

Good post!

 

Shine a Light!

 

 

Bill Macdonald

www.youtube.com/007bmac

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OK, Here are some pictures. Took me awhile to find the browse since the attachments edtior was collapsed.

post-5924-1218682803.jpg

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So far I'm pleased with the sunray 1000's. Battery run time at hight power is well over an hour. The light heads and battery pods are solidly built. If money were no object, I'd have got the 2000s... But I'll give these a try for now.

 

There was only one thing that I was not too fond of however. The supplied Lock-Line arms take a bit of a force to "snap" the arms into the light heads. I have a fear that during this muscling process that I might accidently break the power connection fitting. The bulkhead connector where the cord enters the lighthead on the 1000s its made of plastic. When snapping the two together, this part of the light is at risk.

 

So I devised an intermediate "adapter" consisting of two pieces of plastic. One is permanently bolted to the light head. The other is muscled and "snapped" onto the arm. (by this method nothing of value is at risk of being damaged.) Then the two plastic parts are simply bolted together with a locknut and bolt. It takes a couple of tools to assemble in the field, but I'd rather do that than risk damaging the lighthead. Here's a photo of the homemade adapter, apart and when assembled.

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Mike-

 

Where did you find the black plastic pipe you used for your floats, or did you paint it black?

 

Thanks for any info.

 

Vic

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I got a set of the sunray 2000 lights in April and have used them now in Fiji and in Tonga. The lights are bright enough that I was able to use cyan filters in daylight and white-balance the camera for the ambient light. I could shoot soft coral wide-angle shots using the lights to fill in detail without the background going silvery-flat. And the burn-time is excellent. Finally, a great step forward in UW video lighting....

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I got a set of the sunray 2000 lights in April and have used them now in Fiji and in Tonga. The lights are bright enough that I was able to use cyan filters in daylight and white-balance the camera for the ambient light. I could shoot soft coral wide-angle shots using the lights to fill in detail without the background going silvery-flat. And the burn-time is excellent. Finally, a great step forward in UW video lighting....

 

Tell us more... I can't wait to try them out, but don't have a "real" trip planned till the end of December. Which Cyan filters do you use, also what camera and housing are you using.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Vic

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