cannon 40d and ike housing?

[scuba-s 0]

i am looking at purchasing a cannon 40d with an ike housing,and would like opinion from divers with the camera and housing, would like to know what they think of the performance of the camera and housing, any info would be appreciated

[Timmoranuk 10]

An Ike and 40D or 450D are cameras which I've been considering too. It would be really useful to read some comparative opinions about current Canon models. I did learn that when using live view for framing, shutter lag is greater on 40D than the 450D.

[cpadiver 0]

I have the Ike housing and a Canon 40D. Same setup for a 30D as well. Twin DS-125's on each.

 

I think the camera and housing are great. You can access all functions.

 

The setup is slightly negative.

 

Not sure what else to tell you. Any question and I will do my best to answer.

[Andy Morrison 1]

I just got mine and will be testing it tomorrow. Both are nice and an upgrade from my 20D setup. However, it appears you can't toggle through the menu tabs because there is no lever for the multi-control button. Maybe there is another way to tab through the menus. I haven't had time to check for this. But if there isn't it's kind of a shame you can't tab through them.

 

So for setting custom white balances during a dive you need to remember to have the tab containing the custom white balance pre-selected so you can access it. Sorry, it's kind of hard to describe without seeing it.

 

I do like the camera for what little I've played with it.

Edited July 25, 2008 by Andy Morrison

[scuba-s 0]

can anyone else shed some light on not having acess to the multi controller and is there another way to acess the menus any

[Steve Williams 0]

Looks like on the Ikelite the best way to access the menu is thru the control dial on the back. The controls are shown here in the manual. I have 4 button access to the multicontroller on my Sea & Sea housing and I very rarely use it. The dial is much easier for me in practise.

 

Not sure what you mean by shutter lag Tim, there is absolutely no measurable shutter lag on my 40D. It's an amazing tool. There is a delay if you use the live view function but I haven't run across any use for it underwater. I can't see what's really in focus without looking through the viewfinder. Have fun!

Steve

[Gudge 58]

I have a single knob to access the multi-controller on my Subal housing, you turn the knob to point the direction you want to move the multi-controller and push it in. However, like Steve I rarely use it. It's easier to use the front dial to select the menu I want and the rear dial to select individual items from each menu.

[Andy Morrison 1]

That's a great point. No need for access to that button by using the front wheel and rear main control wheel. Thanks for pointing it out.

[Beyondthesurface 0]

I've just bought myself a 40D and will be getting an Ikelite system soon- just waiting for the new DS-160's to come out. I'm a bit stuck on what to do with strobe arms. I already have two 8" ULCS arms with my current setup, so at this stage am thinking about getting two more and adding stix floats. Anyone comment about adding buoyancy to the Ikelite system as far as how much would be needed?

[Gudge 58]

The StiX arm floats for ULCS arms are really quick and easy to install/remove, it only takes a few seconds to do it. I just got a four pack of medium and a four pack of jumbo floats and played with different combinations in a tub of water until I got the buoyancy I wanted.

[scuba-s 0]

i am looking at getting the 40d and standard lense first getting use to it above water for a while then will buy the housing and maybe a macro lense first then a wide angle next a friend has a tamron 90mm and gets some good pics ,do you think i should start with a 60mm for macro before going for something like the 90 and what would be a good wide angle lense at a reasonable price as i don"t want to break the bank,also i have a ike ds125 on my current rig will the housing be positive or negative with the 1 strobe?any advice would be apreciated

PS:- with the wide angle lense i would rather stay with a 6 inch dome rather then a 8 inch which may restrict my choice of wide angle lense

steve

[Gudge 58]

I've used the Tamron 90 macro with old 20D and even older film EOS 50. It is a very nice lens but a tad slow to focus, allright for things that don't move too fast but not so good for anything dashing about. I'd recommend the 60 macro as a starting lens. A very good lens, fast focussing and much more versatile than the 90macro. For a wide angle lens that will work well behind a 6" dome I'd recommend the Tokina 10-17 Fisheye. Being a fisheye lens it will not have soft corner problems behind a dome port that rectilinear wide angle lenses such as the Canon 10-22, Sigman 10-20, Tokina 12-24 have. I have the 10-17 and love it. I've used it behind a 6" dome and was very happy with the results.

[scuba-s 0]

I've used the Tamron 90 macro with old 20D and even older film EOS 50. It is a very nice lens but a tad slow to focus, allright for things that don't move too fast but not so good for anything dashing about. I'd recommend the 60 macro as a starting lens. A very good lens, fast focussing and much more versatile than the 90macro. For a wide angle lens that will work well behind a 6" dome I'd recommend the Tokina 10-17 Fisheye. Being a fisheye lens it will not have soft corner problems behind a dome port that rectilinear wide angle lenses such as the Canon 10-22, Sigman 10-20, Tokina 12-24 have. I have the 10-17 and love it. I've used it behind a 6" dome and was very happy with the results.

thanks gudge it"s great to get on the forums and be able to ask informed and knowledgeable people advice about gear set up and so on, as it is a big commitment in time and money and i would like to get it right if i can

thanks everyone for your great advice i appreciate your help

steve:-)

[improv 0]

thanks gudge it"s great to get on the forums and be able to ask informed and knowledgeable people advice about gear set up and so on, as it is a big commitment in time and money and i would like to get it right if i can

thanks everyone for your great advice i appreciate your help

steve:-)

 

Hi all. I'm a noob to the forum and am wondering about which lens and port you would reccommend for my 40d and ikelite housing. I actually don't have the housing yet, but had a few questions. I would like to do u/w portraiture at a swim school and will be relatively close to the subjects (10' or so) this would mean that my 50mm f1.4 lens is probably too long. I've seen a lot of great shots with 10, 12, 14, 15 mm lenses, so I think I'm leaning to this route. <dumb question> will a standard wide angle lens be better suited to what I want to do rather than a fisheye of the same focal length? I suppose that a fisheye will really distort my subject's features even when used on the 1.6x multiplication factor of the 40D sensor right?

 

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

 

Regards,

MP

[bversteegh 0]

Hi all. I'm a noob to the forum and am wondering about which lens and port you would reccommend for my 40d and ikelite housing. I actually don't have the housing yet, but had a few questions. I would like to do u/w portraiture at a swim school and will be relatively close to the subjects (10' or so) this would mean that my 50mm f1.4 lens is probably too long. I've seen a lot of great shots with 10, 12, 14, 15 mm lenses, so I think I'm leaning to this route. <dumb question> will a standard wide angle lens be better suited to what I want to do rather than a fisheye of the same focal length? I suppose that a fisheye will really distort my subject's features even when used on the 1.6x multiplication factor of the 40D sensor right?

 

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

 

Regards,

MP

 

I think you will really like the 10-17 for pool shots. Really not that much distortion on the 40D, especially at the long end. And the distortion is not that evident if you don't have any strong horizontal or vertical elements. Here are some examples using a 15mm Sigma fisheye on a Canon 20D (same sensor size as a 40d)

 

 

 

[james 0]

I would definitely NOT recommend the 10-17 for underwater portraiture. The barrel distortion, even at 17mm is not flattering to people's features. You definitely can see it.

 

Here's a sample photo taken by Tom Collier at my most recent workshop:

 

 

I would recommend the 10-22 for full body shots, and the 17-40L (on the crop) for headshots.

 

Cheers

James

[scuba-s 0]

Well i finally purchased the cannon 40d ,I will be getting use to it over the next few months ,before i get it underwater I will buy a 60 macro and then the housing ,sync cord for my ds125 and ports for the macro then a tonkina 10-17 and a 8 inch dome port and extension, by then i won"t be able to afford to dive , just kidding,i will only have 1 strobe the ds125 for at least 6 months (unless i can get a hold of a cheap one) i realize that 2 strobes would be ideal ,but do you think that one strobe will have enough coverage for the tonkina10-17 for the time being?

Edited August 21, 2008 by scuba-s

[improv 0]

I would definitely NOT recommend the 10-17 for underwater portraiture. The barrel distortion, even at 17mm is not flattering to people's features. You definitely can see it.

 

Here's a sample photo taken by Tom Collier at my most recent workshop:

 

 

I would recommend the 10-22 for full body shots, and the 17-40L (on the crop) for headshots.

 

Cheers

James

 

Thanks for the info James. I don't really want to do close up head and shoulders portraits such as you have here, but more full-length of babies jumping in the pool and being submerged. I would do the occasional mom and baby image, but that is only if the mom is willing....and most moms do not want to be photographed with their newborns. It would probably only be those who don't have a lot of weight-gain during their pregnancy or those rare few who are comfortable with their bodies after childbirth. Would not the 10-17 be comparable to the 10-22?

[james 0]

The 10-17 is a fisheye lens, meaning that straight lines will not appear straight - especially in the corners. The 10-22 is a "rectilinear" lens meaning it is designed with minimum distortion in mind.

 

Here's an example of a full body shot with a fisheye lens:

 

 

Distortion is very prominent - her head isn't really bending backwards, but it looks like it is in the photo.

 

Cheers

James