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Canon 40D lens Options

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All - Have purchased a Canon 40D to replaced my drowned CZ5060. Have been using with a Canon 17-85 lens topside with good results as we all wait for the housings to be released. Personally I have my eye on the Aquatica... but we'll see. Now looking for advice on two specific lens categories (trying to spread out the cash bleed....) wide angle and macro.

 

Advice and counsel much appreciated!!

 

thanks,

 

r

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Wideangle - Sigma 10-20 (Unless you have an Ikelite housing, in which case the Tokina 12-24)

 

Macro: Canon 60mm EFS

 

Cheers

James

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Tokina 10-17 fisheye

Canon 100mm macro*

 

*the 60mm macro will be more flexible and easier to use, but if you're into small stuff, a 100mm and possibly a diopter in the future would be nice.

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After using the Canon 20D for a couple years, I have settled on the following:

 

Tokina 10-17

Sigma 28-70

Canon 100

+ Woody diopter to use with the 28-70 (at 70) and the 100 mm lens.

 

I have tried using the Canon 17-85 lens underwater without much luck. It is a great topside lens but hard to focus u/w.

 

The Sigma 28-70 is the f2.8 lens and it focuses very fast. I enjoy using it so much, I no longer carry the 60 mm.

 

TomC

:)

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I just ordered my 40D, and I was going to come here and start a thread about what lens I should use with it underwater. But here is my answer in a thread already started.

 

I think I'm going to like it here.

 

Would be interested in hearing any and all exeriences with the housings and strobes available, as I will be deciding on these in the next few months, since I already know what lenses to pick up.

 

Thanks!

 

Duane

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Welcome Duane and enjoy the 40D... I've been shooting the 40D topside for a few months now (upgraded from a 400D) and really looking fwd to housing it as well. There have been a number of threads already and Eric Cheng's DEMA reports which show some of the new 40D housing that are coming early next month (Ikelite is already available).

 

Personally, I will probably be leaning towards the Sea&Sea as I've got plenty of ports/domes/ extensions/ focus rings from my previous housing. Although the Seatool 40D housing could be tempting if their port adapter works well with the S&S ports. In terms of other Alu housings, Nexus also is planning to roll out a 40D housing. If your budget is less, consider the Ikelites - Proven design, big user base, good service, good number of lenses supported, and it's out already... :)

 

Other issues that could sway me to leave S&S is how the other housings incorporate 3rd party viewfinders like the Inon 45 degree and newly released straight viewfinder (Nexus and I suspect Seatool would probably support these).

 

edit: The alu 40D housings (body only/ no ports) will probably cost around $3K vs $1,400 for an Ikelite. Something to consider

Edited by pakman

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Pakman just about covered it. I'm also looking at the new Subal. They are going to start shipping in Mid Dec. and the new Hugyfot housing which is already released. At least you can order one. Good luck with the 40D. I love mine.

 

Welcome

Steve

Edited by williamshs

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Good information....unfortunately with the new purchase of the 40D and lenses, money will be something to consider. It does help that I was able to sell some older video gear as I am upgrading everything. I've checked out the Ikelite at the site, and I'm considering it given the fact that I'm no pro to be sure, and I don't get to use this stuff nearly as much as I would like.

 

I did have a question about live view. I was able to play with a 40D in Circuit City, along with an Oly 510. The 40D didn't have nearly the shutter lag that the Oly had when using live view, but from what I have read that's because it doesn't flip the mirror down to check focus and exposure like the Oly does. Also (again from what I have read) you can use auto focus as long as you push the focus/exposure lock button instead of pushing the shutter button down halfway. Otherwise, it's manual focus, and of course I have no idea if any housings support manual focus.

 

Thanks again guys, this is a great site.

 

Duane

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i've been using a 20D in aquatica housing and 17-85 - don't think it's as bad as a number of posts indicate. needs a +2 diopter with macro port, but works with a flat port (no diopter) as well down to about 24mm where it goes away on the sides

 

autofocus of the 100 macro is so frustrating that i'm getting the 60

 

i plan to use my Canon 10-22 more - based on the lens tests i've seen and the performance of mine, don't see why any other rectilinear would be better (although cheaper) - probably a housing-zoom ring compatibility decision ---- and whether a Tamron 10-17 fisheye suites your needs/style better

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I did have a question about live view. I was able to play with a 40D in Circuit City, along with an Oly 510. The 40D didn't have nearly the shutter lag that the Oly had when using live view, but from what I have read that's because it doesn't flip the mirror down to check focus and exposure like the Oly does. Also (again from what I have read) you can use auto focus as long as you push the focus/exposure lock button instead of pushing the shutter button down halfway. Otherwise, it's manual focus, and of course I have no idea if any housings support manual focus.

 

Thanks again guys, this is a great site.

 

Duane

 

 

 

Duane, the mirror does drop for an instance on the 40D in order for it to AF in liveview and you lose the LCD view for that split second. Doesn't sound so bad on land, especially if you're using a tripod, but in water, it would be hit or miss on macro shots. Another thing to consider is that when your in liveview, the sensor may get hot and the image quality may deteriorate. I believe the camera will alert you with a warning when it gets to that stage and will shutdown live view if the internal temp increases too much.

 

 

 

As for manual focus, most housing will offer this (whether with focus knobs on the housing itself or on the port). With USM lenses, it's nice to be able to overide the lens AF to tweak the focus.

 

 

 

Stever - yes the 100mm macro AF can be frustrating, especially compared to 60mm, but try using a good focus light.

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Here is my selection of lenses used on a Canon 40D in an Ikelite housing (originally used on 20D in Ike housing).

 

10-22 Canon: can’t beat the close focus on this lens

18-50 Sigma: can use with or without a +4 diopter as this is a close focusing lens – this is my preferred “scout lens†as it can handle a wide variety of subjects. (I have been using the 3.5-5.6 “cheap†lens and like it so much I just ordered the Sigma 18-50 2.8 macro)

60 Canon macro: Fast and sure focusing, of course this is equivalent to the 100 macro on film cameras, so it feels very natural.

100 Canon macro: Not so fast and sure to autofocus but great for real small stuff. Also, I have noticed that the low light focus with this lens is noticeably better with the 40D vs the 20D body. Must be due to the more sensitive autofocus sensors on the 40D. I also use a Fisheye focus light if ambient light is not bright.

 

I have used live view underwater without autofocus and I think it can work well in several ways:

- Prefocus on a stationary macro subject in standard mode, then hit live view and zoom magnification on LCD and move the camera in/out until it looks sharp.

- Use manual focus – all the current Canon lenses have manual focus override that works very smoothly, no switches to throw (assuming you put a focus sleeve on the lens!).

- For wide angle with wide lens, could pre-focus at “sweet spot†distance, really stop down to maximize depth of field and then not worry about focus.

 

Having said that about live view – I doubt I will every use it for more than a small fraction of my photos. I have an SLR because I prefer to compose through the view finder…

 

Mike

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Absolutely great information here! I have a couple months or so to decide on a housing, but I know for sure already the lenses I will be picking up.

 

In the spring I will be practicing with my new rig at a local lake that is pretty much for divers only. In 15 years of diving I'm looking forward to this year a little more than most of the previous past few years, and it's great to have all this info before plunking down my hard earned money!

 

Love the stuff about live view, can't wait for my 40D to get here.

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I'm moving from video into still photos, so I have some questions on the fundamentals.

 

I gather that IS is not needed underwater since everything I do will involve a strobe. I also am working on the assumption that fast lenses are not needed for the actual exposure, (again due to the stobe) but faster lenses still retain the improved auto-focus performance we enjoy topside, correct? :)

 

Speaking of strobes, are the strobes currently available able to keep up with the 6 plus fps of my 40D? If not, what can I expect from these strobes, and what do I get for my money by going for the higher priced models over the lower priced ones. (I'm looking at the Ikes).

 

Also, I have to assume that focus assist lights have got to be well woth the RELATIVELY modest expense.

 

Thanks!

 

Duane

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Duane,

 

The Ikelite DS125 can fire 8 frames per second at 1/8th power. It should be able to keep up with the 40D There are VERY FEW instances that I can think of that you'll want to shoot like that though.

 

Cheers

James

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Duane,

 

The Ikelite DS125 can fire 8 frames per second at 1/8th power. It should be able to keep up with the 40D There are VERY FEW instances that I can think of that you'll want to shoot like that though.

 

Cheers

James

 

Thanks for the info James, one of the things I liked about video was being able to select the frame I want while diving with sharks etc. but of course the images were unacceptable. But I see your point, 6 fps would be overkill.

 

So I see you have 2 strobes. Seeing as how one of the Ikes is about half as much as the other, would it be better to go woth 2 of the cheaper models, or 1 of the more expensive. I croute of 1 of the more expensive and save my pennies for another one down the line, just trying to get an idea of what that would get me in terms of real world use.

 

Thanks,

Duane

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Hi,

 

I have all 3 of the Ikelite strobe types.

 

The DS200's are a bit big to maneuver into tight spots, so I use them for WA only. The DS51's are good for macro but I wouldn't use them for wideangle.

 

Ikelite DS125's are good for both macro and wideangle - I like them as general purpose strobes.

 

Cheers

James

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All -

 

Some great data in reposnse to my initial question. Many thanks to all. Other opinions and suggestions certainly welcome.

 

robb

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Yes....this information has been has helped me more than you guys probably realize.

 

I don't mind doing my own homework, but information like this is only found from other divers.

 

Helped a lot....thanks!

 

 

Duane

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Just joined wetpixel, and already loving the forum. Got my 40d in Sept., my first dslr. Went to Africa end of Sept. and based on my topside experience so far the 40d with the mods to the autofocus system is far more sensitive and quicker to lock in than my EOS 3's which I used in similar situations last year on safari.

 

This thread is esp. great since I returned from the Philippines last eve. after a week's diving there with my trusty Nikonos 5 with 15 mm and ext tubes. Seemed like I was always wanting to take pix of nudibranchs when I had my wide angle, or a cuttlefish would be staring me in the eye when I had my macro setup. Also, except for nudibranchs, other critters just don't seem to like to be "framed." Can't blame them.

 

Sooooo, I'm really anxious to get into the 21st century with my underwater photography, and this thread has been a great help. I must admit though, I'm a bit hesitant about jumping in yet with housing, etc. for the 40d knowing that the followon to the 5d is just around the corner. Could be wrong, but it seems to me that the full size sensor is esp nice for much of the kind of photography one does underwater.

 

Also, should I just make the full switch and sell off my 105 strobes, or would they still be useful with digital?

 

Thanks again.

 

Jim

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Hi Jim,

 

They are still useful for digital shooting. You can shoot them using the manual power control knob on the strobe - I think you get 3 power settings plus adding the diffuser.

 

Cheers

James

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This thread is esp. great since I returned from the Philippines last eve. after a week's diving there with my trusty Nikonos 5 with 15 mm and ext tubes.

 

Boracay by any chance? I love it there!

 

Duane

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I'm contemplating selling my 5D w/ Aquatica housing and getting the 40D to a) put less money underwater and B) get the 14 bit color in the 40D.

 

Anyone used the 17-55 f2.8 Canon EF-S lens underwater? That seems like it would be a great compromise lens with an effective 27-88mm length.

 

I've gotten fairly comfortable shooting in manual with the DS-125 strobes on my Aquatica housing but would like the luxury of having TTL control of the strobe provided by Sea and Sea with their Canon housings. Or am I just being lazy?

 

Of course I could always spring for the huge bucks and dive with my mark III but that violates premise (a) above and would require me to actually be selling more of the photos!

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I would stick w/ the 5D personally. But that's my opinion

 

Cheers

James

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Tony,

 

A few wedding photographer friends are buying the 40D, mainly for the "Highlight Tone" feature.

 

Most already shoot a Canon 5D and are selling their 30D units, and keeping the super capable 5D as the main camera, though.

 

IF, and it's a big IF, I was looking to house a totally new Canon dSLR, the 40D would be it for me.....I could buy 2 bodies, have great new features and money left for lenses and travel :blush:

 

Food for thought......

 

dhaas

post-244-1197992544_thumb.jpg

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