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johnspierce

Paranoid with new 8" dome on Ike

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Hello,

 

I have a Nikon D70s with a Sigma 17-70mm and a Ikelite housing. I bought the 8" dome for it and have been playing with it around the house. First thing was getting the zoom ring nice and snug and checking that out. All is well; the pics I take around the house are great with this combo. No vignetting, seems nice and sharp at either end of the zoom scale.

 

However.

 

As I was sitting here at my desk just holding it and looking at the setup, I notice the dome is so heavy if you slowly point the lens at the ceiling and then point it at the floor, the whole dome and extension port visibly "moves" ever so slightly in it's slot. This concerns me. I am using the o-ring that came with the dome and extension port and both of the spring-loaded "wings" are in the down and locked position.

 

8inchport.jpg

 

It seems to me this would be a flood waiting to happen. I guess the o-ring might still be sealed properly. I took the camera out of the housing and looked at the seal from the inside and it seems good. Now, it's not like "flopping around", but it does move a millimeter or two.

 

I'm wondering if any of you take the extra measure of duct taping your lens in place after mounting just to ensure it doesn't flex.

 

Maybe I'm worrying about nothing, I don't know. Soon I'll take the outfit in the swimming pool without the camera and see what's up.

 

thanks,

John

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From your description sounds completely normal to me. But it never hurts to test it out in the pool.

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Yes test it if you can but don't forget the pressure of the water the second you go down will also push it in place and keep it there.

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Yes test it if you can but don't forget the pressure of the water the second you go down will also push it in place and keep it there.

 

 

Sounds normal to me too. The ikelite port is a compression fitting. Once the water pushes on it it compresses the O-ring. Always test a new housing in the pool without a camera. Be sure both port locks are snapped closed and that the O-ring is well lubricated. Even on the surface the port seals perfectly. If the port is in and locked and the O-ring isn't twisted (well lubricated) and there is nothing obstructing the O-ring (hair sand etc.) the port will not leak.

 

I'll agree its not the positive feel that you might think of with a threaded port. But it works and works well. So get in the pool and test it you'll see.

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Not a problem - get it in the water!

 

Paul C

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Well... first, I must say this is the way I have flooded twice my Ikelite rig.

 

So, I have gained a little bit of experience about it, as since the sencond time I have dived with it quite a few times in rough conditions (Maldives channels in strong current, for example) without a problem.

 

I tighten the screws of the port locks until they can just slide from one position two another, with just a little bit of resistance. If you do it like this, it works ok with the shorter and loger dome bodies. In this position, the dome moves. It has about 1mm of movement at the dome sides, which is ok.

 

The problem why I have flooded the rig a couple of times was because I left those screws a bit more loose, and even with the pressure, the dome could move enought to make the o-ring not to seal the port.

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Yes, you can tighten the screws on the locks and get a slightly tighter fit. Mine has a little bit of wiggle room, but the water pressure presses the port on for a tighter seal. Make sure the little plastic locks click down when you close them. They should slide in then lock down. One of mine is a bit tricky and needs help pushing to the down position.

 

Still, a nicer system than my old Aquatica because you at least have a lock over the port. I get nervous taking it in the surf, but no problems so far...

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That's how it's supposed to be. Had the 8" Ike dome since it first came out on the market and have dove with it weekly since. Never had any failures. Sounds totally normal. The only problem I have ever had wit Ikelite is the C rings (washers) at the inside of the controls breaking. I would highly recommed checking the integrity of those really very carefully prior to every dive and having some spare ones on hand. But as for the port locks, that is not a worry....

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hey, I would lke to know if anyone had problems dismantling the dome assembly frm the wide extension (#5510.10). I am seriously utilising every single inch of my muscles and the two just dont come off. Or did I tightened it too much ?? Thxs for the help.

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hey, I would lke to know if anyone had problems dismantling the dome assembly frm the wide extension (#5510.10).

 

On my last trip I had it assembled for two weeks or so, and it was very tight. I managed - just - without strap wrench or similar. Next time I'll use bit more lubricant when assembling.

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hey, I would lke to know if anyone had problems dismantling the dome assembly frm the wide extension (#5510.10). I am seriously utilising every single inch of my muscles and the two just dont come off. Or did I tightened it too much ?? Thxs for the help.

Just get a strap wrench like this ones:

 

c69a_1.JPG

 

If you don't find them elsewere there are lots of cheap ones on ebay (less than $10 incl. shipping).

 

Even if you use lubricant on the thread it is too hard to unthread the bodies without the wrench.

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Just get a strap wrench like this ones:

 

If you don't find them elsewere there are lots of cheap ones on ebay (less than $10 incl. shipping).

 

Even if you use lubricant on the thread it is too hard to unthread the bodies without the wrench.

 

thxs guys ... wld definitely try that out ....

Edited by bighead

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Just get a strap wrench like this ones:

 

c69a_1.JPG

 

If you don't find them elsewere there are lots of cheap ones on ebay (less than $10 incl. shipping).

 

Even if you use lubricant on the thread it is too hard to unthread the bodies without the wrench.

 

 

Wonderful suggestion. Thank you

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Wonderful suggestion. Thank you

 

just some "stupid" questions ... do u strap round the 8" dome assy or the 5510.10 ? Which way is it easier ?? And is the strap material rubber or leather ??

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Use the strap around the extension, and hold on to the dome by the shade (at least that's how I do it).

 

The strap is heavyweight rubber. You need to loosen it and flip the wrench over to reverse between loosening and tightening modes. Be careful you have lubed your o-ring - the strap wrench gives you so much better leverage it's very tempting to overtighten, but its really not necessary.

 

No need to go to ebay - any local car parts store should have one of these. It's basically the same thing used to remove oil filters (don't get the toothed metal band one - that one would not be pleasant to the extension! :D ).

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.... Use the strap around the extension, and hold on to the dome by the shade (at least that's how I do it).

 

Really ?! I must have mis-understand something. The shade I have had 4 hex screws just screw into the groove enough that it doesn't come off but the shade is very loose, can freely turn and turn and turn. How can we grab it ? When I took the extension port out, I took the shade off and then had it sit on a rubber mat so it doesn't slide and yes with good force, it come off.

 

I also agree the 2 lock nuts are very scarly. I post the question before and everyone said no worries. And yes, the dome come can wiggle up and down a little bit. So far no leak yet but very scarly and I think one day it will leak ! With the shorter extension ring (for the 10-17), it locks-in a little bit more initeresting, the lock nut are in fasten position first and then the port put into position, then push in and a 1/2 turn slide into position so it wont' come off. I actually like that better but will see since it won't stop me from turning the port while in water ....

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Well I got my dome and shade used...I think the prior owner really screwed the dome shade on...tight. It doesn't move relative to the dome itself, at all. I actually tried to remove it to polish the dome and, well, couldn't. So I'm just pretending that's not a problem.... :D

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