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BrianM

Canon G9 & G7 housing - DIY 67mm lens adapter

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I haven't tried the wide angle lens because on the G9 housing (the same for you I think) the lens port is long to accommodate the 6 x optical zoom. With the camera lens at it's widest 35mm equivalent, an Inon wide angle lens would vignette quite a bit, so you would need to zoom in to get rid of the vignetting and once you do that you reduce the wide angle. By how much I don't know, but I think you could find it renders it little better than 35mm. This why Ikelite and Patima have short port options on their G9 housings, so that wide angle wet lenses can be used effectively.

 

Of course you could buy another Canon housing and chop the port down like Auder did here http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15634

Edited by BrianM

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Thanks for the link, but not gonna hack up my housing right now.

 

May try this in the future once prices start dropping when A720is and WP-DC16 are discontinued.

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Hi,

 

I am quite interested by modifying my case but I would lke to know if it is possible make an adapter for this case but for these inon lenses : UFL-165AD & UCL-165AD, I have these lenses from my old Ikelite Case for my Fuji F810, I would like to use them again.

 

thanks

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Hi,

 

I am quite interested by modifying my case but I would lke to know if it is possible make an adapter for this case but for these inon lenses : UFL-165AD & UCL-165AD, I have these lenses from my old Ikelite Case for my Fuji F810, I would like to use them again.

 

thanks

 

The UFL-165AD & UCL-165AD lenses are a bayonet fit so you wouldn't be able to use them with a filter thread solution like mine. Though I do know someone in a similar situation to you and he used a cable tie to fix two strips of Velcro to the lens and the glued the other halves of the Velcro to his housing port.

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The UFL-165AD & UCL-165AD lenses are a bayonet fit so you wouldn't be able to use them with a filter thread solution like mine. Though I do know someone in a similar situation to you and he used a cable tie to fix two strips of Velcro to the lens and the glued the other halves of the Velcro to his housing port.

 

Maybe I can try to mke something using the adapter from Ikelite for the F810 Housing that I have. let to see

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Just wanted to update my post above, received adapters today. When I get around to doing this, I'll be using 52 to 67mm adapter with my DC16 housing for A720IS. 58 to 67mm might work, but 62 to 67mm is definitely to large.

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As promised, I'm returning with some of my results from this GREAT modification. I've been really satisfied so far with the results, though I've taken a few pictures with the lenses that, in retrospect, I probably should have shot without... I guess I've been over-eager.

 

I do have a followup question about using the manual focus with the double stacked lenses. Should I even bother paying attention to the focal distance displayed next to the focus bar graph, or should I simply use my eye to gauge when I'm in focus? Or to rephrase it, what effect do the lenses have on the distance displayed on this bar graph?

 

Tiger Flat Worm

Fried Egg Slug

Whitemargin Slug

Trembling Slug

Imperial Slug

Titan Scorpionfish

Spanish Dancer Sea Slug Eggs

Last Pic

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Those photos look pretty good to me, so I'm pleased you like the housing mod.

 

For focusing I prefer to press the shutter half way and get the focus lock light, then carefully move back and forth very slightly to get the depth of field where I want it, judging this by eye.

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Thanks Brian, I'll give the focus lock a try this weekend to see what I can do.

 

I always try practicing stuff like this in the housing at my desk with some suitable subjects, that way it's easier when I come to do it underwater when I need to get it right.

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Hi,

 

As I mentioned I use a new adaptor for my WP-DC11 to mount a Inon 67mm macro lens.

My G7 has also a hacked firmware (CDHK) to shoot RAW-files, it works perfect! So I allmost got a G9 :lol:

 

Here are some pictures:

 

Adaptor for Inon wetlens

WP-DC11 with macrolens

WP-DC11 with macrolens

WP-DC11 with macrolens

 

cheers

scubariga

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Yes, that adapter looks as if it will work pretty well. So those who don't want to do my DIY method can now buy something similar to you.

How does it work underwater, do you get any vignetting from the adapter with wide angle shots or is it OK?

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Yes, that adapter looks as if it will work pretty well. So those who don't want to do my DIY method can now buy something similar to you.

How does it work underwater, do you get any vignetting from the adapter with wide angle shots or is it OK?

 

It works fine underwater, just when I shoot macro shots closer then 5 cm, it has shadows from the extention.

No vignetting from the adapter, because you can remove the adaptor with the macrolens underwater without problems.

 

cheers

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It works fine underwater, just when I shoot macro shots closer then 5 cm, it has shadows from the extention.

No vignetting from the adapter, because you can remove the adaptor with the macrolens underwater without problems.

 

cheers

 

If you mean the lens creates a shadow in the flash, then just move the diffuser to the end of the lens. I use a piece of elastic to hold it in place and get no shadow even with 2 lenses stacked.

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I've got a few questions about that adapter (not yours Brian, very nice work btw). How does that adapter secure to the port? and how much $$?

 

Asking because I'm in the process of producing my own adapters for various diopters and ports. Here's an adapter that I made for the Ike 67mm port, which can take the UCLs (amongst other lenses).

 

post-9396-1221369283.jpg

post-9396-1221369289.jpg

 

Keri

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Keri, that's also good work. The more people that can make professional adapters like you the better. Where did you get you diffuser material from?

 

Regards to you and Les.

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I found a piece of clear polycarbonate in my garage, cut it to size with a band saw, and manually sanded the surface with rough sand paper until opaque....VERY professional :uwphotog:. As soon as it's put in water it goes almost completely clear though, so diffuser is DEFINITELY just a prototype right now. I'm not actually sure where I'm going to find bulk material that's suitable for this diffuser...that's on the chopping block for today.

 

Keri

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I found a piece of clear polycarbonate in my garage, cut it to size with a band saw, and manually sanded the surface with rough sand paper until opaque....VERY professional :uwphotog:. As soon as it's put in water it goes almost completely clear though, so diffuser is DEFINITELY just a prototype right now. I'm not actually sure where I'm going to find bulk material that's suitable for this diffuser...that's on the chopping block for today.

 

Keri

 

 

Not sure but this material might work..

 

US PLastics

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Thanks, Joe. I've found a few local suppliers that should do the trick. Ultimately, I think I'm going to have material supplied and cut by a waterjet company nearby, but for the time being I picked up a sheet of white acrylic (similar to what you linked to) to make more prototypes from. I'm wondering how much light this stuff will steal from P&S internal flashes.

 

Haven't decided yet if polyethylene, polycarbonate or acrylic is the best way to go though...

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As I mentioned I use a new adaptor for my WP-DC11 to mount a Inon 67mm macro lens.

My G7 has also a hacked firmware (CDHK) to shoot RAW-files, it works perfect! So I allmost got a G9 :uwphotog:

 

 

cheers

scubariga

 

Scubariga,

Where did you get your adapter?

 

I am still trying to decide whether to follow Brian's exellent lead or buy something.

 

thanks,

Dave

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Brain and others,

 

I keep wondering if there is some way to cut the G9 housing halfway out the lens end, shorten the piece, and re-attach it. This would provide the lens end for Brian's adaptation and allow wide angle lens to be used successfully.

I would be rather like the short lens cover for the Ike, more or less. The black internal lens hood would also be cut to match the new length.

If the acrylic was cut and sanded well, would acrylic glue (solvent) work sufficiently to hold underwater? In online videos, that bond looks strong but is it water tight?

 

Anyone else try anything along those lines or have ideas?

 

Does anyone know how much should be cut or how long the new total length should be to allow wide angle wet lenses to be used?

 

 

Dave

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Brain and others,

 

I keep wondering if there is some way to cut the G9 housing halfway out the lens end, shorten the piece, and re-attach it. This would provide the lens end for Brian's adaptation and allow wide angle lens to be used successfully.

I would be rather like the short lens cover for the Ike, more or less. The black internal lens hood would also be cut to match the new length.

If the acrylic was cut and sanded well, would acrylic glue (solvent) work sufficiently to hold underwater? In online videos, that bond looks strong but is it water tight?

 

Anyone else try anything along those lines or have ideas?

 

Does anyone know how much should be cut or how long the new total length should be to allow wide angle wet lenses to be used?

 

 

Dave

 

Dave, that sounds a bit risky. If you are interested in chopping the port down have a look at this thread http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15634

The way you suggest, the two surfaces would have to be perfectly flat and acrylic glue may not be suitable for a long term joint coping with changing pressure, temperature and water.

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As I mentioned I use a new adaptor for my WP-DC11 to mount a Inon 67mm macro lens.

My G7 has also a hacked firmware (CDHK) to shoot RAW-files, it works perfect! So I allmost got a G9 :uwphotog:

 

 

cheers

scubariga

 

Scubariga,

Where did you get your adapter?

 

I am still trying to decide whether to follow Brian's exellent lead or buy something.

 

thanks,

Dave

 

Hi Dave,

 

You can find the adapter at specialized shop in the Netherlands:

 

http://www.onderwaterhuis.nl/winkel/nieuwe...hroefdraad.html

 

cheers

scubariga

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Brian,

 

Thanks for the comments. I have looked at that thread as well and do not like the internal reflection problems presented. The mating surface for bonding is the same area either way. The cut surface of the housing side is all the bonding surface available regardless of the other side. At least that is how it looks to me.

 

I have the luxury of access to a machine shop where mechanics seem to love the challenge of something new and different. The alignment of the 2 sides and cutting them precisely should be no problem for them. There will be no cost to me for this fine service so that is nice.

For added mechanical strength, I expect to add bracing to the outside of the joint. By cutting the removed portion of the barrel to remove the curved section from the flat section, I can have straight pieces to glue to the outside of the joint. I can do this on bottom and top and perhaps the sides as well. This should provide considerable mechanical strength since the bracing will be bonded to the both sides of the joint and the bond area will be the larger flat portion of the barrel to the brace. Does that description make sense? I tried without success to paste in a drawing of it here.

 

The issue I am concerned with is the leak tightness and resistance to the pressure/temp changes you mention. Its the same for both construction jobs (the other thread and this one). The area of the cut is all the bonding area available.

 

What I would like is someone with an old Canon housing they no longer want to 'donate' it to the cause of testing this or sell it at low cost. If I had one to try, I could try it all, take it diving or send it diving with others. I would add weight to the housing to make it neutral but it would be empty of camera. Any takers?

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Brian,

 

Thanks for the comments. I have looked at that thread as well and do not like the internal reflection problems presented. The mating surface for bonding is the same area either way. The cut surface of the housing side is all the bonding surface available regardless of the other side. At least that is how it looks to me.

 

I have the luxury of access to a machine shop where mechanics seem to love the challenge of something new and different. The alignment of the 2 sides and cutting them precisely should be no problem for them. There will be no cost to me for this fine service so that is nice.

For added mechanical strength, I expect to add bracing to the outside of the joint. By cutting the removed portion of the barrel to remove the curved section from the flat section, I can have straight pieces to glue to the outside of the joint. I can do this on bottom and top and perhaps the sides as well. This should provide considerable mechanical strength since the bracing will be bonded to the both sides of the joint and the bond area will be the larger flat portion of the barrel to the brace. Does that description make sense? I tried without success to paste in a drawing of it here.

 

The issue I am concerned with is the leak tightness and resistance to the pressure/temp changes you mention. Its the same for both construction jobs (the other thread and this one). The area of the cut is all the bonding area available.

 

What I would like is someone with an old Canon housing they no longer want to 'donate' it to the cause of testing this or sell it at low cost. If I had one to try, I could try it all, take it diving or send it diving with others. I would add weight to the housing to make it neutral but it would be empty of camera. Any takers?

 

Dave, I have two WP-DC16 housings, but they are both new. I'm planning to modify one of them in order to attach my Sea&Sea 16mm Wide Angle Len. Do you want to share your drawing?

 

I'm thinking to do what Auder and dagobert did in the post: Auder Modification

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