Worst, Better, Best DSLR Housing Brands?

[TylerMoore 0]

I've been shooting underwater with my nikonos v and sb105 for a while, and I decided to sell a lens of mine plus pitch in a little extra to get an underwater housing for my 20D. I'm really excited about actually being able to shoot more than 36 frames when underwater, but there are SO MANY underwater housing brands I'm swamped by them.

 

Is there a standard for which brands are better? My budget is probably $2000 tops for a used housing and at least one port. I like the ikelite housings that I've seen because they are rated so deep, have ettl, and seem to have simple to use functions.

 

Are there key features that I should definately make sure to look for in a housing, and ports later?

 

 

 

Thanks a lot guys, you've all been so helpful on here.

[ce4jesus 1]

Personally I don't think you can go wrong with the ikelite. They are built for using their strobes but that's not a bad thing. Most housings have been designed with the idea of using a particular kind of strobe. Ikelite is amechanical housing (no internal electronics). Ikelites support is also considered among the best. Lexicon housings also have the advantage of seeing a leak should one occur. I would also take a peak around at the used markets as many folks are upgrading to the D40 and dumping their used housings. BTW, I believe that Fantasea also makes a clear lexicon housing that's rated to 200ft.

Edited November 25, 2007 by ce4jesus

[sgietler 1]

most people that I know in the US use ikelite, S&S, aquatica, subal or nexus.

 

its very rare that you meet someone that's not happy with their housing. people always seem to like the housing they have.

 

sync cords, zoom rings, port covers, additional ports, focus rings all cost a lot, make sure you figure out what you need and add up the total cost.

 

you should be able to get a new ike housing + port for under $2000, or a used housing + new port from the other manufacturers for under $2000.

 

its also important to know exactly which camera you are going to use, sometime manafacturer A makes a great housing for camera X, but not so great for camera Y. usually these comments will come from dealers off-the-record, not on-line. I'm not familiar with the 20d housings.

 

 

hope this helps a little

scott

Edited November 25, 2007 by sgietler

[AndyBarker 6]

HI,

I don't think that their is a better or worse housing as their are pro's & con's

for all housings. Today most if not all do the job to which they are intented to do,

So its a matter of seeing which fits your budget, as its not just about housings but

all of the other items you need as well, ports/ strobes/arms/ veiwfinders/ etc.

Quite a long list & all very expensive, good luck in what very housing/ ports etc

you get just get in to the water & get shooting.

 

Andy

[TylerMoore 0]

Thanks for all the info guys.

 

Is there any reason why ikelite housings are so much cheaper than subal and sea&sea? are there specific differences?

 

 

Also, will any housing allow me to use my sb105 flash with it? and... Does anyboy know if any of the ikelite wide angle ports will fit a sigma 18-55mm lens?

 

Thanks

[Phylo 0]

I think the price difference has allot to do with the material's as well as the quantity of housings Ikelite makes. I have an ikelite 20d setup and absolutely love it, with only a couple of exceptions, I would love it to be rated to 300' and as far as housings go, its kinda bulky. But you have access to all the controls on the camera and ikelite support is great!

 

You can use your sb105, you will just not get ttl and you need to make sure you get an ikelite to nikonos cable.

 

I would hit ebay or maybe luck into one here on the list.. I paid less than $200 for the housing, 2 ds50's the 8"dome, 6"dome and the port for the 50mm macro lens with the pelican case.

 

Phil

Edited November 26, 2007 by Phylo

[scorpio_fish 5]

Thanks for all the info guys.

 

Is there any reason why ikelite housings are so much cheaper than subal and sea&sea? are there specific differences?

 

Thanks

 

Quote from The Graduate, "Plastics, my boy, plastics."

 

Subal and Seacam are Austrian made and cater to the highest end of the market. If you have no budget limits, these will make you very happy.

 

Sea & Sea, Nexus and Aquatica are very closely priced and are quite similar in features and ergonomics. If you have a budget and can afford one of these, then I recommend you choose one of these brands.

 

If you can't afford any of the above brands, then get an Ikelite. It provides the best value of any housing, but does have a few negatives. I think one of the big negatives in yesteryear was the dome port performance. Now with the 8" dome is available, it is not so much a negative.

 

Final words, buy any of the above, shoot and be happy.

[rtrski 20]

They are built for using their strobes but that's not a bad thing. Most housings have been designed with the idea of using a particular kind of strobe. Ikelite is amechanical housing (no internal electronics).

 

I understand what you meant that Ike housings are designed to work with Ike's strobes, but not the 'no electronics' part. Don't pretty much all current Ike DSLR housings come with their iTTL circuitry bulkhead adapter nowadays, which involves an internal electrical signal conversion from the camera's native TTL approach to Ike's, as well as the setting options for TTL/manual at the housing level? From the webpage, http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/explain1.html , Ikelite even comments that this is their intention:

 

We deciphered eTTL for the Canon digital Rebel and 10-D only to find eTTL was superseded by eTTL2 for the newer 20-D Canon. We got this deciphered only to find it did not operate with the Canon G-6 model. Understanding this transition will explain why we believe conversion circuits must be part of the housing [emphasis added], not part of the strobe. We are able to tweak each housing to satisfy the idiosyncrasies of that particular camera.

 

Like I said, I think I know what you meant with the first sentence, but wanted to clarify for the OP. By 'no electronics' were you referring to the fact that all the camera controls are mechanical actuation?

[Cerianthus 55]

rtrski is right about the ttl conversion circuitry. Ikelite has that in it's housings.

 

Just a few observations±

 

I think the reason(s) they are cheaper is the material used± Not only cheaper to buy, but once you have acquired the right tools also easier to work on, especially at large volumes.

 

my 20D ikelite housing is not nearly as bulky as the old MD sized housing. But at least that was completely neutral underwater.

 

Ikelite make a few housing sizes, and then adjust the details in the housing to fit the camera (be it controls or TTL circuitry), rather then starting each housing from scratch.

[TylerMoore 0]

rtrski is right about the ttl conversion circuitry. Ikelite has that in it's housings.

 

Just a few observations±

 

I think the reason(s) they are cheaper is the material used± Not only cheaper to buy, but once you have acquired the right tools also easier to work on, especially at large volumes.

 

my 20D ikelite housing is not nearly as bulky as the old MD sized housing. But at least that was completely neutral underwater.

 

Ikelite make a few housing sizes, and then adjust the details in the housing to fit the camera (be it controls or TTL circuitry), rather then starting each housing from scratch.

 

okay, so with an ikelite housing, could i get ttl or e-ttl with flashes that arn't ikelite? what would my choices be?

[Viz'art 24]

No, their system is designed to work with their flash, and it works very good and is very stable, it's the one I use on my Aquatica and i'm quite happy with the result, also remember that its really only usefull for macro, in W.A. ttl really pukes :-)

[DesertEagle 2]

Are there any industry numbers on who sells the most housings?

 

My guess is that Ikelite's housings are less expensive because:

 

1. Ikelite sells more housings, reducing the cost per unit

2. Acrylic is less expensive to mold than aluminum

 

Fantasea housings sell for about $1000. They come with a standard Nikonos 5-pin connection. Port selection is limited.

 

Ike is slightly more expensive. Lots of port options.

 

Some of the Aquatica models can be had for under $2000. For an aluminum housing, that's very inexpensive. I've got an old Aquatica 80 from the Nikon 8008 film days. It still works brilliantly, even though it's now used as a decoration in my living room.

[TheRealDrew 0]

Some of the Aquatica models can be had for under $2000. For an aluminum housing, that's very inexpensive. I've got an old Aquatica 80 from the Nikon 8008 film days. It still works brilliantly, even though it's now used as a decoration in my living room.

 

 

B&H had the Aquatica housing for the D40/D40X for awhile at about $1350, but it is now $1500 or so, which is still a great deal if the housing is like their other housings.

[stever 0]

i like my Aquatica housing for the 20D, a few niggles, but it's substantial, neutrally bouyant, and the controls are pretty good

 

on the other hand, i'd really like to have ttl flash, and if Ikelite can really deliver it would be a deciding factor

[Gwangi 0]

HI,

 

FYI. There is a listing on ebay for a used ikelite 20D housing...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ikelite-underwater-hou...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Just to let you know... I have noting to do with the seller...

[TylerMoore 0]

Thanks guys. I think that I've made up my mind on getting an ikelite housing.

 

And i did see that ebay listing, thanks.

 

Now that i'll probably get an ikelite housing, what is a decent flash that doesn't cost $800? Is there anything good for around 200-300? Could i use my sb105 as a second flash, would anybody recommend that?

[vkalia 1]

on the other hand, i'd really like to have ttl flash, and if Ikelite can really deliver it would be a deciding factor

 

Heinrichs TTL board and Inon Z240s gives you TTL on the Aquatica. Get it installed at a third-party location (in my neck of the woods, that means Scubacam in Singapore).

 

Vandit