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Hi Adam, I had the crack on the A640 before it got wet :). Anyway it is a great thing to have and as the crack is kept on the card there is no damage to the cameras firmware (as far as I am aware). A lot of people i meet have/do use it as it just gives you a bit more flexibility on several factors. The RAW is great on a compact and just gives you a little more leeway/ makes it easier to save an image, live histogram is useful so you can check exposure without having to shoot (if using natural light as you need to check your strobes light if using one). I also found that the battery indicator was a good feature as well. If you don't get on with it you don't have to use it.

 

Good luck with it

 

Tristan

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They work great and they cause no damage to the camera - your warranty is fine ... no worries there.

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I use the one for A570 IS, and it works fine. There is a new release, so make sure to get the latest one. There are two versions, 101e and 101a. Try both, one will work, one won't. (It depends on the firmware version that your camera has). The hack does not have some of the features that the other models have, but for simply shooting Raw (I shoot on Manual)it works great. Remember not to use Auto. You can use A,S, Manual or P.

 

Cheers,

Marli

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Also has .DNG so you don't have to reconvert. Just straight to Photoshop CS4.

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yup, there is no affect on the firmware. you can simply turn off and on the camera and its back to its original state. there is a way to have the chdk automatically load when you turn on the camera, but i havent looked into it.

 

as Tjsnapper has said, some of the most useful features are the RAW, battery indicator, live histograms, overriding shutter and aperture speeds, and some of the programs that people have created (motion detectors, burst shots, etc)

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Thanks guys for all that info.

 

So i'm assuming that the hack only works in the M, AV, TV & P modes and not in Auto. Do any of the Hacks work in Auto, namely battery indicator?? Does the RAW Hack work in the SCN mode?? As I'm still only trying to master the basics, I do tend to use the SCN mode in Underwater. This is only due to the fact that due to work commitments, I don't get underwater near as much as I would like to improve my skills.

 

I think I read somewhere that using this hack the camera actually saves your image twice, once as a RAW image and also as a JPEG, is this correct? Currently I'm using a couple of 2GB cards but not sure if this is now going to be enough if I choose to use the hack.

 

I'm also assuming that I need later versions of Photoshop to be able to edit pics whilst using this HACK and not Photoshop 7 and Photoshop Elements that I'm currently using. (I can hear the moans already and know I need to seriously update).

 

I know I should just download the Hack and try for myself, but asking questions to those who have used it just makes things so much easier. All information provided is greatly appreciated.

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Have just been looking on the CHDK downloads site. I was going to download the file for my 570IS but now have another question. I know I need to download both the 1.00E and the 1.01A versions and work out which version works with my firmware, but is it best to use the Complete or Small download?? Just something else to confuse me.

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After alot of research between DSLR and compact P/S cameras for shooting while freediving (as well as looking at how much pocket book trauma I could endure), I just purchased the Canon A570IS and will be getting the housing shortly. The next step is to determine which lens to go with - the UFL-165AD or the UWL-105AD. Not sure, although the sheer size of the dome on the 165 has me impressed to say the least.

 

The types of content I want to be shooting will be mainly u/w landscapes, other freedivers - both close up and further away to incorporate the environment and larger marine life (manatees, Whale sharks, etc). Does anyone have images they have shot with either or both of these lenses, and have a preference loosely based around my requirements?

 

Thanks

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Have just been looking on the CHDK downloads site. I was going to download the file for my 570IS but now have another question. I know I need to download both the 1.00E and the 1.01A versions and work out which version works with my firmware, but is it best to use the Complete or Small download?? Just something else to confuse me.

All that info including creation of a dummy file to find out which firmware you need is on the CHDK website. You'll have to sift through it.

 

After alot of research between DSLR and compact P/S cameras for shooting while freediving (as well as looking at how much pocket book trauma I could endure), I just purchased the Canon A570IS and will be getting the housing shortly. The next step is to determine which lens to go with - the UFL-165AD or the UWL-105AD. Not sure, although the sheer size of the dome on the 165 has me impressed to say the least.

 

The types of content I want to be shooting will be mainly u/w landscapes, other freedivers - both close up and further away to incorporate the environment and larger marine life (manatees, Whale sharks, etc). Does anyone have images they have shot with either or both of these lenses, and have a preference loosely based around my requirements?

I bought the 570 for reference shots for video shoots etc. You can find a few pics I've posted somewhere on WP. 165AD is soft around the corners and not very sharp. But what do you want for a $300 add on lens, but the fisheye look is pretty cool. Check out the distortion and see if you can live with it.

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All that info including creation of a dummy file to find out which firmware you need is on the CHDK website. You'll have to sift through it.

 

 

I bought the 570 for reference shots for video shoots etc. You can find a few pics I've posted somewhere on WP. 165AD is soft around the corners and not very sharp. But what do you want for a $300 add on lens, but the fisheye look is pretty cool. Check out the distortion and see if you can live with it.

Drew - How "Soft" is soft? Just about any super wide angle lens I've seen or worked with seems to lose it at the edges - no matter well corrected it - and that goes for high end DSLR lenses behind dome ports as well. One advantage of the 105 is how small it is compared to the 165, but I guess softness is relative to ones needs.

 

I've worked with the UWL 100 from Inon on an Olympus P/S & housing and full frame images were very sharp from edge to edge - images going to publication and the editor was pretty impressed give the equipment used.

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Have just been looking on the CHDK downloads site. I was going to download the file for my 570IS but now have another question. I know I need to download both the 1.00E and the 1.01A versions and work out which version works with my firmware, but is it best to use the Complete or Small download?? Just something else to confuse me.

 

Be prepared for more confusion if you continually update the CHDK file when new features are included (like the DNG file format). Sometimes, unless you are a programmer, hacker, etc., it is difficult to figure out how to do stuff, and if it seems there is a bug, and you are simply "confused", (as the manual is never updated) and you post a bug or query, be prepared for a condescending dressing down. One must always remember that this is free, and there is no CHDK for dummies manual that includes the things you want to know to use the camera underwater.

 

Download the full version. The small one is probably just the updates. (although I'm not sure, as there is no explanation!) Download both 101a and 101e. If your camera is fairly recent purchase, try the 101a first. If it doesn't work, then try the 101e. It's not that much of a deal to try, as soon as you update the firmware, you will get a confirmation massage telling you it is loaded. Just remember to turn the camera on in playback mode, load the firmware, change it to record mode, press the direct print button until the "Alt" message appears, and then enter the menu to set the changes (like Raw mode). If you want DNG, you will need to run a script. I finally managed to figure it out, but it took a while. After all, I'm right brained, and blond. :lol:

By the way, if you are using SDHC cards, you can't make them bootable.

 

Cheers,

Marli

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Thanks Marli,

 

All this info is just getting so confusing for someone who doesn't have a head for all things technical, wondering if its worth all the trouble. Although the features of the hack are very tempting. Guess I'll just have to try it and see.

 

I bought my camera just over a year ago so guessing I'll probably need the 100e file. I'm currently using ScanDisk Ultra II 2.0GB cards, but with the price of SD cards these days I think I might even just go and get another and load the Hack on to it. Is there any specific SD card that you find works best?

Edited by adamk76

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By the way, if you are using SDHC cards, you can't make them bootable.

Yes you can....I have used a 4gb SDHC card in mine and had it boot.... have to format as FAT 16 on pc first, the instructions are in there somewhere on the website....

 

Duncan

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Drew - How "Soft" is soft? Just about any super wide angle lens I've seen or worked with seems to lose it at the edges - no matter well corrected it - and that goes for high end DSLR lenses behind dome ports as well. One advantage of the 105 is how small it is compared to the 165, but I guess softness is relative to ones needs.

 

I've worked with the UWL 100 from Inon on an Olympus P/S & housing and full frame images were very sharp from edge to edge - images going to publication and the editor was pretty impressed give the equipment used.

Like I already suggested.... go search the forums for the samples I posted with the lens and see if you can live with it. The fisheye look is nice for some shots but very distracting for others.

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Like I already suggested.... go search the forums for the samples I posted with the lens and see if you can live with it. The fisheye look is nice for some shots but very distracting for others.

Drew - Did a search for UFL-165AD but nothing came up with regards to your images - any other suggestions on search term?

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Anyone have input on the WP-DC12 housing versus the Ikelite housing for the 570??? The Ikelite seems better made and the cost isn't that much more - plus it take the 67mm threaded UWL-100 which I already own, but is it any more durable compared to the Canon made housing?

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I don't think you can go wrong with either housing. I've owned both brands and they each have their attributes. The Ikelite is certainly more robust. The Canon is smaller. With a AD mount the Canon is a nice set-up. In the end I made my decision based on size, being able to add wet lenses and the fact that I never really liked the shutter release/lever on my Ikelite (certainly a personal thing). I actually wore out the camera shutter on my old 990 in an Ikelite housing. I think I have more feel with the Canon housing. Personal preference for sure.

 

For your earlier question about wet lenses I would go with the UFL-165. The UWL-105 vignettes so you have to crop your images. I have both as well as the macro and I rarely carry the 105 any more. If you go to our Zenfolio site you can look at our latest Bonaire file (2008) and see reef scene images shot with 165.

 

You should get good results with this camera. As discussed earlier in the thread the recycle time when using the internal flash isn't great but shooting available light resolves that issue. My 570 IS, housing, AD mount and lenses will be going on the market one day soon as I just pulled the trigger and purchased a Canon 450D. I plan on putting the new camera in a S & S RDX housing before our next trip (Sep 2009) back to Bonaire.

 

Good luck!

 

Jeff

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Jeff - so if I understand you response - you suggest the Canon housing with the WP-DC12 Inon adapter and the 165 lens - correct? I'm more concerned about size and will rarely dive below 20 meters while freediving so I should have plenty of ambient light when shooting in clearer waters. I plan on beginning my shooting with Manatee's in Florida, freediver images and will work towards shooting larger pelagics as I get comfortable with the setup.

 

Thanks

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Cliff, Yes that is what I would do. In the future you could put a small tray/handle or other type configuration on it so you could have a wet mate lens holder. Remember you will have to burp the lens underwater to remove air captured between the AD mount and lens.

 

Good luck!

 

Jeff

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After following your adventures and a season now with my three 570s I finally got my Ikelite housing built up and modified for bayonet mounting of my trio of Inon AD lenses. I did most of my shooting last year with the Canon DC-12 housing with several dives to over 150 feet with no issues. I got an Ike housing however on closeout at a killer price last summer and while I did use it a couple of times the plain port just did not do it for me. Here is the result, my main shooter for the 2009 dive season:

 

DSCF0007.jpg

 

Numerous custom features incorporated. I know the little 570IS is no match for a 1,000 dollars dSLR but really, it is a fine, reliable, snappy shooter and I am very pleased with the camera and hopefully with my new, modified Ikelite based rig this season. I am also still highly pleased with the Inon D2000, that thing rocks, power, wide coverage, very easy to operate, tremendous control.

Edited by crawdad

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Thanks to everyone for all the useful info in this thread!

 

I've got an A570 and am hoping to pick up a housing for it, but I'm not ready for a strobe yet and the cheapest housing on ebay is missing the flash diffuser. I'd appreciate if anyone who knows could comment if that would make the housing useless without a strobe?

 

Much gratitude in advance if anyone has any advice for someone just starting out in UW photograpy.

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