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TomStack

Ikelite iTTL Adaptor for Nikon digital SLR

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Hi All,

 

Since I'm receiving mixed feedback on how well the Ikelite TTL adaptor works, I would really

appreciate your comments and experiences.

 

The Ikelite iTTL Adaptor link is here:

 

http://www.ikelite.com/web_two/ittl_adapter.html

 

Please list the following:

 

Your Nikon camera model

Bulkhead on your housing (Nikonos or Ikelite)

Strobe(s) model

Ikelite strobe cord used

Housing brand

 

As always, thank you Wetpixelers for sharing your experience, knowledge and information!

 

Best,

 

Tom Stack

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Still trying to figure out when I take it off of manual & switch to TTL. Part of the problem is the lack of "leisurely" dives to play with it. Heading to Bonaire in a few weeks where the schedule is more laid back rather than the rush of cattle boats.

 

TTL doesn't yet give me the control I want when shooting macro or close focus wide angle, but I suspect it would be useful for those one in a million "waiting for the mermaid" shots where you don't know when it's gonna happen. (at least that's how I justified to cost to myself) The subjects still need to be at the right distance or you still end up with correctly exposed particles in the water.

 

I'm trying not to start thinking of TTL as "Auto" mode as I know there must be a good use for it. It seems like a viable weapon in the arsenal, I just need to learn how to fire it.

 

I keep the ttl cord on the camera and carry my old dual sync as a spare. One bulkhead is setup for the non-ttl cord and one is set up for ttl. They can also be switched by moving the connector on the circuit board in the housing. I love Ikelite but twisting that ttl switch under water seems like an invitation to disaster and just gives me the willies.

 

Andy

 

D300 Nikonos bulkhead, 2xDS125, Ikelite Dual TTL cord, Subal ND20 (modified to fit the D300)

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I have a D2X in a Subal housing with Ike synch sockets. I use DS125 strobes.

 

The Ike ttl converter works fine. Like any TTL shooting you have use your exposure compensation button. Though for most neutral colored subjects it's ttL is dead on.

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I have a D2X in a Subal housing with Ike synch sockets. I use DS125 strobes.

 

The Ike ttl converter works fine. Like any TTL shooting you have use your exposure compensation button. Though for most neutral colored subjects it's ttL is dead on.

 

Can you expand on the proper use of the ex comp button for ttl? Since a lot of the ttl shots I've seen seem to be overexposed are you saying that you should underexpose shots using the comp. button, or are you making that decision on a shot by shot basis?

 

Andy

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Yes it works.

 

Nikon D2x

 

Aquatica Housing

 

Nikonos Bulkheads

 

Blue band Ikelite digital dual sync cord (important)

 

Dual Ikelite Sunstrobe 200's upgrade to the latest DS standard

 

Am I happy with it? Yes

 

Would I buy it again? Yes

 

Having said all that, a few impressions and observations.

 

You should still shoot like you are in manual mode with respect to observing proper flash / subject distance.

 

When I use the adapter I try and shoot as I do when in manual mode and use the adapter to “fine tune†a more exact exposure. I find I get my best exposures this way.

 

I find the adapter has a certain power/distance/fstop range ( for any given fstop) within which it can function and will not save you if you grossly miscalculate your basic exposure. I make my best estimation of the exposure needed for a particular instance and use the adapter to “finesse†the exposure by cutting back or extending the flash exposure in small doses.

 

I prefer to shoot with Shutter priority exposure mode as it lets me sync the shutter at a 250th of a second instead of the 60th or 30th of a second I would get with Aperture mode.

 

The exposure produced in conjunction with the adapter seems to be more “voluminous†for lack of a better word. My histograms seem to be more broader and the tonal range seem to be “fullerâ€. This may be the reason why others are saying it overexposes by a third to half a stop and why they are dialing in minus exposure compensation. I have been tempted to do the same.

 

And finally, I do not worry about twisting the adapter between manual and auto modes underwater any more than I do when I twist any of my housing knobs or dials. I find the unit is ruggedly built and will probably stand up to years of abuse.

 

Hope that helps.

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Proofs in the pudding, or so they say...

 

 

threepipes.jpg

 

Three frames from a burst of 6 taken in less than 2 seconds as I drifted towards the pipefish and giant holothurian, so the subject distance is varying shot by shot. D200, Sea & Sea housing with nikonos bulkhead, two Ike DS51's, f20, 1/200 sec ISO 100, 105mm lens.

 

 

Yes, it works, and in the right situation (frame filling subject), it seems to work well. I don't use it that often, but when I have it has worked.

Edited by Craig Ruaux

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ttL treats every subject as if it is 18% grey. So if a subject is significantly lighter or more reflexive than grey it will over expose that subject. A very dark subject will be underexposed. Use the the exposure compensation button to compensate for that.

 

Also, depending upon your metering mode ttL will try to give your entire frame an "average" exposure. If your subject doesn't fill most of the frame then once again ttL may over or under expose your subject.

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