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NWDiver

Super Macro 105VR+1.4Tele+MacroMate Doubler

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So played with the following this weekend D200+105VR+1.4Tele+MacroMate. Not sure if this qualifies as "SuperMacro". The 105VR + 1.4tele focused fairly well with slow subjects in low light. With the doubler on it was a challenge to get focus. I was basically just moving the camera in and out to try to get a shot. Only 1 in about 7 were in focus mainly operator error.

 

Settings: Full Nudi was 105VR+1.4Tel+Subtronic Novas on Full, 1/50 f29

Nudi Face 105+1.4+Subtronic Novas on 1/2, 1/50 f22

Nudi Rhinophore 105+1.4+MacroMate doubler+Subtronics on Full, 1/50 f40

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I think super-macro is anything greater than 1 to 1 magnification...i also think at this level of magnification, rocking in and out is how people get the shot.

 

so is the last shot full frame, or cropped? how big is this nudie about?

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None of these shots are cropped or sharpened. This nudi was good size, maybe 2 1/2". The full body shot was taken from about +2ft away and the Rhinophore from about 1ft.

 

Here are two more again brightness and contrast are the only changes.

 

Rhinophore D200+105VR+1.4tele+MacroMate, 1/50-f40-ISO100 Subtronic Novas on full

Gills Same as above 1/50-f25-ISO100

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the 2nd rhino shot (shot #4) looks great! much more detail than one normally gets with just a 105mm

 

I'd to see more ultra-closeups like that one.. gorgonian and/or bryozoan polyps and small shrimp would probably make great subjects, as would very small nudies...the 1st 2 photos look like shots that could have been taken with just the 105 by itself..

 

keep on posting

 

scott

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How do you shoot 1/50? I cannot seem to hold the camera still that slow to get such fine detail. Are you setting the camera down to take the picture? Is it weighted or anything to keep it still? Great detail by the way!

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For these shots I have to find a spot I can knell without hurting anything. The Nova's battery is actually an arm segment and the system was very negative, almost impossible to shoot one handed. So I added Stix floatation arms: http://www.4gdphoto.com/catalog/index.php?...nuuune34kqpcll7 and it is much lighter underwater but still fairly negative. Now Stix has added the port floatation segments and I might have to pick one of those up (thanks Eric for the DEMA coverage). With a little more fine tuning I think you could shoot this with just one finger on the reef and one hand on the camera. But for me the reality is there will be a lot of out of focus shots when using the 1.4tele+Doubler.

 

Shot of setup

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Edited by NWDiver

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How do you shoot 1/50? I cannot seem to hold the camera still that slow to get such fine detail. Are you setting the camera down to take the picture? Is it weighted or anything to keep it still? Great detail by the way!

 

the water is not that bright in seattle, I'm guessing :)

 

so I'd imagine at the high F-stops he's shooting at (F25, F40), there is very little ambient light coming through.. so whether he shoots at 1/50th, or 1/200th, or 1/1000th, I don't think it will make a difference.. all the light is coming from the strobe which freezes the action at speeds of 1/2000th or faster, depending on the strobe.. he just has to keep the subject within the small DOF, which is the hard part

 

scott

Edited by sgietler

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