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davehicks

Anyone upgrade a DS-125 battery pack?

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One of my two DS-125s runs flat much quicker than the other; and the annoying thing is I often then have no flash at all. If I charge them both and fire them full power, how many flashes should a healthy one with NiCd's give, and when should I decide an upgrade to NiMH is needed?

Cheers,

Rob

 

 

I believe the Ike site gives how many full power flashes a new strobe should provide but I doubt it is for the old style nicads. When I had a battery pack that was dying I would put it on the strobe head connected to the non-primary connection of my dual sync cable. In doing that the primary will continue to fire after the secondary (strobe connected to the cable with the red lable) dies.

 

I can squeeze about 200 photos out of my strobes but I am using TTL so am not getting a full dump every time.

 

Terry

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Just rebuilding a couple of my packs now so.

 

Bit more info for the thread.

 

O-Rings.

 

Rear one on the spindle is BS006

On the on/off control we have a 'Quad' or X-Ring BS012 size

Battery / Flash interface ring is BS236

 

O-Rings are available from a number of online suppliers but start with Polymax in the UK. Note I have not used them myself as I keep O-Rings.

 

In the UK I got batteries from Cell Pack Solutions, they show zero stock but order them anyway and they will tag them as required.

 

Paul C

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O-Rings.

 

Rear one on the spindle is BS006

On the on/off control we have a 'Quad' or X-Ring BS012 size

Battery / Flash interface ring is BS236

 

Paul,

Cheers for this. Quick question: Nitrile or Viton (or doesn't it matter)?

 

I've just ordered the batteries and charger from the states, so my mod will be happening sooner rather than later,

Rob

Edited by Cussy

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Paul,

Cheers for this. Quick question: Nitrile or Viton (or doesn't it matter)?

 

I've just ordered the batteries and charger from the states, so my mod will be happening sooner rather than later,

Rob

 

Where did you order batteries from, and what were the catalog #s?

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Where did you order batteries from, and what were the catalog #s?

 

Click the words "cell pack solutions" it is a link directly to the catalog page at £3.25 each it is a no brainer.

 

They keep chargers and stuff also - no connection to me but they are very responsive and seem keen to help.

 

Nitrile or Viton

 

Nitrile (NBR) Viton tends to be hard and stiff - don't go there for this application.

 

Paul C

Edited by PRC

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Just finishing my second pack - couple of notes - you may choose to learn from my mistakes and out takes or not.

 

When taking apart the lever that holds the pack on the back of the strobe to get to the O-Ring in there you have two choices.

 

1: Remove the nut buried in the black plastic sleeve on the inside of the pack or

 

2: Push the roll pin out of the lever and remove the shaft with the black sleeve from the inside.

 

On my first pack I got away with #1 on my second pack the nut had suffered a dose of locktite or similar and I sheered the brass thread right off the end :lol:

 

My first reaction was to re-make the whole pin in 316 but the quick and dirty fix is to bore and thread the end of the shaft and studlock a stub of M3 stainless threaded rod in there - which is what I will do tonight.

 

Watch out for the three screws holding the inside plate to the casing - one is shorter than the other two.

 

If you are making up your own cell pack use a piece of 1 1/4" dia materiel as a former - a couple of rubber bands will hold the batteries in place while you fix them. I used hot glue to first bond the batteries to each other before soldering the tags. However if you do use hot glue be careful of not using too much as the casing screws need the space between the batteries to pass by the batteries. On my second pack I did the hot glue stuff on the inside taking care not to glue the former to the batteries.

 

Those batteries are tight - if the diameter is larger than those in there (22.3mm in my case) you are in for a hell of a job.

 

Paul C

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Will take some tomorrow as I re-assemble the second pack if you like.

 

Paul C

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Some Images and a couple of new observations.

 

 

post-3386-1233327152.jpg

 

Battery Pack and former. Watch that you build the pack the 'right' way around or you will end up with the +ve and -ve terminals swapped - this will not be funny.

Yea, this is my 'old' pack that got a bit wet, the new one was built and fitted before I took the picture.

 

 

post-3386-1233327136.jpg

 

Built pack - showing location of long and short screws

 

post-3386-1233327144.jpg

 

Knob build - this is one of the finest pieces of design stupidity I have encountered for a while.

While thinking about it in the bath last night I decided that there had to be another O-Ring involved in the switch assembly.

Well here it is, BS004, under the head of the screw. Put it in dry, do not lube as it may extrude when the screw is tightened up.

I may fill behind the screw head with RTV as I can't say I trust this much at all.

 

post-3386-1233327170.jpg

 

This is the one that I sheered off and broke. Drilled and tapped M3, put in a M3 stub.

 

post-3386-1233327160.jpg

 

Build order for springs and shaft, I have left the battery case out of the shot for clarity. Essentially the battery case comes between the LHS spring and the black plastic piece that controls the 90 deg of rotation.

 

post-3386-1233327179.jpg

 

The PCB is not properly aligned yet in this shot - move it with a screwdriver then put the knob in place, I found the best way was to fit the quad ring to the knob before inserting it into the body.

 

The screws are not yet fitted which is why the back plate is at a wonky angle.

 

Be careful how the screw is tightened - not enough it will leak - too much you will strip the thread out or extrude the O-Ring bodge that is going on underneath.

 

If anyone needs the quad rings I have just ordered some spares for myself (I ordered 10).

 

Paul C

Edited by PRC

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Haha... "Wonky"...

 

Thanks for the images Paul... Might by a drowned pack from a friend to practice on before my own needs a mod/upgrade.

 

/K

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Haha... "Wonky"...

 

Yea, sorry about that - while English is my primary language it does not mean that I have mastered it yet.

 

Anyhow it's a technical term :(

 

If anyone has a drowned battery I am in the market for a 'spare'. After seeing how that switch is put together I may be needing one sooner than I think.

 

Paul C

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Just thought I would mention a couple of other things.

 

If you are just replaceing the batteries there is no need to take apart the lever that holds the pack on the back of the strobe to get to the O-Ring in there unless it is leaking.

 

I have done two of mine and have used this source for batteries. http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?Page...mp;Category=226

 

I used the 3300 batteries and even tho the site says .91 dia they actually measured .865, my old Ikelite NIMH batteries were .875 .

 

I actually used a old roll of tape as the outside diameter but think that something on the inside would be easer.

 

Great thread, just wish I would have found it before I did my two.

 

Bill Libecap

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Hey Dave

I have a question for you. Does your battery pack have a diode between the recharger plug and the battery pack? You can tell with a vom. the plug will not show any voltage when you measure it. the charger I purchased CHUN-0409ARC would not start charging the pack with the diode in place. I had to add a 1meg resistor across the diode.

 

Bill Libecap

 

 

 

 

 

I updated the oldest of my battery packs last night without much difficulty. The only troublesome part was glue the cells together cleanly to hold their shape in the battery housing. I'll report back on how it all works after I've given it a try.

 

Here are the parts I bought for this project:

 

Name Code Qty Each Options

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Smart Universal Battery CHUN122 1 27.95

Pack Charger: 7.2V - 12V,

 

1 SubC 3800 mAh high Tenergy-Sub-C-3800x001-TABS 12 3.39

capacity NiMH Rechargeable battery with tabs

 

Subtotal 68.63

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Neither of my packs had any kind of diode.

 

Paul C

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The diode is enclosed in heat shrink and is on the back of the plate as seen in the attached picture.

post-2195-1238590681.gif

Bill Libecap

 

 

 

Neither of my packs had any kind of diode.

Paul C

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The diode is enclosed in heat shrink and is on the back of the plate as seen in the attached picture.

post-2195-1238590681.gif

Bill Libecap

 

 

here is wher the battery connects

post-2195-1238590998.gif

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I don't recall seeing that, but I'm not sure. I have another pack that I have yet to upgrade, so I'll open that one and take a look. I certainly did not need to make any additions to the pack in my upgrades.

 

Dave

 

 

Hey Dave

I have a question for you. Does your battery pack have a diode between the recharger plug and the battery pack? You can tell with a vom. the plug will not show any voltage when you measure it. the charger I purchased CHUN-0409ARC would not start charging the pack with the diode in place. I had to add a 1meg resistor across the diode.

 

Bill Libecap

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If you have a Volt Ohm Meter, put it on a low resistance scale and check the outside of the power connector to the pin as I indicated in the drawing. Then reverse the leads. If one way is open and the other is resistance it's a diode.

 

 

Your charger works just fine then?

 

Bill

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Ok - that has been added so that if you plug in a charger with the polarity swapped it won't break the pack.

 

Though as you have proved Bill the newer type sensing chargers will object - your 1M resistor in parallel is a fine idea, myself I would drop the value to maybe 20K or so.

 

Paul C

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I had tested with my power supply and it needed 10m to work so I opted for a 1m as that gave me some wiggle room. I didn't see the need to drop to a lower value.

Bill

 

 

 

Ok - that has been added so that if you plug in a charger with the polarity swapped it won't break the pack.

 

Though as you have proved Bill the newer type sensing chargers will object - your 1M resistor in parallel is a fine idea, myself I would drop the value to maybe 20K or so.

 

Paul C

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Am sure that the 1M works just fine for your charger Bill, even with 20k with a 'dumb' charger you will only reverse charge the pack some 350uA which would not be an issue.

 

Myself I would take the diode out (we are not going to charge it up the wrong way are we ?).

 

When I purchased my charger I got the model that charges up to six cells as the 8 cell model had a much longer charge cycle.

 

The pack here is six cells, chuck in a diode drop and it may or may not have worked for me.

 

With the current generation of intelligent chargers which are pretty much required with these new batteries the diode is redundant as the charger is bright enough not to attempt to charge a 'reversed' cell pack.

 

Paul C

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Time to fix mine after a stupid flood... Wish me luck...

Edited by Grayscale

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Here is a picture of the circuitboard inside the ds125 BP. Might come in handy if you have a broken connection and can't fix it without removing the other connections. Both text and lines to explain where everything will go. Hope it is useful for someone...

 

post-22350-1247590854.jpg

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