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Halabriel

Target Lights

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Hi all

 

Firstly, thanks to Bob for compiling the very excellent Strobe finder guide which I found enormously helpful in narrowing the strobe field.

 

I have one remaining dilemma, which has been touched upon in several places on the forum. Do you go for a strobe with a built target light, or buy the non-target version, then add a separate aiming light.

 

Financially, the non-target light strobe is cheaper, but when you add a target light and mounting bracket this set up is more expensive.

 

Artistically however it seems that you have more versatility with the separated system.

 

I have ordered an Inon 2000 type 3 which is on standby, but still have time to change my mind before the order is completed.

 

Opinions please

 

Cheers

 

Hal

Edited by Halabriel

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ideally you want a target light that is seperate from your strobes- target lights on strobes unnecissarily use battery power that is better reserved for flashes- the target lights on the market range from regular celled UW flashlights to more expensive LED and HID lights- if cost isnt an issue go for those, the light is more natural and they come with more features like beam and level controls. Most who dive with them have a means of attaching the light to either a strobe arm or a camera or housing body. Camera body and housing dealers can help you with your choices there- again you can get as sophisticated as your wallet allows and have a similar system to your strobe arm with a light attched.

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I agree that a separate focus light is what you'll want but for different reasons. The Inon Z240 has a light that has two modes. On all the time until you take a photo and then it extinguishes. Then a 7 second timer which puts the light on for 7 seconds and then it goes out. However even in this mode, I find that mine still pop on once in awhile.

The reason I use a separate focus light is your strobes are never really pointed at the subject, mostly because of backscatter or lighting up particulate between the lens and the subject. The lights on the Inon help you determine where they're aimed so they come in handy in that regard.

A focus light doesn't have to be expensive, it just has to give your camera enough light to achieve a focus. Usually when using macro lenses with diopters and wet lenses, focus is tough. I've heard some people, who like to open up their apertures on macro for shallow DOF, complain that some lights still show up in the photo. I haven't had this experience but have read it on here. There's a new light by fantasea which is flash activated (turns off when it senses a flash) that I would probably investigate if I were making a purchase today.

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I agree that a separate focus light is what you'll want but for different reasons. The Inon Z240 has a light that has two modes. On all the time until you take a photo and then it extinguishes. Then a 7 second timer which puts the light on for 7 seconds and then it goes out. However even in this mode, I find that mine still pop on once in awhile.

The reason I use a separate focus light is your strobes are never really pointed at the subject, mostly because of backscatter or lighting up particulate between the lens and the subject. The lights on the Inon help you determine where they're aimed so they come in handy in that regard.

A focus light doesn't have to be expensive, it just has to give your camera enough light to achieve a focus. Usually when using macro lenses with diopters and wet lenses, focus is tough. I've heard some people, who like to open up their apertures on macro for shallow DOF, complain that some lights still show up in the photo. I haven't had this experience but have read it on here. There's a new light by fantasea which is flash activated (turns off when it senses a flash) that I would probably investigate if I were making a purchase today.

The Fantasea Nano is a great little light. It is very battery efficient, the auto turn-off works perfectly (off for 2 seconds when the strobes fire) and it was bright enough to be my primary light when I took it for a night dive.

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Hi

 

Thanks for your input guys.

 

I think I am going to go for the Inon D2000s (which has no guide light) and a seperate focus light. I can't easily get the Fantasea Nano from here in Bermuda, so I am going with the Fisheye FIX mini LED Focus Light, which seems to be approximately the same. It has a light sensor which automatically turns off the light when your strobe fires to prevent hot spots in the image, and is marketed specifically for compact digicams.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Edited by Halabriel

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Hi

 

Thanks for your input guys.

 

I think I am going to go for the Inon D2000s (which has no guide light) and a seperate focus light. I can't easily get the Fantasea Nano from here in Bermuda, so I am going with the Fisheye FIX mini LED Focus Light, which seems to be approximately the same. It has a light sensor which automatically turns off the light when your strobe fires to prevent hot spots in the image, and is marketed specifically for compact digicams.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

 

I shoot with Ikelite DS-125 which has a modeling light. I can say the modelling light is not effective to assit the camera focus because for the most part, you don't shine the strobe directly to the subject which is what we do with the focus light. However, I do use them on night dive which make me basically has 3 lights lit up while navigating around, kind of like 2 head lights on the side and then one in the middle, really help lit up where I am going. I use a Hartenberger nano for focus light, in my opinion the brighter the better, I briefly use a UK Q-40 and throw it away quickly ! I also mounted a UK 100 Light cannon a few times, while that's pretty bright, it's way to bulky to dive with in a camera setup.

Edited by CADiver

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>> so I am going with the Fisheye FIX mini LED Focus Light, which seems to be approximately the same.

 

Looks so similar I'd say they might even be made in the same factory.

 

Works great and you can't beat the price!

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Hi Hal,

go for the external focus light, i have 2 x z-240 strobes with their own focus lights but never use them as if i point the focus light at the subject it compromises the place i want to aim my strobe to reduce backscatter,

cheers

Jez

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