Changing lenses

[Gus_Smedstad 0]

I've purchased an Ikelite housing for my Rebel XT, a 60mm macro lens, and a 10-22mm wide angle lens. I've experimented with it a bit, and a couple of questions come to mind.

 

Suppose you're doing two dives at one site, which is pretty common on liveabords in my experience. The obvious thing would be to make one dive with the wide-angle lens, and one with the macro. However, it seems problematic getting clean and dry enough to handle the camera during the surface interval. I'd hate to think of a drip of salt water getting into the open body. Particularly since with the 10-22mm lens, you really have to mount the lens AFTER the body is in the housing.

 

What do you usually do? What sort of precautions do you take?

 

On a related note, how much silcone grease should I be packing? I generally only grease the O-rings of things like dive lights once per trip, but I'm not opening up the battery compartment after every dive, either.

 

And what about a lanyard? I have this vision of dropping the camera and having it sink to the bottom on a wall dive.

 

- Gus

Edited October 19, 2007 by Gus_Smedstad

[TheRealDrew 0]

I've purchased an Ikelite housing for my Rebel XT, a 60mm macro lens, and a 10-22mm wide angle lens. I've experimented with it a bit, and a couple of questions come to mind..

 

Suppose you're doing two dives at one site, which is pretty common on liveabords in my experience. The obvious thing would be to make one dive with the wide-angle lens, and one with the macro. However, it seems problematic getting clean and dry enough to handle the camera during the surface interval. I'd hate to think of a drip of salt water getting into the open body. Particularly since with the 10-22mm lens, you really have to mount the lens AFTER the body is in the housing.

 

What do you usually do? What sort of precautions do you take?

 

As to precautions on changing things, I am very conservative - I leave the camera set-up until I am done diving and after it has been rinsed, toweled down then left a bit to air dry before I will open it up. (And then also towel it down again paying attention (again) to latch areas, strobe arms, all nooks and crannies Even when there is time to dry water can often be in latches and other areas. .)

 

Not sure how much of surface interval you are speaking about (I have been on a dive boat where they thought a proper surface interval was 15 minutes after a 90 foot dive, no joke) , and even though I can set things up fairly quickly I try never to set up any equipment in a situation where the clock has any real influence on how fast I have to get it done if I can avoid doing so. If you think it is not clean and dry enough, you should go with that.

 

On a related note, how much silcone grease should I be packing? I generally only grease the O-rings of things like dive lights once per trip, but I'm not opening up the battery compartment after every dive, either.

 

Doesn't take alot to take care of the O-Rings and over greasing can cause its own issues. Usually if something is sealed and not re-opened no need to grease it again.

 

And what about a lanyard? I have this vision of dropping the camera and having it sink to the bottom on a wall dive.

 

- Gus

 

I have a lanyard that gets clipped to my BCD when I am in the water, the other side is attached to the camera

[ScubaSpen 0]

I agree with Drew and follow very similar procedures.

 

I think the most important thing is to give yourself plenty of time to setup. I see to many people rushing to setup at the last minute and do not do a proper check of the O ring seals, which leads to tears and sobbing after the dive.

 

I have an Ike housing and it takes me about 15mins to setup and check everything.

[markdhanlon 0]

I'm very anal about cleaning my orings, so if I don't have a place to do that, then I won't break that seal. That's why I typically stick with a single lens for a day, unless I'm coming back to shore for the surface interval.

 

I recently did a two month dive trip, doing 80+ dives and used a total of 2 Ike silicone tubes. I took extra of course, but you don't use much, and like I said above, I'm anal about cleaning my orings.

 

I have set up my rig in a rush a couple of times and those were probably the worst dives I've ever done because the whole time I'm looking at my camera praying that I set it up correctly and that it works or I've done something stupid like leave the lens cap on. It always pays to take the time to set up properly. If you don't have the time, don't risk it, leave the camera behind.

[Gus_Smedstad 0]

As to precautions on changing things, I am very conservative - I leave the camera set-up until I am done diving and after it has been rinsed, toweled down then left a bit to air dry before I will open it up.

But you're still talking about changing lenses during the day, right? Because I think of the phrase "done diving" as meaning "after the last dive of the day."

 

I have no worries about setting up the camera in the morning, using it all day without changing anything except maybe strobe batteries, and then opening the housing after all dives are done and I'm showered and back in clothes. It's the idea of swapping lenses during the day that seems like a possible risk.

 

Not sure how much of surface interval you are speaking about

Typically about an hour. Never less than that, certainly. It's just that I've usually been in a wet suit at least partially for that entire period, certainly haven't showered except at the end of the day, and my hair is generally wet for a while after a dive.

 

I recently did a two month dive trip, doing 80+ dives and used a total of 2 Ike silicone tubes.

Those little 1cc tubes, like the samples that come with the housing? That doesn't seem like much for 80 dives, but obviously you didn't need to lubricate the O-rings that often.

 

I have an Ike housing and it takes me about 15mins to setup and check everything.

I've only been experimenting with it on land, but it doesn't seem that complicated. Though, uh, I've had some trouble getting the camera properly fastened. The first several times I tried it, it was too far from the back of the housing by about 2mm. Most of the back buttons wouldn't engage, the exposure compensation toggle would not depress the button, and the adjust dial in front wouldn't turn. I did manage to get it on correctly the last time. The whole business makes me appreciate how reliable and trouble free changing lenses is on land, by comparison.

 

But the more routine stuff like inserting the zoom gear sleeve, attaching the port, and closing the latches seemed pretty straightforward.

 

- Gus

Edited October 19, 2007 by Gus_Smedstad

[mjpsfla 0]

I have almost exactly the same set-up as you including lens selections. The only difference is mine is an XTi instead of XT. I also agree with the previous responses and never let time be a factor is setting up my equipment. I decide that day what lens I want and stick with it for the entire day. I can see situations where I may want to make a change (doing a night dive), but would always make sure everything is thoroughly rinsed and dried before attempting to open up the housing. This is especially true with the 10-22mm lens, as you have already pointed out that you need to place it in the housing before you attach the lens. Very tricky on a rocking boat with all kinds of salty wetness everywhere.

 

Best wishes

 

Michael

[ralphy 1]

Regarding drying out the housing, I've started using one of those travelling/camping towels - the super-absorbent ones - and it gets a lot more water off of the housing than conventional towels. Also the same towel, slightly dampened, makes a great non-slip surface on the table top for keeping your stuff from flying off the table in swell.

Edited October 21, 2007 by ralphy